Same here. I had two DOA's!! I've had them for a couple of weeks, but haven't tried them until tonight. BOTH dead. I'm not happy.
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Same here. I had two DOA's!! I've had them for a couple of weeks, but haven't tried them until tonight. BOTH dead. I'm not happy.
Pheisty...did you check them with a meter?
The center pin might need to be pulled out, if they aren't making contact.
Rowdy...dark juice can be a killer, as well as running them too dry.
I often read of people saying they get a burnt taste out of (any) atomizer.
Certain juices, especially dark or sweet, can taste bad very quickly.
When I first started vaping, I looked for a chocolate juice for awhile.
Quite often the first few vapes tasted great, and then it was burning time.
One of the chocolate vapes would kill a carto before I even vaped the first fill.
I have Hybrids from the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd run, and have yet to have a doa.
I've checked all of them, even the unused ones, and they are all good.
I'm not implying that you guys aren't having trouble, but I'm going to need more information to attempt to help.
The center pin might need to be pulled out, if they aren't making contact.
Rowdy...dark juice can be a killer, as well as running them too dry.
I often read of people saying they get a burnt taste out of (any) atomizer.
Certain juices, especially dark or sweet, can taste bad very quickly.
When I first started vaping, I looked for a chocolate juice for awhile.
Quite often the first few vapes tasted great, and then it was burning time.
One of the chocolate vapes would kill a carto before I even vaped the first fill.
I have Hybrids from the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd run, and have yet to have a doa.
I've checked all of them, even the unused ones, and they are all good.
I'm not implying that you guys aren't having trouble, but I'm going to need more information to attempt to help.
Obviously the center pin is easily pushed in, making the atty appear dead. One of mine was DOA that way. To fix them, don't just pull up the pin or it will sink back down. Delicately pull up the silicon rubber surround so the pin cannot go back down as easily. I found it easiest to do with a sharp pin.
I really feel for Brian. Manufacturing is tricky. QA is worse.
I tried a Silo after soaking, then rinsing, in 75% ethanol -- we can't get any true Everclear in Calif, heaven knows why. Wrapped it with thin tape (it can't be thick stuff or even one wrap is too much). Good seal. Primed the Silo from above, and fed it from below. I was thinking "'cmon, this is just a horizontal coil carto, it's got to be Ok after all that soaking", put in a fresh battery, and hit the switch. But something's not right. There's a brief moment after it's freshly juiced when it seems OK, good vapor, and then a strange taste appears, at first it's annoying, I was squirshing to try to keep it down, and then it became nauseating, literally. I've set it aside and I'm sitting here feeling queasy. Put the Boge back in, same setup, same juice, and it tastes and vapes wonderful.
Managed to push the coils down on one atty so nothing is glowing and tried it again. The vapor is so-so and it tastes bleh. And either it's too wet or too dry, I just can't get a consistent vape.
I'm remembering all of the things that were wrong with the two brand new kits I got, the defective charger, defective attys, foul cartomizers, seeping out the top, having to put batteries in upside down, never getting a callback after calling and e-mailing the company, and instead of feeling good about the workarounds, I'm feeling annoyed again. Vaping is important to me, Capisce?
The LR horizontal coil Kanger cartos arrived. But the barrel is some sort of Martian alloy, very hard to drill, and the coil is very close to the bottom anyway. Will need to put on a fresh drill bit.
Tried the Kanger undrilled, first on an eGo battery (3.3 volts). The resistance measured a bit under 1.9 ohms. There is huge vapor. The temperature of the vapor is quite high, and the flavor is altered. The heat affects the flavor negatively I think. I think the Boge 2 is significantly better on flavor, the vapor amount is about the same, but the Boge's vapor is cooler and refreshing, even at higher voltage, it also somehow seems "finer". I don't find the Kanger tasty on the VMOD's unregulated voltage, though it's better than a Silo.
This guy agrees: Boge beats Kanger on vapor quality and taste:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVlgbCZbbP0
Can someone suggest the best sort of punch to try on cartos? What spring-loaded type? How about a 1/4" brass tapping saddle valve?
But what is it about the Silos, and how can people here accept them? Are mine from a batch with a unique revolting wick material? Are the coils badly mounted so they touch something that burns/melts? I can't see down there.
I'm stuck with making holes in Boges, I guess, or these rigs are pretty useless.
