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You'll find that the Russian works well with most any build you slap in her. Micros, vertical, silica, SS mesh hybrid, dual vertical, I've had mine with most every build out there except ceramic. May end up trying that at some point too. I currently have mine setup with a sub-ohm micro build. But will probably go to a dual vertical next, or still want to try a dual parallel dragon with the coils over the juice decks. That way I could go sub ohm dual's with the Russian and try my vape at 35 watts. hmm, hmm. Will have to give that a try.
Here's some pics of my latest oddy build.
32g to 24/26 no res (not sure which) basically twist and crimp with pliers. Holds so tight I broke the 32 twice,far up from twist, pulling it really hard. Never pulled this crimp apart.
Coil , 9/10 wrap 1/16 micro, 3ohms , using a mod with 2 amp limit for now..
After fitted, legs sized and bent to fit channels
Installed
Thickness of cotton core wrap I do.
Amount of wick I use,
Others may be having better luck with using a more/ packed wick because they are Using more power and lower ohms...... not sure, I haven't tried 28 and a mech or 5 amp mod yet
32g to 24/26 no res (not sure which) basically twist and crimp with pliers. Holds so tight I broke the 32 twice,far up from twist, pulling it really hard. Never pulled this crimp apart.
Coil , 9/10 wrap 1/16 micro, 3ohms , using a mod with 2 amp limit for now..
After fitted, legs sized and bent to fit channels
Installed
Thickness of cotton core wrap I do.
Amount of wick I use,
Others may be having better luck with using a more/ packed wick because they are Using more power and lower ohms...... not sure, I haven't tried 28 and a mech or 5 amp mod yet
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Glad you got the point of this and its working good for you.
I do it because you get proper contact to the coil, the wick around only needs to lightly touch it to wick to it.
I vaped my tank completely dry by accident this morning and had to rewick... Well I did what I have been thinking of for a while..
When you open a carto the "diaper" on the carto is a cotton material that reminds me of a cotton drying cloth I got from the car wash vending machine. Very absorbent material. Well don't have that right now but the material also reminds me of Those Kleenex "paper" towels. I had one..so.. Cut a strip to fit my coil width long enough for a good overlap, almost 2 layers of it. (When I wrap my cores; I soak them with juice so they stick in place.) Wicked it nicely with rayon and after a 5 min soak.. Vaping perfectly , this is much easier than making the core wrap from cotton.
Kleenex " paper" towels ! Just rinsed the strip quick and patted dry. I'm vaping it @5v right now on 3ohm coil and its clean and pure. Bumped it to 5.5 and took a 10sec pull still good.
Here is a pic of the diaper material I got from an old bottom coil carto. Washed and dried. I have used a strip of this too but the towel is thicker and more absorbant!
Carto core wrap
When you open a carto the "diaper" on the carto is a cotton material that reminds me of a cotton drying cloth I got from the car wash vending machine. Very absorbent material. Well don't have that right now but the material also reminds me of Those Kleenex "paper" towels. I had one..so.. Cut a strip to fit my coil width long enough for a good overlap, almost 2 layers of it. (When I wrap my cores; I soak them with juice so they stick in place.) Wicked it nicely with rayon and after a 5 min soak.. Vaping perfectly , this is much easier than making the core wrap from cotton.
Kleenex " paper" towels ! Just rinsed the strip quick and patted dry. I'm vaping it @5v right now on 3ohm coil and its clean and pure. Bumped it to 5.5 and took a 10sec pull still good.
Here is a pic of the diaper material I got from an old bottom coil carto. Washed and dried. I have used a strip of this too but the towel is thicker and more absorbant!
Carto core wrap
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This viva core wrap is the bomb. So far best performance I've had.. Vaping at 6 volts for a while and its working great. No off flavor whatsoever. This looks like it is my new go to..
If you've ever used these for towels you know their the best, super absorbent and strong.
If you've ever used these for towels you know their the best, super absorbent and strong.
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Again I have posted this on the Aqua thread also, but feel it's appropriate to post here too, for all my Vcore friends!!
Here is some pic's of my setup with the vertical build.
This is how I wick it. I first take one strand of cotton a thread it through the two top leg leads, straight through the middle, then place the second strand on top of the first forming an X.
The cotton shown above was actually to much was getting to much heat and wicking, but works for demonstration purposes. I re-wicked it with about half the thickness of the cotton shown so that when twisted up tight the diameter of the strand covered about half of the coil, so that when I do the wrap around and tuck into the channels I get full cotton coverage around the outside of the coil without covering either end.
I now leave the tails of the cotton long so that they come to the bottom of the base. I then twist the cotton up tight, using the top placed strand to wrap around the bottom end of the coil, then stuff it into the juice track to lock it into place, I then use the other stand that goes under the top wire leads to cover the top half of the coil, twisting it tight to cover the rest of the coil without covering the ends, and stuff it into the juice channel locking it into place.
