The Probe, latest but not last MOD.

Status
Not open for further replies.

framitz

Moved On
May 24, 2009
654
7
RSM, CA
I wanted a pass through type power adapter that provides more than 3.7 volts without being insane, so I made my own.

It's made from copper plumbing parts, phone plug socket, Radio shack - switch, diode, LED.

I have done other lighter mods, but I wanted this one to stay where I put it, so it has a little weight to it. I power it mostly from my Kensington battery pack, but right now it's on the PC USB and working fine.

It runs at 4.8 volts, I had intended to run it at 4.2, but the diode voltage drop was less than predicted.

The LED is yellow with 150ohm 1/8w resister in series to reduce the brightness, normal resister would be 100ohm, too bright.
 

raven9mm

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 15, 2009
537
0
IL
Looks awesome... where did you get that copper piece that has the rounded end? I don't remember ever seeing one like that at Lowes or Home Depot.


Water hammer is usually recognized by a banging or thumping in water lines. The noise occurs when the flow of moving water is instantaneously stopped by a closing valve. This sudden stop results in a pressure spike behind the valve which acts like a tiny explosion inside the pipe. This pressure spike will reverberate throughout the plumbing system, rattling and shaking pipes, until it is absorbed.
Normally, a sufficient pocket of air will absorb such a pressure spike, but if no pocket of air is present, expensive fixtures and appliances within the plumbing system will be damaged as they are left to absorb this pressure spike.

The above piece is called an air chamber. It gives the spike in pressure an amount of air to compress, thus eliminating the water hammer effect.
 

framitz

Moved On
May 24, 2009
654
7
RSM, CA
Loving your PT. I find those Radio Shack buttons to be total crap. It looks like you can change yours out fairly easily if it does give out.
Yes the RS buttons are crap, I'm using the 500MA model and it's ok so far. The switch is so simple that if, rather WHEN it fails I'll fabricate something from scratch to replace it. I just couldn't get a 1amp or better switch into the space.

The copper stuff is from Lowes, thanks to raven9mm for a better description of the air chamber piece. I like it because it eliminates an end cap and looks different than some of the other similar mods. The hole in the closed end was a royal pain to drill though, the metal must be over 1/2 inch thick at the closed end. I really need a shop with a drill press, working in my home office is not ideal.
 

kinabaloo

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Yes the RS buttons are crap, I'm using the 500MA model and it's ok so far. The switch is so simple that if, rather WHEN it fails I'll fabricate something from scratch to replace it. I just couldn't get a 1amp or better switch into the space.

The copper stuff is from Lowes, thanks to raven9mm for a better description of the air chamber piece. I like it because it eliminates an end cap and looks different than some of the other similar mods. The hole in the closed end was a royal pain to drill though, the metal must be over 1/2 inch thick at the closed end. I really need a shop with a drill press, working in my home office is not ideal.

This might be a good scenario for forming the atty connector/atty into a push switch, an idea that came up recently in another thread (again forgot the OP but it's a great idea).
 

framitz

Moved On
May 24, 2009
654
7
RSM, CA
This might be a good scenario for forming the atty connector/atty into a push switch, an idea that came up recently in another thread (again forgot the OP but it's a great idea).
Yeah the idea of having the switching done by pushing in on the atty is a good one and I might give it a shot.

Next up is a 'visible' e-cig. Intention is to lay out the components then package in clear cast so the guts are sealed but visible. Might help some new modders see what the insides are like. Mostly just for the fun and novelty of it. (I haven't started it yet, just got the materials together, so it might be a while 'till the mood hits me.)
 

Taco Sundae

Full Member
Jul 3, 2009
13
0
The copper tube does not appear to be a hammer arrestor though it could surely be used as such. It is actually just a type copper stub-out used in new construction. This is what you stick out of the wall before drywall is installed. Once the drywall is installed you cut off the end with tubing cutters and put an angle stop valve on to supply the sink/toilet/whatever.

This plumber is done being pedantic, carry on :D
 

framitz

Moved On
May 24, 2009
654
7
RSM, CA
The pipe is 1/2 inch I think, the standard residential size.

The 4.8 volts obtained by running a 1N4001 diode in series. I expected the diode to drop .7 V, but it only drops .2. I tried two and both dropped just .2V, so I went with it.

It vapes great at this voltage. It does get hot if I keep at it, but the copper pulls some of the heat away, so it cools quickly. One reason I used copper was in hopes of it working as a heat sink for the atty and it does help.
 

muldrick

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 30, 2009
1,716
664
Easton, MD
The 4.8 volts obtained by running a 1N4001 diode in series. I expected the diode to drop .7 V, but it only drops .2. I tried two and both dropped just .2V, so I went with it.
.
Please explain, you are using 2 CR2 batts?? How are you using the diode...how is it installed in the pipe? How difficult is it to replace the batts with this installed. I'm just trying to figure out if this is doable with a "push-on" style atty.
BTW: I think 4.8 volts is perfect.
 

framitz

Moved On
May 24, 2009
654
7
RSM, CA
Please explain, you are using 2 CR2 batts?? How are you using the diode...how is it installed in the pipe? How difficult is it to replace the batts with this installed. I'm just trying to figure out if this is doable with a "push-on" style atty.
BTW: I think 4.8 volts is perfect.
This is powered by USB only, no batteries.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread