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And what exactly is a "vehicle battery"?
The Tesla is powered by a whole bunch of Panasonic NCR18650A batteries.
Ha, beat me to it! Nice pics. G'luck.
p.s. Now you know what drives vape batt prices. Taxpayer subsidy.
ah yes, wonderful standards .... Well most everything of any type of age follows the IEE international standards of engineering. While vape batteries are not being standardized at this "current" time it is my assumption that it will not remain that way for long, at least not in the USA.
When more people have accidents and get chemical/thermal burns or endure explosions then the commies (gvt) will swoop in with regulations to spare. Of course, the new vaping industry does not want this and tries to prevent accidents in vaping. But, I just imagine that given enough time, stricter regulations will be forced upon battery manufacturers not only in regards to the batteries themselves but also in regards to their labeling and specifications.
Very true indeed....but it is just my assumption that when a few battery grenades go off then the commies will step in and try to control everything. They are good at that
... The way to control is through standards and regulations.
Continuous Discharge Ratings vs Pulse (Burst) Discharge Ratings, Why You Need to Know the Difference
The "continuous discharge rating" in amps is the standard specification for amp limits within the battery industry. It is a determination made by the manufacturer and represents the amp limit a battery can be safely used before it will fail.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor seems to have their own definition of what the pulse rating is.
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety.
I am of the mindset that you should leave a margin of safety when deciding what resistance coil to use. We probably place too much faith into cheap ohm readers in being precise and accurate. Also, a RDA's post screw unknowingly coming loose can greatly change the coil's resistance. I recently had a loose post screw which dropped the resistance 0.5 ohms.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
Be aware that many battery manufacturers over-rate their advertised battery specifications to make their batteries appear superior to consumers. When these batteries are independently bench tested they are actually found to be inferior. Be wary of Efest, Imren, and the " ____ - fire" batteries who are the worst offenders.
Purple Efest Batteries, Not As Advertised
The "continuous discharge rating" in amps is the standard specification for amp limits within the battery industry. It is a determination made by the manufacturer and represents the amp limit a battery can be safely used before it will fail.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor seems to have their own definition of what the pulse rating is.
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety.
I am of the mindset that you should leave a margin of safety when deciding what resistance coil to use. We probably place too much faith into cheap ohm readers in being precise and accurate. Also, a RDA's post screw unknowingly coming loose can greatly change the coil's resistance. I recently had a loose post screw which dropped the resistance 0.5 ohms.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
Be aware that many battery manufacturers over-rate their advertised battery specifications to make their batteries appear superior to consumers. When these batteries are independently bench tested they are actually found to be inferior. Be wary of Efest, Imren, and the " ____ - fire" batteries who are the worst offenders.
Purple Efest Batteries, Not As Advertised
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Which is exactly why the commies will try to regulate every spec in due time. That's what they are best at.
right on brother, which is why vapors need pay little attention to that specification (pulse) if/when it is ever listed. It is a moot point as I mentioned earlier.
Personally, I feel that any electronic component (batteries included) should have as many specs as possible listed. While this may tend to confuse people who may not be in the know, it is very advantageous to us who perform tests of various types. It is up to us to explain away the mysteries to new vapers.
In the world of R/C the pulse is called a 'burst' rating. Meaning that a 'burst of wide-open-throttle' is claimed to be sustainable at such and such a discharge. I've personally never had a problem with 'burst' durations of 5 or 6 seconds, but I've watched a few airplanes self-immolate in less than 2 seconds when the battery was pushed beyond its limits.
do you use r/c devices?
can you give an ohm value for any that you know of at random?
I fly electric-powered R/C airplanes.
R/C electrical components are generally rated with regard to 'efficiency' rather than resistance. More efficient means less heat (that can't be used as power). Heat is a waste product that needs to be dealt with.
I've never given any thought to the actual ohm value (resistance) of any of the setups of my airplanes, but I suppose I could check. I'll take a guess though: It's about a thousand times more than any vaping setup.
Actually it's more. A whole lot more. Resistance is what makes the propeller spin.
What we're concerned with in R/C is flight-time. Battery power that's converted to heat rather than aircraft performance is a waste of energy. In vaping it's quite the opposite.
In the end it's about having a battery do safely what you want it to do.
What we're concerned with in R/C is flight-time. Battery power that's converted to heat rather than aircraft performance is a waste of energy. In vaping it's quite the opposite.
In the end it's about having a battery do safely what you want it to do.
Higher volume production drives down prices.Ha, beat me to it! Nice pics. G'luck.
p.s. Now you know what drives vape batt prices. Taxpayer subsidy.
To understand what is pulse amp rating, you have to understand that for any particular battery, you can define many pulse amp measurements.
You can define a 1 millisecond pulse amp rating.
A 10 millisecond pulse amp rating
A 100 millisecond pulse amp rating.
A 1 second pulse amp rating.
A 10 second pulse amp rating.
Which timescale you choose is going to depend on the intended/expected application of the battery; or for marketing purposes one might merely publish the absolute maximum possible current output without mentioning the timescale.
For conventional vehicular batteries, the highest amp draw on the battery is during engine startup when the battery is used to power the starter motor, which cranks the engine to get it started. Often the user will need to activate the starter motor for several seconds before the engine will continue on it's own.
You can define a 1 millisecond pulse amp rating.
A 10 millisecond pulse amp rating
A 100 millisecond pulse amp rating.
A 1 second pulse amp rating.
A 10 second pulse amp rating.
Which timescale you choose is going to depend on the intended/expected application of the battery; or for marketing purposes one might merely publish the absolute maximum possible current output without mentioning the timescale.
For conventional vehicular batteries, the highest amp draw on the battery is during engine startup when the battery is used to power the starter motor, which cranks the engine to get it started. Often the user will need to activate the starter motor for several seconds before the engine will continue on it's own.
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