This shoud be a simple question or is it too old tech.

[DavidDaveDavo]

I know what I would like but I'm having trouble finding it. I have searched online and within this forum but I can't seem to find it.

It should be really simple - I feel stupid asking this but I really have searched for this.

All I want is a section type mechanical tube mod that has screw on pieces for all the different standard batteries.
I want button that doesn't stick out a million miles to turn it on and off at the top of the tube that has a lock function/cover to stop accidental firings.
The button contacts should be good for up to 10A max.
I want it plain and simple - no graphics - no fancy engraving - no printing - just a straight, parallel shiny metal tube with a button on the side at the top.
I want a tube/atty combo with flush, continuous lines.
I think the standard diameter is 22mm - this is cool.

I can't seem to find one anywhere - I think I'd have had more luck five years ago.
I can find things similar to what I want on fasttech etc but even there everything is too fancy or only accepts one size battery or is a telescope mod or a vv/vw mod or a box mod.

My reasons for the narrow search are...

I like small and simple and neat.I have a minimalist taste in pretty much every aspect of my life.
VV/VW mods add to the length of the unit and I can get the same effect by correct coil resistance spec.
I don't want telescopic as that increases the width and spoils the lines when it isn't at it's smallest setting.
The button at the top on the side because I'm an ego kid at heart and that's what I'm used to and find comfortable.
A 10 amp contact rating as that lets me have flexibility to lower the resistance/increase power.
I intend to use it with a Kanger subtank or similar. The power will be varied by tuning the resistance of the coil. Advice on subtank alternatives is also appreciated.
I realise that I might have to run a different coil spec for the small 18350 batteries due to current delivery issues.
I understand that the nominal voltage of the battery will drop as it discharges and reduce power.

I currently use...

A VV ego battery with a Kanger protank 3 mini with a 1.5 ohm coil. Though I use the same tank with standard ego batteries as well. I vape a 18mg liquid. If I could find an ego with a battery that lasted and a tank that held a little more juice I would happily keep on using what I've got - I realise that's not going to happen any time soon. I really like my set up when it runs at 4.8V (though how accurrate that is is anyones guess). Maybe a little more power but that's not a big deal.

Currently a 1.5ohm coil on a 4.8 battery equals 15.36W and 3.2A. With a mechanical mod running at 3.7V, 15.36W equals 4.15A and a 0.9ohm coil. Having the 10A switch gives me lots of flexability to go higher if I need to.

I do not want a box mod. They are awesome but I just don't want one. I'll probably end up getting one in the future but for now this is my search requirements. Please don't offer me box mods no matter how cool or awesome you think they are - I ain't interested. It would be like offering a vegetarian a bacon sandwich - pointless.

I don't need a lot and I think I might have found my sweet spot regarding my present vaping needs. I just need more durability.

I hope that I have provided enough information to possibly get some help. I'm hoping someone makes me look stupid and posts a link to the exact device I'm after in the very first reply.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tj99959]

| Silver Bullet | Best electronic cigarettes| Cigarettes Electronic| Cigarette Electronic Cigarette| Best Electronic Cigarettes | Electronic Cigarettes - AltSmoke

Mine is 4 years old and works like new.

 

[Thrasher]

Poldiac Sleek



Lab | atmizoo vaping modware



Both have locking buttons and can fire anything you screw on

Unmatchable build quality and support

 

[Baditude]

I'll second the vote for an AltSmoke Silver Bullet. I have two; the first is almost 3 years old and being used by my son. My second one is about a year old and in daily use along with my Provari.

Recessed side fire button is safe & natural feeling, and rated for like nearly a million presses. It's literally as durable as an elevator button. Durable and lightweight aircraft aluminum body which is extremely well machined. USA built; should it breakdown (unlikely), just return it back to Ohio for repair. Comes in nearly a dozen colors. Uses an 18650 IMR by default. Will use a 18490/18500 IMR if used with a Kick to convert the SB into a regulated device.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup


The "mega tanks" should be the same diameter as a SB.

 

[DavidDaveDavo]

Thanks tj99959.

That is exactly the kind of thing I am after but...

A few questions.

The wall thickness of the tube looks rather chuncky - what is the actual OD of the device. I don't really want something 25mm/1" diameter.
It doesn't seem to come with different uoter tube to allow for a range of battery sizes.

Apart from that it's almost perfectly what I'm after.

Isn't it ironic that it cost's more than a lot of top end VV/VW kit.

If that was 22mm diameter with a range of tubes I would get it today.

 

[DavidDaveDavo]

Thrasher.

Thanks for that. I really like the look of the Poldiak - nice piece of kit.

But I would need to buy at least two of them as I want a tiny 18350 to go walkies with and a 18650 for home use. And at 138 euros a pop is a little too rich for my blood.

