The mechanical one

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DeKosta

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Nov 1, 2013
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Thanks for all the replies!

A question what is the real difference in the mech mods in the higher price range (100-200€)
and mech in the lower price range (40-50€) like Smoktech Magneto Version 2 and Nemesis Clone which both goes for around 40€. I dont know if you are allowed to post links to shops in this forum.

What justifies the high price?

Thanks!
 
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KrisAinTX

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Oct 8, 2013
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Poldiac, Nemesis, King, Chi You, Ba Gua.... could go on and on and on.

There are a lot of high-end mechanical mods out there. I own a Ba Gua clone and a Vanilla right now, with a Poldiac coming in the next week or so. It really depends on what you're looking for in terms of style and price point. Go browse the Pictures of Your Setup thread here on the New Members forum. There are a ton of beautiful mechs there.

Also, before using mechs w/RBAs, check out the sub forums for Rebuildables and read all the stickies there. It can be dangerous if done improperly. You need to read up on Ohms Law and learn the basics, know your batteries really well and get a great charger.
 

KrisAinTX

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Oct 8, 2013
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Thanks for all the replies!

A question what is the real difference in the mech mods in the higher price range (100-200€)
and mech in the lower price range (40-50€) like Smoktech Magneto Version 2 which goes
for around 40€. I dont know if you are allowed to post links to shops in this forum.

What justifies the high price?

Thanks!

The higher price comes from a few different factors. High production costs, superior materials cost, design and development costs, all play into the price. Also, the desirability of the product.

You can get a Smoktech Magneto for 40 euros, but it's not going to be made as well as a Nemesis or a Poldiac. It may hit similarly, but it won't last as long.
 

KrisAinTX

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Oct 8, 2013
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Last piece of advice - if you want to get into rebuildables you might try starting out with something inexpensive. There are cheap ($30 - $40 USD) Sigelei mods that all work pretty well. I have a Sigelei #13a that was my first mechanical. I bought that and an AGA-T2 RBA and gave it a whirl. Cost me about $60 to try it out and decide that I liked the results.

Before you start, though, be sure to read up on battery safety, get a multimeter and an ohm meter, and make sure you're getting authentic batteries that can handle the coils you're building. There's a lot of great info here on the forums about how to maximize your experience while still being safe.
 

SoCalMichelle

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Oct 12, 2013
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Thanks for all the replies!

A question what is the real difference in the mech mods in the higher price range (100-200€)
and mech in the lower price range (40-50€) like Smoktech Magneto Version 2 and Nemesis Clone which both goes for around 40€. I dont know if you are allowed to post links to shops in this forum.

What justifies the high price?

Thanks!

I think it depends on what you intend to use it for?

If your going to start doing RBA's are you going to be building them at sub ohm? That's the only reason I can think of that would make most people want a mechanical mod.
 

Jawden

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Oct 14, 2013
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without getting into details or getting too technical, i'd second what someone already said about getting a cheap but decent mod first to see if you like it. i personally own about 8 mechanicals with no vv/vw's in my collection. i like the looks and the simplicity of mechanicals. my first mechanical was a sigelei 8w and i still have it. from that i learned that i wanted a mod with a floating 510 pin so that all my tanks or rba's would fit on it. i had a sentinel m16 clone and loved that but let a friend borrow it and he ended up giving me a good price for it. haha. now im using a smoktech magneto with an rsst and am ok with it. im waiting on a shipment that should be in any day. but i know many might not agree with me when i suggest this but look at fasttech and get a good idea on what your looking for. from what i can see in discussions the material use as far as the pins and body are what puts one mod in front of another. i.e. copper, brass, silver plated pins seem to have less voltage drop. and stainless steel threading is superior to aluminum or brass threading. etc.

like i said, i like the simplicity of a mod. hit a button and it fires, everytime. (unless you have a short in your coils or something. hahaha.) but i have no need for the circuitry in a vv/vw. if i build my coils correctly i dont feel the need to adjust wattage or voltage. and with that said, repeating the advice already given...read up on batteries and decide which are best for you (mnke, imr, etc...) and buy an ohm meter, and definitely read up on sub ohm vaping and ohms law.

im not an expert, but not a total noob either. haha. so any questions, feel free to ask. if i cant answer them im sure theres someone on this forum who is able to or will atleast point you in the right direction.

i'll shut up now. :blush:

happy vaping!
jawden.
 

