I built a 3 ohm in the Bridge and it scorched and I lost interest. I tried both 32 and 34 gauge, don't remember which I settled on. I like the 2.1 Aspire's just fine but prefer to build so I ordered the Diver V2 even though I am troubled by NR wire. I prefer some juices at around 3 ohms on a VW/VV device. But, it is just that, a preference. I run a Talos on an EVIC at a higher resistance for vanilla custard and it vapes swell.
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I built a 3 ohm in the Bridge and it scorched and I lost interest. I tried both 32 and 34 gauge, don't remember which I settled on. I like the 2.1 Aspire's just fine but prefer to build so I ordered the Diver V2 even though I am troubled by NR wire. I prefer some juices at around 3 ohms on a VW/VV device. But, it is just that, a preference. I run a Talos on an EVIC at a higher resistance for vanilla custard and it vapes swell.
Cotton, Silica or Wool Wicking on the one that burned up? Might have to buy some 32 or 34 and give it a try! Thanks!
It was organic cotton...if I had used a 1mm silica maybe I would have had better luck.
I built a 5/64" 2.7ohm 30ga coil for the Aspire head for the Billet Bridge. Organic cotton wick. The flavor is great, no dry hits, but I cannot seem to get enough air to it. Maybe I'm just used to KFL's and Spheroids, but it is very tight.
Should I try a smaller diameter coil, and 32g?
Should I try a smaller diameter coil, and 32g?
It was Scubabatdan that suggested the 32 ga to me, but still I couldn't wick at higher voltage. I wouldn't know what else to do besides watch the diameter. They were wrapping on 1 mm blunt syringe in the Youtube...Yes, it is very tight.
It was Scubabatdan that suggested the 32 ga to me, but still I couldn't wick at higher voltage. I wouldn't know what else to do besides watch the diameter. They were wrapping on 1 mm blunt syringe in the Youtube...Yes, it is very tight.
The tightness was bugging me as well so...... I'm going to try to use the bottom pin from some nautilus coils. Nautilus coil's bottom pin has much bigger airflow holes. Also the holes are on the side of the pin Instead of the bottom which I think should help in the BB. The problem is the pin itself is longer and doesn't match up with the holes for the original pin (where I drilled my 2.25mm hole). So need to do some measuring this weekend and drill some new holes so my coil doesn't short out on the pin. I'll let you know how it goes!
Maybe the increased airflow will allow me to use cotton wicking at 3 ohms and higher volts!
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So, after watching a couple Todd videos, I am kind of excited about the Diver V2. Although I'm awkward still, about the NR wire I have gained an understanding that it is possible to build with resistance wire only. Diver V2 arrives on Tuesday from Canada. And Shaker8, there ain nothin wrong with Country grammar.
Diver V2 arrives on Tuesday from Canada. And Shaker8, there ain nothin wrong with Country grammar.
It was Scubabatdan that suggested the 32 ga to me, but still I couldn't wick at higher voltage. I wouldn't know what else to do besides watch the diameter. They were wrapping on 1 mm blunt syringe in the Youtube...Yes, it is very tight.
1mm is too small of a diameter and makes the coil width to wide. 5/64" is perfect IMHO, and with 32ga you can get higher ohms with less wraps so your coil width is smaller. I would try to convert the aspire head by drilling out the juice holes to 5/64" and aligning your coil with the juice holes then just thread your cotton though the juice holes and coil. make the electrical connections, snip the excess cotton and go!
Dan
Went to a Vape store on my day off to get a tank for one of my ProVari's and the guy working there seen my BB and said he had one.
So started BB talking and I mentioned I wish I had a clear tank. He said he had extras and sold me one of his
Don't get me wrong but with the clear tank it's like a whole new OMG is this thing SWEET
I do hope they get some back in stock, cause I like to have a couple more.
PS: It might have been the fact I spent so much money there he sold me one of his tanks lol
So started BB talking and I mentioned I wish I had a clear tank. He said he had extras and sold me one of his
Don't get me wrong but with the clear tank it's like a whole new OMG is this thing SWEET
I do hope they get some back in stock, cause I like to have a couple more.
PS: It might have been the fact I spent so much money there he sold me one of his tanks lol
I've got 5/64"holes in the head, and that is the coil diameter as well (I agree, I use that coil diameter on almost everything). I'll try the 32ga tomorrow. Thanks!
