Triton Tank 3.2 Ohm Replacement Coil Odd Geometry

[Chinook]

Hi,

I have a Triton Tank 3.2 Ohm Replacement Coil and when I look at the coils, I see that they are wound in a weird way. Will this coil be good to use? I made a drawing of the coil looking from the top. One side of the coil is way to the center I think?

 

[jefsview]

You can try to space them out a bit better with a small flathead screwdriver or similar tool if you wish. I have discovered such wonkiness in most pre-built coil heads from the Triton coils, to T2s and iclears. The gauge wire used is usually quite thin, so be care not to break one.

Or, you can just vape on it and hope for the best

 

[Chinook]

Thanks @jefsview!

I developed paranoia for vaping from a new tank/coil thinking that I'll get hit with plasticky/rubbery flavors... Do you think such a coil arrangement more likely cause hot legs and start melting the grommet and add terrible taste to the juice?

Thanks.

 

[Trayce]

I can tell you from the replies I've read in other threads (and I put this in the other one we are posting in before I saw this) how a coil is wrapped CAN cause a hot leg. If that coil is touching the side of the cup, that can cause a hot leg (someone correct me if I'm wrong)... and if coils in a standard wrapped coil are touching or overlapping that can cause a hot spot which leads to a hot leg. So I would center that coil in the cup. As for the larger space in the center of the coil, I have seen some people say it is there purposely since a coil heats from the center outward, having a small space in the center of the coil keeps it from overheating in the center, causing burn. I have no idea how accurate that it.

FTR in a micro-coil it's the opposite... all coils MUST be touching or any spaces can cause a hot leg. But I am not aware of any brand-name micro-coil heads... micro-coils are a technique used by people when rebuilding their heads, if they choose. A micro-coil is suppose to deliver the vapor and flavor of a sub-ohm coil at standard ohm resistances.

 

[Chinook]

Trayce, thanks again!

For the large space/gap at the center of the coil, I was reading that since the juice is coming from the sides via wicks, that's where the heating is concentrated. Center would be the driest place and that's why there is lack of coils there. That made sense to me. What do you think?

 

[Chinook]

Boy now that I'm looking at coils more closely, it's like jungle out there! Lot of variation in the way my coils are wrapped!

Trayce, I haven't thought about the coils touching each other and causing hot legs. I suppose that heat can be concentrated on my side and heat up one of the legs?

Another thing you mentioned is very possible: the quality of rubber is used.

So it's quite possible that the way a coil is wrapped might be "off" and at the same time it might have a ready-to-melt rubber insulator too...

I was also hoping that someone from Halo would comment here about the coil situation...

 

[BigBen2k]

I just pull the wick to center it.

I often pull the burnt part of the wick out of the coil, even if it leaves a longer wick to one side. Twisting the wick works to do this, but it must be dry.

 

[Chinook]

Thanks BigBen2k. I can try that too. I think that'll work if the coil is tight enough around the wick. Sometimes they are, but not all the time.

 

[Chinook]

I think also the bottom of the coils might be touching to the insulator and heating it enough to gas off...

 

[BigBen2k]

I've always been able to move a coil from side to side, but I only use 2.2-2.4 coils.

 

[Trayce]

Trayce, I haven't thought about the coils touching each other and causing hot legs. I suppose that heat can be concentrated on my side and heat up one of the legs?

So it seems from what I've gathered.

Another thing you mentioned is very possible: the quality of rubber is used.

So it's quite possible that the way a coil is wrapped might be "off" and at the same time it might have a ready-to-melt rubber insulator too...

That's my thinking. It's the only plausible explanation at this point I can see, but am certainly open to others. But it seems odd the heads that come with tanks perform pretty well... then the replacement heads bought in bulk so often have this burny grommety problem... cheaper insulators with a lower heat tolerance is one possibility. I am having the same conversation in another thread and the guy there tried cutting a piece of silicone tubing to use in place of the grommet. Silicone is food-grade and has a higher heat resistance... some to 350F some to 500F+ depending on grade. That's probably a lot higher resistance than the grommets they use (or at least some of the grommets if my theory is right). He just did this tonight and had pretty good success with it, but was using a Vivi Nova head which is a little different configuration that a Kanger/Aro head. IAC I am looking into silicone tubing myself... I would LOVE to replace those nasty grommets with something more heat resistant!