I really feel for Brian. Manufacturing is tricky. QA is worse.
I tried a Silo after soaking, then rinsing, in 75% ethanol -- we can't get any true Everclear in Calif, heaven knows why. Wrapped it with thin tape (it can't be thick stuff or even one wrap is too much). Good seal. Primed the Silo from above, and fed it from below. I was thinking "'cmon, this is just a horizontal coil carto, it's got to be Ok after all that soaking", put in a fresh battery, and hit the switch. But something's not right. There's a brief moment after it's freshly juiced when it seems OK, good vapor, and then a strange taste appears, at first it's annoying, I was squirshing to try to keep it down, and then it became nauseating, literally. I've set it aside and I'm sitting here feeling queasy. Put the Boge back in, same setup, same juice, and it tastes and vapes wonderful.
Managed to push the coils down on one atty so nothing is glowing and tried it again. The vapor is so-so and it tastes bleh. And either it's too wet or too dry, I just can't get a consistent vape.
I'm remembering all of the things that were wrong with the two brand new kits I got, the defective charger, defective attys, foul cartomizers, seeping out the top, having to put batteries in upside down, never getting a callback after calling and e-mailing the company, and instead of feeling good about the workarounds, I'm feeling annoyed again. Vaping is important to me, Capisce?
The LR horizontal coil Kanger cartos arrived. But the barrel is some sort of Martian alloy, very hard to drill, and the coil is very close to the bottom anyway. Will need to put on a fresh drill bit.
Tried the Kanger undrilled, first on an eGo battery (3.3 volts). The resistance measured a bit under 1.9 ohms. There is huge vapor. The temperature of the vapor is quite high, and the flavor is altered. The heat affects the flavor negatively I think. I think the Boge 2 is significantly better on flavor, the vapor amount is about the same, but the Boge's vapor is cooler and refreshing, even at higher voltage, it also somehow seems "finer". I don't find the Kanger tasty on the VMOD's unregulated voltage, though it's better than a Silo.
This guy agrees: Boge beats Kanger on vapor quality and taste:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVlgbCZbbP0
Can someone suggest the best sort of punch to try on cartos? What spring-loaded type? How about a 1/4" brass tapping saddle valve?
But what is it about the Silos, and how can people here accept them? Are mine from a batch with a unique revolting wick material? Are the coils badly mounted so they touch something that burns/melts? I can't see down there.
I'm stuck with making holes in Boges, I guess, or these rigs are pretty useless.
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There are quite a few comments on other threads about the saddle valve being successful- search saddle valve on ECF using the Google search.
As far as the taste of silos.... I've been using them for a few months and maybe I have become accustom to the taste- but I did fire up my Fistpak yesterday with a 1.5 DC on it- and I found the taste poor (much less) compared to the VMod.
I think the VMOD with a well sealed good carto is top notch, and just works. I have no vested interest in any of this. But I defy anyone from trying a 2 ohm Boge on it and not saying "wow! why have I been putting up with so much less?"
I tried the saddle valve for carto / silo punching.
I found it works great for punching holes higher up on the carto, for use in a tank. BUT-
I could not get it to punch a hole closer than 1/8 inch from the very bottom of a carto- which is not close enough to use with the o-ring on a VMod.
Maybe someone else has / will have better luck.
edit- on my last attempt- the lower thread portion popped out of the tube on the carto- the bottom portion with the threads has a 1/8" sleeve that fits into the tube- making it necessary to punch a hole through both the tubee and the inner sleeve. It seems the inner sleeve would rather bend than get punched.
I found it works great for punching holes higher up on the carto, for use in a tank. BUT-
I could not get it to punch a hole closer than 1/8 inch from the very bottom of a carto- which is not close enough to use with the o-ring on a VMod.
Maybe someone else has / will have better luck.
edit- on my last attempt- the lower thread portion popped out of the tube on the carto- the bottom portion with the threads has a 1/8" sleeve that fits into the tube- making it necessary to punch a hole through both the tubee and the inner sleeve. It seems the inner sleeve would rather bend than get punched.
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If you screw the carto into an extension, it's easier to punch lower on the carto.
