Vape experience differs from device to device???

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Garemlin

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I'm sure this gets down to the electronics of it all. Which gets a little technical for me. But why is it that my vape experience changes from device to device.

Example:
I have my 1.4Ω built Lemo on my Vaporshark rDNA 30 at 14w and it is fine. I put the same Lemo on my ipv Mini 30w and I have to crank it down to 12w in order to not have an off taste.

Thoughts???
 

BlewMyFaceUp

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tc1

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I'm sure this gets down to the electronics of it all. Which gets a little technical for me. But why is it that my vape experience changes from device to device.

Example:
I have my 1.4Ω built Lemo on my Vaporshark rDNA 30 at 14w and it is fine. I put the same Lemo on my IPV Mini 30w and I have to crank it down to 12w in order to not have an off taste.

Thoughts???


The IPV Mini's 130 chip is probably the least accurate of all the chips in the IPV line. Your mini is hitting around 2 watts higher than it should be. Not a huge deal really, just adjust the settings on the IPV Mini accordingly.
 

crxess

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The 'mini's in general have been criticized for having some pretty rough (read: cheap) PWM electronics going on. Seems they kind of went in the wrong direction with this one. You aren't the only person who has noticed.

Op didn't say anything about running the Mini in PWM mode. The IPV van run DC-DC down to battery level.
a) Verify Ohm reading on each device - calculation is done from there, not what you may have measured during the build.
b) Check each devices effeciency. This may have an effect on actual output.
c)IPV Mini does a Ramped firing sequence. Roughly .8 seconds at 1v higher. (Think quick coil warm up):)

The obvious answer is no two makers will build their devices exactly the same. They can all be adjusted to taste.

The IPV Mini's 130 chip is probably the least accurate of all the chips in the IPV line. Your mini is hitting around 2 watts higher than it should be. Not a huge deal really, just adjust the settings on the IPV Mini accordingly.

An assumption and an incorrect one at that.
Ohm reading variance from TRUE will dictate whatever output variance there may or may not be. Although a .5ohm reading .6ohm would run to high, most IPV mini read .1 low and loose output slightly. Also, the higher the coil build the less the difference in output.
 
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HDMontana

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I got the Cloupor mini 30 and then the Sigelei mini 30. Was vaping my Kayfun V4's at 18 watts with the Cloupor. 1.3 ohm coils. When I got the Sigelei, I put the same setup on. I had to turn it down to 15 watts. I swear the Sigelei was hitting harder. Was feeling the effects of chain vaping it at 18 watts that I didn't get from the Cloupor. Could be just in my head though, but I have kept the Sigelei set 15 watts.

HD
 

crxess

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I got the Cloupor mini 30 and then the Sigelei mini 30. Was vaping my Kayfun V4's at 18 watts with the Cloupor. 1.3 ohm coils. When I got the Sigelei, I put the same setup on. I had to turn it down to 15 watts. I swear the Sigelei was hitting harder. Was feeling the effects of chain vaping it at 18 watts that I didn't get from the Cloupor. Could be just in my head though, but I have kept the Sigelei set 15 watts.

HD

This would surprise me. I own (2) Cloupor mini's and (2) IPV mini's. The Cloupors are more powerful at matched readings than the IPV's
Now, the Sigelei mini is running the SX130 chip, same as the IPV mini's.

Anyone claiming Sigelei mini is functionally superior to IPV mini or vice verse is fooling themselves.:)
I prefer IPV for its durable build, but that is just my choice.
 

HDMontana

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This would surprise me. I own (2) Cloupor mini's and (2) IPV mini's. The Cloupors are more powerful at matched readings than the IPV's
Now, the Sigelei mini is running the SX130 chip, same as the IPV mini's.

Anyone claiming Sigelei mini is functionally superior to IPV mini or vice verse is fooling themselves.:)
I prefer IPV for its durable build, but that is just my choice.
I wasn't sure what to think of it either. It was also the first day I got my Sigelei. Maybe I was just hitting it more. Not sure, but the Sigelei is performing well at 15 watts, so I have left it there.

HD
 

tc1

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An assumption and an incorrect one at that.
Ohm reading variance from TRUE will dictate whatever output variance there may or may not be. Although a .5ohm reading .6ohm would run to high, most IPV mini read .1 low and loose output slightly. Also, the higher the coil build the less the difference in output.


All I know is that I've read several tests where the IPVMini outputs 2 watts higher/lower than it's wattage setting. Which by all accounts would make it one of, if not the least accurate YiHi chips in their current generation. That inaccuracy however is by no means horrible which is why I stated it's no big deal.

The OP stated his DNA device was hitting fine at 14 watts while he had to go down to 12 watts on his IPV Mini to get the same vape. To me, this would again suggest the 2 watt inaccuracy of the chipset (as the DNA board is nearly dead accurate). The 300 series of chips by YiHi seem to be on par with the DNA chips.

And then of course you have the Provari chipset which is flat out perfectly accurate (but only goes to 20 watts with amp limits).
Frankly just about every popular chip out there right now is perfectly acceptable and "accurate enough". Especially in comparison to just a year ago.

For those experiencing the 2 watt "bump" or "dip"... just compensate and you're good to go.
 
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tc1

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So what are the ideal conditions for using DC-DC over PWM and vise-versa??

PWM will allow you to somewhat step down. So you'll be able to use lower resistances at lower wattages. The IPV Mini will actually kick in DC-DC once it is able to regulate at or above the batteries current voltage.

Buck (step down) takes the battery voltage and LOWERS it while Boost takes the current battery voltage and INCREASES it.

If you're running a 1.4 ohm build at 12 watts, the IPV mini is going to properly regulate DC-DC and step down is not required, rather boost. (You need 4 volts to run a 1.4ohm at 12 watts) You're good to go.
 
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Garemlin

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PWM will allow you to somewhat step down. So you'll be able to use lower resistances at lower wattages. The IPV Mini will actually kick in DC-DC once it is able to regulate at or above the batteries current voltage.

Buck (step down) takes the battery voltage and LOWERS it while Boost takes the current battery voltage and INCREASES it.

If you're running a 1.4 ohm build at 12 watts, the IPV mini is going to properly regulate DC-DC and step down is not required, rather boost. (You need 4 volts to run a 1.4ohm at 12 watts) You're good to go.

Ok so most of my vaping is below 15w and builds range from 1.3Ω - 1.7Ω. it is best to keep it in PWM then??? Now on the occasion that I do drip it is usually around 22w. DC-DC then???
 
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