Watts - same same but different?

[zoiDman]

I think what you will find with vaping, as with Most things in the Real World, is that Watts are Not the Only thing that goes into a Hit.

How many Loops of wire comes to mind.

Two given Atomizers of Different resistance may produce the Same watts. But the hit that each gives is Different. Surface Area and Time to Temperature play a Role in the type of hit a User gets.

Two Equations that yield the same Watts doesn't necessarily mean that Everything Else is the same.

 

[zoiDman]

Thats right. Lower volts on lower ohms will produce less amps prolonging battery life

You sure about this?

The Math in Post #1 looks pretty solid.

 

[CJB]

You sure about this?

The Math in Post #1 looks pretty solid.

.............



Yep

 

[zoiDman]

.............



Yep

So why are the Amps Higher in the OP's first Post?

 

[MattyB1503]

Not true. There is a power conversion that takes place. Output current DOES NOT equal battery drain current. In an ideal (not factoring efficiancy losses) device, battery drain current would be equal in those 2 examples.

Rader, you hit the nail on the head. That's the first thing I was thinking, conservation of energy...

Trust me on this one gentleman; you can't get something for nothing.

Why won't my perpetual motion machine work?

 

[CJB]

So why are the Amps Higher in the OP's first Post?

Your right man I had it backwards. Oops!

 

[jon5212]

Has anyone made a mod that would use 2 or 3 say 18650 batteries in Series and step down the voltage instead of bringing it up?

 

[fishol]

To the fellas that suggested i get a spare batt, of course i got spares. Lol. I just want to maximize the usage time of each.
Lots of info on here, keep it coming!

 

[silverx]

so is it better to have lower resistance coils?

 

[AttyPops]

Has anyone made a mod that would use 2 or 3 say 18650 Batteries in Series and step down the voltage instead of bringing it up?

Many of the "stacked battery mods" (including box mods) use regulators that are buck regulators. They only step down...they won't boost. The buck/boost mods have a single battery THAT DRAWS MORE AMPS AND TRADES THEM OFF FOR VOLTAGE BOOST (simple description) or bucks for voltages lower than battery voltage.

The real trick.... How efficient is the regulator. Switching regs are much more efficient than linear for example. Search for EverCool as an example of a 2-battery buck system with a switching regulator.

P.S.

Hang in there Rader!

Basically you guys are beating a dead horse of an irrelevant color since:
1) Batteries take 10 seconds to swap and are cheap.
2) Device efficiencies vary greatly depending on design so you can argue the theoreticals 'till you're blue in the face and still get varying real world results.
3) Battery chem and quality probably make more of a difference...and these boost mods require IMR which has lower mAh. OK. That's not exact, but conveys the idea.

 

[AttyPops]

P.S. For stacked battery systems..... make sure it is a well vented PV and use protected cells (I suppose you could use IMR...but why? Don't need high drain for series systems).

I use box mods. They don't "go boom" due to being built like a pipe.bomb.

 

[fishol]

so is it better to have lower resistance coils?

Nice question =oD

 

[AttyPops]

so is it better to have lower resistance coils?

For what type of system and for what desired result?

LR = hotter at lower volts. However, higher volts are more efficient. However, devices vary quite a bit on how they get to the higher volts. so it's all a crap shoot unless you talk about a specific device and do real-world tests.

Also, funny nobody is talking about faster juice consumption....so...that's where the cost is. lol. Particularly if you're one of the schmucks people paying $1.00 per ml. Battery efficiency/swap is dirt cheap.

I know OP, you want to get the best "mileage" out of the device. Best way is to run a few tests and report back on device and ohms and #hits holding down the button uniformly as possible for each hit.

 

[fishol]

@attypops - specifically for the provari v2.

Another thing, if the mileage will be the same using either lr or hr bec of how the pv was designed, i would rather go lr. Simply bec. It's easier to wrap fewer coils on my atty. But if it will give me more batt life, i wouldn't mind going hr as well.

I know devices will work differently from each other, but with this specific pv, does it really matter?

Just looking for a solid answer

 

[Rader2146]

...

Hang in there Rader!

Basically you guys are beating a dead horse of an irrelevant color since:
1) Batteries take 10 seconds to swap and are cheap.
2) Device efficiencies vary greatly depending on design so you can argue the theoreticals 'till you're blue in the face and still get varying real world results.
3) Battery chem and quality probably make more of a difference...and these boost mods require IMR which has lower mAh. OK. That's not exact, but conveys the idea.

I'm hanging in. Pretty good at holding my own.

Dead Horse: I realized long ago that there is no single answer to the riddle. My only doggy [dogie] rolleyes in this race is that the conventional logic of calculating battery drain current using the the output values, and then concluding that higher resistance is better for battery life, is incorrect. As we both learned months ago, there is much more to the puzzle.

I chalk it up to diminishing returns and vape whatever resistance I have available.

 

[AttyPops]

@attypops - specifically for the provari v2.

Another thing, if the mileage will be the same using either lr or hr bec of how the pv was designed, i would rather go lr. Simply bec. It's easier to wrap fewer coils on my atty. But if it will give me more batt life, i wouldn't mind going hr as well.

I know devices will work differently from each other, but with this specific pv, does it really matter?

Just looking for a solid answer

That makes sense. However, I don't have a provari to test with. I'd also have to rig up a watt detector or some such and measure the draw on the battery in order to tell what it's doing in the real world. Only other way to tell is to run some tests each way...fresh battery with LR and same #seconds per button press (count them)...and then with HR.

 

[SomnambulantDead]

Since you are using a RBA, the most efficient thing to do would be to build your coil so that you hit your desired wattage at the battery's stock voltage.

 

[AttyPops]

Since you are using a RBA, the most efficient thing to do would be to build your coil so that you hit your desired wattage at the battery's stock voltage.

Implication: (and use an all-mechanical mod)

Thing is they are unregulated. If you add a regulator into the works... you need to account for voltage drop and regulator inefficiency...and then you basically cycle back to square one of this discussion only for a fixed voltage rather than vv. If you want an unregulated all-mechanical mod, then sure, good point. They would have the least waste of anything....just adjust the ohms.

 

[edking66]

@attypops - specifically for the provari v2.

Another thing, if the mileage will be the same using either lr or hr bec of how the pv was designed, i would rather go lr. Simply bec. It's easier to wrap fewer coils on my atty. But if it will give me more batt life, i wouldn't mind going hr as well.

I know devices will work differently from each other, but with this specific pv, does it really matter?

Just looking for a solid answer

If you are pulling the same wattage through the coil, you will get the same mileage from the battery

 

[AttyPops]

If you are pulling the same wattage through the coil, you will get the same mileage from the battery

Sorry. Not buying that. Especially with a VV mod using a linear regulator, for example. However, for the Provari in particular...IDK for sure. Seriously doubt it performs the same above battery voltage as below though, since one is boost the other buck.