Tried and tried. Can't get this genesis to work! :(

[stealthspy589]

I've been vaping 2 years now and finally got a AGA T2 genesis style atty. I'm using nichrome 60, 27 ohms/ft wire. and 400 mesh. I've been going at it for 2 or 3 hours now and the only thing I've been able to get is the top portion of the top of the coil leading to the positive post to be the only part that gets hot and just snaps. I've dropped the voltage increased the voltage, pulled the wick closer to the post using the drill bit method, followed several videos, tried Scubabatdan's rolling paper method. I want to get this down so I can switch from wicks and poly fill to get a truer flavor and better vape, but I just can't get it to work no matter how hard I try. My ONLY guess that I have at this point is the wire is too thin maybe?

I simply can not get this .... to work. I'm ready to melt it with thermite and be done with it.

 

[vapdivrr]

yes, the wire is to thin, with nichrome the coil must be perfect, with no shorts, whenever doing a coil, most of the time there will be a need to adjust the wires to get rid of a hot spot, but with thin wire, it doesnt give you time to adjust, it just pops the wire, to touchy for me. i would reccomend at least a gauge of 32 kanthal. this will atleast give you a little more time to work out the issues. even with 32g it can pop if you have a pretty good short, just start at very low voltage as you work out the problems. the thicker the wire imo, the easier it is to set-up. i personally use either 30 or 28g, but at first 32g works good. good luck. now with the drill bit method, you might have a better chance with the wire you have now. find some kind of rod that will fit into your wick hole, then you can wrap the wires around this rod to make a coil, then after a nice coil is wrapped around this, you insert this rod into wick hole and attach leads, then take out the rod from the wires, then insert the wick into the pre madecoil.

 

[stealthspy589]

I just ordered some 28 and 32 gauge. The drillbit method was what got me the furthest, I got a perfect coil last night and was so excited, got good vapor and it was sizzling great. But the top lead was still red hot and snapped lol. It wasn't really working right though because it was brutal. It tasted like.... metal. It was incredibly harsh. I've deoxidized my wick about 4 times with a torch so my only guess was that I had some rolling paper burning still or something, or possibly a bad carbon buildup.

About the shorts, what are you referring to? Like parts of the coil touching each other?

 

[williebb123]

the coil is shorting on the mesh vapdivrr is correct with his post you say the top coil gets red then the next coil down that doesnt get red is the short it needs to be nudged

 

[williebb123]

keep working it all the way down 2 coils red 3 coils red 4 coila red all needs to be glowing as even as possible

 

[stealthspy589]

So the coil can't touch the wick? O_O

 

[fed71]

Always better once to see how to do correctly.

 

[stealthspy589]

I will try that when the 32 comes in the mail probably thursday. Thanks a ton guys

 

[williebb123]

So the coil can't touch the wick? O_O

no its got to touch the wick that why you oxidize the wick

 

[stealthspy589]

Got it working! You guys were right it was shorting. It will still glow red on the top a little if I don't keep it nice and wet. I'll redo it when the new wire comes in. Till then this work. It's awesome!

 

[stealthspy589]

So I got it working now. But it's really harsh, is it because it's new? Any tips welcome Other than that it's glorious

 

[vapdivrr]

So I got it working now. But it's really harsh, is it because it's new? Any tips welcome Other than that it's glorious

is your airhole linning up inline with the wick? if not very harsh.

 

[stealthspy589]

No I never thought about that. It seems to be working now though, I had changed the coil again so it was probably a hotspot. Only time I get it now is if the wick gets dry lol.

 

[budynbuick]

First,you have to want this 'real' bad. all the watching how & all the instruction in the world won't do it till you mess up about eight/ten coils over about eight/ten hrs time will it start to click. You have to take what you have learned & keep doing it over & over till you get it. I think most will just give up. There are little nuances to making a proper coil that can't be taught in print/video. Don't give up.