That is pretty much what I use on every single coil I make, from Sabot, to Diver, to Condor, to Kayfun, Spheroids or all my RDAs. Well, I use 2mm but basically the same thing plus a couple of thousandths. Just seems like the perfect size coil to keep width in check and cotton contact. And staying consistent makes it easier to know how much cotton to pull. I experimented with larger and smaller coils, but always came back to that one.
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sleepy super burnt out update...
first off, anodizing was a success... Martha Stewart would refer to it as "a good thing"... but uggg,,, took a lot to get there... the first production run was just clear anodized, this is going to replace the polished BB... not that we will not make more raw polished ones like ever... but these anodized ones have some big advantages...
A: they are like a bazillion times harder and just don't scratch...
B: they don't show finger prints easy and are super easy to clean..
K: they don't really NEED oil to slide open nice.. we still oil them when we put um together, and will recommend they get oil to keep them working smoothly, but they don't SUPER MEGA need it like the raw aluminum ones do.
It makes our product better, stronger, and easier to maintain... so it's now standard... It is however, a big fat pain in the ... to do (well, to do really well...) and it takes more of just about everything, man power, prep time, and i guess we need to pay the anodizers too...ehhh, they'll send me a bill at some point i guess....
anywhoo.... first thing we have to do is mill them a little different, this is just slightly different code to prepare for the anodizing, and mill a hole in the electrical compartment to bolt them to the rack... then, just like with the polished ones we have to mate a slide cover to a body and sand them together...here is where things start to change... as they are going to be separated from each other on the racks
we need to number them so we can put them back together after they are anodized.. we'll probably figure a good way to do this later but for the present a dremel will do just fine...
now we have to take them apart again and clean um... every bit of cutting fluid needs to get the heck off befor we bead blast so the oil isn't impregnated into the aluminum and the bead will texture the surface uniformly... soooo first they take a dip in the ultra sonic vat...
and then a rinse in the sink...
and then blown off with compressed air... wow, i had to do all this crap, and now i'm reliving it in this update... kinda of depressing.....
the bead blaster doesn't really change the dimensions of the surface but it super will screw up the threads and make them near impossible to clean, and as we have to plug the threads anyway for the anodizing that might as well just happen now...
and apparently i thought it was exciting enough to take TWO pictures.... my phone has like 32gigs so what do i care... i'll take as many pictures as i damn well please...
now for the bead blast, it's like sandblasting but with really really tiny glass balls that peen the surface of the aluminum leaving a smooth happy satin finish...
in a perfect world the glass SHOULD bounce off the surface, but some of the glass will shatter and the glass dust will impregnate the surface... so they go back into the ultrasonic cleaner and the glass is literally exploded out... it's kinda neat to watch... but in this dip we have to hang the boxes so they don't touch any surface in the tank or the vibration will burn into the surface..
ok, so now the glass is out but the water in the ultrasonic vat is full of floaty glassy bits..so we needz to rinse them one last time.. oh the joy!
and then blow um off again...
FINALLY, now they get bolted to the rack with titanium cap screws... I'v been waiting to do this soooo long...
here's one of the racks that holds the slide covers all loaded up..
and some of the main body racks all full,
so then i load um up into the carmobile and drive down to salt lake city and hand um over to the anodizers... I got to pick um up the next day and they look better than we hoped.. sure, it's a little depressing that that they are still just aluminum colored, but that kinda was the point for the clear run... pics don't do um all that much justice.. but here is the slide cover rack back in our shop. Notice they ain't engraved? I'll fix that in a sec..
and the bodies after the plugs got all pulled out, you can see the area where they were racked, that was the electrical path for the anodizing.
