Trouble with first VV mod - please help

[Swigger14]

I just picked up my first variable volt mod, this one from madvapes. I can't, however get it to work. Fully charged two ultrafire 14500 900 mah 3.7 v batteries, popped them in, but I am getting nothing. I am assuming I need to turn the dial, but I can only turn it 180-270 degrees, and have tried it at both ends of the spectrum and the middle. I am using a boge carto on it. Any ideas? I'm not getting any sounds or signs that it is working at all.

The switch is set to on, before someone asks.

Thanks.

 

[Nomoreash]

Those are pre-maid boxes and sometimes the battery doesn't make contact on the positive end with some of them I've used for builds. If you've got a multimeter then you can check the leads at the connector to see if it's getting power. If not then the first thing I'd recommend is rolling the battery around with your finger, sometimes this will help it make contact.

Also try a different atty/carto if you have one to make sure that's not the issue.

 

[oplholik]

I just picked up my first variable volt mod, this one from MadVapes. I can't, however get it to work. Fully charged two ultrafire 14500 900 mah 3.7 v batteries, popped them in, but I am getting nothing. I am assuming I need to turn the dial, but I can only turn it 180-270 degrees, and have tried it at both ends of the spectrum and the middle. I am using a boge carto on it. Any ideas? I'm not getting any sounds or signs that it is working at all.

The switch is set to on, before someone asks.

Thanks.

Did you try working the center pin on the carto battery end out a little? It may not be making contact.

 

[Swigger14]

Thanks, Nomoreash. I fiddled with the battery a bit and it seemed to do the trick.

 

[tj99959]

Good on ya. Now have some fun with it.

Point of reference; with the little flat lined up with the edge of the box, you are at approx. 4.5v
(that is about where 75% use their VV's.)

 

[Swigger14]

Thanks, tj. That's really helpful info - I wish they would note that. I've only just started using it, but already settled around that area. Are there any guidelines as to different juices at different voltages? For example, fruity juices at high, tobacco at low, etc.? Or does it depend too much on the person, carto type, etc and you just play around a bit?

Good on ya. Now have some fun with it.

Point of reference; with the little flat lined up with the edge of the box, you are at approx. 4.5v
(that is about where 75% use their VV's.)

 

[Iffy]

For example, fruity juices at high, tobacco at low, etc.? Or does it depend too much on the person, carto type, etc and you just play around a bit?

I would leans towards the second sentence. BUT, I've found that the lighter (fruits, etc.) jooses like a lower voltage and the heavier (dark, coffee, etc.) do well with the higher voltages.

Definitely 'play' with the voltage for each juice. I note on the bottle the approximate position of voltage adjustment that brings out the best flav.

 

[MickeyRat]

I have one of those. I don't use it a lot since I got my buzz pro. You might find that after a while it cuts out till you turn it of and back on. Then it'll do it again. That's not a problem with the mod. It's the protection circuits on the batteries. You might need to get some AW IMRs.

 

[Str8V8ping]

you should buy a digital multimeter . Not only to check where your problems lie at but to measure batt voltage expecially with batts in series . Also you can measure the voltage of the atty and mark it next to the pot for quick adjustment like shown below .

 

[tj99959]

You might find that after a while it cuts out till you turn it of and back on. Then it'll do it again.

That is actuall caused by the coil in the carto becomming to low a resistence. Caused by a cooked on layer of juice that has become a carbon (a conductor) Time for a new carto when they become like that.

 

[donnah]

That is actuall caused by the coil in the carto becomming to low a resistence. Caused by a cooked on layer of juice that has become a carbon (a conductor) Time for a new carto when they become like that.

How do you know this? Would a dry burn work? I ask because I'm having the same problem with my vv bottom feeder. After a few days use, an atty won't work with ultrafires or trustfires, it will cut off and I have to take a batt out and put it back in to get it to work again, but then it will only work for one "toot" and then it cuts off again. So I've been using the aw imr batts in it now. But I've been experimenting and cleaned and dry burned an atty that previously made it cut off and now it works. This is a hassle because it only takes a few days to make this happen and I want to get much more life out of my attys. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what is going on! This is happening mostly with my 901 attys.

 

[tj99959]

How do you know this? Would a dry burn work? I ask because I'm having the same problem with my vv bottom feeder. After a few days use, an atty won't work with ultrafires or trustfires, it will cut off and I have to take a batt out and put it back in to get it to work again, but then it will only work for one "toot" and then it cuts off again. So I've been using the aw imr batts in it now. But I've been experimenting and cleaned and dry burned an atty that previously made it cut off and now it works. This is a hassle because it only takes a few days to make this happen and I want to get much more life out of my attys. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what is going on! This is happening mostly with my 901 attys.

Reason I know that is because I got out an ohm meter to find out what the problem was. I was quite surprised when my 3ohm carto only measured 0.8ohms. At that low a resistence, of course it tripped the protection. With an atomizer a dry burn will either fix the problem or pop the atty. With a carto you can try the wire up through the center hole trick.

As for the root cause, wicking isn't keeping up with the atty/carto. Either thin the juice so that it wicks faster, or turn the voltage down a bit. With my setup/juice combination it was a problem @ 5v, but never happens @ 4.5v.

 

[MickeyRat]

Actually, I happen to have an ohm meter too. The phenomena you are talking about does occur. I've also burned an atty up doing a dry burn on it once it got that way. Made a pretty light for a second or so though. However, I have also seen that MV VV box have the battery protection circuits cut out when the atty measures in the neighborhood of 2.8 ohms and I was running 4.7 volts. The AW IMRs don't do that because they don't have protection circuits.

My guess is that there may be instances where some gunk gets in just the right spot for a brief period and causes the protection circuits to pop. The act of disturbing the atty to do the measurement removes it so you don't see it when you do the measurement. You don't get this behavior with the AWs because they burn it off. That's just a guess though. There are other possible explanations.

I can say that it's really irritating when it happens though. You take a hit. It works. Take another hit. It doesn't. Turn it off and back on and you get one more hit. Take the atty off and measure it, it's fine. Measure the voltage and it's fine. Put on a new atty and it works fine for a couple days. Then it happens again. It took me a while to try the AWs to solve the problem.

 

[Creniker]

Yeah a dryburn of the 901 will help. Just don't pop it and it should be good as new. Might have to rinse it a couple times in between dry burns.

 

[MickeyRat]

Once a week, I do a few dry burns and do what the guy in this video does with cartomizers. I use distilled water that I bring to a boil in the microwave though. I don't want mineral build up. The syringe doodad was $1.79 at Wal-Mart.

If you do it in a clean white bowl, you'll see the specs of carbon in the bowl. It's not a lot but, there's not a lot of room in an atty either.