 

[vapdivrr]

No I never thought about that. It seems to be working now though, I had changed the coil again so it was probably a hotspot. Only time I get it now is if the wick gets dry lol.

actually, even if your wick is completely dry all the coils should all light up evenly and pretty much together. see i dry burn my coils every couple of days, just to get rid of any crud build up and to check to see if everything is still going good, so if i see any one coil hotter then the others, then i know somethings not right. i would actually know this without dry burning because of the flavor, when one coil is red and the others are not, its a hot spot and will affect the flavor alot. so dont think that because the juice is hidding the hotspot its ok. i mean you can get away with it, but you are not getting 100percent of the devices performance. keep working on it. so whether wet or dry no hotspots is key to a perfect build

 

[Thrasher]

hen one coil is red and the others are not, its a hot spot and will affect the flavor alot.

dead on.one thing not mentioned yet is with the drillbit coil the wick has to be loose it cant be shoved in there or so loose it falls in bt kind of floating in place. many times improper tension of the coil against the wick will drive you crazy with shorting or hotspots.
make sure the coils are not only eveny spaced. but evenly coiled around the wick. not up on one side tilted on the other, too close here too far there. sometimes - it seems weird i know, i end up having to adjust the coil stack near the bottom to make the top stop glowing.
and above all else make sure the wick is not on the bottom of the tank. this will drive you nuts.


the screw driver i use is the exact size of the wicks i make for my cobra, i wrap the coil on the rod, insert the screw driver, fasten the neg wire then loosely clamp the top of the wire and straighten out the coil with a paperclip, then i unscrew the top nut and pull the wire tight until the whole coil tightens up, and while holding the wire tight i lock the nut. it grabs the screw driver so i have to twist it out like unthreading a screw. then slide the wick in and do my mechanical oxidation (skip that part lol) check the ohms, and dry fire it, add a few drops juice and fire again and adjust if needed. then fill and vape.

 

[Plumes.91]

its not that hard, just make a loop in the wire going to the positive post and the hot spot is gone. easy.

 

[vapdivrr]

its not that hard, just make a loop in the wire going to the positive post and the hot spot is gone. easy.

or the washers are a good one on the aga. the aga does have some extra distance between the wick & pp. washers between the top two nuts on the pp will shorten this distance and prevent the top lead from glowing to hot

 

[dhomes]

I just ordered some 28 and 32 gauge. The drillbit method was what got me the furthest, I got a perfect coil last night and was so excited, got good vapor and it was sizzling great. But the top lead was still red hot and snapped lol. It wasn't really working right though because it was brutal. It tasted like.... metal. It was incredibly harsh. I've deoxidized my wick about 4 times with a torch so my only guess was that I had some rolling paper burning still or something, or possibly a bad carbon buildup.

About the shorts, what are you referring to? Like parts of the coil touching each other?

what I do with the drill bit method, regardless of gauge: while the drill is still on the wick hole, keep it as vertical as you can with one hand, with the other just pull gently the wire towards the positive post & make a WHOLE wrap around the top top nuts. Tighten them (not tooooo much) and you are ready to remove the drill.

This reduces the tension on the top most part of the coil, which prevent it from heating or breaking.

To avoid the shorts I get with the drill bit + unoxidized wick (which I'm using as of late), I just drop directly a few drops at the very top of the wick and do several short pulses. I repeat this a couple of times until the shorts just go away (the coil themselves oxidize just the part of the wick below them, but the rest of the wick stays 100% clean)

 

[BlackChad]

I'm pretty much in the same boat as op. No matter how beautiful and evenly spaced I make it my top coil lights right up. So if a washer is a good idea put it between the top two screws? Seems like every coil I'm making is showing between .8 and 1.2. Even if I wrap a 6/5 or 7/6. Using aga–2 on a vamo. I'll get a mechanical soon but help me work with this please

*edit* using a paper clip through a wick, pre-wrapping then inserting. Hooking up both ends and adjusting
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