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No top pics?
No multi-meter?
Best to read Voltage as is. If above 3.0-3.2v, then attempt a attended charge. Don't leave them alone until you know what is happening.
If they run a normal charge cycle, let them cool/rest for 10 minutes then read their charge. Should be 4.2v or very close if your charger is accurate.
If you unwrap to investigate, make sure you get replacement wraps if planning to reuse.
Carefully check the area around the + cap for leakage.
Looking forward to results.
No multi-meter?
Best to read Voltage as is. If above 3.0-3.2v, then attempt a attended charge. Don't leave them alone until you know what is happening.
If they run a normal charge cycle, let them cool/rest for 10 minutes then read their charge. Should be 4.2v or very close if your charger is accurate.
If you unwrap to investigate, make sure you get replacement wraps if planning to reuse.
Carefully check the area around the + cap for leakage.
Looking forward to results.
Just borrowed my friend's D2, see if it could help figure the mystery out... it brought up something to me,
Could be the case be, actually there was some extra glue, or machine oil, gathered behind this connector pin, maybe around the supporting spring, and the heat melted it and let it drip down to the battery, eventually made a bad connection? Compare to this, mine looks more clean and tidy so this idea never came up to me until now.
I've been using an AWT yellow skin battery on my friend's D2, so far, nothing special happen, except it seems not hitting as hard as mine.
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Yes Sir! Right Away Sir!
Both voltage reading way above 3.2V, now in charging mode
And no, I don't have anything to rewrap them, except... duct tape...
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Thanks it's a good question, the Samsung 25R is about 3~4 month old, AWT red about 2 month old. I have used them both in mech mods for like a dozen time. Not too old, absolutely not completely new.
What I am seeing on the negatives of both the mod and the batteries is scoring from arc damage and for that kind of scoring from a 3.7V battery it needs a lot of amps. It all points to bad wiring from the battery sled to the mod and shows classic signs of a high resistance connection in series with the load.
If I had to guess, I'd say the battery has to feed a lot of extra juice to push past the bad connection, over taxing it, and the voltage drop caused by it isn't great enough for the board to cut out but enough to wreak havoc with the battery.
Given the testing the OP has done and what I'm seeing, there's no question that the mod itself is defective and needs to be returned for repair/replacement.
If I had to guess, I'd say the battery has to feed a lot of extra juice to push past the bad connection, over taxing it, and the voltage drop caused by it isn't great enough for the board to cut out but enough to wreak havoc with the battery.
Given the testing the OP has done and what I'm seeing, there's no question that the mod itself is defective and needs to be returned for repair/replacement.
OMG palm to face. You did not charge them? Hey look any liquid coming into contact with the cell at either end will leach under the wrapper its a common occurrence. I dont know what you have going on here. I do know I dont see any battery vent those cells look perfect. Charge them and use them, they dont need to be re=wrapped .... they look new.
Like I said, this has all the signs of a high resistance connection issue at the negative battery contact. The images and symptoms all point to it. Your batteries likely aren't actually venting from drawing too much power, but by being overheated from the outside by the tremendous heat a bad connection can create. The level of scoring on the battery terminal and on the batteries themselves in such a short period of time suggest this.
The only way for a battery to get scored like that would be arcing and the only way to get arcing is either a bad connection or if its a make/break contact point like you'd see on a bottom firing mech. In a properly operating mod, that kind of thing just doesn't happen.
Its hard enough explaining this stuff to an average electrician or electronics tech so I'm just going to go a little lazy and show you this stuff.
For some visuals check this out. I find it strange that none of the literature mentions then increased amp loads these kinds of connection often cause from my observations troubleshooting them over the years.
I personally wouldn't waste a another second trying to troubleshoot the issue. The mod is defective, the heat along with the fluctuating voltage the fault would cause your mod to be supplied with make it a no brainer. Its still under warranty so don't waste any time in returning it.
The only way for a battery to get scored like that would be arcing and the only way to get arcing is either a bad connection or if its a make/break contact point like you'd see on a bottom firing mech. In a properly operating mod, that kind of thing just doesn't happen.
Its hard enough explaining this stuff to an average electrician or electronics tech so I'm just going to go a little lazy and show you this stuff.