I still want one though

 

[gandymarsh]

This doesn't satisfy all your requirements but, since I don't know much about what mech mods are good, I thought you might be interested. The Joye eGo ONE 2200mAh Battery is a mech with short circuit and low battery protection. Very small, about the length of the iStick 20/30 but not a box. Joye eGo ONE 2200mAh Battery

 

[edyle]

There are very few top fired mechs; of those, the poldiac is what I'd recommend;

But otherwise, I'd settled myself towards the astro telescopic mod, and a batch of chiyou 510 flat topcaps; the topcaps are just m21x1 threaded centerpinadjustable topcaps which I will leave permanently attached to toppers/attys.

The telescoping mechs are not sliding/bayonet type telescopes as I used to assume, but instead are threaded telescopes, meaning one of the tubes is a continuous long thread from one end to the other.



Oh; forgot to add;
m21x1 is the same threading on vamo, zmax, king mech, chi you mech

 

[DavidDaveDavo]

Gandymarsh.

Those are viable ideas. They'd certainly have the wattage range I want and they do a little battery as well. Any ideas on a 3/4" 19mm tank. Is the Joyetach tank that's designed for that battery any good? I could use the Subtank nano, I think I might be able to live with a 0.25 mm step (though I can be a fussy old git).

 

[djsvapour]

You are asking quite a bit Dave, but I can see where you are trying to get to.

There's quite a bit that doesn't add up though. Your VV eGO will not be giving you what you think, for one. A Protank 3 would be dry-hitting at 15 watts, surely?

If you are really happy with a 1.5ohm coil at xx watts or so, and would happily buy an eGo that has long battery life then why not buy a sub-ohm capable "big" eGo.

Joyetech eGo ONE, Aspire CF Subohm, and run the correct resistance atomizer tank on it to get your 15+w.

Rather than searching for a Vaping Nirvana with expensive "niche" mods, firstly maybe you should try a straightforward mechanical with a half decent tank.

(no offense...)

Also, you can't seriously do anything much with 18350 batteries, unless you have a load of them.

Put a subtank mini 1.2ohm or a Kayfun built to 1.1-1.5 on a mech and find out more before prescribing yourself the perfect set-up.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you are vaping a mini Protank 3 on a VV eGo, you aren't even walking yet.... you are crawling somewhere barely cruising the furniture.

Also, you can't seriously do anything much with 18350 batteries, unless you have a load of them

I am frustrated, because I won't be coming to Birmingham now for a month and could let you try all sorts of stuff.

 

[edyle]

Thrasher.

Thanks for that. I really like the look of the Poldiak - nice piece of kit.

But I would need to buy at least two of them as I want a tiny 18350 to go walkies with and a 18650 for home use. And at 138 euros a pop is a little too rich for my blood.

I still want one though

I have one of these $10 aluminium mechs:
[https://img.fasttechcdn.com/162/1627200/1627200-2-thumb.jpg[/img]
Very simple; spring loaded center pin.

 

[gandymarsh]

Gandymarsh.

Those are viable ideas. They'd certainly have the wattage range I want and they do a little battery as well. Any ideas on a 3/4" 19mm tank. Is the Joyetach tank that's designed for that battery any good? I could use the Subtank nano, I think I might be able to live with a 0.25 mm step (though I can be a fussy old git).

I don't have any personal experience with the Ego One but I have read several positive reviews on it. Indoorsmokers did a review recently. Here's the link to his review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0oTJcxtDNE

 

[DavidDaveDavo]

Djsvapour,

No offence taken. To be honest I thought that because all I wanted was a simlpe multi section mech tube mod, and that I'd look a complete idiot and that the first response would point me to a $25 cheapo mod that would suit my needs. Which I would have been very happy with.

You're probably correct about the wattage delivery of my VV battery. I have no idea if it has wattage limit set into it. If it does that makes things easier really as I'm just going by the numbers on the dials. It's a Kanger EVOD VV.

I'm an electrical engineer by trade. I'm not electronics (whole different field). I work in industrial control and automation. I'm just using Ohms law to calculate power. if (and as you rightly point out - that's a BIG if) my battery is putting out 4.8V and the coil is 1.5 Ohms then in my world my numbers add up. However, I am well aware that battery operated stuff is completely unknown territory for me. The batter might not be able the physically deliver the watts I'm calculating. You have to bear in mind I'm used to 100A+ 3ph circuits and servo drives and inverters and PLC systems. Sure I know about those But this ain't my world and I'm very aware of that.

An 18350 battery would still be more use than a standard ego. I like small and neat and I know that opens me up to everyone suggesting their pet box mod (I've seen how this place works lol.

Chaep and cheerful is fine by me. But I do actually want the form factor that appeals to me. Like you say -- everything is a step up from where I am now.

Your advice is appreciated by the way.

 

[Grimwald]

I know this isn't quite right (but all of the good ideas have already been taken).

I use something called an Joyetech Evic Easy. It's a basic regulated head that will accept various sized tubes for an Evic or Smok SID. I run mine with both 18650 and 18350 tubes. It's 22mm.

 

[djsvapour]

I just wonder....

Normally, finding a smart tube mod with various configurations is easy. There are lots of nice ones, from plain to patterned.

