I feel like a noob asking this, I've been mainly sub-ohm vaping on mechanicals and drippers for some time now, but I just received a few variable voltage/wattage mods such as the VTR, itaste134, etc. I kind of assumed that variable voltage/wattage corresponded together, I.E. setting my device to 15 watts, 6 volts would go hand-in-hand. Someone brought up today that they were told that when setting it on a device, you chose variable wattage OR voltage. Is this true? Or was this person wrong.
Variable volatage/wattage?
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You chose either variable voltage or variable wattage, but they do "interact" as per Ohm's law.
It's all about the Ohms of the tank/clearo/etc. you put on top.
Example A: You set it to variable voltage at 4 Volts and attach a 2 Ohm tank - you get 8 Watts.
Example B: You set it to variable wattage at 8 Watts and attach a 2 Ohm tank - you get 4 Volts.
Makes sense? I'm only on my first cup of coffee so far, sorry
It's all about the Ohms of the tank/clearo/etc. you put on top.
Example A: You set it to variable voltage at 4 Volts and attach a 2 Ohm tank - you get 8 Watts.
Example B: You set it to variable wattage at 8 Watts and attach a 2 Ohm tank - you get 4 Volts.
Makes sense? I'm only on my first cup of coffee so far, sorry
They were right - you choose one or the other. You don't need to choose both at the same time, and can't. If you set it at certain wattage, it reads the ohms of your attachment and then sets itself to the right voltage for the power (watts) you set.
If you set the voltage then it doesn't adjust - so you can either calculate the watts you want or go by taste.
Either way don't start with a high setting - start low and work your way up.
There's a link in my sig below with a bit more explanation.
You chose either variable voltage or variable wattage, but they do "interact" as per Ohm's law.
It's all about the Ohms of the tank/clearo/etc. you put on top.
Example A: You set it to variable voltage at 4 Volts and attach a 2 Ohm tank - you get 8 Watts.
Example B: You set it to variable wattage at 8 Watts and attach a 2 Ohm tank - you get 4 Volts.
Makes sense? I'm only on my first cup of coffee so far, sorry
Bulldog has it right, the only difference is which end of the same formula you start from.
you can get higher wattage from vv than you can from set wattage depending on your build, max on average is 6v or 15 watts, a 2.0 ohm coil on 6v is 18 watts, a 1.8 ohm at 6v is 20 watts and so on, depending on what your using the lowest you can go is 0.8 ohms which would be 45 watts, if you never go above 15 watts then chose the watts setting, if you want to go higher chose volts, i'm not an expert but i believe that's the way of it, if that is wrong someone please tell me so i can go wash the egg off my face lol
So what's the point of the itaste 134 since it only goes up to 12.5 watts? That's the only mod I have. I bought it at a local shop when I quit smoking cigarettes and the little vision spinners just didn't cut it. I should have done more research before I bought it I guess, unless I still don't understand it. But it don't seem very powerful. Can't do dual coil rda because how long it takes to heat up, and won't fire under. 8 ohms. So its just a big shiny average pv? It works ok with the kayfun, but not the dripper. I think a mech is better for the way I want to vape? The itaste134 won't hit like a mech? If it does, let me know the secrets!
Yup, that about sums up the iTaste 134. When it came out and I looked at the feature set and specs, I determined that this was a novelty item for Innokin (IMHO). It came with a very different and distinctive appearance, a huge mod which makes a "statement". However its feature set is lacking in some parameters, namely being variable wattage only, no LED display, and a limited power output.
The same is often said of the Provari. It is variable voltage only, has a limited amp limit, and it has a distinctive appearance.
I think the tech designers for Innokin must have a fun job. Design a mod that looks like a gattling machine gun (iTaste 134). Design a mod that looks like a grenade (Cool Fire 2).
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I'm glad I finally get to hear somebody tell it how it is. At the time I bought it was big and bad looking and the guy at the counter didn't really know much, at the tobacco shop. I figured it was better than the spinners tho so I picked it up. I was a heavy smoker, and I'm over trying to get this thing to put out. It just won't quite get where I want it to. So that moves me into finding a mech. All the authentic are spendy and next to impossible to get, so any recommendations on a well built clone? I don't want to purchase crap and there is a lot out there. I know you get what you pay for, but I got the itch now lol.
Its a good pv, just not designed for sub-ohm vaping. A lot of people vape within SR ohm range and don't go over 10 watts.
Anyway - there are so many mechanical mods... Check out this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/556093-advice-good-mech-clone.html
You will need a multimeter if you don't have one, and check your battery amp limit.
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The Magneto is a really good solid Mech Mod and is only around $60 in the B&M stores and i've heard you can find it as low as $45 on the net.
Question.. What's SR? Safe range?? Where can I learn more about this and what is not considered safe?Its a good pv, just not designed for sub-ohm vaping. A lot of people vape within SR ohm range and don't go over 10 watts.
Anyway - there are so many mechanical mods... Check out this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/556093-advice-good-mech-clone.html
You will need a multimeter if you don't have one, and check your battery amp limit.
I have a multimeter and decent batteries already, I think.
Get some 35 amp batteries a k100 or 101 and you won't touch another vv vw again.
SR is standard resistance - roughly from 2-3 ohms. LR is low resistance. LR usually refers to under 2 ohms, like 1.8, 1.7. Sub-ohm is... well you know that.
What you need for safety is to work with ohms law. You need to know what ohms you have (multimeter), and what amp capacity is needed for the power you want to vape at.
e.g. a 0.5 ohm coil at 15 watts requires 5.477 amps.
There's an RBA section of the forum here where you can ask questions also.
even with 12.5 watts you can get solid vape. Aspire Nautilus, Kayfun Lite, heck even Pro Tanks. Build your coils around 1.6-2.5 ohms and you can enjoy decent vape with 12.5 watts
hello, have you experimented with different liquids? different flavor or more pg/vg? This can make a big difference as well, not just the device. I have been vaping cinnamon red hots flavor on my ego and mini protank 2, which hits hard and I love it, but my friends can't handle it and choke (they are smokers who want to try it out). But using other flavors don't do it for me, don't have the throat hit, or sensation I had when smoking. Although, I found a decent green apple flavor, and a vanilla that works really well. Go to a local shop and try all the flavors, you may find that your gear works, you just need different juice.
I have the nautilus and kayfun 3.1 and the lite plus. Nautilus is too tight, imo, And it does not compare to the kayfuns. I've never tried to build the nautilus tho.. Maybe I'll try it for fun
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