I posted this before but I think it got lost when my Photobucket went down. So here it is again. It's not the best but I hope it helps those on the fence about making there own.
Video- How to Make a 5 Volt Mod "Detonator"
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Hey Robert- I got the wiring figured out for the Dentenator- the only guestion I have is about the ground coming off the 5v regulator to the battery. Did you ground it directly on the flashlight board? or should I run a wire down the flashlight to ground on the neg side of the battery?
It spelled "Detonator"
You can ground it to the board. The ground contacts on the board rest on the little lip inside the fl body- and this is the weak point. The spring on the pos connection wants to push the board up -- thus disconnecting ground from the body and the back switch- I tried holding down the board, extra solder on the neg connections- all work but could fail- finnally I fixed the weakest part. Now I simply drill a hole through the body near the bottom of the board and solder a wire to the neg connection on the board and run the bare wire through the body- fill the hole and wire with soldier and cover with a nice jp weld lump- presto- perfect ground finnally. All my mods work great but the ground sometime need adjusting till it was perfect- tested and proven perfect. My newest one has a very very bright lock out blue lLED and and green atty LED. I drilled safety vent holes. Everythiing inide is jb incased and jb weld was poured over entinre insides making it virtually a solid state piece- tough.
You can ground it to the board. The ground contacts on the board rest on the little lip inside the fl body- and this is the weak point. The spring on the pos connection wants to push the board up -- thus disconnecting ground from the body and the back switch- I tried holding down the board, extra solder on the neg connections- all work but could fail- finnally I fixed the weakest part. Now I simply drill a hole through the body near the bottom of the board and solder a wire to the neg connection on the board and run the bare wire through the body- fill the hole and wire with soldier and cover with a nice jp weld lump- presto- perfect ground finnally. All my mods work great but the ground sometime need adjusting till it was perfect- tested and proven perfect. My newest one has a very very bright lock out blue lLED and and green atty LED. I drilled safety vent holes. Everythiing inide is jb incased and jb weld was poured over entinre insides making it virtually a solid state piece- tough.
if you're good at soldering, solder a wire to the metal base of the switch or loop a wire around the base of the threads before you install it. could work
No, the way I described it is the way it should be. Am I good at soldering? lol- well I've soldered quite a few of these together- it dosent have to be to the base of the threads or anywhere near the end as long as ground is firmly attached to the body. Aluminum is terrible to solder to since it displaces heat so quickly so drilling and soldering through hole was the best option.
Sorry Robert I know your good at soldering, I was refearing to the other gentlmen Dave
ps ya I know bad spelling, I can't drive and spell at same time...
ps ya I know bad spelling, I can't drive and spell at same time...
This actually works very well , and you dont have to drill a hole in the body this way. The switch body is grounded to the casing as soon as you install it, and I doubt its going to be coming loose. If it does then you have other problems..
Thanks- But I got my first one from Shreck- it was a little different- but basic idea was his! I just took off a button added 2 lights and changed the name.
I wish Maddog was here- as far as I know he is the real creator of the Magnum- but it was a 6 volt unit.
Maddog- Thank you, where ever you are.
I thought of running an ground wire to the end, but no. I like my drilled body with ground solidly attached to the body. Whenn I start to attach the end cap- you can tell by watching the green LED that the connection is solid. Eventually I will put an LED at the endcap end. I will need the room to run some wires down there.
I wish Maddog was here- as far as I know he is the real creator of the Magnum- but it was a 6 volt unit.
Maddog- Thank you, where ever you are.
I thought of running an ground wire to the end, but no. I like my drilled body with ground solidly attached to the body. Whenn I start to attach the end cap- you can tell by watching the green LED that the connection is solid. Eventually I will put an LED at the endcap end. I will need the room to run some wires down there.
I love the part when your singing the hook to "Big Time". I'm on my way I'm making it, huh!!
I'd like to try this out when I get a chance
I'd like to try this out when I get a chance
In the video Robert briefly mentions the momentary switch from TI, does anyone know the part number for the switch?
Need something smaller than what Radio shack has to offer.
btw, I drill a small hole in the case, and insert a small screw, and solder to the screw for my ground.
Need something smaller than what Radio shack has to offer.
btw, I drill a small hole in the case, and insert a small screw, and solder to the screw for my ground.
I agree. Robert, if you could put a parts list together and post it that would be great.
anybody besides me notice that a quarter fits in the lens hole perfectly??
but i just bought some $0.05 washers and grind them down a touch after drilling out the center holes.
edit: and the idea of grounding to the metal exterior of the switch housing is pretty good.
unless you are using a plastic switch
but i just bought some $0.05 washers and grind them down a touch after drilling out the center holes.
edit: and the idea of grounding to the metal exterior of the switch housing is pretty good.
unless you are using a plastic switch
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I read in an earlier thread that a beer bottle cap fits nice and tight over the end..
now if I could just lay me hands on some smaller switches.
now if I could just lay me hands on some smaller switches.
what happened to the vids? all but the first say removed by user if you try and play them?
I have one Mod that I purchased, but would very much like to make one like this. Hopefully I will have the time soon!
CV
P.S. Nice videos! THANKS!
CV
P.S. Nice videos! THANKS!
I have one Mod that I purchased, but would very much like to make one like this. Hopefully I will have the time soon!
CV
P.S. Nice videos! THANKS!
these used cr2s and could have been dangerous to use as robert found out. 16340 could be used but not in these tubes as they are too big.
cr2 protected would work. there are better mods to make..
I still have one that works but you cant get to the switch because of the epoxy dome unless you break it all up to replace the switch or atty connector.
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