I picked up a Boge Revolution v2 the other day, and I love it. First time bottom feeder user, so perhaps I am newbish in this, but.. Oh well. I love its rubberized finish. I love the shape, it fits my oddly shaped hands perfectly. I love the button location. I like the way the bottle slides in. I may be alone in that, I know some people hate it. I love the way that my ring finger sits perfectly upon the bottle window, making skonking or whatever the hell its called seamless and requiring no more effort than turning it upside down and squezing, no flopping it about in my hands awkwardly. Bogger boxes, vmods, and Reo Grandes all are lacking for me in this way, and most of them are just simply out of my price range. I have other things I must pay for, like.. cat food and frozen pizza.
I have some problems with it, however. I'd like to fix them, becuase I just don't see anything available right now that would give me what I want. In addition, I'm not an electrician, I'm making assumptions based upon what I have gathered while reading, so feel free to correct any false assumptions.
My biggest problem the v2 is the less than optimum power that one gets with a standard 2.0ish ohm atomizer, it ends up putting out around 5.5 watts under load, based on some posts I saw on its under load voltage. Obviously, the simple solution would be to use a 1.5 ohm atty, which would place me around the more desirable 8 watts. I never liked the simple way of doing things, though. I will pick up a 1.5 ohm eventually, but in the meanwhile, it leaves me with a reason to fixate on something I do not have, and want. This always leads to scheming. I spend a lot of time doing that. The same personal issue lead to me blowing several hours cutting away at broken Grande tanks with a dremel in order to Frankenstein a genesis-type rebuild-able atomizer tank without actually having the required parts to make the atomizer itself. When I get around to buying them, it will probably work, but, I'm already on to new things. ADHD.
Aaaaanyways, I have some ideas in terms of what I want to do. I would like to take THIS (below) kit and throw it in the case, running a pin of some kind up through the goofy no longer in use ionizer air port and attach it to some form of small knob using epoxy.
Variable Voltage Regulator Board Kit Rev 2
I would also like to find a way to fit in a removable 18650 battery. There is enough room in the side of the case to fit one, with some hacking and such, which I will get to. If not removable, rechargeable. Or something. Those batteries will die someday, and that will make me sad. Very sad indeed.
However, if you will please draw your attention to the image below, which I have shamelessly stolen from some poor hapless forum poster who has written in a language I cannot fathom, you will see that there are some bits and pieces in my way. Lots of them, actually. View attachment 105195
It has a nice tube shaped groove that would be perfectly sized for a 18650, once I lopped off the things in its way. The old battery, mini-usb port, spare carto tube, these are all quite disposable, and I figure I can extend the lid to cover the exposed space once I cut away the offending plastic. However, I must also remove the circuit board that handles the power switch, and connects to the board that is connected to the button. This may be a problem for me. I suppose with some dicking around, I could figure out what contacts to attach to the kit. I could PERHAPS find something to fold into a nice curve to cover the gaping wound where once lived a nice little switch. But then, I must figure out a way to complete the circuit with the battery. Being that I plan on having the battery slide out the bottom through the door now reserved for a spare carto, it becomes difficult. The door is removable. Placing a contact on it would be doable, and should still keep it removable. Having anything wired to said contact would not, and at best would quickly fall out. Placing a conductive material around it might resolve that, but.. I have a feeling it would make a poor connection and be prone to simply not working.
What to do? Ideas? Corrections? Suggestions? Indignant protestations that I have something severely wrong with me? Insinuations that I might have better things to do with my time than make such pointless ranting posts?
*EDIT* I have a problem with using the word "however" too much.
*edit #2* Whoa. I just read about the DNA 12. Scratch the old idea of removing the battery, scratch the old kit. Make the battery non-removable, use a higher quality potentiometer in the same location as before, leave the usb port in, and use the DNA 12 to charge the battery. Is that doable? Am I reading its datasheet correctly? This would take have of all of my space issues as well, and leave room for me to seal in the bottle compartment, removing danger to the circuit.. AND have variable wattage. I must have this.
*edit3* Awww, sad single post thread. Well, if anyone takes pity on me in the future and puts in some thoughts, here is where I am at now:
I think I would like to go with VW rather than VV. I would like to use the DNA 12, along with this potentiometer.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10805
I would tear out the led board and mount the potentiometer in the slot, tear out the on/off/led board and glue the switch in place.
On the USB charger, I'm a little under-educated on the subject of charging circuits and confused. I don't know what actually happens on the board itself. From the video where brandon talks about the dna 12, it sounds like the DNA does in fact do the charging regulation, so hooking the mini-usb board up to the dna 12 directly and wiring them to a mounted 18650 and charging from a standard ego charger usb would function, right? I could also just swap that board with the dna12 one when they release it if it did not. In that case, if I could not with the original usb board, could I then plug it into the USB wall charger from an ego?
How would I know if the output off of the usb port board is correct for charging a 18650? I'm guessing it would be pretty hard to know, its hard to see from the picture but there doesn't look like there is much on it, the charging circuit could be located on the board that I plan on tearing out. In which case, I'm going to have to replace it. A new problem arises from that, however. The miniusb port is mounted parallel to the shape of the v2, there is little room on either side of the port in the case for a full board, it has to be very slender, or have the usb mounted off center from the board, because the bottle is right next to it on the left side.
