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AlmightyGod

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Katy moment...

a6898c53-63bd-9ae0.jpg
 

Fernand

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Johnathan, can you tell us more about the Resurrector, how exactly you modified it, etc. Is it a horizontal coil carto like the Kanger, or a vertical coil?

The horizontal coils (like Kangers or the big Echo-e) are usually less sensitive to juice amount; the coil is not in contact with the filler, so it can't burn it. The vertical coils are sensitive to juice amount, can burn, but usually give awesome flavor. Boges are vertical, and in a VMOD you have to work the squirsh right for best results. I have some Kangers to try coming Thursday. So tell us all about the Resurrectors.

@Punta very cute - what is it, adhesive vinyl type contact "paper"?
 
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Fernand

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For people who are having trouble with a loose shell and/or leaks. Take a nail emery board, everybody has a few, and work the cone on it to shave like 1/32" off the bottom. How much is not too critical. You can always take a little more off, and if you shave a little too much it won't matter either. To get a flat even bottom, keep turning the cone to different positions as you work it back and forth on the emery board. Then polish it on something like a tough fabric so it's nice and smooth and shiny.

What happens is that the cone now screws all the way down. The shell no longer rattles. But also the cone now is a little shorter and won't push the top gasket down as far on the carto/atty, so the juice inlet won't get blocked.

Now unscrew the carto/atty, take the top gasket off, and wrap a wrap or two of plastic tape tight around the carto/atty, like vinyl electrical tape, and put the gasket back on. When you screw everything nice'n tight back together, the juice chamber is completely sealed. You can tell by how the squirsh feels, it goes directly up into the carto, no air escapes up the top. Tight as a drum, no leaks at all. The air inlet and the juice chamber are completely separate. On my cartos, as the filler swells, it even gets hard to push juice up, you could practically pop a bottle, that tells you there's zero leakage.

I'm sorry if it's been shown before, but where is there a good diagram of the whole assembly including the catch cup?
 
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johnathan777

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Johnathan, can you tell us more about the Resurrector, how exactly you modified it, etc. Is it a horizontal coil carto like the Kanger, or a vertical coil?

The horizontal coils (like Kangers or the big Echo-e) are usually less sensitive to juice amount; the coil is not in contact with the filler, so it can't burn it. The vertical coils are sensitive to juice amount, can burn, but usually give awesome flavor. Boges are vertical, and in a VMOD you have to work the squirsh right for best results. I have some Kangers to try coming Thursday. So tell us all about the Resurrectors.

@Punta very cute - what is it, adhesive vinyl type contact "paper"?

Fernand
I think it is a re branded smoke tek 1.7 ohm vertical coil cartomizer that I punched a couple holes in at the base of the cylinder.Just where the barrel is pressed onto the base "joint".Crystal Clear Vaping sells them. I know this is a long thread but I posted pictures a couple thousand post ago. I had no luck with silos and problems learning to fill the Hybrids. Over fill under fill. With the carto I have a lot more wiggle room for my uneducated fill technique !:blink:

For those that think this is a juice hog they should try a Silver Bullet with a tank @ 6V that is a true juice hog.But all of the juice is vaporized ! With no leaks the additional juice usage is vaporized and consumed !Gotta pay somebody one way ore the other ha ha.
 
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Fernand

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@johnathan I can't figure out how to find anything on this forum, let alone a specific post. It seems to only return whole threads. Any chance you could post those pictures again?

"It's not a juice hog - I am!" But I just blow it out into the room. One if these days I'm going to sit down in a leather chair and get glued to it by the deposited glycerin.

There's something to dripping, you get an awful lot of vapor out of two drops!
 
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Jslay00

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Jslay, please try to look first for glowing before you in any way "rearrange" the atomizers. First you want to know if that's the cause of them failing. Secondly, pushing the wires around doesn't necessarily improve things, you can just as easily make them worse.

How long do you hold the butting down in the Vmod before you have a satisfactory cloud? Is it the same as on your previous rigs?

You say both atomizers and cartomizers have failed within 2 days? Now that is odd, as they are different designs. Have you tested them after failure with an ohmmeter? Have you verified that the positive contact post is not pushed in? It doesnt take much. I had all manner of defects in my unlucky batch and one was a DOA with a post that did not make contact in a 510 socket, but there was continuity if you checked with a meter. The post can be pulled out a bit with tweezers to make them work for a short while. If you pull the surrounding silicone rubber out a little as well, the repair is more lasting.