No build is complete without a shot of on of my cats in the picture apparently. lol
I then juice the wick before final assembly. Again the pics above don't show exactly how I now stuff the channels. Leaving the tails long, where they extend past the juice channels, I bend them back over and down into the base of the channels and up into the sides of the channel. So I am basically using a doubled strand of cotton in the horizontal and vertical portions of the juice channel, ending at the top of the coil deck, where I trim off any excess flush with the deck. This accomplishes two things. 1.) it fills up the full juice channels so that flooding is no longer an issue. 2.) The juice flow control is now fully functional. You shut it down and you can totally shut off wicking, you open it up and can get more wicking needed for the watts your build is running at.
I have run a couple of tanks with this setup and working great. I've changed up my fill technique a tad, to get as much juice as possible in the tank. With juice control shut down and air control shut down, I fill the tank up to just under the top thread of the tank. I then place the top cap on and turn it just enough to engage the threads. Then I invert the tank letting the juice flow into the head of the top cap, and then turn the tank open a few turns to relieve any pressure build up, screw the head in a few turns the open air control fully, then screw the top cap completely tight. Good to go. I haven't flooded the coils yet, can leave the juice control fully open without flooding. On my next fill I'm going to use a syringe to fill just to see how much juice actually goes into my tank. I have vaped this setup at 15 watts kicked and un-kicked at about 34 watts, Damn that's a great vape!! Now I get it!! Sorry, just had to throw that in. lmao. I am having no heat issues, doesn't get any warmer than any of my other atty's. May have to buy another, but will probably wait till I try a few others. One can never have too many styles of rba's. Yeah that's my motto.
Hey Jeremy why such the high ohm builds? Most you can cook at is like 12 watts and at 5.5 volts you are only cooking at 10 watts. Just curious.
Here is some pic's of my setup with the vertical build.
This is how I wick it. I first take one strand of cotton a thread it through the two top leg leads, straight through the middle, then place the second strand on top of the first forming an X.
The cotton shown above was actually to much was getting to much heat and wicking, but works for demonstration purposes. I re-wicked it with about half the thickness of the cotton shown so that when twisted up tight the diameter of the strand covered about half of the coil, so that when I do the wrap around and tuck into the channels I get full cotton coverage around the outside of the coil without covering either end.
I now leave the tails of the cotton long so that they come to the bottom of the base. I then twist the cotton up tight, using the top placed strand to wrap around the bottom end of the coil, then stuff it into the juice track to lock it into place, I then use the other stand that goes under the top wire leads to cover the top half of the coil, twisting it tight to cover the rest of the coil without covering the ends, and stuff it into the juice channel locking it into place.
No build is complete without a shot of on of my cats in the picture apparently. lol
I then juice the wick before final assembly. Again the pics above don't show exactly how I now stuff the channels. Leaving the tails long, where they extend past the juice channels, I bend them back over and down into the base of the channels and up into the sides of the channel. So I am basically using a doubled strand of cotton in the horizontal and vertical portions of the juice channel, ending at the top of the coil deck, where I trim off any excess flush with the deck. This accomplishes two things. 1.) it fills up the full juice channels so that flooding is no longer an issue. 2.) The juice flow control is now fully functional. You shut it down and you can totally shut off wicking, you open it up and can get more wicking needed for the watts your build is running at.
I have run a couple of tanks with this setup and working great. I've changed up my fill technique a tad, to get as much juice as possible in the tank. With juice control shut down and air control shut down, I fill the tank up to just under the top thread of the tank. I then place the top cap on and turn it just enough to engage the threads. Then I invert the tank letting the juice flow into the head of the top cap, and then turn the tank open a few turns to relieve any pressure build up, screw the head in a few turns the open air control fully, then screw the top cap completely tight. Good to go. I haven't flooded the coils yet, can leave the juice control fully open without flooding. On my next fill I'm going to use a syringe to fill just to see how much juice actually goes into my tank. I have vaped this setup at 15 watts kicked and un-kicked at about 34 watts, Damn that's a great vape!! Now I get it!! Sorry, just had to throw that in. lmao. I am having no heat issues, doesn't get any warmer than any of my other atty's. May have to buy another, but will probably wait till I try a few others. One can never have too many styles of rba's. Yeah that's my motto.
Hey Jeremy why such the high ohm builds? Most you can cook at is like 12 watts and at 5.5 volts you are only cooking at 10 watts. Just curious.
