RDA titanium coil critique and advice

[tomitom12]

So i venture into building with titanium today this is my first build i did with it. The pics should explain everything. i am using .5mm titanium sweet pots vapors my uld i di is an 8 wrap around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Advice and critique most wanted. Yes i know i am using a evic vtc mini and it ohmed out to .13 but when it fires it reads at .23 ohms. im firing at 50w at 260 degrees celsius.pics show all of this
Thanks all

 

[tchavei]

260C seems high, sweet spot titanium is a can of worms.

Nice build though is that rayon or cotton?

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[tomitom12]

260C seems high, sweet spot titanium is a can of worms.

Nice build though is that rayon or cotton?

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cotton so i got my build right and everything sounds right so in theory i did alright for my first shot? Also what would you run with with titanium?

 

[tchavei]

Well, I don't get the jump to 0.23 but I don't know the mini vt. I used to have the normal VT and it used to undershoot a bit, hence higher than normal temperatures.

I run between 230C and 235C but that's on dna based devices. We could be actually vaping at the same temperatures. I wouldn't be surprised that sweet spot titanium throwing the
VT software a little off. The resistance curve on that ti is slightly different to normal gr1 titanium.

Cheers


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[tomitom12]

Well, I don't get the jump to 0.23 but I don't know the mini vt. I used to have the normal VT and it used to undershoot a bit, hence higher than normal temperatures.

I run between 230C and 235C but that's on dna based devices. We could be actually vaping at the same temperatures. I wouldn't be surprised that sweet spot titanium throwing the
VT software a little off. The resistance curve on that ti is slightly different to normal gr1 titanium.

Cheers

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Thats what i thought too i've always had funky reads on the mini and they even said on the sweet vapes website that it will jump a little. Thanks for your tidbit on this and will be definitely playing around with the stuff

 

[sig-cmt]

We must not be looking at the same coils as I see uneven wicking through non-symmetrical coils not installed along similar planes. TC is more sensitive to symmetry than not. And is the centerpost of the RDA spinning? I have used 0.5mm SSV Ti in the past. It is annealed, easy to tension and work hardens into position relatively well. Offhand, I would toss those coils out and tension wrap a new set on a pair of #6-32 machine screws (~2.5mm ID).

 

[tchavei]

We must not be looking at the same coils as I see uneven wicking through non-symmetrical coils not installed along similar planes. TC is more sensitive to symmetry than not. And is the centerpost of the RDA spinning? I have used 0.5mm SSV Ti in the past. It is annealed, easy to tension and work hardens into position relatively well. Offhand, I would toss those coils out and tension wrap a new set on a pair of #6-32 machine screws (~2.5mm ID).

Nice build in terms of using dual titanium coils which isn't the norm (precisely because of what you pointed out). Regarding positioning and looks, I'm typing from a phone. I can't spot those little details. It does seem correct with the read resistance i.e. half of a single coil in that geometry.

There are tons of good info on the Ti thread. The op should check it out.

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[muzichead]

There are tons of good info on the Ti thread. The op should check it out.

What a novel idea!!!

 

[tomitom12]

We must not be looking at the same coils as I see uneven wicking through non-symmetrical coils not installed along similar planes. TC is more sensitive to symmetry than not. And is the centerpost of the RDA spinning? I have used 0.5mm SSV Ti in the past. It is annealed, easy to tension and work hardens into position relatively well. Offhand, I would toss those coils out and tension wrap a new set on a pair of #6-32 machine screws (~2.5mm ID).

yes i know it isn't perfect its my first ti build. as far as uneven wicking i can't see that. If the coil is off then the wicking is off, right? Yes the center post spins and i need to get new grub screws for my attie. I made sure the center post was in relative position for building and is to far off left or right.

 

[WharfRat1976]

That's a Vector, correct? Your Centerpost spin is easily fixed. When you torque the grub screw on the center post you have to hold the post with a needle nose to make sure it doesn't spin. Sometimes tightening the center pin is not enough and it tends to spin.

Also, I agree with the above comment on symmetry. On my Vectors I like the coils higher, nearer the intake air holes. This can create wicking issue.

I don't like your wick under the coil. It creates carmelization and reduces overall airflow which the Vector needs.

For Ti builds you need to get more wick INSIDE the coils with as fluffy a shoulder as you can get making contact with your leads as well. Your front right shoukder looks great. Make them all lkke that. Get more wick through the coil then tweak the coil for symmetry. I use very loose rayon. A big thick piece. It works well.

Just my $0.02. GL

 

[tomitom12]

That's a Vector, correct? Your Centerpost spin is easily fixed. When you torque the grub screw on the center post you have to hold the post with a needle nose to make sure it doesn't spin. Sometimes tightening the center pin is not enough and it tends to spin.