Something like this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10401
Battery: Would it be better to go with something like this (all links in this post stolen from dna threads)? What are the advantages? I can replace a single 18650 easily. What is the difference on a practical level?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18558__Turnigy_2200mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
*FINAL EDIT* Ok, I figured it all out for the most part. I think I'll go with this battery
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
and the above potentiometer and charger. Should be set. I asked a few questions elsewhere about the charger with that batt, but for the most part I think I'm ready to order. Now I just need to wait until the 20th to get paid. Hopefully the DNA is still in stock then. Maybe I'll lend some money from my fiance and buy it now.
I have some problems with it, however. I'd like to fix them, becuase I just don't see anything available right now that would give me what I want. In addition, I'm not an electrician, I'm making assumptions based upon what I have gathered while reading, so feel free to correct any false assumptions.
My biggest problem the v2 is the less than optimum power that one gets with a standard 2.0ish ohm atomizer, it ends up putting out around 5.5 watts under load, based on some posts I saw on its under load voltage. Obviously, the simple solution would be to use a 1.5 ohm atty, which would place me around the more desirable 8 watts. I never liked the simple way of doing things, though. I will pick up a 1.5 ohm eventually, but in the meanwhile, it leaves me with a reason to fixate on something I do not have, and want. This always leads to scheming. I spend a lot of time doing that. The same personal issue lead to me blowing several hours cutting away at broken Grande tanks with a dremel in order to Frankenstein a genesis-type rebuild-able atomizer tank without actually having the required parts to make the atomizer itself. When I get around to buying them, it will probably work, but, I'm already on to new things. ADHD.
Aaaaanyways, I have some ideas in terms of what I want to do. I would like to take THIS (below) kit and throw it in the case, running a pin of some kind up through the goofy no longer in use ionizer air port and attach it to some form of small knob using epoxy.
Variable Voltage Regulator Board Kit Rev 2
I would also like to find a way to fit in a removable 18650 battery. There is enough room in the side of the case to fit one, with some hacking and such, which I will get to. If not removable, rechargeable. Or something. Those batteries will die someday, and that will make me sad. Very sad indeed.
However, if you will please draw your attention to the image below, which I have shamelessly stolen from some poor hapless forum poster who has written in a language I cannot fathom, you will see that there are some bits and pieces in my way. Lots of them, actually. View attachment 105195
It has a nice tube shaped groove that would be perfectly sized for a 18650, once I lopped off the things in its way. The old battery, mini-usb port, spare carto tube, these are all quite disposable, and I figure I can extend the lid to cover the exposed space once I cut away the offending plastic. However, I must also remove the circuit board that handles the power switch, and connects to the board that is connected to the button. This may be a problem for me. I suppose with some dicking around, I could figure out what contacts to attach to the kit. I could PERHAPS find something to fold into a nice curve to cover the gaping wound where once lived a nice little switch. But then, I must figure out a way to complete the circuit with the battery. Being that I plan on having the battery slide out the bottom through the door now reserved for a spare carto, it becomes difficult. The door is removable. Placing a contact on it would be doable, and should still keep it removable. Having anything wired to said contact would not, and at best would quickly fall out. Placing a conductive material around it might resolve that, but.. I have a feeling it would make a poor connection and be prone to simply not working.
What to do? Ideas? Corrections? Suggestions? Indignant protestations that I have something severely wrong with me? Insinuations that I might have better things to do with my time than make such pointless ranting posts?
*EDIT* I have a problem with using the word "however" too much.
*edit #2* Whoa. I just read about the DNA 12. Scratch the old idea of removing the battery, scratch the old kit. Make the battery non-removable, use a higher quality potentiometer in the same location as before, leave the usb port in, and use the DNA 12 to charge the battery. Is that doable? Am I reading its datasheet correctly? This would take have of all of my space issues as well, and leave room for me to seal in the bottle compartment, removing danger to the circuit.. AND have variable wattage. I must have this.
*edit3* Awww, sad single post thread. Well, if anyone takes pity on me in the future and puts in some thoughts, here is where I am at now:
I think I would like to go with VW rather than VV. I would like to use the DNA 12, along with this potentiometer.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10805
I would tear out the led board and mount the potentiometer in the slot, tear out the on/off/led board and glue the switch in place.
On the USB charger, I'm a little under-educated on the subject of charging circuits and confused. I don't know what actually happens on the board itself. From the video where brandon talks about the dna 12, it sounds like the DNA does in fact do the charging regulation, so hooking the mini-usb board up to the dna 12 directly and wiring them to a mounted 18650 and charging from a standard ego charger usb would function, right? I could also just swap that board with the dna12 one when they release it if it did not. In that case, if I could not with the original usb board, could I then plug it into the USB wall charger from an ego?
How would I know if the output off of the usb port board is correct for charging a 18650? I'm guessing it would be pretty hard to know, its hard to see from the picture but there doesn't look like there is much on it, the charging circuit could be located on the board that I plan on tearing out. In which case, I'm going to have to replace it. A new problem arises from that, however. The miniusb port is mounted parallel to the shape of the v2, there is little room on either side of the port in the case for a full board, it has to be very slender, or have the usb mounted off center from the board, because the bottle is right next to it on the left side.
Something like this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10401
Battery: Would it be better to go with something like this (all links in this post stolen from dna threads)? What are the advantages? I can replace a single 18650 easily. What is the difference on a practical level?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18558__Turnigy_2200mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
*FINAL EDIT* Ok, I figured it all out for the most part. I think I'll go with this battery
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
and the above potentiometer and charger. Should be set. I asked a few questions elsewhere about the charger with that batt, but for the most part I think I'm ready to order. Now I just need to wait until the 20th to get paid. Hopefully the DNA is still in stock then. Maybe I'll lend some money from my fiance and buy it now.
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