For some visuals check this out. I find it strange that none of the literature mentions then increased amp loads these kinds of connection often cause from my observations troubleshooting them over the years.
I personally wouldn't waste a another second trying to troubleshoot the issue. The mod is defective, the heat along with the fluctuating voltage the fault would cause your mod to be supplied with make it a no brainer. Its still under warranty so don't waste any time in returning it.
I've had the IPV D2 for just over a week now & at first it was awesome. Been using in temp mode 95% off the time. Spaced NI200 coils from .86 to .12ohms. Always have the resistance locked. About 3 days ago and build that had been working flawlessly started getting obscurely hot to the point of a burnt juice taste not a dry hit a burnt juice taste. Changed out build & since have changed other builds & several attys. It is now performing at a fraction of what it was in temp mode (not in VW mode). Been using VTC 4's & 5's. I know my builds & wicks & attys are good(even if 1 wasn't they couldn't all be). Is it possible there was some kind of short while in temp mode. Even at 40-50j it just isn't putting out much vapor(the heat is there just not much vapor)& at first it really was. I know some will say it's my build but 4 attys & 7 builds would disagree.
Edit: also wanted to add that I have changed out the battery at least 25 times & it is a lot easier now than it was when I first got it. The battery is definitely making good contact I just wanted to add this info just in case someone thinks it might have something to do with the issue.
Edit: also wanted to add that I have changed out the battery at least 25 times & it is a lot easier now than it was when I first got it. The battery is definitely making good contact I just wanted to add this info just in case someone thinks it might have something to do with the issue.
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I have to agree here.
Definite signs of Arching on Battery and Device Negative. May be a weak Soldered wire off the Contact or at the Board input side.
Either way, it either needs to be Soldered properly or returned for the factory to correct/scrap.
Best to Stop and decide which way you wish to approach the correction.
New, I would return with pics of the Damage being caused by and to the Mod.
As stated earlier - Likely a one off occurrence but they do happen. Replacement would be Prudent.
Edit: Adding this for reference:
Reference to Negative path ^^^^^
Part of the Temperature Control - D2 thread
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Would my warranty be void if I opened my ipv d2 like that^^^?
Could they even tell?
Could they even tell?
See the little disc in the center of the battery tray?
Factory Seal
Do not damage and no reason they should know.
Anyone have an idea as to why my ipv d2 isnt working as well as it was when I first got it? It was cranking out vapor at first then a week in it got extra hot burnt juice hot (yes the resistance was locked) then just started barely pumping out vapor even at 50j. It seems to be heating just not producing vapor. It seems to be fine in power/VW mode. See above post for further info^^^.
No information on actual devices, Builds, Temp settings, Mode - hard to speculate.
Have you tried a regular build in Power mode to see it everything is dropping?
Have you attempted to force clear/reset the mod - if that is even possible?
Maybe Battery out over night. True Menu shut down. Repeated button press with battery out.
Again, minimal usable information and newness of the Mod makes speculation difficult.
Please use the D2 thread in Temperature Control sub forum or start your own thread there and leave this thread for Op assistance without clutter.
Kind Sir, thank you so much for the diagnosis, May I ask in this case should I continue to use those batteries?
I have to agree here.
Definite signs of Arching on Battery and Device Negative. May be a weak Soldered wire off the Contact or at the Board input side.
Either way, it either needs to be Soldered properly or returned for the factory to correct/scrap.
Best to Stop and decide which way you wish to approach the correction.
New, I would return with pics of the Damage being caused by and to the Mod.
As stated earlier - Likely a one off occurrence but they do happen. Replacement would be Prudent.
Edit: Adding this for reference:
Reference to Negative path ^^^^^
Part of the Temperature Control - D2 thread
Thank you for the picture, but I have to ask... it's a good or bad condition demonstration?
thomthom,
Spring misalignment
Tab connection not properly attached
Poor solder or damaged Ground wire at 510 or board
For your Mod, new, I suggest contacting your vendor for replacement.
If needed post them the pictures of Battery Negative burn marks and D2 negative Tab burn marks.
I see no reason they should not replace the unit.
I't does seem the Chip is working properly but there is a ground connection issue.
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