As to the center of the coil being left open purposely, yes, I addressed that in my earlier post.

 

[Trayce]

I think also the bottom of the coils might be touching to the insulator and heating it enough to gas off...

Yeah, it should sit up from the insulator a tad. And it's true that it doesn't need to full-on burn that grommet for the grommet to release a nasty taste. I've gotten HORRID tastes from the grommet and tore apart the head expecting to see a huge burn mark and there's barely a little brown char mark on it. Now most of my used heads have 3-5 little char marks right on the top edge. Some might be from dry-burning when testing the coils, but some are from hot legs OR just because the grommets are made of inferior stuff that isn't heat resistant enough for this application.

 

[Chinook]

I'm not sure if I can replace those insulators on the Triton / Kanger II coils. That coil area looks pretty fragile. What a hassle!

In my case, that rubbery taste infuses into the juice itself too. When I take out the mouthpiece, the juice in the tank smells rubbery. Do you get this in your tanks too?

Man, my eyes just popped out

This discussion made me to go back and check the original coils. I have 3 original 2.4 ohm coils that came with the tanks. 2 used and 1 unused... The coils in these are wrapped beautifully and centered... Today I had another "rubber vape" experience with a replacement coil and while cleaning it just now, I noticed that almost two turns/wraps of the coil were touching!!! I'm not 100% sure though -- they were very close to each other. After cleaning, I separated them with the tip of a paper clip!

By the way, if the coils touch each other, the total resistance will drop. And thus the coils will generate more power and heat up more. That might explain the "hot legs".

Edit: Also, I'm not 100% sure but once the tank gets "rubberized", I feel like I can't get rid of that taste. It might be just a coincidence of bad heads too . But I'm not sure..

 

[Trayce]

I'm not sure if I can replace those insulators on the Triton / Kanger II coils. That coil area looks pretty fragile. What a hassle!

Am unfamiliar with that head type. Have only used Kanger and Aro heads. But where there's a will there's usually a way.

In my case, that rubbery taste infuses into the juice itself too. When I take out the mouthpiece, the juice in the tank smells rubbery. Do you get this in your tanks too?

The second I get even a hint of that horrid taste starting I stop drawing, 'spit out' the hit and immediately take the head out. So haven't had it contaminate the tanks yet. But I don't keep vaping "waiting for it to go away" or trying lower power or whatever. But I am sure if I did it would ruin the juice.

Man, my eyes just popped out

This discussion made me to go back and check the original coils. I have 3 original 2.4 ohm coils that came with the tanks. 2 used and 1 unused... The coils in these are wrapped beautifully and centered... Today I had another "rubber vape" experience with a replacement coil and while cleaning it just now, I noticed that almost two turns/wraps of the coil were touching!!! I'm not 100% sure though -- they were very close to each other. After cleaning, I separated them with the tip of a paper clip!

By the way, if the coils touch each other, the total resistance will drop. And thus the coils will generate more power and heat up more. That might explain the "hot legs".

Yup, that could have caused a hot leg and a grommetty taste!

Edit: Also, I'm not 100% sure but once the tank gets "rubberized", I feel like I can't get rid of that taste. It might be just a coincidence of bad heads too . But I'm not sure..

I don't recall if your tank is plastic. I use pyrex and a good cleaning should get rid of that flavor, then as long as you get a working head (good luck with that!) ... should be back in business.

But yeah, these heads are all hand assembled in China so... quality control is not going to be high.

 

[Chinook]

Am unfamiliar with that head type. Have only used Kanger and Aro heads. But where there's a will there's usually a way.

The second I get even a hint of that horrid taste starting I stop drawing, 'spit out' the hit and immediately take the head out. So haven't had it contaminate the tanks yet. But I don't keep vaping "waiting for it to go away" or trying lower power or whatever. But I am sure if I did it would ruin the juice.

I'm usually in disbelief and shock and hope that it'll go away... I'm about to go insane soon I thought I was the only one!

I don't recall if your tank is plastic. I use pyrex and a good cleaning should get rid of that flavor, then as long as you get a working head (good luck with that!) ... should be back in business.

My tanks are unfortunately plastic. I think that smell lingers in them but I'm not 100% sure about it yet.

But yeah, these heads are all hand assembled in China so... quality control is not going to be high.