Thanks for the response AG. I don't get a burn't or rarely even a dry taste AG. I just had 1 more go bad last night and one this after noon both, just as I changed batteries . I had just given the VMOD a good cleaning (rinse in warm water only) and let it dry completely. One that died when I changed batteries is still showing 1.7Ohm on the MM???? Believe me I am handling my VMOD with kid gloves at all times. The Batteries are either AW IMR 14500 3.7V 600mAH or the 900 mAH purchased from VAPAGE.com, and I tested them all with FLUKE RMS MM Model # 117.
So I then pulled the pin out slightly (as you suggested). This can easily be done with your finger nail, pin or small screw driver with out removing the gasket. Just slip it behind the lip of the pin and lift lightly, it will move about 1/16". The resistance reading on the Atty jumped to 2.24Ohms at that point and still would not fire on any of several PV's (Icon, Reo, JokerVV, Ego, Provari _error reads "no device attached"). I also changed to a very light colored juice. 8 drops of primer, let them soak, checked wick etc, etc, etc.
I am not sure what else to do....please let me know what other information you need and thank you for helping out.
Rowdy
. I had just given the VMOD a good cleaning (rinse in warm water only) and let it dry completely. One that died when I changed batteries is still showing 1.7Ohm on the MM???? Believe me I am handling my VMOD with kid gloves at all times. The Batteries are either AW IMR 14500 3.7V 600mAH or the 900 mAH purchased from VAPAGE.com, and I tested them all with FLUKE RMS MM Model # 117.So I then pulled the pin out slightly (as you suggested). This can easily be done with your finger nail, pin or small screw driver with out removing the gasket. Just slip it behind the lip of the pin and lift lightly, it will move about 1/16". The resistance reading on the Atty jumped to 2.24Ohms at that point and still would not fire on any of several PV's (Icon, Reo, JokerVV, Ego, Provari _error reads "no device attached"). I also changed to a very light colored juice. 8 drops of primer, let them soak, checked wick etc, etc, etc.
I am not sure what else to do....please let me know what other information you need and thank you for helping out.
Rowdy
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Would it be easier to Dremel a very small slot perpendicular to and at the carto base? If so, how many?
Rowdy...
Blown atomizers shouldn't have any reading on the multi-meter.
Sounds like either the batteries are over charging (check them off the charger) or the VMod has a short somewhere.
I have no other explanation why it's only blowing them when you change batteries.
Blown atomizers shouldn't have any reading on the multi-meter.
Sounds like either the batteries are over charging (check them off the charger) or the VMod has a short somewhere.
I have no other explanation why it's only blowing them when you change batteries.
I have read the first 35 pages then skiped to page 320 and read the rest and im tired lol I think i might order one of these not sure yet as i use a riva 510 se with boge 2.0 cartos now and sometimes a 306lr atty/w drip tip. The atty gets real hot real quick so not sure i like that but the vmod looks cool and i would love a feeder of some sort. I think i might wait another week to see what else comes about then place a order. I would like to say thanks to everyone here that has made comments about the v-mod makes ordering one alot safer.
Welcome to the thread!
We always have room for another Vmodian!
Use the code: vapin15
Makes the full battery kit less than $85 with free shipping.
We always have room for another Vmodian!
Use the code: vapin15
Makes the full battery kit less than $85 with free shipping.
Rowdy-
As AG said- a dead atty / silo would have no reading. So, if this happens when you change batteries:
1. the bottom spring (negative to battery) is a solid wire that goes up to and around the atty/silo connection assembly. Unless there is a sever crack or break in the wire, this sone should be fine. Check the positive connection- with the cover off- make sure when you press down on the button- the firing pin hits the top connection on the battery. Maybe one (or more) of your batteries is too short (or long) and is shifting the spring out of position. Also check that the + wire is touching the center post of the atty connector. You will need to bend the catch cup out of the way to see if it's connected.
What makes your VMod start working again... just a new atty / silo, or is one battery working and others not?
Rowdy, try removing the atty/ carto from the Vmod before you change your battery. Then put the atty/ carto back after you switch and see if they last longer. Since it seems to happen when changing batteries this should rule out any kinda of surge or short by changing batteries. I use the AW IMR 14500 batteries I have checked the voltage at full charge and it reads 4.1 to 4.3 volts right off the charger. In over a month I have had 1 (1.5ohm) atty die. I am not removing my atty/ carto when I change batteries....
