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bewlay

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Apr 14, 2014
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wow this vaping lark is almost as addictive as nicotine...but way more fun and healthier too.

started off with a ce4 clearomiser and socialites battery 600mah, a friend gave me as a present, bought more clearomisers when that one died then a better battery, ego c 12000mah, using the first one as a back up battery, then learned how to clean, dry burn and change coils...thanks to all the postings and links on here.

now after much deliberation ive ordered a kanger protank 2 and spare coils..the coils arrived today...im shivering with anticipation for the protank.

im very much on the first step of the ladder, but loving it. i actually feel vaping is more satisfying than analogues.

what the best suggestion for my next upgrade, assuming i like the protank?
 

djsvapour

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Hi bewlay.

The Protank 2 is quite good. It is improved greatly with the airflow controller, which replaces the base.

I have one (only bought it recently, actually) and it leaked in under 24 hours, so I rebuilt it. Some people have no issues at all.

The most obvious upgrade after a big eGo battery and a PT2 is probably a VV/VW battery, or a mod.

If you can afford £20 and 3 weeks wait, a Kayfun clone from China would be awesome. :)

I am so pleased you got off the socialites, they are on my hit list for taking advantage of people who don't know the prices of e-cig kit.
 

bewlay

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The most obvious upgrade after a big eGo battery and a PT2 is probably a VV/VW battery, or a mod.
thats what i was thinking. mods seem to be much more expensive though, but i confess i don't really understand it all yet. the vv/vw option seems the next sensible step.

the socialites ego kit was ok, died a bit too quick for me , as a beginner though, didnt realise it was the coil which can be replaced, so bought a new pack of ce4`s which im still using...still using the socialites battery though, but its charge is poor compared to the ego c.so much to learn, but very grateful for the experience of the people on here
 

djsvapour

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thats what i was thinking. mods seem to be much more expensive though,

Mods can be expensive. The MVP v.2 (box mod, UK price £35) is somewhere between a "battery" and a "mod".
It's a mod that has a non-replaceable battery. Compared to a £20 VV/VW battery, it's a bargain and lasts 2+ times as long.

A SID or Vamo can be bought for £30-£40 or so, but you need separate batteries and a charger.

The best value a.t.m. has got to be a clone Nemesis from China. £12 mod, £5+£5 batteries (need 2 really), £12 charger. Things like Aerotank or Nautilus will look spot on on it too. :)
 

brickfollett

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personally, I went from an Ego, to an Ego twist, straight to a Provari. My jaw hit the floor the first time I saw the price of those things, but it was worth it.

Nowadays, the Provari is history (sadly). I sold it for a Reo and a Stingray. These are my two babies in their current setup



Reo with modified Trident V2, and Stingray with Atmomixani Dome clone. Both really doing it for me, but both are very advanced and require hours of research to be used and rebuilt safely. Especially the one on the right; steel mesh wicks are very touchy
 

bewlay

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quick update and a couple of quick questions, humour the newbie

got the protank yesterday, and after putting it together and a bit of menthol juice ive already tried, had a vape and WOW, massive difference in flavour, loved it, but seemed a bit too airy a draw. no matter, i can live with that, i thought. so vaped with it all day, and to my concern, the draw got tighter and tighter, till, i could barely suck on it, and was getting drops of the juice neat in my mouth, and lots of bubbling noises. Now my first instinct was to clean it out and start again, but that made no difference. So after a bit of fiddling about with it, ive discovered the best draw im getting with out the afore mentioned problems, is by having the tank screwed a fair bit less tightly onto the battery, im happy with this, getting good performance in terms of flavour and vapour, but curious as to if this set up might be detrimental to my kit in any way?

secondly, and unrelated..im curious as to what is the advantage of building one`s own coils, apart from being cheaper..i mean at £1.50 for a genuine kanger coil, lasting even just a week, its not a lot of outlay compared to smoking costs?
 

DingerCPA

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ill probably get to that option in time...seems a bit scary at the moment, but im getting braver

Belway, I thought rebuilding kanger heads was quite scary as well. You will need an ohmmeter or a mod that can read ohms to test before using. I'm about 2 weeks into rebuilding and cussing myself I didn't start sooner. Heck, if I can do this, you should be able to. The flavor change from stock coils is fabulous.

Cheers

Sent from.... ooh look! Something shiny!!!
 

chapeltown

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+1 to Dinger ' s statement. You don't realize til you try it....Cotton tastes so much better than silica.

On an semi unrelated note, I have one protank that seems to be having a huge airflow problem too, regardless of whether it is a stock coil or rebuilt. So I will be looking for your answer too.... If I find the answer before I see it posted here, I will repost here for you. Good luck and welcome to ecf!

from my galaxy s4
 

Lurch

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From my limited experience, it sounds like your ProTank is flooding. Unscrew the bottom, as if you were going to fill it then unscrew the chimney that sticks up (that's the coil section). Put a paper towel over each end and blow through the chimney. That will clear any fluid in the chimney.

This sometimes is caused by drawing too hard and pulling in too much fluid. With the e-cig your draw is typically much easier and longer than you would draw with a cigarette.

Hope that helps some and you find the answer. I am sure some other, more experienced folks will be along soon to provide more information.

Good luck and enjoy!
 

EBates

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For air flow issues I recommend replacing the stock Protank1 or Protank2 base with the Aerotank AFC. Most vape shops sell them 5-7 dollars. They eliminate the juice leak on to your battery and allow variable air flow control. I use them on all of my PT and Puritanks.
For flooding (gurgling, Juice in the mouth) long slow draws. The PT and all of the BCC tanks seem to have a problem with temperature changes. Going from a warm to a cool place seems to cause mine to flood.
To clear flooding I use the sling the tank method:
wrap the tank in a parer towel, sling the tank toward the ground (drip tip pointed to the ground), Or remove the tank wrap with a paper towel and blow through the drip tip. Either method works.
 

DingerCPA

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quick update and a couple of quick questions, humour the newbie

secondly, and unrelated..im curious as to what is the advantage of building one`s own coils, apart from being cheaper..i mean at £1.50 for a genuine kanger coil, lasting even just a week, its not a lot of outlay compared to smoking costs?

I'm enough of a geek that I had to try rebuilding. It's actually quite fun (if you, too, are a geek!) Plus, I'm using 30g kanthal, instead of the stock 32g (I'm pretty sure that's what it is). I think it has less tendency to burn the juice, and I get more control of what resistance (I dictate the number of wraps in the coil)

But, you are correct £1.50 a stock head isn't terrible. I've probably dropped a total of $60 on heads since I've started, but now, $6.25 for a 100 ft roll of kanthal and $1 for a bag of 100 cotton balls - I shouldn't need to spend any more (unless I need to get replacement insulators.)

It's all part of the "hobby" aspect for me. :)

Cheers
 

bewlay

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Apr 14, 2014
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Lurch appreciate your input. A lot of people have trouble with that in the beginning..

It is definitely not my problem, but I know it is possibility for the OP

from my galaxy s4

not my problem here either Lurch, i learned to slow draw very early, thank goodness. thanks for the suggestion though. i started another thread on this and the general consensus of advice im getting is to get an airflow controller for the pt, which has also been suggested on here! love this forum so far, some fantastic advice!
 
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