fast foward to 14:00-14:45, you will see how the deck detaches from the base, this means when you're building the deck will be rotating freely unless you do the allen screw method like the sigelei moonshot, also I think the reviewer states this as well somewhere in there.
Tornado RDTA by IJOY features Dual, Quad, and Hex Coils
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That is a big con for me, along with the glass being held on only by the orings when the deck is off. The design means that you can't work on the deck if your tank is full.
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I see no mention of an Allen Key there. Here, he says that the deck is held in place by the chamber...
Sure, better design than the Moonshot, but I still think most of the velocity-style, Crius/Griffin etc, atties are better designed. I love the side fill (pretty much the main reason I still use the Crius), but the Billow v3 has that and more. The six coil deck is interesting, but not something I need.
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I like the overall design of the billow v3 better as well but the ijoy tornado seems to be a tad shorter while still holding about 6ml of juice. I preordered the T6 deck as well, i'll probably use it for experimentation and if I do end up using it on a daily basis it will probably be with a 4 coil build.
Honestly don't see myself vaping at 100+ watts, can't find a decent reason for it other than epeen.
Epeen, huh? I had to look that one up.
The Tornado claims a Capacity of 5.0ml.
I finally got a Tracking Number. No expected deliver date, but it's in my state now, so I should have it by Wednesday.
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lol yes gamer's lingo, got it from my gaming days...well hardcore gaming days.
Hope to get mine soon, I opt'd out of the top airflow piece cuz it just adds more length and I wanted to tornado for its shortness
Hope to get mine soon, I opt'd out of the top airflow piece cuz it just adds more length and I wanted to tornado for its shortness
Yes when the tank is fully assembled thats how the deck is held in place, but the deck itself isn't screwed into the base. If you look at the deck's pin you'll see NO threads but a hole, just like the moonshot.
B/c its almost physically impossible (or impractical) to build on the deck while its held in place by the deck cover (ie: Chamber), the only way to have the deck held in place on the base is via the allen key method.
My normal vaping is with a Temp Control Mod, but I'm really looking forward to the Tornado with my new Nasy Mod.
Yea I haven't tried building on anything but Kanthal so my experience with TC is via ni200 prebuilt coils. I'm going to say I am neutral with it. I like power mode b/c I know the longer I hold on the fire button the hotter the vape gets, sort of like driving a manual I guess.My normal vaping is with a Temp Control Mod, but I'm really looking forward to the Tornado with my new Nasy Mod.
I've built with many TC wires. I really like Ni200 in 30g. Other than that, I like SS 430 a lot for TC.
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maybe I'll buy some SS wires and try building with it. How does ni200 and ss differ from Kanthal? Less springy? More springy? Easier to work with? Harder to work with? Can you dry burn them to remove hot spots?
Please do, hopefully its not allen key method.I'll let you know about that when I get mine.
[edit] Could've gotten the silver version by now but NO my OCD self needs a black one...
They are all springy, but you can do the cigarette lighter flame "torch" for a single pass to help that. I do that with an SS wire, but usually don't with Ni200. However, all SS wires are versatile in that you can use them in TC Mode or VW Mode. I'd recommend getting SS 430, so you can use it in TC Mode whenever you decided to. The resistance of any SS wire is approximately half of Kanthal, but it vapes much cooler than Kanthal. That makes it great for super subohm builds. Just set the Steam Engine Coil Calculator to the SS type and wire gauge.
There is a way to "dry burn", but you have to dampen the coil with water and blow on it. I just run the Temp up to 550°F and 600°F to give it something of a burn off vape a few times with the wicking in place. But don't ever do this with a dry TC wire. If it doesn't pop, it can release some very bad stuff. Especially Ni200.
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Annealed ni200 is really soft, and therefore difficult to rewick. Tempered ni200 is easier to work with, but ni200 simply has such a low resistance that you're forced to use rather high gauges. Also, you can't dryburn or used it in vw mode. I would recommend against using it.
Ss is my favourite tc wire. Can be dryburnt (it doesn't release any dangerous stuff) and used in power mode, or on a mech mod. I've used ss304 and ss316 which are not springy and fairly similar to kanthal to work with. I've heard that ss430 is springy.
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30g Ni200 is tricky to wick, but I love it. I get crazy long vape times from a build, but I agree about rewicking. It's time for a new build when it's time to rewick.
There are many people who won't use anything at all but SS 430. I like it too.
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