Thanks for the response AG. I don't get a burn't or rarely even a dry taste AG. I just had 1 more go bad last night and one this after noon both, just as I changed batteries
So I then pulled the pin out slightly (as you suggested). This can easily be done with your finger nail, pin or small screw driver with out removing the gasket. Just slip it behind the lip of the pin and lift lightly, it will move about 1/16". The resistance reading on the Atty jumped to 2.24Ohms at that point and still would not fire on any of several PV's (Icon, Reo, JokerVV, Ego, Provari _error reads "no device attached"). I also changed to a very light colored juice. 8 drops of primer, let them soak, checked wick etc, etc, etc.
I am not sure what else to do....please let me know what other information you need and thank you for helping out.
Rowdy
I was afraid of that. The punch is not sharp enough relative to how much pressure is applied. It happens that in our case dimpling is not acceptable. AG's suggestion is good.
As to a vertical slit, it's not easier to make, and if it's long juice will leak above the gasket.
Drilling is tricky because of positioning, but also the drill tips don't last. There are two layers of tough metal to go through. Drilling generates a lot of heat. The titanium tipped bits cost about $1.80 each and are good to drill 2-3 cartos, no more. Still, even at $3.20 for two Boges + $1.80 for a drill bit, that's less cost than a pair of Silos.
Believe me, if I could stand the Vapage attys/cartos I would use them, but no way. The DOAs and quick fails lead to the same conclusion: Finding a simple way to modify other cartos is do-or-die for the Vmod. In time Brian will likely get the issues worked out, but for now ...
Does anyone know what I can look for in a durable 1/16" drill bit and how best to cool during drilling without pouring oil all over the carto and getting it inside the hole? I'm mounting it on an old battery to provide a heat sink and holding the contraption with a C clamp.
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This is a question for the vmodians w/the first chassis.. I have been using one of my first chassis for dripping and testing juices. It works nekkid, (some day I'll get it some clothes ), and I kept getting juice on my hand. I couldn't figure out where it was coming from, have homemade catch cup installed and bottle just in case of overflow, so it can't be coming from there. So naturally I thought I was just doing something wrong AGAIN. Another picnic error 
After looking at it closely I realized it was leaking through the super glue... Alrighty then! Guess they just don't make things like they used to... ... So has anyone else that is still using the "old" chassis run across this??? Thx
), and I kept getting juice on my hand. I couldn't figure out where it was coming from, have homemade catch cup installed and bottle just in case of overflow, so it can't be coming from there. So naturally I thought I was just doing something wrong AGAIN. Another picnic error After looking at it closely I realized it was leaking through the super glue... Alrighty then! Guess they just don't make things like they used to... ... So has anyone else that is still using the "old" chassis run across this??? Thx AG.... If I have some how offended you I apologize. I was blown away by flavor, vapor, fit, and over all feel of my Vmod when I first got it, and I am simply looking for way get that performance back, somehow.
I know what a blown atomizer reads that's why I put the extra ?????'s. It's was strange that the atty read fine but would not fire on any device even with the pin adjusted. It's almost like there is something loose inside the atty between the pin and coil (maybe some sort of pressure fitting, just guessing). The same batteries are working fine with other devices/atty's/cartos, minus the great flavor, TH, and vapor.
I did take battery reading off the charger (charged to 4.2V, 3.7V under-load).
Thanks
Rowdy
I know what a blown atomizer reads that's why I put the extra ?????'s. It's was strange that the atty read fine but would not fire on any device even with the pin adjusted. It's almost like there is something loose inside the atty between the pin and coil (maybe some sort of pressure fitting, just guessing). The same batteries are working fine with other devices/atty's/cartos, minus the great flavor, TH, and vapor.
I did take battery reading off the charger (charged to 4.2V, 3.7V under-load).
Thanks
Rowdy
You haven't offended me in the slightest.
It just makes no sense that you are blowing through atomizers so quickly.
I haven't even had a single bad hybrid, let alone one that lasted only a few hours.
It just makes no sense that you are blowing through atomizers so quickly.
I haven't even had a single bad hybrid, let alone one that lasted only a few hours.
I'M NOT SAYING WOW I absolutely LOVE LOVE LOVE My Vapage VMOD Atty/Silo's, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
Fernand, I was thinking more of a notch at ~60° on the base edge. I would probably put some PG/VG in the carto to act as a weak heat sink.
Just trying to find alternative devices and methods...
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