thinking about trying a vv mod

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sailorman

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thanks for all the info elf stone. really gave me a lot of info about what everything means. I'm sort of slowly understanding it.

so from what i read i should buy some 2.5-3 ohm attys and cartos i should be able to play with different voltage settings without frying the atty or cart???? and stick with standard resistant ones and not lrs???
the main thing i want to know is just what attys and cartos to buy to really test out diff voltage settings.

and to everyone who tells me to get a provari maybe one day when i am more familiar with vv mods. for now i just want to try out a device thts only gonna cost me less than $100 with chargers and diff attys n cartos that lets me try out vv without spending so much money all at once. as i still need to figure out the basics first.

Yes. Use 2.5 to 3.0 ohm attys and cartos and clearomizers. You can use pretty much the whole range of the VV. Start at a kind of low voltage, maybe around 4V and go up from there. You'll know when you're getting too high. It'll taste hot and flavorless.

What attys and cartos you buy really doesn't matter as much as their resistance. Boge cartos are good and consistent. Get them in 3ohm. Don't get dual coil anythings. A good clearomizer that doesn't require any tweaking to work good is the Fluxomizer from Gotvapes.com Get the 2.8-3.0ohm variety. If you want to try dripping, get a 3.ohm SLB or Boge atty. and don't forget to get a drip tip. You'll want that for the cartomizers anyway. If you decide you really like dripping, there are specialized atomizers for it, but regular ones will work good enough to start with and let you test juice.

As far as where to get the stuff, CrystalClearVaping is good for cartomizers and atomizers. Gotvapes.com is the only place that has the Fluxomizers. CrystalClearVaping has free shipping as well. Being in Canada, I'm not sure of your situation with shipping though. You may be better off to get cartos and attys locally. But for cartos and attys, you can't go wrong with Boge 3ohm.
 

sailorman

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There are a few versions of the Lavatube. The important thing is what version electronics they use. The original version 1 is the one at apolloecigs. It is probably the most stable version. The kinks in the body and some q.c. issues have been ironed out over time. Apollo has several body styles, but they all have the same internals.

The version 1.5 has some improvements, but there have recently been some problems that have surfaced with it. It looks like the basic version 1, but the electronics were supposedly improved. If it didn't have the problems, it would be the one to get.

Then there's a version 1.5T or ver. 2, depending on where you get it. This one has some minor improvements over ver 1.5 in the electronics, but I've heard some bad reports about the build qualtity. Flimsy LED screen, bad threading, just overall lack of build quality control. It looks like the basic version 1, all black, but with a more tapered metal top cap as opposed to the flat cap of the version 1 and 1.5.

To add to the confusion, all three versions are made by different manufacturers so technically, they're all version 1 for their respective manufacturers. The best way to tell them apart is by their amp limits. The ver 1 is 2.5A. The ver. 1.5 is 3.2A and the ver 1.5T, or ver 2 is 4Amps.

If you aren't in love with dual coil or low resistance cartos, which aren't necessary anyway with a VV, then the best and safest route is to get the version 1, especially at the price Apollo has it for. The versions 1.5 and 2 have a couple bells and whistles, like a resistance readout, that are handy but unless you hold out for the version 1.5 to be corrected, it's not worth the risk.

If you have a link to the healthcabin Lavatube, I can possibly identify it, but somewhere in the specs it should say what the amp limit is and that's the easiest way to pin it down.
 

Warren D. Lockaby

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I just broke down (or fixed up) & ordered a SS Vtube from Apollo so now I've got something to be excited about once again. Cheaply excited, mind you, but I'm used to cheap so that doesn't bother me a bit. I almost balked at the extra $30 for stainless steel, but reasoned it was only about $20 difference after the discount, and I don't buy lottery tickets so I save a lot of money there. :D That plus a spare battery knocked a nice dent in my meager vaping budget but that's okay because I've spent very little over the past coupe months. OTOH my "analog reduction plan" has taken a terrible plunge of late so this month I'm committed to renewing my attack. This upgrade to a VV PV struck me as an excellent place to begin. I figure with this, a couple good attys & a few new juices I should be ready to explore some new territory & regain some of the enthusiasm I've been missing. We shall see. Now, to score a couple of IkenVape's Cannon SR atomizers & a few new flavorings....

