Upgrades
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RBAs and MVPs can go together well... as long as you bear in mind that the MVP2 has a 3 amp output limiter, and will not provide balanced current output for resistances below 1/3Ω+/-.
If everything I just said is a bit confusing... then it's off to Ohm's Law school for you. Start by clicking on my second sig line hyperlink. Read the article, and all linked articles within.
Cheers
If everything I just said is a bit confusing... then it's off to Ohm's Law school for you. Start by clicking on my second sig line hyperlink. Read the article, and all linked articles within.
Cheers
The MVP is an excellent device with variable voltage and wattage along with the large 2600mah battery. I have one myself and am loving the device. It is sturdy and I've used it to charge my phone a couple times when it ran out of power.
I've had mine for about 4 months and have no complaints.
I've had mine for about 4 months and have no complaints.
The mvp is the most commonly advised upgrade for people on the new side to vaping. Rebuilding is fun and worth while and should be well understood before attempting.
Why do you want to upgrade? What is it about your current setup that leaves you unsatisfied? If its battery life, definitely, the MVP is the way to go.
My progression was:
Mod / Tank
iTaste VV3.0 / iClear 16s
iTaste MVP2.0 / iClear 30
iTaste MVP2.0 / Aspire Nautilus
Nemesis Clone / 3D Dripper
Nemesis Clone / Trident Dripper
Black Copper Stingray Clone / Kayfun Lite+
Nemesis Clone / Stillare Dripper
Right now, I'm pretty happy with my setups - the Stingray with Kayfun for driving and the Nemesis with Stillare for lounging. Keep in mind though that the jump from interchangeable coils to building your own coils has a pretty drastic price increase in terms of initial investment.
My progression was:
Mod / Tank
iTaste VV3.0 / iClear 16s
iTaste MVP2.0 / iClear 30
iTaste MVP2.0 / Aspire Nautilus
Nemesis Clone / 3D Dripper
Nemesis Clone / Trident Dripper
Black Copper Stingray Clone / Kayfun Lite+
Nemesis Clone / Stillare Dripper
Right now, I'm pretty happy with my setups - the Stingray with Kayfun for driving and the Nemesis with Stillare for lounging. Keep in mind though that the jump from interchangeable coils to building your own coils has a pretty drastic price increase in terms of initial investment.
Greetings, welcome to the forum.
By 'rebuildable mod' do you mean Mech Mod or RBA (rebuildable topper)?
A mech mod would mean also having to buy batteries, a charger and a multimeter; getting an MVP is much simpler and should give you a great vape.
Lots of vapers (myself included) have regulated mods and mech mods, but starting with the regulated mod is a lot simpler.
-- Glenn
By 'rebuildable mod' do you mean Mech Mod or RBA (rebuildable topper)?
A mech mod would mean also having to buy batteries, a charger and a multimeter; getting an MVP is much simpler and should give you a great vape.
Lots of vapers (myself included) have regulated mods and mech mods, but starting with the regulated mod is a lot simpler.
-- Glenn
I USED to really like the MVP.
But with the new DNA30 clones that are out now, it's pretty much obsolete. The CANA DNA30 clone is also a similar sized box mod, has the USB charging, but can go up to 30 watts instead of the 11 watt limit of the MVP and only costs a few dollars more. Toss in a 20A, 3100 mAh battery and you're all set.
But with the new DNA30 clones that are out now, it's pretty much obsolete. The CANA DNA30 clone is also a similar sized box mod, has the USB charging, but can go up to 30 watts instead of the 11 watt limit of the MVP and only costs a few dollars more. Toss in a 20A, 3100 mAh battery and you're all set.
I have an MVP (well, 2 actually) and a couple VV3s. I do like them - I'm not cloud-chasing (yet?). I'm content for now with them ($40 for the MVP or $25 for the VV3 @ 101Vapes.com) I may treat myself later this year with something bigger and badder. It all depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Me, I quit smoking 2-1/2 months ago. That's the ultimate win in my book. You - sky's the limit.
Happy hunting!
Happy hunting!
Are there any real reviews out on the clones yet? I've only seen one and one of the issues was that ohms didn't read properly.