Vaslovik

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I got into mechs and RBA's early in the game, and never looked back. As others here have said, you really need to know what you are doing with them and RBA's, and there's a learning curve. Make sure you have the means to check the ohms resistance of your build before you put it on your mech. A hard short is not funny at all at that point.

I'm betting you are doing your homework, and have gotten onto the PBusardo videos by now. Good move, watch them and pay attention. His second video on the RSST build is a very good one to watch. There are lots of ways to wick and coil your RBA, and many here will urge you to use one or another. Just keep doing your homework and decide for yourself.

My first mech was a Sigelei 24, and I'm still using it. It's a top/side button and I am very comfortable with it. It's served me very well and you can get one for under $30 USD. If you like the bottom button better the Magneto is okay, though I didn't care for mine and traded it for my RSST. Someday I'll have a Poldiac and an Atmizoo Dingo, but for now my Sigelei 24 is doing good by me.
 
I got into mechs and RBA's early in the game, and never looked back. As others here have said, you really need to know what you are doing with them and RBA's, and there's a learning curve. Make sure you have the means to check the ohms resistance of your build before you put it on your mech. A hard short is not funny at all at that point.

I'm betting you are doing your homework, and have gotten onto the PBusardo videos by now. Good move, watch them and pay attention. His second video on the RSST build is a very good one to watch. There are lots of ways to wick and coil your RBA, and many here will urge you to use one or another. Just keep doing your homework and decide for yourself.

My first mech was a Sigelei 24, and I'm still using it. It's a top/side button and I am very comfortable with it. It's served me very well and you can get one for under $30 USD. If you like the bottom button better the Magneto is okay, though I didn't care for mine and traded it for my RSST. Someday I'll have a Poldiac and an Atmizoo Dingo, but for now my Sigelei 24 is doing good by me.

Have you ever had a problem with your rsst leaking? I've had mine for about a week, I love the vape and its very user friendly but it seems to leak and seems a little loose, any suggestions? Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread.
 

Jazzi Mike

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RBAs work superbly on regulated devices. You can check the resistance on there and there are safety devices built in, so if you get a short, you won't get an explosion.

In fact, the only reason I am using a mech currently is because it is a REO. My reasons are strictly because of the bottom feeding aspect, not so I can try to get 50 watts out of my batteries with a 0.000008 ohm coil.
 

Vaslovik

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Have you ever had a problem with your rsst leaking? I've had mine for about a week, I love the vape and its very user friendly but it seems to leak and seems a little loose, any suggestions? Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread.

Well I have noticed that the grommet in the top deck does not seal well around the center post, and this results in leak-down into the drip well of the mech. I wrapped the center post in tape and put it back on there, but this was not an ideal solution. They could have done better on that top seal.
 
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Vaslovik

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RBAs work superbly on regulated devices. You can check the resistance on there and there are safety devices built in, so if you get a short, you won't get an explosion.

Yes they do work on regulated mods, above 1 ohm. If you want to go sub-ohm, no so well, in fact, not at all. I found my sweet spot at .8 ohm, and I like it very much there. I cannot see myself ever buying a regulated mod. That said, a great many people are happy above 1 ohm on a regulated mod, and I'm happy for them.
 

Stingbk

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IMHO I'm going from two ego twists and I'm going to be getting a Nemesis clone for x-mas because you can use 3 different batteries with room for a kick. You can mode the contact pins to flush mount anything you put on it and its got adjustable airflow controls on the top cap it something gets its airflow from the bottom. I'm probably going to be getting a kick 2 later on which you can still use .5 ohm builds with it. I'm for sure getting a 2cent fuse.
 

Dirk0490

Full Member
Dec 26, 2013
10
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United States
Ive got a Sentinel M16 Mechanical Mod clone on the way in the mail and after reading some reviews (to late to cancel order) I hear there is a problem with the aluminum 510 threads stripping. Im now looking for a brass or stainless steel 510 airflow controller. Problem is no one seems to list the material there made from. Any suggestions for one you have used or seen? How well this idea works?
 
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