Up Vape Creek Without an Atty =P

[AdariousMistdancer]

So, last night around 6 pm, the Saber Touch I'd been using began acting like the batteries were running out... so I took them out and put them in the charger. When I came back with them later, along with a new set of AW 16340s I'd received that day ... neither pair got any response out of it. The volt meter didn't even twitch. That left me and still leaves me without a working PV.

It was suggested to me to try using a usb cable as a power source but the only forum post I could find mentioned soldering, which I can't do....due to both the lack of an iron and due to not having steady enough hands for it anymore.

Having been used to 24mg juice for the past 3 weeks or so, you can imagine how I feel about now. I have a USB cord that I cut one end off of and bared the wires, pushed the shielding down to get at the wires and now have a red and black wire (+5v) with enough wire (about 1/2") exposed.

My question here is fairly straightforward. Using just the wires themselves, can I directly power an atty or a carto? Also, is it restricted only to a PC's usb, because I noticed the eGo chargers put out the exact same voltage/mah as the pc does and that it has a usb slot on the bottom of the charger? Just an idea or 2 I suppose, to work long enough until a solution, such as a riva kit, can be acquired and on the way.

Thanx.

 

[AttyPops]

Not without soldering them onto the atty connector. Maybe some else has an idea.

Also, you need a wall-wart (AC USB adapter) and 3.0 ohm atties. The computer, and probably the charger, can't supply enough amps, even if the voltage is 5 v. You'd want at least 2 amps.

Best solution... head to radio shack and get a button & enclosure, find someone that can solder for you. They sell AC adapters too. Or get a disposable at 7-11

 

[Steelrat]

My first advice is ease up a bit, relax and take it VERY easy. Let me explain this as simply as possible. There are 2 types of USB passthough devices (regardless of whether or not you purchase one or build one).

The first type is called "active". An active passthrough has an inline battery which both charges, while plugged in to the USB port, and powers the atomizer connector, allowing for vaping. It runs at the (fairly) standard voltage of 3.2-3.7 volts. An active passthrough is by far the BEST type of passthrough to use on a computer's USB port. The battery acts as a voltage "buffer" between the atomizer/cartomizer and the actual computer.

The second type of passthrough is called "passive". A passive passthough is a direct connection to a USB powered device. It typically is a 5.0 volt device. There are quite a few considerations when using a passthrough of this type. Firstly, and bear with me as I can get a bit technical, the passive unit has no "buffer", which means you are drawing current directly from the USB device into the atomizer or cartomizer. A computer's USB port MAY NOT supply enough power to properly use a passive passthrough and could very possibly FRY YOUR COMPUTER.

Most people have found that using a USB wall wart (a direct, plug into the wall USB charger) the best solution for passive type passthrough's. A USB wall wart can vary greatly in amperage output, from 350mah up to a full 2amps. The higher the output amperage, the better the use of a passive USB passthrough. Also, a POWERED USB hub is a suitable alternative in place of a USB 2amp wall wart.

I hope this helps you out in your time of need. Please be very careful when using a passive passthrough. Building them is very simple but replacing a whole computer motherboard can be very problematic.

Peace and Puffs

Steelrat

 

[cyberwolf]

... so I took them out and put them in the charger. When I came back with them later, along with a new set of AW 16340s I'd received that day ... neither pair got any response out of it.

Were you testing the batteries or the output from the Sabertouch with the batteries inserted? The decrease in power as opposed to an outright failure sounds like a odd way for a mod to stop working and I wonder if your battery charger may be failing. If the batteries have power, then that might be a better alternative for powering your atty temporarily, although you are still going to have problems with connection to the atomizer.

 

[AdariousMistdancer]

The batteries are fine, it's either the switch or the pcb or the wires inside the saber. A week prior the switch acted up a bit, being temperamental. It would flash the carto led other than when touched in certain places .. but that went away after a day or 2. The power isn't getting through the electronics. . but I tested the batteries for charge and they have it.

I suppose it's even possible the wires are toast inside it. Only way to find out is to send it in to get it fixed. For the mean time, however, I picked up a Trio just to hold in a pinch till the GLV arrives and the Saber can be sent in. I got the Trio because I could get it locally and it was an immediate solution.

I appreciate the responses and the assistance. For now, though, at least, the problem is solved.

 

[AttyPops]

lol. I started with a trio. It was my 1st e-cig from a smoke shop. If it's the same one.... any of your 510 stuff will fit on it... I liked the 510 style atties on the trio (I hated trio carts).

Good Luck!