UVO Systems Aqua ....I want this badboy

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vapdivrr

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so far using dual coils in my aqua I have tried a few different ways to attach the leads to the posts. one way is to connect the leads of both coils to the same point on the posts, another way is to connect all 4 leads to their own section of the posts and the last way I have done is to connect 2 leads (one from each coil) to the same point on the pos post but on the neg post connect the other 2 leads to a different part of the post. I prefer the latter, it just seems to be the easiest way for me.
 

dice57

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How many have tried vertical coils in their aqua? How does it vape?

Feel that Vertical coils are ideal for the Aqua. Used a horizontal when I first received the Aqua, but after looking at the build deck, it told me it was made for vertical, and that's all I've used since. Really like the Vertical build on this rba, vapes fantastic. But everyone has their preference, Have had the same build on the Aqua for over a month now, about ready to build it with dual twisted 28 AWG so that it will be a dual vertical quad coil, or something like that. lmao. Shooting for .3 ohm build.
 

mikepetro

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Feel that Vertical coils are ideal for the Aqua. Used a horizontal when I first received the Aqua, but after looking at the build deck, it told me it was made for vertical, and that's all I've used since. Really like the Vertical build on this rba, vapes fantastic. But everyone has their preference, Have had the same build on the Aqua for over a month now, about ready to build it with dual twisted 28 AWG so that it will be a dual vertical quad coil, or something like that. lmao. Shooting for .3 ohm build.

Got any pics? I have an Aqua I need to build up. It still has a machine oil smell so I need to clean it first, just havent had time to get to it yet.
 

dice57

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Mike, knew somebody would ask, so I took a couple pic's on my new build. My basic build style is documented back on like page 10 or so, and in the Vcore thread. Hear is my latest build using a double strand twisted 28 AWG Kanthal, with a 10/11 wrap around a 18 gauge blunt tip needle, which fits perfectly into the air intake hole for mounting. Came out to .24 ohms, then once test fired and pulsed and wicked measured .32 ohms. Using hemp fiber for wick, with a loose twisted strand around coils so that it is slightly fluffy, and tighter twisted and double packed into the juice channels. If that makes sense, but knowing your experience with hemp, I am sure you probably followed that ok. lmao



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I do use the opposing juice channels for each single strand of wick, so that when wrapping around the outside of the coil, the strand going under the top legs of the coil, lock in the strand that slides into between the posts without top legs attached. Works great for me, have been using this method for a couple months now. The pic below demonstrates how I wick it, but don't use that much wick anymore, it was my first Vertical build on the Aqua.


noxxjFB.jpg
 

i_L1fe

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dwcraig1

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Woot. No longer a ECF newb and can post.

Recently picked up a Hcigar Aqua and haven't had a great experience thus far. Believe it to be a airflow issue.

Discussed in the newb section here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/514501-hcigar-aqua-vaper-flav-airflow.html

If you have any ideas or could help me identify the air hole sizes on a genuine aqua I'd appreciate it.

Thanks! :vapor:
See this post, I believe the OP meant "plastic piece" not "practice piece.
Also others have found metal burrs blocking the air channels.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ned-aqua-has-been-cloned-25.html#post11842551
 

Skauth

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Having the WORST time filling this with no leaking. Closest I came was, the method here of turning it upside down and leaving the deck on the mod but it gets my tip all juicy and is not easy.

What's the technical best way to top fill this thing?

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

I don't know about technicality, but I tighten the tank and chimney all the way down and remove the fill cap (carefully as it can partially loosen the chimney) . Fill to capacity. Doublecheck that chimney remains tightened. Partially thread fill cap back in and invert the atomizer. Slowly alternate between loosening the tank (airholes up!) and tightening the fill cap to make that magic negative pressure thing happen. Reorient the atty and attach to an appropriately boss mod. Voila, she vapes, she leaks not.

Worthy of note that I had horrible leaking issues until a YT vid turned me
on to this technique. I don't remember which one.
 

MrOcelot

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I close the afc and flow control. Remove the top and fill. Catch a couple threads and flip it upside down. While upside down before I flip it I open the afc. I set it down for a couple minutes inside down to let any juice that got in the chamber out. Then I close the afc and flip right side up. You can hear the vacuum set. After it settles to the bottom open up the airflow and vape away. This has worked for me the last few times I used it.
 

vapdivrr

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Having the WORST time filling this with no leaking. Closest I came was the method here of turning it upside down and leaving the deck on the mod but it gets my tip all juicy and is not easy.

