was going to order the patriot...... wound up with AGI instead.....

[rogergendron1]

yup i went on 101vapes to order the patriot clone and for lik 15$ AND WILE LOOKING I SAW THE AGI WAS ONLY 10$ wow !!!

now the patriot is a dual coil dual air hole dripper thats 22mm and i realy want a 22mm dripper, but i do not dig the dual coil set ups, i was going to use it single coil. then i read about the lack of flavor it has in single mode due to the large chamber design and double air holes, i still wanted it though... it would look sweet on my modded and polished magneto !!!

now i am looking around and i see the aqua the arnold and yup the old school agi !!! and the agi was only 10$ !!!! the agi can convert from a 22mm genny to a 22mm dripper very easy, i had this genny before and afer making a solid brass positive post and drilling and retapping the wick hole to 8-32nds it was the best genny i had to date !! so i ordered it with the intent to use it as a dripper !!!


now because i use single coils i felt it was the better choise, i mean it has 2 post and a neg ground screw so you can do chiminey coils and vertical setups real easy with it, it also has a pretty deep drip well thats a pluss too. and if i feel the need to use it in genny mode i will after some modding of course...... the wick hole needs to be drilled out and retapped to fit an 8-32nd set screw, this allows the use of 3mm wicks... next the air hole needs to be drilled to 1/16th or 3/32nds for me... and the spring and positive ost setup needs to go and be replaced with a long brass screw (i still have the old one from my last agi) then it becomes a great genny.

did i make the right choise here ??? what would you prefer for a 22mm dripper ???

the AGI in dripper mode or the patriot ???

 

[rogergendron1]

lol the AGI at 101 vapes is less money than the igo w !!! so for 13$ you can get a 20mm igo w or for 10$ you can get the 22mm AGI and use it as a dripper...... the top caps look exactly the same, the only differance is the igo w is 20mm and has 3 posts and the agi is 22mm and has 2 post and a ground screw. personaly i like the ground screw for makeing vertical micro coils and keeping the cotton wick down against the floor of the drip well.










i feel like the agi as a dripper has more options for a single coil set up than the patriot does, it has the ground screw making vertical coil set ups a breeze. where as the patriot has 3 post and no real esy way to make a vertical coil without making one long leg on your coill, also is made for dual coil so there are 2 air hole making the draw too airy for a single coil and giving deminished flavor.

whats your opinion guys who makes the best 22mm dripper for single coil setups ???

 

[crazyarms]

I love my AGI in drip mode. It is perfect for my single coil builds and produces some pretty nice vapor with a 3/32 air hole. My only grip with it was the leaking from the bottom when in drip mode. Simple wrapping the screws in Teflon tape fixed that and now its great.

 

[Niko49]

I strongly considered the AGI myself. But read that they have alot of voltage loss due to the spring in the center pin. Apparently they are great until you start getting lower than 1.1ohms. I dont know if the center spring pin is only used in genny mode or if its still present in dripper mode.

Hope I didnt .... on your parade.

 

[suspectK]

The igow4 is a 22mms 3post rda.. doesn't make sense to name that w4 and the 4 common post the w3..

I have 2agis. I bought my first one at least 6 months ago for $40 at a shop. I couldn't pass up on the deal with 101..i like verticals, but I hate that long leg you get from using normal drippers.

If you're going to use it as a dripper, put teflon tape on the grub screws. I bought the second one to use as a genesis, but I haven't really used both outside of dripping. Also, you may want to take off the oring underneath the base when using it as a dripper.

 

[emus]

I think you made a mistake ordering an AGI.

Instead, you should have ordered a handful before they sell out at $10. You need several so you can drill custom small and large air holes plus have some in tank mode and others in drip mode. Both tank mode and dripper mode looks sweet on 22 mm tube.

I use Teflon tape on the grub screws and never leaked a drop. Must use 3 grub screws not 2 grub screws and one philips screw. Perhaps leaky reviewers didn't use 3 Teflon taped grub screws?

In tank mode the hot spring needs to be bypassed below roughly 2 ohms. I did the one minute copper wire stuffing inside hot spring mod and voltage drop beat IGO-F but lost to Pulse G clone. Can anyone post details about the long brass screw hot spring delete rogergendron1 spoke of.

 

[Exile]

FastTech 22mm Patriot Clone. (single airflow hole)

$6.07 Patriot Style Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[emus]

FastTech 22mm Patriot Clone. (single airflow hole)

$6.07 Patriot Style Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I have several 2013 FT toppers and several 2012, 2013 and 2014 UD toppers.

