Vaping Over 3.7 Volts

[Zaxx]

I'm finally turning a corner in my vaping career. I'm starting to move more towards PV's that don't look like a cig. I do still like the cig types, especially when I'm playing poker and want something hanging out of my mouth. However, for a primary device, my priorities have changed.

I do have the Janty Stick, and like it very much. It produces good vapor, good hit, and the flavor is ok. It's also the most convenient PV I've had yet.

I have been looking at alot of threads on other models as well, and noticed alot of people are now preferring PV's at 4.0 and higher.

My question is, does the vaping "experience" really change that much?

Also, flavor is a biggie for me. Do the higher powered PV's still maintain the flavor or does it fry the juice? I still like using a cart, how do carts wrok with the higher powered PV's?

 

[Majestic]

II have been looking at alot of threads on other models as well, and noticed alot of people are now preferring PV's at 4.0 and higher.

My question is, does the vaping "experience" really change that much?

Also, flavor is a biggie for me. Do the higher powered PV's still maintain the flavor or does it fry the juice? I still like using a cart, how do carts wrok with the higher powered PV's?

I'm a cart vapor as well and do the majority of my vaping with a dual 4.6/5.2 voltage manual Pass Through. Although the 5.2 volts produces a cloud of vapor, I've found that it's a juice hog and that the flavor to me seems a bit watery tasting. Kind of like you're sucking on steam. I also noticed that unless the cart is really juiced up, the flavor can taste a bit burnt. Don't know if this is related to the crud burning off the coil or the cart filler getting a little too warm. The 5.2v experience maybe entirely different dripping, but I'm not a dripper.

The 4.6v vape to me produces the best balance of flavor and vapor without the need to constantly refill. Occasionally I will kick it up to the 5.2v if I hear the atty starting to gurgle, but otherwise I've been staying at 4.6v. I also experienced a couple of atomizers going cold for no reason at the 5.2v setting so I'm backing down on the voltage to see if that makes a difference in atty life.

 

[Zaxx]

Thanks for the input. I'm really leaning towards buying on one the higher powered devices, and it's a fairly sizable investment for me. I'm just trying to find out as much as possible before punching the "order now" button...

 

[wv2win]

I've had the Screwdriver for about 3 months and could not be happier with the flavor, throat hit and long battery life. It uses the 901 atty so you can get them from many suppliers. The battery life is 7-8 hours and the batteries cost $2 instead of $20. The flavor, to me, is better than what I experienced with my 901. I'm hoping the Prodigy is just as good.

 

[dumwaldo]

Zaxx,

the PV's that are supposed to be running at 3.7v actually run higher than that. A fully charged 3.7v battery actually puts out 4.2v of power so without even knowing it you have been vaping at over 4v already.

I have been getting into building my own mods so I picked up a multimeter and have been measuring the charge levels of batteries with it and 10440/10430 batteries charge to 4.2v every time.

DW

 

[Zaxx]

Zaxx,

the PV's that are supposed to be running at 3.7v actually run higher than that. A fully charged 3.7v battery actually puts out 4.2v of power so without even knowing it you have been vaping at over 4v already.

I have been getting into building my own mods so I picked up a multimeter and have been measuring the charge levels of batteries with it and 10440/10430 batteries charge to 4.2v every time.

DW

I didn't realize that. So, the JS is actually putting out over 3.7 when fully charged?

 

[Palmetto]

Thanks for the input. I'm really leaning towards buying on one the higher powered devices, and it's a fairly sizable investment for me. I'm just trying to find out as much as possible before punching the "order now" button...

I also have a Screwdriver with a 901, in addition to a 901 auto passthrough (no battery) on a straight 5V powered hub. The Screwdriver delivers consistently -- after a slight learning curve on how to best use it -- and I couldn't be happier with it. But if I try to use the 901 passthrough the same way that I use the Screwdriver, I can easily burn out an atomizer within a week, and I have.

So I use the passthrough carefully, and sparingly -- making sure the atomizer doesn't get too hot, and inhaling for much shorter periods.

I think the bottom line is that none of these atomizers were designed to be used with voltages of 5 or above -- so if you do use them with higher voltages, you'll either have to change the way you vape, or buy lots and lots of extra atomisers.

 

[Zaxx]

I did read on some threads that a particular model seemed to be blowing attys. I think they were the 901 attys.

 

[dumwaldo]

Yes a fully charged JS battery is pushing out 4.2v. I am pretty sure the discharge level where the battery stops working is at 2.8 volts but I am not positive about that. I will keep my stick disconnected today and when the battery goes dead I will check it and post the number.

DW

 

[Zaxx]

Thanks for your help here Waldo.

 

[dumwaldo]

My battery just dies and it is testing at 3.38v

The fully charged battery I am about to put in the stick is testing at 4.17v

DW

 

[FAUXPUFF]

Waldo, I use a lot of lithium batteries in my hobby.
A standard single cell lithium puts out 4.2 volts fully charged.
They are described as 3.7 volt batteries.
The cutoff voltage is 3 volts.
If a lithium battery is discharged lower than 3 volts it will create a gas inside when charging and swell up. If the battery is discharged and charged again the battery can explode.
I've had that happen.
So we are vaping at 4.2 volts with a freshly charged battery.
I'm not sure about the stick, but a lot of flashlights have a "regulated" circuit that keeps the output at 4.2 volts even when the battery is say 3.9 volts. These flashlights run at full brightness until the 3 volt cutoff is reached, and at this point they shut off.
It is a pretty simple circuit that does this, maybe the stick has this circuit.
Waldo, have you noticed a decrease in vapor right before the battery dies?