So another suck thing about our new process is that the slide cover now goes from two times it has to be loaded into a machine, to three times it has to be loaded into a machine...super lame... but anyway, they get loaded back into Ruby on the Vacu-Suck 2000 pallet...
the rack for these used a titanium screw to hold the slide cover into place and provide the electrical path for the anodizing, and that was right over where the ball lock goes.. so she has to mill the ball lock and then do the engraving... here i had to stop and think, these are technically rev 3s, but still, this is a big change,,, so i had to change somthin'.... they are now engraved Rev 3.a
neat-o
K- so the actual finished stuffz i took pictures with my actual "not phone" camera, and them pics an't on me at the moment... but they are on the on the BB web site.... I actually have a little more to update 'bout, but it's like 3 somthin' in the morning and my bedtimes at 4 so i gotta wrap it up... For the present, despite the added cost and labor of all this we are NOT going to raise the price on the clear anodized BB (and i hope not anytime soon)... The colored ones however will cost more and here is why... First off they cost twice as much to anodize as the clear, it's a whole different process and that's out of my hands.. Second, there will be a higher fail rate than with clear anodizing, some percent of them will simply go in the trash as more can go wrong... But that will be next run, and i'll post how that go's....
oh damn, i'm going to hit that couch so hard....
first off, anodizing was a success... Martha Stewart would refer to it as "a good thing"... but uggg,,, took a lot to get there... the first production run was just clear anodized, this is going to replace the polished BB... not that we will not make more raw polished ones like ever... but these anodized ones have some big advantages...
A: they are like a bazillion times harder and just don't scratch...
B: they don't show finger prints easy and are super easy to clean..
K: they don't really NEED oil to slide open nice.. we still oil them when we put um together, and will recommend they get oil to keep them working smoothly, but they don't SUPER MEGA need it like the raw aluminum ones do.
It makes our product better, stronger, and easier to maintain... so it's now standard... It is however, a big fat pain in the ... to do (well, to do really well...) and it takes more of just about everything, man power, prep time, and i guess we need to pay the anodizers too...ehhh, they'll send me a bill at some point i guess....
anywhoo.... first thing we have to do is mill them a little different, this is just slightly different code to prepare for the anodizing, and mill a hole in the electrical compartment to bolt them to the rack... then, just like with the polished ones we have to mate a slide cover to a body and sand them together...here is where things start to change... as they are going to be separated from each other on the racks
we need to number them so we can put them back together after they are anodized.. we'll probably figure a good way to do this later but for the present a dremel will do just fine...
now we have to take them apart again and clean um... every bit of cutting fluid needs to get the heck off befor we bead blast so the oil isn't impregnated into the aluminum and the bead will texture the surface uniformly... soooo first they take a dip in the ultra sonic vat...
and then a rinse in the sink...
and then blown off with compressed air... wow, i had to do all this crap, and now i'm reliving it in this update... kinda of depressing.....
the bead blaster doesn't really change the dimensions of the surface but it super will screw up the threads and make them near impossible to clean, and as we have to plug the threads anyway for the anodizing that might as well just happen now...
and apparently i thought it was exciting enough to take TWO pictures.... my phone has like 32gigs so what do i care... i'll take as many pictures as i damn well please...
now for the bead blast, it's like sandblasting but with really really tiny glass balls that peen the surface of the aluminum leaving a smooth happy satin finish...
in a perfect world the glass SHOULD bounce off the surface, but some of the glass will shatter and the glass dust will impregnate the surface... so they go back into the ultrasonic cleaner and the glass is literally exploded out... it's kinda neat to watch... but in this dip we have to hang the boxes so they don't touch any surface in the tank or the vibration will burn into the surface..
ok, so now the glass is out but the water in the ultrasonic vat is full of floaty glassy bits..so we needz to rinse them one last time.. oh the joy!
and then blow um off again...
FINALLY, now they get bolted to the rack with titanium cap screws... I'v been waiting to do this soooo long...
here's one of the racks that holds the slide covers all loaded up..
and some of the main body racks all full,
so then i load um up into the carmobile and drive down to salt lake city and hand um over to the anodizers... I got to pick um up the next day and they look better than we hoped.. sure, it's a little depressing that that they are still just aluminum colored, but that kinda was the point for the clear run... pics don't do um all that much justice.. but here is the slide cover rack back in our shop. Notice they ain't engraved? I'll fix that in a sec..
and the bodies after the plugs got all pulled out, you can see the area where they were racked, that was the electrical path for the anodizing.
