Triton Tank Problem, and hello!

[mwilson1007]

I had a very long, descriptive post written up with an introduction, a lot of background information and a detailed explanation of my problem, but ECF decided to randomly log me out while I was writing it and I am reALLY MAD ABOUT IT ASDASDSD

Anyway, my name is Matt. I started vaping about 5 months ago and have been lurking ECF for answers to my problems sense then. I am now; however, frustrated and stuck and needing some problem specific guidance.

I'll start by saying I quit smoking and started vaping to save money, and I love my triton variable voltage. It's reliable, I really enjoy Halo's customer support, and it's fairly easy to deal with. That being said, I look at vaping as a habit more than a hobby. I love it, don't get me wrong. I love occasionally tinkering with my tanks to get them going or browsing ejuice provider websites for hours on end, but saving money and convenience are two major concerns I have.

I've currently found myself favoring the 50/50 pg/vg ratio, and also unfortunately favoring those delicious, flavorful, coil gunking eliquids. My current favorites are Guerilla juice, Bobas (AV), Jango, Snake Venom (SJ), and VR4 (Vaperite). These juices are gunking my coils so fast that I literally have to toss them after a day or two. I run water through them, I boil them, I soak them in denture cleaner over night. I've tried dry burning, but it is so hit or miss. Sometimes it destroys the coil, sometimes it works flawlessly and the coil is like new, sometimes it leaves the most disgusting metallic taste in my wicks/coil that no amount of rinsing afterwords will get rid of.

1. Can you dry burn a top-coil system? (I've heard you can, I've heard you can't.)

2. Is there another way to fully de-gunk a pro tank 2 coil?

3. Is there a better suited system for VG or thicker juices that won't cause me such a hassle? I don't want to spend ridiculous amounts of money. My question is more... would buying a thread converter for my triton and going with a different tank system save me some stress? I work 7 days and week, and i do a looot of my vaping there. Convenience is a huge concern.

Thanks for reading! Thanks again for any advice you can offer. Glad to be here!

 

[happydave]

dry burning will only remove the gunk on the coil and outside of the wick. some of the gunk ends up deep in the pores of the wick.

what i like to do is take the top tube off the head, gently pull out the wicks and just toss the head with the original factory coil into an "airplane" bottle of vodka shake it up and let it sit over night. (make sure the bottle is plastic). next day shake it some more then pull the head out of the bottle (Tweezers are your friend) then let it dry out for a few hours. now take your new wick and cut off an inch. torch the wick with a butane torch you want it to glow white and slowly run the torch down the length of your wick. now wet the wick with a drop of juice and thread the new wick into the coil. twisting the wick to compress the silica threads then install your flavor wicks if your heads use flavor wicks. you might need to center or adjust the coils with tweezers after you install the new wick. check the ohms, if the reading is good put the top tube back on then your done. if not you need to adjust the coils more.

this is the easiest way to totally restore a bottom coil head or top coils as well. the kanthal wire will eventually wear out and break. but i have been using the same coil for over 2 months using this method i described above.

if your liquids are too thick you can mix Distilled Water with the e-liquid. adding 1 drop per mL into tank before you fill it up. so i its a 2 mm tank 2 drops of Distilled Water and fill it the rest of the way up with your e-liquid and shake it.
1 drop per mL is a good starting point, add more as you see fit. once you find the right amount some simple math will tell you how much to add to a whole bottle of e-liquid. it will mute the flavor a bit so try to add as little as possible.

a Better system for high VG e-liquids would be a dripping atty. ready to vape DDAs (direct dripping atty) run a $3-$5 for a bridge-less 510
up to about $25 for the HH 357.

if this is something you will be doing a lot i would recommend researching into RDAs (rebuildable dripping atty) the Smok Tech mini octopus is a great starting point. its just not the most travel friendly rig. so your ProTank still has a place in your every day life. but you could use the mini octopus at home or at the office, just not well driving. you would need wick and wire and you MUST have a multi-meter or some way to check the ohms.. a decent meter runs around $15 USD and they last for years and years. a well made RDA build will give you loads of vapor and bring out flavors you didn't even know the e-liquid had.
in this build i run %90+ VG e-liquids with not problem what so ever http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cussion/498945-my-build-ego-octopus-mini.html

feel free to PM me if you have questions.

this place has good prices and fast shipping on wick and wire. Products - Lightning Vapes

 

[mwilson1007]

Thanks for the information! I have been considering rebuildable attys for a while, but they seem extremely complicated to get started in. I've never put together my own coil or anything like that before, so honestly I wouldn't even know what to buy to get started.

 

[Grimwald]

I use T2s which are basically the same as a Triton tank with slightly different threading. To dry burn, remove the white/gray plastic sleeve. Remove the top nipple, Remove the top/flavor wick. Now you can plainly see the coil. Screw the head back into the tank and screw the tank on a battery...then do the dry burn. I rinse the coil, let dry, and reassemble. Getting the plastic sleeve back on may require a touch of vg or something to help it slid in place.