This also makes me wonder what kind of other chemical we might inhaling...

 

[Trayce]

Well the only 'dangers' that could be in a head would come from the insulator when it gets heated, the silica and the kanthal wire. This is assuming you wash the heads when new to remove the machining oils!

Ideally the insulator shouldn't be heating up at all, but we all know there are those occasions when it does, so it would be nice if the rubber grommets were eventually replaced with high quality silicone grommets that have a higher heat resistance -- and also silicone is inert, so no off gassing.

Silica doesn't release chemicals but some say there is a potential for releasing tiny silica motes that could collect in the lungs and cause problems in the long run. I switched to organic cotton because silica irritates my throat and because cotton gives better flavor, wicks better, creates better vapor, and I prefer staying organic and natural where possible.

Then the kanthal.... I am no chemist and can't attest to whether or not there is any danger of inhaling vapor off heated metallic wire, but some have thrown it out there as a potential downside. Again all paling against smoking.

Last night I rebuilt the same [new] head that's been giving me problems but washed it first in rubbing alcohol per TarFreeMe's advice (since I had no PGA or vodka). And it did completely get rid of the mechanical oils which was nice, and that's becoming part of my routine now. After a few primer puffs I did get the nasty grommetty taste but I notice sometimes when dry-burning a new coil I've made one leg seems to heat up and I get a faint bit of what looks like smoke from the insulator that stinks like the grommet, but the process "rights the coil" somehow, and subsequent dry-burns are good. So knowing that, I continued to take primer puffs, not inhaling, and the coil did seem to right itself. So far no more bad taste, and the vapor and flavor is good. Won't know until tonight for sure as I don't do much vaping until evening.

Don't give up hope. There is an answer to this.... the learning curve is just a little... time consuming! And I am convinced that manuf's should replace the nasty rubber grommet with a silicone grommet. I'd gladly pay a few more pennies per head for this improvement, which is all it would be.

 

[Chinook]

When I dry burn the coils, sometimes I see tiny flashes of burn which looks like tiny hairs of slica melting/burning or vaporizing. I guess those get inhaled!

Glad to hear about about the last coil head you had there! I never had that correction happen yet... I'm also experimenting with soaking the new coils in PGA. At some point I wasn't sure if PGA was changing the non-metallic components too like making the rubber piece more meltable etc...

This is really frustrating, spending so much $$$ and time for this thing! I'm eyeing RBAs. Then I think we won't have these problems...

 

[Trayce]

Well I spoke too soon. The burny grommetty taste is every other puff or so... another no-go.

I was under the impression rebuildable heads are RBAs but maybe a rebuilable atomizer is different? And rebuildable drippers are RDAs...? IAC a dripper doesn't have this problem because there is no grommet, but you do have to add juice constantly. That said my IGO-L dripper is what's been saving me when I get fed up each night trying to get these darn heads to vape without adding Nasty Grommet to the vapor!

EDIT: And yeah, about those silica hairs... when I take a new head apart and pull out the dry wick, instead of coming out in one long piece it comes apart into hairs like goose down fluff. That can't be ideal. Every time I see that I'm glad I switched to cotton.

 

[Chinook]

Sorry to hear about the rubbery taste persisting there!

Today I had better luck. I filled up two of the newer tanks. One of the tanks and its coil had the rubbery taste yesterday. I noticed that its coil had two wraps touching or almost touching. After PGA and filtered water soaks, dry burning the coil and adjusting the wraps with a thin paper clip wire, I put the tank together. The vape was better, no rubber! But the taste was kind of dim, and I think that's due to the juice probably needing more time to steep.

I'm relatively new so I might be confusing the terminology here. What I meant as an RBA I meant something like this :

The Russian 91% Atomizer RBA - Viper Vape Inc

I think you don't have to buy any heads for this... You just need the wire and wick. There are clones similar to this one... I think you need to buy heads right with your setup?

Regarding wicks, I read that some people are using ceramic wick too. Lot of stuff to experiment

From now on, I will be manually adjusting the wraps of the coils on my Triton heads! I guess as long as the insulator itself is OK, that'll hopefully prevent the rubber syndrome.

I hope you can find better insulators for your setup.

 

[Chinook]

Trayce, better luck today?

I'm still vaping stuff from yesterday and these tanks are holding up OK so far.