Blessings to all, & Happy Vaping! :vapor:
 

sailorman

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awesome good to know I'm understanding what i need to buy.
just wondering has anyone bought the lava tube from health cabin?? the picture of it seems kinda different from the ones i see on different websites.

Man. Health cabin is such a ripoff. After all that typing, I went there and took a look. That's not a Lavatube at all. That's the Vision Tox Cannon and it's a total piece of crap. I can't believe they're calling that a Lavatube.

If you doubt for a second what I'm saying, go to Youtube. Search "Pbusardo Tox". That POS has to be the biggest failure in the history of VV. Run, don't walk, away from it.
 

sailorman

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oh ok. it doesn't say the amp limit but here is the link
6v Variable Votage MOD Body & Controler

it'll be great if you can let me know what version that is and if i should get it else where.

Yes, get a Real Lavatube (V-Tube) from Apolloecigs.com Use the discout code "Vtube30" for 30% off. Choose black silver or red aluminum or Chrome plated copper, or Stainless steel.

Unlike what Warren did, don't get your spare battery there. Go to Orbtronic.com and for $7.99 get a 2250mah Panasonic GCR18650CH battery. Free shipping and it's the best battery on earth. I kid you not.
 

sailorman

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I just broke down (or fixed up) & ordered a SS Vtube from Apollo so now I've got something to be excited about once again. Cheaply excited, mind you, but I'm used to cheap so that doesn't bother me a bit. I almost balked at the extra $30 for stainless steel, but reasoned it was only about $20 difference after the discount, and I don't buy lottery tickets so I save a lot of money there. :D That plus a spare battery knocked a nice dent in my meager vaping budget but that's okay because I've spent very little over the past coupe months. OTOH my "analog reduction plan" has taken a terrible plunge of late so this month I'm committed to renewing my attack. This upgrade to a VV PV struck me as an excellent place to begin. I figure with this, a couple good attys & a few new juices I should be ready to explore some new territory & regain some of the enthusiasm I've been missing. We shall see. Now, to score a couple of IkenVape's Cannon SR atomizers & a few new flavorings....

Blessings to all, & Happy Vaping! :vapor:

Congrats. You'll love it. The Stainless one is super nice. Too bad I didn't catch you before you got the spare battery though. Not to worry, the standard batteries aren't bad or anything. It's just that the Panasonic is fantastic and a deal at $8 shipped. The only battery that puts the AW to shame.

Is Ikenvape open for business again? The only Cannons I could find are 3.5ohms. That works good at 5V though.
 

Warren D. Lockaby

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oh ok. it doesn't say the amp limit but here is the link
6v Variable Votage MOD Body & Controler

it'll be great if you can let me know what version that is and if i should get it else where.

Get yours from Apollo Apollo VTube Kit (it's called a VTube there, same thing) and use discount code Vtube30 at checkout for 30% off. I just ordered the stainless steel version there & along with an extra battery, after the discount, total price was $82.42. And keep in mind, this is for the KIT, including tube, 1 battery, 1 charger, 1 atty, 1 carrying case, etc. The one you referred to is just the tube. Also this SS model I ordered is normally 30 bucks higher than the other (aluminum) models Apollo carries, and the same 30% discount will apply to whichever one you choose. I'd seriously give 'em a look. :)

Best wishes & Happy Vaping! :vapor:
 

Warren D. Lockaby

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Congrats. You'll love it. The Stainless one is super nice. Too bad I didn't catch you before you got the spare battery though. Not to worry, the standard batteries aren't bad or anything. It's just that the Panasonic is fantastic and a deal at $8 shipped. The only battery that puts the AW to shame.

Is Ikenvape open for business again? The only Cannons I could find are 3.5ohms. That works good at 5V though.

Thanks, I'd forgotten about the Panasonic batts you'd mentioned before... I'll have to bookmark that site. As for Ikenvape I don't know if they're open or have anything in stock but somebody linked another vendor who carries their attys & might have some in stock: Ecigcharleston.com Welcome I haven't checked in the past few days to see if IkenVape has anything available but have been wanting to try their Cannons & maybe get a couple more io6 in different resistances. It'll be interesting to check out the Charleston site as well, especially if their stock is holding out. :D
 

jnnfrlsw

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In the 3 years I have been vaping this is the best/ easiest to understand power/voltage explanation I have ever read. I learned alot of new info.. Thanks!