By the way Waldo, I know what it feels like to be flamed in a forum.
I got my "new mini e-cig" (Loongtotem V9) before anyone else and wrote a very nice review of it here. I was instantly attacked and called names. Everyone was saying that I worked for e-cig.com! Even though I had written in my review about e-cig's appalingly bad service. I was very upset. Even when it became clear that I was not a chinese spammer (some even said that the way I write gave away that I was chinese!) I recieved no apology or validation. I was banned for a month. Ouch!

So I understand where you're coming from.

I am still waiting for my LE stick.
I ordered on April 14.
I am very upset at the delays as well, but what can I do?
It's going to be TWO MORE WEEKS before I get it.
Anyway, happy vaping, and hang in there.

FAUXPUFF

 

[FAUXPUFF]

So the stick cuts the voltage at 3.38.
That's good to know.
The higher the cutoff voltage, the safer the situation.

 

[dumwaldo]

FAUXPUFF,

Thanks for the consolatory words. I should let you know that I have been participating in web discussions since about 1996 or so. The 'flames' I get on this forum are pretty weak to a guy like me. I let it roll right off me.

Getting back to the stick, I am not sure if a circuit inside it regulates the voltage. When I started feeling as if the hit was weakening I pulled the battery and tested it and it was at 3.64 volts so it had dropped below the 3.7v mark that I imagine a voltage regulator would prevent exceeding. It is entirely possible that when the battery is over 3.7v a circuit is cutting the power down to 3.7v.

The atomizer fitting is set far to deep inside the stick for me to get the tester prongs in there and test what is being pushed out of the connection. In the next week or so it is entirely possible my stick may end up in pieces on my desk and if that happens I will do some testing from the atomizer fitting and I will certainly post those results in this thread.

DW

 

[CaSHMeRe]

Waldo ... You are forgetting loads ...

A 4.2v fully charged batt that may show 4.2v connected and disconnected from the PV is likely putting roughly 3.8 - 3.9v to actual atomizer under load Testing a *hot* connection where the atomizer is placed really doesn't mean much.

 

[dumwaldo]

Waldo ... You are forgetting loads ...

A 4.2v fully charged batt that may show 4.2v connected and disconnected from the PV is likely putting roughly 3.8 - 3.9v to actual atomizer under load Testing a *hot* connection where the atomizer is placed really doesn't mean much.

I am not entirely sure I understand what you are saying.

If I were to test from the atomizer connection with the button pressed and my result were to say 4.2 there is still a possibility it is only delivering 3.8 to the atomizer?

I am not trying to be obtuse here. I am a carpenter, not an electrician and prior to about two weeks ago I would have called myself 100% electrical illiterate so I am still struggling a bit to grasp certain concepts.

DW

 

[CaSHMeRe]

Hey DW ...

No worries ... This was all new to me during the testing of things. ( all of 1-2 months ago )

I used to automatically believe that when the threaded end on the battery was tested and showed a certain voltage, that is *automatically* meant that was what the atomizer got .... In fact, it wasn't ....

In our quest to find a good resistor, we discovered how power hungry the atomizer actually is. Until you have an atomizer on the threaded end of the battery, its an incomplete circuit. Once completed (by the addition of the atomizer) and gets turned on, the unit/batteries are now under load. Voltage drop across the loaded/completed circuit is immenent (sp?).

Example: (2) Fresh RCR batteries -- Inline, hooked up outside any type of device. We had one wire to the hot end (positive) and one to the negative. We then added a switch and battery threading. We kept (2) parts of each thread uninsulated, so we could test. We watched the voltage drop from roughly 7.2v to roughly 5.9v under load. We then tested another series of RCR's (higher amperage) that put out roughly 7.5v, under load, they were putting out 6.2ish ... Thus, we than had to find the correct resistor for 5.9v - 6.0v instead of the original 7.2s - 7.6v.

I don't know for certain what load an atomizer will have at 4.2v (I was simply guessing) The only way to test is to open up the device and test each wire before and after the addition of atomizer once the circuit is completed.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

My battery just dies and it is testing at 3.38v

The fully charged battery I am about to put in the stick is testing at 4.17v

DW

This makes sense. If the cutoff on a battery is roughly 3v, and you are putting out 3.38v on an incomplete circuit, once loaded, you are likely right near that 3v mark

 

[breakfastchef]

Cashmere, dweller of Nashvlle, is very correct in telling us that the voltage from a battery not under stress is much different than a battery that is being called upon to do its job. Doing 'its job' is the actual voltage the battery is able to supply for its task. So, while many of us may build a 6V modded battery case to super-vape our products, the battery is asked to provide a specific amount of power, but it often falls short of its ability to provide the maximum extent of its power all the time. So, while your 6v power source may measure 6v with a mter, under pressure from the atomizer, it may only be able to provide 5.4 v. As the battery charge decreases, so will the battery's ability to even provide 5.4 volts. It is the nature of the power source world. That is why well-engineered device, despite their high cost, appear to be a good value, because they carefully choose the power source to ensure maximum amount of vaping time and maximum vapor production.

 

[dumwaldo]

OK, I actually understood that. Thank you both for taking the time to explain.

It seems so logical, a resistor provides resistance and once the atomizer is introduced it becomes like a resistor and 'pushes back' on the output of the battery actually lower the output voltage.

Is that correct?

DW