Sooner or later, you'll have both anyway. For now, an MVP is a logical 1st step up, with an RBA topper like a Kayfun. No chargers, spare batteries, sub-ohming, etc. The charger cable comes with the MVP and recharges it in 2.5 hours, and lasts for about 30-50 hours. It also takes any 510/EGO topper.
That said, I know my MVP will die someday and it will run me $30-$40 to get a new one. My med mod of choice will last forever and the batteries are cheap to replace.
Also that center pin on the MVP is a pest, but you can deal with that.
That said, I know my MVP will die someday and it will run me $30-$40 to get a new one. My med mod of choice will last forever and the batteries are cheap to replace.
Also that center pin on the MVP is a pest, but you can deal with that.
Kayfun and vv2 (new version) can't build under 1.2 ohms but I'm fine with that and I like the vamo because I can always have spare batteries on hand and I have the single or dual battery option with the 18350's.
I've heard a couple things about the ohm reading being off so far. I think they're still too new generally speaking.
Just rebuilt a mini Protank 1, filled it up with RY4 and stuck it on an MVP. Upgrades are all well and good, but the first upgrade is to turn those little Protanks into proper vaping equipment! 
For a first step up from eGo's, I'd go with the MVP 2. It's priced right at $40, and it's a solid device, regardless of battery pin issues. Some of the newer ones from the Energy or Shine line seem to suffer less from the battery pin issue, and even if they do it's a simple fix. I've had my MVP 2 in black for around 7 months without any noticeable battery life drop. Also, I've banged it around quite a bit and it's survived. It's a handy device for rebuilding as well, since it'll check the ohms and you can fire the coils for that first time to burn off any impurities without having to put the topper you're working on onto another device. Further, it's a good teacher for learning ohms law, and how watts, volts, and resistance is all related.
Mechanical mods should be reserved for when you know a bit about ohms law and battery safety. If you DO go that route though, try and build your coils at above 1 ohm to start with, until you understand all of the information. Also, get yourself an ohm meter and a multimeter to check resistance of the coil and to check remaining battery life. An unregulated (no chip) mod will fire anything, even a short, so I recommend you be careful. Draining the battery to far is not only not good for the battery, it could create a dangerous situation. Stick with highly regarded batteries, like the AW IMR batteries or the Sony VTC 4 or 5, and don't try and go below 1 ohm of resistance when using the smallest 18350 size batteries.
For rebuilding, the easiest toppers are two or three post drippers or the Kayfun style tanks in my opinion. The easiest coils to make are microcoils with cotton wick. There are several videos on youtube that will show you how. Three post drippers can handle both single or dual coils, but I recommend you stick to single coils to start with. Drippers like the Nimbus or Igo W have holes drilled into the positive and negative posts for you to stick the ends of the kanthal into. I find this to be easier to deal with then wrapping posts with it and screwing down the screws. The lower the gauge of the kanthal, the more wraps you'll need to reach your target resistance. The larger the gauge, the less wraps. This is largely a matter of preference. The lower the gauge, the longer it takes for the coils to heat as well. There's a debate on whether sterile cotton or organic cotton is better. Either way, it's best to boil cotton in distilled water first.
Mechanical mods should be reserved for when you know a bit about ohms law and battery safety. If you DO go that route though, try and build your coils at above 1 ohm to start with, until you understand all of the information. Also, get yourself an ohm meter and a multimeter to check resistance of the coil and to check remaining battery life. An unregulated (no chip) mod will fire anything, even a short, so I recommend you be careful. Draining the battery to far is not only not good for the battery, it could create a dangerous situation. Stick with highly regarded batteries, like the AW IMR batteries or the Sony VTC 4 or 5, and don't try and go below 1 ohm of resistance when using the smallest 18350 size batteries.
For rebuilding, the easiest toppers are two or three post drippers or the Kayfun style tanks in my opinion. The easiest coils to make are microcoils with cotton wick. There are several videos on youtube that will show you how. Three post drippers can handle both single or dual coils, but I recommend you stick to single coils to start with. Drippers like the Nimbus or Igo W have holes drilled into the positive and negative posts for you to stick the ends of the kanthal into. I find this to be easier to deal with then wrapping posts with it and screwing down the screws. The lower the gauge of the kanthal, the more wraps you'll need to reach your target resistance. The larger the gauge, the less wraps. This is largely a matter of preference. The lower the gauge, the longer it takes for the coils to heat as well. There's a debate on whether sterile cotton or organic cotton is better. Either way, it's best to boil cotton in distilled water first.