Also, I agree with the above comment on symmetry. On my Vectors I like the coils higher, nearer the intake air holes. This can create wicking issue.

I don't like your wick under the coil. It creates caramelization and reduces overall airflow which the Vector needs.

For Ti builds you need to get more wick INSIDE the coils with as fluffy a shoulder as you can get making contact with your leads as well. Your front right shoulder looks great. Make them all lkke that. Get more wick through the coil then tweak the coil for symmetry. I use very loose rayon. A big thick piece. It works well.

Just my $0.02. GL

yes its a vector good eye and guess. I know its an easy fix on centerpost spin. Ill keep the players handy from now on when building. YOu cant really see it in the pics nut i made my builds kind of high im still trying to find that chery spot for air flow that i like. I can see where this can be a wicking issue then again i always been wicking many different ways and haven't really found a good method yet. Now almost all my vape shops have been re wicking my attie when i'm out and about and tuck it like i did. What would be a good method to get the most out of my wick and flavor.

 

[WharfRat1976]

I do them like this. The vapor is thrown to the top and direct bottom of the coil. Keep as much airflow as you can below the coil and have big thick shoulders off the sides. I put 5 drops of juice on the coil and do quick pulses to prime it. Then 5 more drops and quick pulse. I barely touch the wick; only to tuck in any loose hairs. Dont pack your wicks at all. Then I juice the wicks and vape. Priming them this way makes them really absorbant.

 

[tomitom12]

i just rewicked like so and its much better. I've been adding a thin coat of juice to my wicks pulsing, let it sit a couple of minutes. Add a little more juice and sit for a couple of minutes. Then vape her. If i'm in a rush apply let sit for a minute hit a couple of times let it sit again and then ill vape it dry before i re juice. Seems to work. Thanks for all your advice its really helping.

 

[WharfRat1976]

i just rewicked like so and its much better. I've been adding a thin coat of juice to my wicks pulsing, let it sit a couple of minutes. Add a little more juice and sit for a couple of minutes. Then vape her. If i'm in a rush apply let sit for a minute hit a couple of times let it sit again and then ill vape it dry before i re juice. Seems to work. Thanks for all your advice its really helping.

That's great. There is a youtube video of this method for priming your wicks. That's where I got it from.

Rayon is my fav wick and far and away the best to work with. It really stuffs well into your coil and resaturates extremely fast. With Ti builds i tweak my spaced coils after they are wicked to perfect the symmetry. It is fussy wire so have to be gentle for sure.

 

[tomitom12]

That's great. There is a youtube video of this method for priming your wicks. That's where I got it from.

Rayon is my fav wick and far and away the best to work with. It really stuffs well into your coil and resaturates extremely fast. With Ti builds i tweak my spaced coils after they are wicked to perfect the symmetry. It is fussy wire so have to be gentle for sure.

YES!!!!!!!!! its not the easiest wire to work with especially on a three post attie hence mine look good wrap wise but symmetry sucks. im toying with a different wick material but ill just stick too good old cotton. Not the pads or bacon. Have issues with both

 

[Nikea Tiber]

To make better ti coils you have to learn to tension wind, either via jig or a mandrel that allows positive lock on the wire so you can use pliers and some elbow grease to wind your wire under tension.
I haven't had the pleasure of working with pre-annealed ti, only springy grade 0, tension winding is a must for consistent coil size.
Working with TC means you need to take extra steps towards consistency (both in coil construction, and also wicking) especially if you are building dual coil setups.
There is a pretty good discussion on tension winding coils here on the boards.
The great thing about building RDAs is that every time you rebuild it you get a little better at it as long as you aren't complacent.
Not a bad start, but dial in building single coil setups; they take half the time to build, so you will find out how well you did by vaping it sooner, and have half as much to troubleshoot. Once you have got single coil builds down to where they always vape consistently great, start to double the building step.

 

[Crow79]

Easiest way to deal with titanium is get a coil jig like the coilmaster.

Wrap your contact coil, and when it is the length you want, grab the end lead with a pair of pliers and pull the coil out to space it. Take the other lead out of the feed hole, flip it around, and compress it against the jig a couple times. Then take your pliers again, and tension each lead on the jig so the ends of each coil are perfect. You'll end up with a perfectly spaced coil every time.

Even better... If you have the dexterity, spin a parallel coil on the jig, and then Separate the coils so that you have two perfectly symmetrical coils... The trick is unwinding the parallel coil without destroying it's shape. Difficult to master, but great for creating dual coil builds that work as intended if you can master the technique.

I personally have switched to stainless steel, it's just way easier to work with and can be used in both power and TC mode

 

[sig-cmt]

My preferred method and tools for spaced ≤ 24g titanium coils...

• Yost 250 Clamp-On Bench Vise
• KNIPEX Precision ESD Gripping Pliers
• #6-32 | #8-32 Machine Screws (316L)