Yeah I guess your right but it's working good for me. I've pretty much maximized the performance I'm getting out of it. Don't think I need a lot more just a better mod. The reason I can't go much higher is because the kamry k200 has a realistic 2 amp limit . With a fresh battery I can push 15 (not very long) then it starts dropping off. the amp limit drops with the battery, with a bat voltage @3.7v I can barely get 2 amps. Anything lower than 2.8 and I have issues keeping the voltage high enough for the coil over the battery range. Also I only have 32g. I'm planning on getting a sigelei zmax in a few Weeks which will be 4 amps. 28 or 30g and have Been Tossing around getting a mech too, chiyou, nemi, mkb-ts, or magneto, but think I want a new vv first. I like the easy control. I'm on a budget so only one thing at a time..
I haven't ventured subohm, but I think if someone tried this they would be really, really surprised its on 10-12 watts. The vertical micro is really kickin.
What do you think about the viva core man, it's on the real. Its Working great better than cotton for me.
I haven't ventured subohm, but I think if someone tried this they would be really, really surprised its on 10-12 watts. The vertical micro is really kickin.
What do you think about the viva core man, it's on the real. Its Working great better than cotton for me.
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Ah, now I understand. I recently went with an Hcigar 2 tone Nemesis clone with the evolv kick 2. Simply loving it. The kick 2 turns a mech into a regulated device with all the same protections. Can get both for under $100. What is really kewl, is that the Nemi clone is kickable in all battery configurations. 18650, 18490, even 18350 if you want to go that small. And it's a beautiful sexy mod. All parts interchangeable with the real deal. So if I want the magnet switch upgrade or the extended center pin, I can get that too. The Aqua rba that I posted above is at .6 ohms right now, and going to try for a .5 ohm build next, because that is as low as the kick 2 will go. And want to crack the warp 35 barrier, un-kicked, just to see what that is about. lol. Prefer a 15watt vape, but 33 watts was pretty good too!!
Actually got a good chuckle when I saw the viva core! only Jeremy would think of that!! lol. getting great results with my cotton X wrap on the Aqua, and waiting for my hemp fiber, to see what that can do. Went dual sub ohm on the Russian with coils over the juice decks, tasting good, but need to play with it a bit still. It's a .51 ohm build. The Term-C is still doing great with the cotton core SS mesh hybrid build, and almost vape 30 ml of licorice juice through it, going to rebuild it once I finish the last of that juice, have a couple of improvements in mind for it.
Actually got a good chuckle when I saw the viva core! only Jeremy would think of that!! lol. getting great results with my cotton X wrap on the Aqua, and waiting for my hemp fiber, to see what that can do. Went dual sub ohm on the Russian with coils over the juice decks, tasting good, but need to play with it a bit still. It's a .51 ohm build. The Term-C is still doing great with the cotton core SS mesh hybrid build, and almost vape 30 ml of licorice juice through it, going to rebuild it once I finish the last of that juice, have a couple of improvements in mind for it.
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You convinced me to buy the Aqua. Got the last one from nerportvapor & think they're still available at VapeDoctor. I can't wait! Thank you.
Just wish it was 22mm but whatever.
Just wish it was 22mm but whatever.
The 21mm form factor is not that bad, doesn't look any worse then the term-c on top of the nemi, the term being 23mm I believe. It's a more dainty rba for sure, only has a 3ml juice capacity. Looks freaking great though on an 18490 battery unkicked. super mini style stealth mode that way. Can't imagine how small it would be with an 18350. All in all it's a beautiful rba and the vape is incredible. The reason it's 21mm is because it was designed to go hybrid on the origin mech. Though would have been great if it was 22mm and had a 5ml tank capacity.
Yeah I've really debated the mech for a while but recently made my mind to go vv again, probably to my demise, the thing will probably break/malfunction in 3 months. I like to control volts depending on wicking. And want the safety features of a regulated with a curious 3 yr old running around. Kick has to be Opened and dialed.
As funny as the viva is its working really good on my build. Vcore goes viva core lol. Better than cotton balls!
As funny as the viva is its working really good on my build. Vcore goes viva core lol. Better than cotton balls!
This is true, but since I've been using the kick 2, I've only set it once, dialed it up to 15 watts max and that is where I use it on all my rba's. No longer have to mess with voltage to get the max watt output. Only thing I mess with is my build, try to get as close as possible to a .5 ohm wrap, then can un kick and do 35 watts. Easy to adjust if I want, just remove the head of the mech and adjust with a mini screw driver. But for me it's set it once and forget about it. Right now I'm vaping the Aqua at 33 watts. Pretty damn good vape. Not trying to sell you on a mech just letting you know my experience with it. And yeah, my next pvd will be a mech, but it will have to be kickable with an 18650.
The button started going bad on my first 18650 vv device within about 3 months. Then I dropped it on the sidewalk and busted the end cap loose on it. So I bought another one (different manufacturer) and guess what. Yep, the button misfires half the time and after about 3 months of use.