What's the technical best way to top fill this thing?

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

have had the aqua for a couple of months now and do find the best way is the upside down method. the only way juice will get into the drip tip is if your getting juice into the chimney when you fill. if filling in the upside down method try not to get any in the chimney. the only other thing I can think of is your chimney top is not seated into the top cap correctly, this would enable juice to leak onto the sides of your drip tip. this upside down method also allowes for over 3mls of juice into the tank which is a great plus. I used to add juice the traditional way and always had the device gurgle for like the first 5 pulls or more, this used to annoy me but with the upside down method no gurgles. also you don't need to worry about any juice controls being opened or closed, or inverting. I just turn the device upside down and unscrew the bottom, you don't need to worry about the juice control at all, it doesn't matter if its half way open or all the way open. now its upside down I hold in my left hand the top cap (which is now on the bottom) with my right hand I unscrew the bottom threads until it comes off, I then put aside the bottom deck section and fill the tank all the way to the chimney edge, I then re install bottom section. the issue can be that your moving the chimney top portion after you take off the bottom portion. as long as you hold the threaded portion of the top cap and not the chimney top it should move and should remain sealed. anyways try the traditional method again but if you re try the inverted method once agin maybe these tips can help
 

Skauth

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Only had the Aqua for a couple days and flooding is making me angry. When its working its working really well. Super warm and super flavorful. Then out of no where vapor seems to dissipate quickly, production slows to a crawl and gurgling has started. .... Trial and error I guess.

One thing I have noticed is that the chimney can get loosened when removing the fill cap. Sometimes this doesn't cause it to flood immediately, but rather a little later. Now I always check that it is still firmly threaded down after filling, and I have had a lot less flooding and gurgling.
 

ianmcconnell

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Nov 11, 2013
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Houston, TX
Help Please.

I just received my Aqua yesterday and was planning on using it with my Itaste SVD. I wrapped couple of coils (only took me 5 hrs to attach to the posts.....lol) and was ready to blast this bad boy but to my dismay it did not make the coils glow nice and red like i have seen on the videos I have watched.

The coils were 2.6 ohm each give me a total resistance of 1.3 ohms which was measured on the internal SVD ohm meter.

Is the SVD just not powerful enough at 15W? I also tried it in Volt mode at 6 Volts with the same disappointing results :?:.

I am vaping it right now with a single 1.3 ohm coil and it is an improvement on my Protank.

Do I need to by another battery type?

Do I need a mech. mod?

Please set me on the right path.

Thanks
 

Skauth

Moved On
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Jun 7, 2013
200
98
Austin, Texas
Help Please.

I just received my Aqua yesterday and was planning on using it with my Itaste SVD. I wrapped couple of coils (only took me 5 hrs to attach to the posts.....lol) and was ready to blast this bad boy but to my dismay it did not make the coils glow nice and red like i have seen on the videos I have watched.

The coils were 2.6 ohm each give me a total resistance of 1.3 ohms which was measured on the internal SVD ohm meter.

Is the SVD just not powerful enough at 15W? I also tried it in Volt mode at 6 Volts with the same disappointing results :?:.

I am vaping it right now with a single 1.3 ohm coil and it is an improvement on my Protank.

Do I need to by another battery type?

Do I need a mech. mod?

Please set me on the right path.

Thanks

This is definitely solvable, but people will need a little more info to figure it out as there are a lot of variables that can yield problems like this.

What type of battery are you using? What size? Is it fully charged or at all depleted? Even in a VV mod this makes a difference.

How did you make the coils - are they spaced or compressed? What type of wire and how many wraps for each coil?

When you fire it, what kind of action are you seeing on the coils? Do they glow at all? Does one glow more than the other? Do the 'legs' of the coil glow at all?

Also make sure your coils do not touch the deck or posts, or the chimney when assembled. If they do the deck etc will conduct part of your voltage and rob heat from your coils. If you feel the deck getting pretty hot after several fires then this is happening.

Lastly, yes, a good mech and battery can push more wattage than any VV mod. But you shouldn't NEED one to get some serious action from the Aqua.
 
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