For me I started the opposite way, I started with ego's then after a few weeks got a silver bullet and carto tank. Then I got the MVP its a great vape for sure, but my battery died after about 6months of vaping and I can set it 5volts but it will really only put out about 3.5ish I still use it here and there though as a back up. its good for the money but won't last very long unless you can put yourself a new battery in there.
I agree with most here. The MVP is a decent, cheap and likely soon to be replaced battery but if you can pick one up for 40 doll hairs, it does work well while it works.
I bought the Kayfun first but I also got the IGO-W, which is a dripper. The IGO is easier to build on, easier to figure out the wicking for it and you don't have to drain a tank if you mess up.........and it can be had pretty cheap.
Save the more advanced stuff for when you figure out what you want and what you are doing and then you can make a smart purchase.
I bought the Kayfun first but I also got the IGO-W, which is a dripper. The IGO is easier to build on, easier to figure out the wicking for it and you don't have to drain a tank if you mess up.........and it can be had pretty cheap.
Save the more advanced stuff for when you figure out what you want and what you are doing and then you can make a smart purchase.
Lots of members here have been getting them and giving their impressions, measurements, and electronics testing results:
Skip to about page 350 in this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ttack-hana-modz-clone-lets-wait-together.html
And also check the last 5 pages or so of this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...t-list-newer-nicer-hana-mod-clone-thread.html
Personally I trust some of the members here a lot more than reviewers who receive their products for free. These guys have no reason to hide a problem. They've also pointed out flaws with some of the "proper" reviews out now, specifically Rip Trippers wad of misinformation.
Good or bad reviews aside, going from an Ego battery to a Hana Clone vs and MVP may be over-kill without taking any of the OP's motivations into consideration.
Current battery cost of OP - $13, MVP (with IClear kit) $40, Cheapest Hana clone I have seen short of Fasttech, $80.
Might be better to try to the MVP and a little better topper of choice.
Respectfully.
Current battery cost of OP - $13, MVP (with IClear kit) $40, Cheapest Hana clone I have seen short of Fasttech, $80.
Might be better to try to the MVP and a little better topper of choice.
Respectfully.
Cana Modz Clone
$68.99.
Toss in a $10 Sony VTC5 battery and you're all set.
NOTHING is overkill. Everything is just limited to different degrees. The MVP is much more limited, and in the long term is more expensive. No matter how you look at it the MVP is disposable. The battery isn't replacable and neither are the electronics. If it wears out, the battery stops charging, or it breaks you throw it away.
And then there is that nasty point about 2 weeks into building RBAs where you suddenly realize that 11 watts isn't enough to power your 1.2 ohm coil properly.
So, you're spending $40+ knowing that you're going to have to buy another mod to replace it probably within the next month or two.
Or you can buy a Hana clone for $30 more. You'll get an extra 19 watts of vaping power, you have replacable batteries, and even if the chip goes bad you can replace that too. You can even replace it with a real Evolv DNA30 chip for less than $50 and have a bona fide DNA30 device for less than $120 if you wanted.
Get the RBA after he has the proper mod to power it. Then he can do what he wants with the RBA and not have to worry about the limitations of his mod.
$68.99.
Toss in a $10 Sony VTC5 battery and you're all set.
NOTHING is overkill. Everything is just limited to different degrees. The MVP is much more limited, and in the long term is more expensive. No matter how you look at it the MVP is disposable. The battery isn't replacable and neither are the electronics. If it wears out, the battery stops charging, or it breaks you throw it away.
And then there is that nasty point about 2 weeks into building RBAs where you suddenly realize that 11 watts isn't enough to power your 1.2 ohm coil properly.
So, you're spending $40+ knowing that you're going to have to buy another mod to replace it probably within the next month or two.
Or you can buy a Hana clone for $30 more. You'll get an extra 19 watts of vaping power, you have replacable batteries, and even if the chip goes bad you can replace that too. You can even replace it with a real Evolv DNA30 chip for less than $50 and have a bona fide DNA30 device for less than $120 if you wanted.
Get the RBA after he has the proper mod to power it. Then he can do what he wants with the RBA and not have to worry about the limitations of his mod.
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