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As far as I know no. I mean my provari can fire a 1.0 coil. But sub ohm vaping is normally around .6 the closest thing I can imagine would be a dna20 board in a mod that you build. You can however make a micro coil and somewhat come close to sub ohm vaping. Check it out.
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my buddy has a provari, and i but my trident on it and it was a .7 dual coil and it fired at 4.7 ohms ,just not any higher
As already stated, DNA 20 based device like the Opus D or the Cyclops are the only devices that will run sub Ohm. They're pricey but do the job nicely.
Baditude:10656814 said:fired at 4.7 ohms?
Yeah...... methinks this didn't happen.
Dna 20 mods can do sub ohm, but from my understanding, once it hits its limit it ceases to be VV and runs directly from the battery.
I saw that too, and I feel the same as you and DoogieTony. Could have meant 4.7 volts, but I wouldn't believe that either, not with a .7 ohm coil.
Pbusardo has a video review of the DNA 20D in action firing a sub Ohm tank and the oscilloscope measurements to go with it.
The highest my ProVari can do with a 1.0 ohm dual-coil is 3.8v... Better than my mechs, considering it's 3.8v of regulated, consistent voltage. 
I wouldn't want to go higher if I could.
I wouldn't want to go higher if I could.
I'm just asking this because I'm trying to understand mechs better. As I understand it the main reason for doing sub ohm is to get higher watts on mechs which can't adjust voltage? If so why would you want to do sub ohms on a vv? To reach watts beyond the device's limit? Or am I completely misunderstanding this.
The advantage to VV is that the Voltage Output is stabilized. I just bought a Standard Bottom Feeding Bogger Box and it is not technically a mechanical because it has a switch but it's performance is middle of the road in terms of V-Drop under Load.
With the mechanical I start with a full battery at around 4.2V with the Voltage under load from my .55Ohm Atomizer showing 3.6V as I continue to vape the voltage drops off, at the end I'm vaping at around 3.1V and then I change batteries. So hotter vape at beginning cooler vape at the end.
I have a DNA20D Bogger Box that will run a RBA that is .61 Ohm and higher. At under .6 Ohm the unit just cuts off. I have a .75 Ohm RBA set up and I set it to 3.9V I can vape for many hours and it always puts out the 3.9V under load. So 3 hours later I'm vaping at the same watts I was vaping at initially.
There is more than 1 reason for Sub Ohm Vaping, aside from getting the higher watts on a mechanical. Sub Ohm Vaping generally uses Lower Resistance Coils. Lower resistance coils heat up slower and in the opinion of many provide a smoother vape. So it's also about the preference in the Vaping experience.
My Dream Vaping machine would be a Variable Volt that would allow me to go down to .4 Ohm and maintain steady current for a consistent vape.
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It's the large-coil effect. The simplest way to build a large mass coil is to use a heavy gauge wire. This of course makes it have a very low resistance. You don't have to use heavy gauge wire to get coil mass up, however, which I don't think is a widely understood fact.
Wait a minute! SubOhm Vaping is defined as under 1.0 ohms, I do believe. Therefore, all subohm vaping uses lower resistance coils. Super subohm vaping uses even lower resistance coils......and I don't know if the jury is out of where that starts .5, .4, .3?
When someone purchases a LR premade coil on there RBA is will most likely be in the range of 1.5-2.0. And Standard Resistance lies between 2.0 - 3.0.
Also, "lower resistance coils heat up slower". [edit out a line due to next post]
This is not meant to be argumentative. Coil materials make a big difference, just a cooking pans do. My aluminum pot heats quicker than my crock pot. The crock pot stays hotter a lot longer than the aluminum pan. Same with wire. Some wires heat up faster than others. It depends on the wire type, gauge and configuration of the coil.
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In truth the statement about low resistance heating up slower should be considered true. Again, not to be argumentative, but science would back that up. The thing missing from the statement is context. Heat is generated in the coil because energy is trying to pass through it. The only reason heat is generated is because of resistance to that energy flowing through the circuit. Given two identical pieces of wire and two identical energy inputs, folding one piece of wire in half should also half resistance. (It doesn't but we don't need to be THAT technical). Passing energy through those wires, the doubled over piece should take roughly twice as long to reach the same temp. The issue of coil temps, especially in RBA's, comes down to the wrap and wick. I'm fairly sure I could wrap a super sub ohm coil to heat very quickly but it would require using odd materials and would probably use just as odd a power source. I think it is fair to say that lower resistance coils do heat slower, they usually also hold that heat better. I can do two vapes on the coil I'm using now and only fire it on the first vape. It takes a long time to get hot and a longer time to cool down.
Cut the wire in half and the resistance will halve. Folding it in half will quarter the resistance.
Yup. My bad. Been a long time out of the game so all of the rules get a bit jumbled. In addition to that you've got all the other variables that go into wick and coil making. You could probably cover about half of a physics 101 course using wick and coil builds for your labs. Thermal conductivity, fluid dynamics, molecular cohesion, pressure systems. Thank you for the polite correction.
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