Many can take 3 sizes of battery, and presumably even a kick module using the 65mm (or 50mm) tubes with a 50mm (or 35mm) battery. But, the buttons are often in the base... and I don't know about the locking mechanisms generally. The Nemesis lock is easy enough to use and I went from side button (eGos) to side base (GG clone) to base (Nemesis) over a few months of messing around. A kick would make sense if you are after a consistent watt output coupled with long-ish battery run time. 15 watts (controlled by a kick) would/should be superior compared to full whack on an EVOD VV.

One clean-looking mod I always liked the look of was the 4 Nine mod... it's got a wierd hybrid-look connection. Maybe I'll get one (clone) sent next order and try it out with various RBAs.

 

[rolygate]

Just in case it's of any interest:
- A Joye eGo ONE is not a mech, it has wiring and electronic controls. It's a large-scale eGo.

- A Silver Bullet is not a mechmod, it has a wired switch - you could call it a semi-mech or a basic electrical device.

- Mechmods aka mechs have no wiring, no switch, and no electrics or electronics - they have an actuator: a spring-loaded contactor or similar arrangement (some have 2-magnet contactors, some old ones had a spring-loaded sliding battery, etc.).

- Lithium ion cells have a nominal voltage of 3.7v, with an off-charge voltage of about 4.2v and a minimum recharge voltage of 3 to 3.5 volts, depending on your preferred point at which to take them off load and recharge them. A single cell device delivering 4.8 volts would have electronic regulation of the boost or buck/boost type, or use two cells in series with some kind of dropper method.

 

[Hitmetwice]

Gandymarsh.

Those are viable ideas. They'd certainly have the wattage range I want and they do a little battery as well. Any ideas on a 3/4" 19mm tank. Is the Joyetach tank that's designed for that battery any good? I could use the Subtank nano, I think I might be able to live with a 0.25 mm step (though I can be a fussy old git).

I've been using the larger tank for a while now with the .5 ohm coils. I like it okay for under 20.
The batts are really quite small and may be the weakest link as far as durability, however, we should not be abusing our batts anyways. Given proper care they are fine. The juice levels are a little hard to see as the windows are slim.

The coils are pricey(4-5$ each) but last me well over 3 weeks and then I rewick 'em with ... cotton, same wire coil. A little fiddly but do-able.

Gave a kit to my son, he prefers the 1 ohm coil. He brought it by a couple weeks ago and the tank was crancked on the battery so tight I had to use pliers to get it off (newbs!)

I may get the small kit for myself, looks good, works well and man it is tiny. Cheers.

 

[Thrasher]

Thrasher.

Thanks for that. I really like the look of the Poldiak - nice piece of kit.

But I would need to buy at least two of them as I want a tiny 18350 to go walkies with and a 18650 for home use. And at 138 euros a pop is a little too rich for my blood.

I still want one though

You just buy different tubes much cheaper.

You did say durable/quality so I went by that to many of us owners reliability, and quality are worth any price.. And there aren't any disappointed poldiac owners

MMV also has sales constantly works out to about 65 US

But sure the SB Works too.

 

[DavidDaveDavo]

rolygate

Whether its a spring loaded base or sliding battery in electrical terms that still constitutes a switch. A spring in the base and a moving piece of metal is still a switch - it's just a switch with a weird basic format. Anything with a power source and a circuit could conversely be describes as a basic electrical device. I think if i had described what I was looking for as a basic electric device I that might have confused the issue.

Switch definition - a device for making and breaking the connection in an electrical circuit. Moving batteries, magnets and springs all count.

Plus most lithium batteries have protection circuitry built in - therefore making even the most simplistic mechanical mod quite an advanced electronic device as soon as the battery is inserted.

I totally see your point about an ego one not being a mech - neither is the Aspire CF battery either, But they could possibly suit my form factor requirement. Though I did look at the CF batteries and felt that they were too long. Whatever electronics is inside those things is either complicated or not very well packaged for space. My main requirement is a small package that is as seamless as possible, Hence asking for a tube style mod (as I will now refer to it as that leaves the ambiguity needed). A tube style mod has to be the shortest variant of the style of mod I want to own.

Taking some of what djsvapour has said - and applying my own logic to things. I think that I'm probably better off buying two cheap tube style mods to suit my different battery needs and making sure I have a decent atty. After all, when you take away the complicated VV/VW circuitry of the latest gadgets the the atty is the item doing most of the work. The rest is just a battery, a tube, a switch and some rudimentary turning and milling operations.

Thanks people for all your help. You've given me things to think about that I wouldn't have done if I hadn't posted the question.

 

[edyle]

I know this isn't quite right (but all of the good ideas have already been taken).

I use something called an Joyetech Evic Easy. It's a basic regulated head that will accept various sized tubes for an Evic or Smok SID. I run mine with both 18650 and 18350 tubes. It's 22mm.

Have any idea what threading that is, or is not? m20x1, m21x1, m20x0.5, m22x1 ?