I've had a 18500 bolt for well over a year and it has seen me through, plus I've now added a v3 from fasttech. I like to keep my ohms up around 1.4 and my mechs are about all I use now. I guess I must just take longer draws as my batteries go down because I have to be careful and not forget to change them out before they go too far down. So not missing my vv tubes too bad.
Whenever mine arrives I'm hooking up the v-coil set up for sure but I think instead of the X wick I'm going to use a smaller wick to wrap the entire outside of each coil with tails resting on the same side's channels to increase surface area covered by the wick sort of like an alpha symbol with the loop around the coil and tails in the nearest channel, if that makes sense.
I started on 18650s then switched to smaller batts for stealthiness, however, I went back about a year or maybe more ago so I don't have to fiddle with changing batts as much. I don't go below 0.8 ohm and even at that on a 18490 batt I'd have to change them out way too quickly. In the same respect, the wizard evolved devices don't even offer 18350 sleeves because it would be pointless at higher watts unless you're into changing a battery every couple draws and don't mind wearing out dinky little batteries.
I started on 18650s then switched to smaller batts for stealthiness, however, I went back about a year or maybe more ago so I don't have to fiddle with changing batts as much. I don't go below 0.8 ohm and even at that on a 18490 batt I'd have to change them out way too quickly. In the same respect, the wizard evolved devices don't even offer 18350 sleeves because it would be pointless at higher watts unless you're into changing a battery every couple draws and don't mind wearing out dinky little batteries.
Kewl deal, whatever works, I'm using about half the amount of cotton that is pictured, and the way I wrap around the coils totally surrounds all the coil surface and by doing a over under weave on the outside of the coil where the 2 stands intersect, and jamming them into the channels, locks the cotton in place nicely. I've probably gone through 8 tanks at 3ml each and have had no issues. Plus I'm thinking, havin the extra cotton in the middle, helps keep the wick saturated with reserve fluid, that when chainvaping at 30 watts, helps keep me from getting any dry hits.
When installing the vertical mount, I use the syringe needle to help with the install, by placing one through each coil and into the air intake holes. This keeps the coil perfectly positioned while securing the wires. I attach each bottom wires first on each coil at the deck site, one going to the positive post between the isolator and the long knurl nut, and the other coil bottom lead going to the negative post between the deck and the long knurl nut, tighten real good, then I attach the top wires to their opposing postd, tighten and remove excess lead wire, measure, pulse, wick, saturate, assemble, fill and vape.
The Aqua continues to blow me away, every time I take a vape!! Just can't believe how smooth it vapes, no popping, gurgle, or turbulence, just mass smooth, tasty, voluminous clouds of vape. Finally got my fogger V3 wicking properly and vaping quite good, realy good, liking it immensely, but compared to the Agua, the Fogger vapes like a V-twin big bore cruiser, while the Aqua vapes like a super charged nitrous burning, port and polished V4 sports bike. Think I'm rambling now, over nic'd or something. late. lmao.
When installing the vertical mount, I use the syringe needle to help with the install, by placing one through each coil and into the air intake holes. This keeps the coil perfectly positioned while securing the wires. I attach each bottom wires first on each coil at the deck site, one going to the positive post between the isolator and the long knurl nut, and the other coil bottom lead going to the negative post between the deck and the long knurl nut, tighten real good, then I attach the top wires to their opposing postd, tighten and remove excess lead wire, measure, pulse, wick, saturate, assemble, fill and vape.
The Aqua continues to blow me away, every time I take a vape!! Just can't believe how smooth it vapes, no popping, gurgle, or turbulence, just mass smooth, tasty, voluminous clouds of vape. Finally got my fogger V3 wicking properly and vaping quite good, realy good, liking it immensely, but compared to the Agua, the Fogger vapes like a V-twin big bore cruiser, while the Aqua vapes like a super charged nitrous burning, port and polished V4 sports bike. Think I'm rambling now, over nic'd or something. late. lmao.
Yeah, but then again I work nights at a casino dealing dice til 3 or 5 am, so technically it's still night time form me. but do need to drop off to sleep, 8 pm start time tomorrow, or what most call today!! lmao. Did I mention that the Aqua rocks?? Got a surprise testing out the Fogger, used some juice I haven't touched for a month or to, some premixed stuff, got one heck of a nic hit, looked at the bottle, it was some 18mg nic juice I'd bought from MBV before I started DIY juice at 12mg. Forgot how woozy 18mg nic will make you vaping at 15 watts. Good thing I was relaxing in bed already.
Later.
Later.
Just built my first vertical micro coil in my R91 and it's tasting good so far. 28g, 12/11 wrap on 1/16 drill bit. 1.5 ohm cotton wrap. I used to build the same thing for my protank but they work so much better in the R91!
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