So another suck thing about our new process is that the slide cover now goes from two times it has to be loaded into a machine, to three times it has to be loaded into a machine...super lame... but anyway, they get loaded back into Ruby on the Vacu-Suck 2000 pallet...
the rack for these used a titanium screw to hold the slide cover into place and provide the electrical path for the anodizing, and that was right over where the ball lock goes.. so she has to mill the ball lock and then do the engraving... here i had to stop and think, these are technically rev 3s, but still, this is a big change,,, so i had to change somthin'.... they are now engraved Rev 3.a
neat-o
K- so the actual finished stuffz i took pictures with my actual "not phone" camera, and them pics an't on me at the moment... but they are on the on the BB web site.... I actually have a little more to update 'bout, but it's like 3 somthin' in the morning and my bedtimes at 4 so i gotta wrap it up... For the present, despite the added cost and labor of all this we are NOT going to raise the price on the clear anodized BB (and i hope not anytime soon)... The colored ones however will cost more and here is why... First off they cost twice as much to anodize as the clear, it's a whole different process and that's out of my hands.. Second, there will be a higher fail rate than with clear anodizing, some percent of them will simply go in the trash as more can go wrong... But that will be next run, and i'll post how that go's....
oh damn, i'm going to hit that couch so hard....
oh, and tanks will be up today (Saturday) at some point.... said i'd tell you... just Delrin ones, there was just no way i could sneek in the clears this week with all this new crap going on...
*Since Dan is speaking up, I would like to take this opportunity to deny expertise in any of this. And also explain that I have not drilled a hole in anything, ever. I was working from the video by AndrewWVids where the coil is wrapped on a 14 ga blunt tip needle when I scorched and moved on. R.
Great idea V4V, or you can just burp your Billet Box tank prior to take off, at altitude, and upon landing. Push in the fill ball with the end of my pen to burp.
I travel quite a bit and it works for me
GREAT to know!
Yup, any kind of carto tank will leak on a plane or when changing altitude drastically on land. It's an air pressure thing, nature of the beast and all that.
As V4V said, it's best to remove the tank during the changes. Once at altitude, you should be able to press on the ball valve to allow the pressure to equalize, and reinstall the tank in your BB. This is assuming you want to stealth vape on the plane (not that I'd recommend that
If you're hiking or driving through various altitudes, the same theory should apply - occasionally press the ball valve to allow the pressure to equalize.
Again, new knowledge. Very new. Thanks!
Pfffft...man that looks easy.
Pretty awesome DD dude. Looking forward to these cool new boxes.
Me too. Is my probation up yet? ;-)
Regarding Akdare's "holes in... head", my father always said mine were considerably larger than hers.
Happy Saturday, everyone. And HAPPY SHOPPING, shoppers!!!
Wow... what an update!!!
It's really great to see the process photos. Gives a new appreciation for the amount of work, both hand and machine, that goes into the production of ONE of these units. The end result is unlike anything on the market, and after seeing the work going into them, we can all appreciate why.
For the defectives, maybe if you just engrave a big X somewhere, you can still sell them for a discount if the form and function is still the same. But the X (or IRR or whatever mark) identifies the unit as originally sold as defective. This makes a difference since you dont' want someone buying a defective used unit down the road and thinking your original quality was not high based on the defective they purchased.
Your costs in the defective units is the same, so throwing those away simply raises prices for the perfect units...
Just a thought.
I am still in LOVE with my pink unit!!! Everyone who's seen it has been in awe too!!
It's really great to see the process photos. Gives a new appreciation for the amount of work, both hand and machine, that goes into the production of ONE of these units. The end result is unlike anything on the market, and after seeing the work going into them, we can all appreciate why.
For the defectives, maybe if you just engrave a big X somewhere, you can still sell them for a discount if the form and function is still the same. But the X (or IRR or whatever mark) identifies the unit as originally sold as defective. This makes a difference since you dont' want someone buying a defective used unit down the road and thinking your original quality was not high based on the defective they purchased.
Your costs in the defective units is the same, so throwing those away simply raises prices for the perfect units...
Just a thought
.I am still in LOVE with my pink unit!!! Everyone who's seen it has been in awe too
!!
You Sir Mr. DD man are a tease. All those naked ladies on tables being bathed and all that.
You have damaged me enough, you did mot think of us poor mortals when you posted all that porn
You Sir Mr. DD man are a tease. All those naked ladies on tables being bathed and all that.
You have damaged me enough, you did mot think of us poor mortals when you posted all that porn
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