You can use a 808 to 510 adapter or better yet an 808 to ego adapter (hard to find in stock) to use other tanks. Which one will depend on what threading you need.

 

[Completely Average]

For the Triton, if the wicks are gunked up and nasty tasting, clean the coil and wick like you normally do, and then gently pull on the wick until the gunked up part comes out of the coil. There are two wicks, so pull on from one side and pull the other from the opposite side. The wicks won't be quite even, but that really won't affect their functionality. As long as the wicks are still in the liquid it will work fine.

The, clean it again to remove the gunked up part and you're good to go. You can usually do this 2-3 times before you have to replace the coil.


Also, if you're REALLY careful, you can remove the thick O-ring on top and rewick the coil using some cotton. Just use a clean and sterile cotton ball to create the wick.

 

[Completely Average]

I use T2s which are basically the same as a Triton tank with slightly different threading. To dry burn, remove the white/gray plastic sleeve. Remove the top nipple, Remove the top/flavor wick.

There is no plastic sleeve. There is no nipple. The top of the coil has a thick and wide or O-ring (rubber sleeve if you prefer) that creates the seal with the drip tip. The O-ring can be removed to make replacing the wick easier, but it's also pretty easy to tear that o-ring up which basically ruins the coil.

 

[mwilson1007]

The problem with the pulling the wick out is that my coil will literally gunk up after half a days use. So, at most I'm still only getting about 2 days use per coil. T_T These coils are becoming the bane of my vaping experience.

 

[mwilson1007]

T2's are nothing like Triton tanks except in outside appearance.

There is no plastic sleeve. There is no nipple. The wicks go through holes in the middle of the coil, not over the top.

Here is a Triton coil:

Nah. The sleeve is the clear covering, and the nipple is the top metal part. I buy T2 coils for my triton tank. They're the exact same thing.

 

[happydave]

well
Smok Tech octopus mini is about $7
the decorative plinth is $3
the drip tip is around $3
spend at least $10 on wick and wire
multi meters run about $15
you can use the battery you currently have you just need to figure out the max amp rating for it... (i tried to look it up, halo does not say on there website but if you call customer service im sure someone will know just ask what the max amp rating is on that battery)

so your looking at around $40

here is the best part, one of the coils i showed you in http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cussion/498945-my-build-ego-octopus-mini.html lasts about 4 - 7 days of heavy use and cost around .25 per coil.
that about .04 USD per day for an awesome performing wick and coil. just takes some time and elbow grease.

there is a bit of a learning curve the first 5 or 10 coils you make will be pretty bad but after that you will get the hang of it, its not that hard. like i said the biggest thing is safety you dont want to draw to much power from the battery. if you do the battery may "vent" thats another way of saying explode...
so here is the basic electrical theory you will need to know to make safe coils on your own. (and then some)

Picture a garden hose in your mind. this hose represents the wire.
water flowing in the hose represents the flow of electrons
Voltage is like the water pressure
Amps is like the Speed the water is moving at
and Ohms is the resistance or back pressure caused by friction
as resistance decreases, amps will increase...
Watts is a unit of power Volts x Amps = Watts
it takes one volt to push one amp through one ohm of resistance.
electrons will always take the path of least resistance
there are 3 types of circuits, Series circuits, Parallel circuits and Series-Parallel circuits... adding parallel branches reduces over all circuit resistance.
(if you can memorize and understand this basic electrical theory you will know more about how electricity behaves than like %90 of the people on this planet)

so here is some real world example for you..
lets say the amp limit on your battery is 2.5 amps
and the voltage is 4.8 volts
you plug these 2 numbers into this calculator Ohm's Law Calculator
and it will tell you that your max resistance for your coil is 1.92 ohms now to make sure we are playing it safe, you would add about .2 ohms to that number so 2.1 ohms would be a safe resistance for your coil.

so you build the wick and coil and get it hooked up to the posts and tighten down the screws then space out the coils with tweezers. then check the ohms. when you hook the meter up the ohm reading will jump around bit for a few seconds then the reading SHOULD hold steady for more than 5 seconds. if the reading does not hold steady you have a loose connection or coils are moving around and touching one another well your trying to check your reading. if you get a steady reading but its very low then you have a short, like the coils are touching the posts or touching one another.

once you get the process down it takes about 10 minutes and produces such an awesome and inexpensive vaping experience.

 

[sherman_cj]

Thanks for the information! I have been considering rebuildable attys for a while, but they seem extremely complicated to get started in. I've never put together my own coil or anything like that before, so honestly I wouldn't even know what to buy to get started.

