What exactly is involved with rebuildables

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Done smoking

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Now that I'm gaining experience and the next step after regular vaping is rebuildables. What is it? I have no clue but seen and hear it all the time. What are the advantages and disadvantages? Thanks newbie. I have a spinner with kanger t35. Very basic setup but I love it. But I am tired of the gargling. So I'm about to step up my game and get an APV with an Aspire or aerotank. I'm thinking pro vapor Xpv dna 40 or provari. One or the other. Any advice.
 

retic1959

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  • Jul 28, 2013
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    Now that I'm gaining experience and the next step after regular vaping is rebuildables. What is it? I have no clue but seen and hear it all the time. What are the advantages and disadvantages? Thanks newbie. I have a spinner with kanger t35. Very basic setup but I love it. But I am tired of the gargling. So I'm about to step up my game and get an APV with an Aspire or aerotank. I'm thinking pro vapor Xpv Dna 40 or provari. One or the other. Any advice.
    A rebuildable is an atomiser that requires you to build the coil and wick assembly , usually out of Kanthal wire and a wicking material such as cotton . There are lots of tutorials on youtube for building specific atty's and that's where you should start . Try looking at some vids on building a Kayfun for starters and come back on ECF for specifics . I can't comment on the mods because I'm a diehard mech user .
     

    EBates

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    "So I'm about to step up my game and get an APV with an Aspire or aerotank."

    I don't own a DNA40, but putting a Aspire or Kanger tank on it would be equivalent to putting playing cards in the spokes of your bicycle. In order for the DNA40 to fully function the atomizer coil needs to be ni200 not kanthal.

    "I'm thinking pro vapor Xpv Dna 40 or provari"

    The provari would be the choice, considering the tanks you have chosen. OBTW, The provari currently is only vv. And IIRC, I don't think the provari goes over 15 watts.
     

    mix1983

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    Nov 16, 2014
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    I'm going to be completely honest instead of trying to tell you what you should buy. Do research.

    It would take a person forever to put into a block of text what you should know.

    Set some time aside to research building a coil, how vv/vw mods work, how they compare to mechanical mods. And it is the biggest thing pushed around here, and for good reason... battery safety. Think of battery safety as a completely different subject from vaping.

    That's my opinion at least.
     

    2wheels

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    Nov 17, 2014
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    Read as much as you can and watch as many youtube videos as you can and you will have a good idea. It will give you a much better idea than anyone can explain in a forum post for you to decide if you want to do it. There is a learning curve to rebuildables but once you figure it out, it gets pretty damn easy. When I first got my kayfun about 2 months ago the first time took me a couple hours to get it set up properly. Now I can rebuild a 2 kayfuns, a taifun gt, and an rda in about a half an hour.

    The multitude of different coil builds means you can control your overall experience. Rebuildables are the only thing that have gotten me down to 1-3 cigs a day. So if you have already quit smoking you will most likely find rebuildables to be a more satisfying vaping experience.
     

    Rat2chat2

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    to ecf Done smoking. Love you name and so glad you are here. Rebuildables are just that. You buy a rebuildable atomizer along with some Kanthal and you build your own coils. I am proof that it is very easy to do so don't be afraid of them. There are lots of good threads on ecf but how I learned was watching YouTube videos. Good luck to you and happy vaping.
     

    LMS62

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    "So I'm about to step up my game and get an APV with an Aspire or aerotank."

    I don't own a DNA40, but putting a Aspire or Kanger tank on it would be equivalent to putting playing cards in the spokes of your bicycle. In order for the DNA40 to fully function the atomizer coil needs to be ni200 not kanthal.

    "I'm thinking pro vapor Xpv Dna 40 or provari"

    The provari would be the choice, considering the tanks you have chosen. OBTW, The provari currently is only vv. And IIRC, I don't think the provari goes over 15 watts.
    The Provari 3 is vv/vw and is a 20 watt device.
     