I'm going to go ahead and re-do a whole explanation, but for bottom line is that your vape depends on volts and ohms. The higher the volts and the lower the ohms, the warmer the vape. Once you have a variable voltage device you need to worry less about the Ohms, and you should stick to a "standard resistance" of around 3 Ohm and just play with the voltage to keep things simple.

Now for the rest, if you don't mind:

Volts - measure what is called "difference of potential"; essentially it measures how much "force" there is to drive the current through a circuit - you can make up several analogies, but the most common would be with pressure: the battery is like two gas cylinders, one at high pressure, one at low pressure and the voltage is the difference of pressure. If you connect them with a tube, the gas will flow...

Amps - refer to the electrical current - how much electricity flows through the circuit in a unit of time; it's the equivalent of flow rate as it were...

Ohms - refer to resistance - how hard does the circuit / conductor / atomizer coil fight against the flow of current

Watts - measure power. That translates into energy - power is energy in a unit of time. For us, this is the key measure because it directly translates into heat and that into amount of vapor and vapor warmth.

All of the above are related, to simplify everything to our case, by the fact that voltage pushes current to flow through a resistance and that generates heat. You try to push something through, and the wire fights back - things get heated

The higher the current and the higher the resistance, the more heat. It just so happens that the current matters much more than the resistance. The mathematical expression is:

Watts = Amps x Amps x Ohms​

BUT, this is a wonderful example on how two intuitive relationships combined give a less intuitive one.

The current itself depends on how hard it is pushed and how much resistance it encounters. That is logical, too... The mathematical expression is:

Amps = Volts / Ohms​

If you combine them, then you get:

Watts = Volts x Volts / Ohms​

So for practical purposes, to get the same power you can increase the Volts or decrease the Ohms within certain limits. You get more by increasing the volts than by decreasing the resistance by the same amount...


Basically you vary your power to get a warmer or a cooler vapor. As you do that you find that for some juices, or for some times of the day even, you like a differently powered vape. Some juices taste better at a higher power, while some may get burned at that same power.

The variable voltage devices let you do that by changing the voltage, but you need to remember your power also depends on the resistance. If you lower the resistance, you will need less volts, so you have to kind of keep that in mind. Moreover, if you lower the resistance too much and you keep pushing a lot of volts, you can fry your low resistance atty.

But there is no need for you to really change the resistance of your atties if you use a variable voltage device, so most people settle on, say, 3 Ohms, and then only play with the voltage.

It's just something to keep in mind if you happen to put a differently resisted head on your PV...


The other type of devices are variable power: Darwin and the Kick. With these, you need not worry about the math, they do it for you; so regardless what resistance you put on, the Darwin / Kick will fix the voltage so you get the power you had set them on.

The only problem with that are dual coil devices. These have a low total resistance, but in fact they are made of two standard resistance coils linked in parallel. Therefore, they draw power like a low resistance attachment, but their vape is cooler, because it's pretty much as if you vaped two standard resistance attachments at the same time. Darwin/Kick doesn't know that and treats them according to their total resistance. You do get the power you set, but the warmth is no longer proportional to the power, because each coil gets only one part of that power...



And finally, this is one of the posts that best explains this in a metaphoric manner: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...w-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html#post1988870
 

sailorman

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I got mine from the charleston site. The prices are the same as ikenvapes site. I looked a couple days ago and all they had was the 3.5ohm cannon and the 3.5ohm i06. That's the resistance I have and they're fine. I'm using them on a 5V passthrough and they're cooking along good. The site says not to use them over 5V, but I've used the cannon at 5.5 a few times. The i06 is really too warm to go much beyond 5V. If you get either one of them, make sure to get drip tips. They're not standard sizes and the flat tip they'll send with the cannon is not very good.
 

nanovapr

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dman87, it sounds like you are doing your homework. Any reliable VV is a great step up. I just bought four LT ver 1.0 for friends that want to stop smoking. I haven't gotten the chargers yet, so I haven't tried them out yet.

Yes, there are better devices in the world. A LT will probably not be a precious heirloom to pass on. It is a good introduction to VV at a reasonable price, and you don't have to not-smoke for very long before it has paid for itself.
 
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