I'm satisfied with the SS quality; o-ring quality, glass quality, finish quality and overall quality of all my UD toppers. Some did need tweaks but they now work great and I'm proud of them all.

I'm slightly to very unsatisfied with the quality of all my FT toppers. Some needed tweaks and most now perform good but they vary from slightly junky to very junky. Not proud of any.

 

[rogergendron1]

I strongly considered the AGI myself. But read that they have alot of voltage loss due to the spring in the center pin. Apparently they are great until you start getting lower than 1.1ohms. I dont know if the center spring pin is only used in genny mode or if its still present in dripper mode.

Hope I didnt .... on your parade.

i had the agi before and it was stolen allong with my mech mod.....

the fix is simple.... first you drill the air hole to 1/16 or 3/32
next you teflon tape the threads
drill out the wick hole to 8-32nd and tap it for a set screw
where the spring should go in genny mode....... pull the whole bottom post and sping out, toss the spring in the parts box and pull the post out of the botton base, in its place you install a flat head philips brass screw cut to size for genny mode, problem fixed....

it would seem like a lot of work but i can get all this done in 30 min with a dremal and i feel for a great genny its worht it (it becomes a great genny after those mods)

i would never use the agi stock !!! LOL it leaks and it has the largest voltage drop ever, that and any coil 1.5 ohms or lower willl melt the spring !!

just replace that spring and bottom post on the base plate with a long brass screw cut to size and your done !

 

[rogergendron1]

here is the mod...spring and steel post delete...

the base with spring removed



this is the post you want to replace for a longer brass one



here is the post removed, all you do is push it out



it can be replaced with a brass sexbolt like this or a brass screw cut to length so it fits to the to cap in genny mode



i mostly use drippers though so i will probably just fix it up into a permanant dripper and leave the genny parts in my vape box lol

 

[rogergendron1]

I think you made a mistake ordering an AGI.

Instead, you should have ordered a handful before they sell out at $10. You need several so you can drill custom small and large air holes plus have some in tank mode and others in drip mode. Both tank mode and dripper mode looks sweet on 22 mm tube.

I use Teflon tape on the grub screws and never leaked a drop. Must use 3 grub screws not 2 grub screws and one philips screw. Perhaps leaky reviewers didn't use 3 Teflon taped grub screws?

In tank mode the hot spring needs to be bypassed below roughly 2 ohms. I did the one minute copper wire stuffing inside hot spring mod and voltage drop beat IGO-F but lost to Pulse G clone. Can anyone post details about the long brass screw hot spring delete rogergendron1 spoke of.

i just posted it .. all you realy need to do is look at the base plate, you will see there is a post press fit into it, this post has a thin top for the spring to slide over, this post will press out of the base and leave the base with a delrin plastic gromit with a hole in it behind, all you need to do it find a brass screw that is NOT a full thread screw, a screw where the threading stops half way and the rest of it is smooth, then you press the screw in to the base till its snug up against the bottom of the 510 connector, now you must grind down the head of the screw if you didnt use a flat top screw till its flat and doesnt stick out to far, then test fit the tank and cut screw to length so it meets the the base of the dripper when fully screwed down.

a brass screw with full threading will work if you cant find a non threaeds rod or a sex bolt, but be aware you will need to put a drop of silicon on the last few threads that meet up with the base to prevent minor leaking in genny mod.

 

[rogergendron1]

well to make this easy ... lol just replace that post with a brass rod thats .125 in diamiter and cut to length. the hole is .123 so a rod thats .125 or .126 will press in and make a tight seal.

the stock pin is .125 so if you can find a brass rod thats .125 just cut it to size and press it in and your done, you now have a solid brass post instaed of a spring set-up.


ohh by the way .125 is 1/8th so a 1/8th brass rod is easy to find ... we carry 3 ft sections at lowes.

View attachment 297700
View attachment 297701
View attachment 297702

all you need to do is press out the steel rod and press in a 1/8th brass rod and cut it to length for genny mod, it wont matter if its a little to long because as you screw down the top of the genny it will push out the rod on the bottom, then you can cut the rod to length from the bottom of the AGI in genny mode with a dremal and a cut off wheel so no worrys about weather its too long or not. easy fix...



if you want to get realy fancy............ you can use that same brass rod to make new pos and neg posts...... but thats another story...

the AGI is only 10$ and a 1/8th brass rod is 2$ so for 12$ and 30 min of your time you can have a sweet genny. or just use it as a dripper, i mean come on 10$ for a 22mm dripper !!!