    Firestorm

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    I moved to rebuildables as a way to stop buying cartomizers (to save money and survive the FDA apocalypse) and to experience a better vape. Rebuildable atomizers (RBAs) come in many different forms from dripping atomizers (RDAs) to different tank systems (RTAs). Whatever rebuildable atomizer you get you ultimately need to wrap resistance wire into coils and use some type of wicking material (cotton, silica, and stainless steel mesh or rope are commonly used).

    I think that RBAs offer many advantages over disposable atomizers. They can be cheaper, customizable, better tasting, and offer self-reliance. I mostly use Kayfun Lites and I build microcoils and use cotton yarn for wick. Lately I've been cleaning my coils and replacing my wicks each time I finish a tank. Although it would be costly with disposables, it's only time and effort given how cheap I can get wire and cotton (like a five year supply for $30). The only disadvantage to rebuildables that I can think of is that it takes time and effort (that is enjoyable and worthwhile IMO).

    I think that any APV like a DNA 40 or a Provari is ideal to use for rebuilding because it lets you choose different voltages and wattages, comes with a built in ohm meter, and has various types of protection. I think that RDAs are simple and forgiving to build and learn on and tank systems can offer great portability.
     

    d4gger

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    Nov 25, 2014
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    I suggest starting on the rebuildable road in a fairly simple fashion. Most atomizers can be opened, you'll be able to see the coil and wick. Get some wick (either order silica rope in a few different sizes or get cotton balls and, if you like, unbleached, undyed cotton thread/yarn) and start by replacing the wicks. Finding the right wick size/setup will solve most gurgling issues.
    Make sure your coil doesn't short by touching the walls, that can be really bad.
    When you've got wicking down, build coils to fit in your atomizers. Make sure they're sturdily in place, and test them with an ohmmeter (you can get ohmmeters built specifically for 510 with an ego adapter for $5-$20 on many sites that sell rebuildables).
    Read up on Ohm's law, and always make sure you're well within your battery's limits.
    When you've got coiling down, get a deck (an Igo-W is an easy dripper to work with) and play with it.
    When your deck builds come out great, and you know what kind of coils and wicking you like, get one with a tank (Kayfun/clone, Fogger, etc.)

    Of course, all of this is just the direction I've gone. Most of all, work it the way it works for you. There are lots of great guides to rebuilding here, so put in plenty of research. A Provari (1,2,3 [there's already a 3!?]) is a great device, anything with a genuine DNA chip should also be great. If you want a cheaper introduction to VV/VW, the MVP 2.0 is a good device, but won't get you to sub-ohm.
     

    edyle

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    Now that I'm gaining experience and the next step after regular vaping is rebuildables. What is it? I have no clue but seen and hear it all the time. What are the advantages and disadvantages? Thanks newbie. I have a spinner with kanger t35. Very basic setup but I love it. But I am tired of the gargling. So I'm about to step up my game and get an APV with an Aspire or aerotank. I'm thinking pro vapor Xpv Dna 40 or provari. One or the other. Any advice.

    A rebuildable has screw posts where you can wrap your own coil, instead of buying replacement coil heads for your t3s, aspire, or aerotank.

    The simplest rebuildable is the rda, also called a dripper; it has no tank, so it never floods or gurgles, (unless you totally flood it yourself);

    after that there are the rta's (rebuildable tank atomizer) where there is a tank and wicking to feed the coil from the tank.


    I use a lot of cotton in my drippers; it acts like the filler in a carto; sort of like a reservoir holding the liquid, so it's kind of like a crude tank in that sense.
     

    edyle

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    For the drippers do you have to keep the cotton soaked by taking it apart all the time.

    You pull the drip tip off and drop some liquid in through the hole;

    (that's why the mouthpiece is called a 'drip-tip')

    I drop in 10 to 30 drops every now and then.
     

    Kropotkin

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    Thanks all. Everyone helped me a lot. I'm going to do research and look at youtube. Right now it sound difficult to me. But I'm sure I will learn more as I go along. I'm glad this forum is here to post and get answers.
    Take it from somebody who never even took Shop in high school: it's a LOT easier than it looks.

    Welcome to forum, and best of luck!

    :)
     
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