YouTube is a very good place to start to learn about building your own coils and what you will need. start by searching for people like grimgreen, trip rippers, and vapingwithtwisted420. all of these people have very good camera's and it is very easy to see what they are doing. Building coils is not as hard as it looks you will get the hang of it very quickly after building a few.

 

[Completely Average]

Nah. The sleeve is the clear covering, and the nipple is the top metal part. I buy T2 coils for my triton tank. They're the exact same thing.

The top metal part is called a Drip Tip. A nipple is something entirely different.

That coil has a nipple on top.

 

[AngiBe]

Nah. The sleeve is the clear covering, and the nipple is the top metal part. I buy T2 coils for my triton tank. They're the exact same thing.

Are they really the exact same thing? I'm using (and have used since I started vaping over 6 months ago) a Triton VV w/Triton tanks and vaping as we speak Boba's. I've had it in my tank going on 3 days (I switch out 5-8 flavors daily so never finish one tank fast) and mine is vaping like a champ...no gunking at all.

But, the difference is I'm using the Triton coils so maybe they are not exactly alike after all. Not sure, but that seems to be the only difference between yours gunking and mine isn't from what I can tell. But not sure cuz I've never substituted the T2 for the Triton coil. But all juices high in VG can gunk anything up.

Oh, and one of my other tank that's about 4 days old is Gorilla Juice both from AVEs. No gunking on that one either.

 

[Grimwald]

There is no plastic sleeve. There is no nipple. The top of the coil has a thick and wide or O-ring (rubber sleeve if you prefer) that creates the seal with the drip tip. The O-ring can be removed to make replacing the wick easier, but it's also pretty easy to tear that o-ring up which basically ruins the coil.

I was referring to the replaceable coil head on the Triton tank.

 

[mwilson1007]

Are they really the exact same thing? I'm using (and have used since I started vaping over 6 months ago) a Triton VV w/Triton tanks and vaping as we speak Boba's. I've had it in my tank going on 3 days (I switch out 5-8 flavors daily so never finish one tank fast) and mine is vaping like a champ...no gunking at all.

But, the difference is I'm using the Triton coils so maybe they are not exactly alike after all. Not sure, but that seems to be the only difference between yours gunking and mine isn't from what I can tell. But not sure cuz I've never substituted the T2 for the Triton coil. But all juices high in VG can gunk anything up.

Oh, and one of my other tank that's about 4 days old is Gorilla Juice both from AVEs. No gunking on that one either.

I just got the t2 coils this time around. I've bought halos coils plenty of times. Not a single difference besides price. what ohm rating do you buy your coils at?

 

[always9988]

Are they really the exact same thing? I'm using (and have used since I started vaping over 6 months ago) a Triton VV w/Triton tanks and vaping as we speak Boba's. I've had it in my tank going on 3 days (I switch out 5-8 flavors daily so never finish one tank fast) and mine is vaping like a champ...no gunking at all.

But, the difference is I'm using the Triton coils so maybe they are not exactly alike after all. Not sure, but that seems to be the only difference between yours gunking and mine isn't from what I can tell. But not sure cuz I've never substituted the T2 for the Triton coil. But all juices high in VG can gunk anything up.

Oh, and one of my other tank that's about 4 days old is Gorilla Juice both from AVEs. No gunking on that one either.

I bought the t2 heads to save some money and the wick doesn't work nearly as well. The coil and head assembly are exactly the same, but those wicks definitely aren't and don't wick well

 

[rutjunky]

Is gunning up an issue on all tanks?
Sorry if it's a dumb question. Only been vaping for A couple months.

 

[AngiBe]

Is gunning up an issue on all tanks?
Sorry if it's a dumb question. Only been vaping for A couple months.

With higher VG juices, ya pretty much I think. But some tanks will last longer than others.

 

[AngiBe]

I just got the t2 coils this time around. I've bought halos coils plenty of times. Not a single difference besides price. what ohm rating do you buy your coils at?

I get 2.2-2.4, 2.6-2.8 & 3.0-3.2 packs. I seem to use the 2.2-2.4 the most cuz I prefer warmer vapes.

 

[Grimwald]

T2 coils at vapingme are long wicks at $3.99 for a 5 pack. I use 1.8 ohm on mine. I think they work fine. I also have extra silica wick that I will use to replace the top/flavor wick when it gets too gunky or too frayed. I haven't attempted to recoil or rewick them because at 80 cents each, why bother.

 

[AngiBe]

T2 coils at vapingme are long wicks at $3.99 for a 5 pack. I use 1.8 ohm on mine. I think they work fine. I also have extra silica wick that I will use to replace the top/flavor wick when it gets too gunky or too frayed. I haven't attempted to recoil or rewick them because at 80 cents each, why bother.

True that and I heard trying to recoil them are a bear to do. I've just replaced a few of the flavor wicks w/SnC cotton to see if there's any flavor difference. If it doesn't work, I'll just stick silica back in.