They had some BB's for sale yesterday and the thread is this quiet? Interesting....
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Someone in another forum saw them up for sale at 08.12pmGMT they were gone at 08.16pm GMT not sure what time they initially went up
In Soviet Russia, Dinosaur kill asteroid!
(Ya'll know Saturday is Billet Box Stalking Day unless told otherwise, and around 2-3PM EST is the Magic Billet Box Liberation Time)
(Ya'll know Saturday is Billet Box Stalking Day unless told otherwise, and around 2-3PM EST is the Magic Billet Box Liberation Time)
FYI to all Diver v2 users: Akdare and greigster may have figured out how to address the little sudden-swift-leak-and-then-back-to-fine-and-dandy issue, we're running tests over the last couple of days (I'm just the guinea pig here). Come over to the Diver thread for more info, but short story is:
Using the pin from the v1 in the v2 gives improved airflow, which means less force to draw vapor, which means juice not getting sucked into the Diver to the point of gurgling, flooding and leaking.
Using the pin from the v1 in the v2 gives improved airflow, which means less force to draw vapor, which means juice not getting sucked into the Diver to the point of gurgling, flooding and leaking.
I live out in Long Island but we can definitely meet up sometime to go figure this damn thing out lol.
Right now I have it stuffed with excess wick and it isn't leaking. Giving me a lot of cotton taste (hasn't broken in yet), but it isn't leaking lol.
Heading to the Diver thread now!
I posted this in the Diver thread....Kataphraktos suggested I repost my findings here as well...
Konstantinos, I did the experiment you requested...
32g R, 32g NR, 9 wraps, 1/16 diameter, cotton ball wick, 2.5 ohms, 4.5v. Diver v2 with v2 pin, Scuba, Hippo v2 (air wide open), Provari mini.
The only variable changed for my previous set up was the resistance wire gauge went from 30 to 32 (of course the number of wraps changed to maintain the 2.5 ohms)
I am very happy to report that I am down to about the last 0.5 ml of juice with NO CHANGE AT ALL in the color, viscosity or flavor.
Also, the flavor and vapor are markedly improved from the 30g. I don't really understand how the gauge of the wire could have such a dramatic effect, other than it heats more quickly. But at this point, I will be using this set up in my Diver for the foreseeable future.
Kataphraktos is graciously sending me one of his v1 pins...I will test the exact set up with the v1 pin in the BB.
Regarding the BB tank...I had a small epiphany this evening in a most unlikely way...I was putting away leftovers from a big pot of soup I made into some plastic containers for the freezer. I remember many, many years ago a friend who was a wonderful cook told me to always put liquids (soup, for example) into round containers rather than square, because they were liquid tight, and would not leak if knocked over. Square containers were fine for solid food, as they are air tight, but not liquid tight.
Hmmm...the BB tank is square....the Scuba, et al, are round...
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Konstantinos, I did the experiment you requested...
32g R, 32g NR, 9 wraps, 1/16 diameter, cotton ball wick, 2.5 ohms, 4.5v. Diver v2 with v2 pin, Scuba, Hippo v2 (air wide open), Provari mini.
The only variable changed for my previous set up was the resistance wire gauge went from 30 to 32 (of course the number of wraps changed to maintain the 2.5 ohms)
I am very happy to report that I am down to about the last 0.5 ml of juice with NO CHANGE AT ALL in the color, viscosity or flavor.
Also, the flavor and vapor are markedly improved from the 30g. I don't really understand how the gauge of the wire could have such a dramatic effect, other than it heats more quickly. But at this point, I will be using this set up in my Diver for the foreseeable future.
Kataphraktos is graciously sending me one of his v1 pins...I will test the exact set up with the v1 pin in the BB.
Regarding the BB tank...I had a small epiphany this evening in a most unlikely way...I was putting away leftovers from a big pot of soup I made into some plastic containers for the freezer. I remember many, many years ago a friend who was a wonderful cook told me to always put liquids (soup, for example) into round containers rather than square, because they were liquid tight, and would not leak if knocked over. Square containers were fine for solid food, as they are air tight, but not liquid tight.
Hmmm...the BB tank is square....the Scuba, et al, are round...
Sent from my iPad
Good Thoughts Akdare! But I have to say Awww, the scuba tank! I will have one, one day!
Looks like both I and Dayloon have seen good results using the v1 Diver's pin in the v2. It loosens the draw, and after multiple tanks in the BB, all we had was a small juice residue on the top of the tank - no gurgling, no leaking around the 510 connector - just the same results you would get in the collector tank of any tube mod with pretty much any atty.
Akdare should be getting a v1 pin in a few days to provide additional testing feedback. Anybody with an old v1 Diver and a v2 Diver in the BB, please try using the v1 pin in the v2 Diver (they are interchangeable), and post your results in the Diver thread, it would be greatly appreciated, we don't want to determine this as the proper solution until we have enough datapoints.
Akdare should be getting a v1 pin in a few days to provide additional testing feedback. Anybody with an old v1 Diver and a v2 Diver in the BB, please try using the v1 pin in the v2 Diver (they are interchangeable), and post your results in the Diver thread, it would be greatly appreciated, we don't want to determine this as the proper solution until we have enough datapoints.
I'll give it a go as well. Although it pains me because my v1 is now working perfectly. 
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I'll give it a go as well. Although it pains me because my v1 is now working perfectly.
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So let me get this straight...
Oh, never mind. I forget; vapers.
Thanks to Akdare for showing me that drip tip vendor, picked up this:
Great thing is, the core from the 510 up to the mouth is SS, so no juice should contact brass.
Great thing is, the core from the 510 up to the mouth is SS, so no juice should contact brass.
THAT exchange was inevitable.
I've been waiting for days to do the Highlander thing in this thread.
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