I heard about people using stainless steel white and mesh. Where can I buy these types of wire?
Wanting to try new wire
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Mesh is not wire per say. It is like screen. Used in Genesis style tanks as a Rolled Mesh Wick, Wrapped with a Coil.
Stainless Steel, 403 316L are good, depending one desired use. Both will work in VW mode.
Both will work in TC mode, but mod Dependent.
Some mods use one, some the other, and still others can use both.
Stainless Steel, 403 316L are good, depending one desired use. Both will work in VW mode.
Both will work in TC mode, but mod Dependent.
Some mods use one, some the other, and still others can use both.
This. The important question is what are you going to be using it in, and what sort of build are you shooting for?
My supplier of choice is Lightning Vapes. They carry a really nice selection of rebuilding materials at reasonable prices.
I've been using 316L ss wire in my mechanical REOs for the past 2-3 weeks. I like it. Very smooth; but it behaves very differently than kanthal.
I get my ss wire from Temco, which is the same place I've always got my kanthal.
I get my ss wire from Temco, which is the same place I've always got my kanthal.
I've recently migrated to 316L SS. I get it from the UK supplier Crazy Wire. Larger quantities available and pricing is fair. Shipping takes 10-14 days tho.
I like stainless in my REO, as noted by Rule62, it does have different characteristics. Think about using SteamEngine to play with different builds with varying thickness. I particularly watch the changes in heat capacity and heat flux as I change the build.
I have purchased from Kidney Puncher - use the code "May10off" for a 10% discount.
Stainless is different, "smooth" is probably the best word for it. Try a small amount and see if it works for you.
I've done the same, using the Steam Engine 'Heat Flux' feature.
The thing about ss is that the resistance increases drastically, as the coil heats up. For this reason, you get the quick heat up, and then the vape smooths out, as the resistance increases. Tough to describe; but it's very different than kanthal. In a mechanical, you build so that your initial 'cold' resistance is lower; but as the coil heats up, it will replicate a higher resistance build.
For example, with kanthal, I usually build around .4 to .45 ohms. With 316L I build at about .3 ohms. As the coil heats up, the resistance will climb to .4 ohms, or a little above.
Interesting, I did not know this about the resistance rise. It would explain why I sometimes think my build is cooler than I think it should be. I generally build around 1.2 Ohm. How did you learn this?
Rayonatisloth had a very good video in the REO Lounge. I believe it's on page #65. IMO, the resistance rise is the most important factor in using ss on a mechanical. I have tested it myself by firing the coil on my Fire Meter or Coilmaster 521 Tab; and immediately after firing, switch the meter over to resistance check mode.
If you usually build at 1.2 with kanthal, I would try building around .9 or 1.0 ohm.
You can also enter 316L as your wire material in Steam Engine, and look at the Heat Flux. But when you're using SE, be sure to enter the correct Wattage, based on whatever coil resistance you're building.
Same as Rule62, I saw the video in the rayon thread. Got some 316L from Temco. Good stuff, easy to work with. I have 4 Kanger Sub Tank Minis that I switched over to SS. I was building 28ga kanthal at 1-1.1 ohm at 20w. With 30ga 316L it is close to 1 ohm. When dry I saw the jump in ohms but when wet I don't see it as much (on my Kbox screens). I use the same watts and it seems to give a nicer vape.
I also did a .65 ohm and put it on an Aspire CF mod, unregulated. Similar vape, very good.
Temco is around $5 shipped for 25' but only $1 more for 50' and another $1 for 100'
I also did a .65 ohm and put it on an Aspire CF mod, unregulated. Similar vape, very good.
Temco is around $5 shipped for 25' but only $1 more for 50' and another $1 for 100'
The resistance jump, with materials such as ss, nickel, and titanium, is actually the basis for how TC works, in TC mods. Kanthal doesn't work, because the resistance remains more stable, as the coil heats up.
I've found that to be the case in my mech's too.It works great,but is almost too smooth.I still like though,and it's all i use in my vw stuff.
Agree with the resistance rise, as I can see it happen on my VF Stout. Let's say my build is .27 ohm. I hit the fire button, and I can watch the resistance rise to .32-.34 ohm through the fire cycle. Very good for mechanical, as even if your cold resistance is borderline safe for your battery, as you fire, the resistance makes it even safer.
I'm into the Notch Coil for now , SS , just tried the 521 Tab test , started at.26 fired up to .31, I have put one in my REO/Velocity and have had great results, , ordered 3 packs from FT , but am using the Theorem alot
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