 

[rogergendron1]

here is the brass rod fix

1/8th brass rod or aluminum bolth conduct very well, a copper rod would be best


cut it 1.25 in long


press it in the agi bottom base leaving 1/4 hanging out


now assemble the agi fully and as the cap screws on the rod will press down to the size it needs to be

now cut the remaining rod thats hanging out the end of the 510 off and your all set !!!

you now have an AGI with a solid brass or copper center post.... from the 510 connector all the way to the top

 

[emus]

here is the brass rod fix

1/8th brass rod or aluminum bolth conduct very well, a copper rod would be best
View attachment 297929

cut it 1.25 in long
View attachment 297930

press it in the agi bottom base leaving 1/4 hanging out
View attachment 297931

now assemble the agi fully and as the cap screws on the rod will press down to the size it needs to be

now cut the remaining rod thats hanging out the end of the 510 off and your all set !!!

you now have an AGI with a solid brass or copper center post.... from the 510 connector all the way to the top

So simple yet so genius!

 

[rogergendron1]

So simple yet so genius!

this was done with a spare base i have sitting around, i will do a short thread and video of how to with minimal tools tomorrow when my new AGI arives.

you need
1 a 1/8th copper, aluminum, brass rod... the metals are listed in order of conductivity... copper is best aluminum is second and brass comes close 3rd.

2 a hack saw or dremal tool to cut it to length

3 a file to round off the burs, or dremal agian

4 and agi genny...... lol


this mod replaces the entire low conductive stainless steel bottom post and resistive spring, i am working on a setup to go all the way up to make a custom top positive post also sooo,..... stay tunned !!!

the final results will be a genny with a long brass or copper post that goes from the connection at the 510 all the way up to make the positive post in the cap !!!

it may end up being a brass tube with a 1/8th ID hole that is tapped on top for a screw to hold the coil and slides over the 1/8th post in genny mode to make contact, yet still be able to seperate to make it a dripper without compramize it, in fact it will make it better by reducing voltage drop and adding conductivity !!!

 

[emus]

Sounds good. I'm ok w/ SS too. I have sufficient conductivity w/ SS chemesis pins. Less oxidation worries w/ stainless. I prefer 1/8" bare copper welding rod if I can buy individually.

Perhaps the hot spring delete rod can be lapped to the upper spring seat. Make rod long enough for chuck. Remove AGI seal. Grease seal seat. Assemble AGI minus OEM center pin. Apply lapping compound. Drill spin rod till lapped.

 

[iamlenb]

Oh man, what a thread. The AGI was my first rebuildable ever, before I discovered the AGA T2. I'd been saddened by the anemic performance once I tried wrapping it lower ohm and put it on my mech, then I found the spring issue.

Totally makes it worth it! I replaced the oem post with a copper rod, painted on a ceramic enamel. Awesomeness ensued! I love that the AGI has a lip around the deck. Favorite Youde genny.

 

[emus]

Oh man, what a thread. The AGI was my first rebuildable ever, before I discovered the AGA T2. I'd been saddened by the anemic performance once I tried wrapping it lower ohm and put it on my mech, then I found the spring issue.

Totally makes it worth it! I replaced the oem post with a copper rod, painted on a ceramic enamel. Awesomeness ensued! I love that the AGI has a lip around the deck. Favorite Youde genny.

I'm thinking about powder coating inside caps to insulate them from the heat and maybe produce better vapor. Bit of a pain because I'll mask o-ring seats and powder does not prefer to deposit inside chamber corners.

 

[rogergendron1]

right now i am working on the positive post for the top cap, i plan on making a brass post for the top cap also that slides over the post for the botton base... it will be hollow and threaded on top for a thumb screw.

i have got a bit of work making a prototype and asembling it and making sure it works, then making a differant version and making shure that works and so forth and so on untill i get the easyest possable soloution that can be done with minimal tools that is reliable.

my idea so far is the solid rod fix for the base that is longer so it would go up into the top base, with a hollow positive post for the top base that goes down to the 510 where the base post would slide in. this post would be drilled and tapped for a screw to mount the coil.


it would look like this.. sorry about the crude pick lol