hey guys so I just bought my authentic copper overdose v2 and coppar sonar just wanted some advice on a build to throw in it
I will be using efest 18650 3.7v 2500mah 20a/35a but if you guys have any better options please do advice it isn't my First mech I have a cherry bomber and s few other tube mech mods how ever I haven't built that many coils and I still do have a allot to learn when itKnowing what battery you are using allows us to know that one it is safe, second what it's CDR is and therefore what an appropriate resistance range is. Is this your first mechanical device? Have you built any coils before? What atomizer are you using? That mech has a direct to battery top, so you need to make sure that the 510 positive pin on the atomizer protrudes at least 1mm clear to prevent a potential hard short.
can you make a mech mod vape at 150w like you can a regulated mod
Simple dual coils seem to fire more on a mech than a regulated box modWith multiple cells, yes.
Regulated mods arent magic. They also require multiple cells to accurately fire at 150 watts.
But if you learn to build your attys properly you really wont have to.
The extra high wattage is used to fire exotic artsy coils. They have so much metal mass, they need higher wattage to fire. They look cool but simple parallel coils work better without the need for all that wattage.
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Simple dual coils seem to fire more on a mech than a regulated box mod
You are so very wrong about Claptons, have no idea where getting this from. Fused Claptons suck down the juice almost like a wick in themselves. Basic physics brother, more juice vaporized = more flavor and vaper production.First off, do some research on battery safety, the most important thing to know is what CDR is, and how to calculate the amp draw of your atomizer. Knowing the CDR of your cells is critical to your safety.
Since you are building for a mech, avoid complicated roto-wound ("clapton") builds; they are the biggest red herring in the vaping community. You will not get more flavor or clouds, you will just get longer ramp-up and cool-down from the additional, basically dead coil mass.
Stick to the least amount of coil mass possible, it isn't quite as pretty, but it will vape much better.
Download and learn to use steam engine, it takes a lot of the guesswork out of coil building.
You are so very wrong about Claptons, have no idea where getting this from. Fused Claptons suck down the juice almost like a wick in themselves. Basic physics brother, more juice vaporized = more flavor and vaper production.
That and basic claptons and fused claptons are easy to make, but like anything you just have to learn how to do it. I can knock out a 2 foot shot of fused clapton in just a couple minutes and I only learned how to do it a couple months ago.
Really?Because....."science", bro.
As soon as the wire is heated all the juice hanging on the clapton coil lets go.
Thats why you need more wick with exotic builds.
Thinner paralell coils cover more surface area, require less power and less time to reach optimal vaping temps .
Takes me no time to wrap fused claptons either.Really?
So wrapping a much thinner wire over your parallel build takes more power and more time to reach optimal vaping temps?
I've done parallel, everything from 24g to 34g, there really isn't a close comparison to the flavor and vapor production of a good fused clapton. I generally do around a 30x2/38 SS fused clapton, easy to make, easy to wrap and parallels don't even come close.
So if you enjoy your parallels, that's great. It takes me hardly anytime at all to spin up a fused clapton and build. Now the really exotic coils like Alien's, stapled, etc. IMO it's not worth the hassle, but fused are so simple to make and very much worth it.
It's all subjective, if it's what you like then go for it.Takes me no time to wrap fused claptons either.
Its quite easy with a drill and swivel, and even easier using an old protank coil as a wrap guide.
I made a ton of them when they first hit the scene. Cant see any advantage over parallels so I dont take the time to make them anymore.
Wire to wick surface contact is the key.