Excellent suggestions, all. Thank you very much, Fernand, and everyone who has tried to help me out. I'm having a very, very busy week so I've "benched" my VMOD and my last 3 hybrid BF atomizers until the Halloween weekend. At that point, I'll give my VMOD its first bath and VERY CAREFULLY attempt some of these suggestions.

Yikes! I just got an email (from China, no less!) from "Skinny"! He's offering to help me out, too! As I've said in my email reply to him, since no one else seems to be experiencing the same problem I have, I must conclude that it's most likely NOT the VMOD, itself, that is killing these attys. Could be the attys, the juice, batteries, my spastic usage habits, we'll see... But not before Halloween.

Thanks, again!
 

puntadigital

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@Punta very cute - what is it, adhesive vinyl type contact "paper"?

It's wrap vinyl, liked the texture and I printed it and applied it right away, no lamination or anything. I wanted something like diamond plate or rusty metal but this one looked ok, and my wife will probably use the vmod more than me.
 

GobblerHunter

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Scroll to bottom of this page http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-video-reviews/195396-vmod-248.html

@johnathan I can't figure out how to find anything on this forum, let alone a specific post. It seems to only return whole threads. Any chance you could post those pictures again?

"It's not a juice hog - I am!" But I just blow it out into the room. One if these days I'm going to sit down in a leather chair and get glued to it by the deposited glycerin.

There's something to dripping, you get an awful lot of vapor out of two drops!
 

Fernand

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Perfecto. Thanks Gobbler! Now if I can just find a cross-section diagram of the whole top part with catch cup and all! Is that top metal part one casting, or is it machined, or what? It sure is a clever design, and ideally should be usable with more than one brand of carto/atty.

Regarding making holes w/ punch vs. drill, it's whatever ya's got, but a 1/16" titanium bit in a cheap Dremel drill press makes a clean hole without distorting the barrel. One hole is enough. It's tricky making holes on the very edge. If the hole is too high up, the sleeve gasket blocks it. Filing down the cone gives a little more slack in how low it must be. One can also cut a new gasket that's not as tall from a carto condom with a razor blade, but the original gasket is a better and thicker material. It's possible to slice a little off the gasket height. Or to cut a "crown" pattern out of the lower margin so as to provide better access to slightly higher juice-inlets, while retaining the overall height.

Personally, I'm trying to settle on the ideal carto that gives the best performance and longevity in a VMOD. Maybe then we can come up with a really simple inlet-making method for anybody to use. For me, loosening the carto to let liquid in through the air channel unacceptably defeats the tight design of the sealed liquid chamber. I'm also soaking 2 Silos in alcohol to see if they can be rid of their taste to give them another chance.

There's Para's jig for punching at
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-video-reviews/195396-vmod-230.html#post4077519
Apologies to people who've "been there", but it doesn't hurt for us new VMODders. I'll tell you a secret. My wife has been sneaking drags on my Boge'd VMOD, she's warming to revisiting the deevice; that says a lot.
 
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Rowdy

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Jslay, I seem to go through atty's faster than expected also, several were DOA or only lasted a couple hours. I also noticed that most of the atty's die when I change batteries. So I checked all my batt's and they checked out OK (minus the few that were only showing 3.2V or so and got tossed). What's weird is the first atty's I had lasted weeks, then the second batch lasted about a week. I figured it was because by that time the VMOD was my main PV. Now, it seems if they aren't DOA they die by the 2nd battery change.

I have one of those fancy desk mounted magnifier with the light on it :D so I took a good look at these hybrid atty's and they look to be pretty well made. They are also very consistent across the 4-5 I looked at. I take that into consideration with the fact that only two people are having any sort of issue with longevity, and I come to the conclusion it must be something I am doing. The question is WHAT IS IT? I even tried the hybrid on my Reomini and got the same results on the first battery change (dead) :( . As AG and Fernand suggested, I prime with 6-8 drops and let them soak for 2-3 minutes now, and I check the coils to ensure they are touching the wick. So far I haven't noticed a significant difference in the life span of the atty's.

I am going to try and keep the VMOD and atty cleaner to see if that has any effect on the longevity. I am wondering if the dark liquid I use might be building up somewhere and creating a problem. As usual any thoughts or suggestions are more than welcome.

Thanks

Rowdy :vapor:
 
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