Id like to start re-coil/wicking my t3's and nova mini's. But I have no idea which type wick or what gauge wire to buy (or where to but it from) any help would be fantastic!
Thanks!
Thanks!
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This post might get you started on rewicking: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/377470-installing-cotton-you-kanger-t3s.html
Here's another one (probably the best and easiest): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/385799-how-i-re-wick-my-t3s-cheesecloth-pictues.html#post8763906
Someone else might be able to help you with the coil wire info.
Here's another one (probably the best and easiest): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/385799-how-i-re-wick-my-t3s-cheesecloth-pictues.html#post8763906
Someone else might be able to help you with the coil wire info.
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Go on youtube and look up re-coiling and re-wicking T-3s. Look on several threads here about T-3s. There are links to a couple of GOOD videos on it.
What resistance are you trying to achieve?
For t3's I usually go with 2mm silica wick, and wrap it 5-9 times with 32g kanthal A-1 for 1.6-2.5 ohms. Add another small peice of 2mm silica on top of the coil for flavor wick. I think a 2.5mm wick might be better for preventing leaks, but have none to try.
Same idea for the vivi, except I go with 4 lengths of .8mm silica for low resistance(1.5-1.9) and 1 length of 2mm for higher resistance.
I recommend running the kanthal over a flame(lighter or propane torch works) to burn off anything left from manufacturing.
Also, always test for shorts and resistance with a multi meter before using
That's about it... takes me all of 2 min to re-wick/coil a vivi or t3 now.
For t3's I usually go with 2mm silica wick, and wrap it 5-9 times with 32g kanthal A-1 for 1.6-2.5 ohms. Add another small peice of 2mm silica on top of the coil for flavor wick. I think a 2.5mm wick might be better for preventing leaks, but have none to try.
Same idea for the vivi, except I go with 4 lengths of .8mm silica for low resistance(1.5-1.9) and 1 length of 2mm for higher resistance.
I recommend running the kanthal over a flame(lighter or propane torch works) to burn off anything left from manufacturing.
Also, always test for shorts and resistance with a multi meter before using
That's about it... takes me all of 2 min to re-wick/coil a vivi or t3 now.
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Got most of mine from thehouseofvapor.com
And some from free-cigs.com
The house of vapor is the cheapest place, can order by the foot, but they were out of some wick sizes last time I check
I'll second House of Vapor, just found it a couple days ago and it blows the other place I was buying wick and wire from. Only thing bad is that they dont offer options for cotton or bamboo wicking, for that I go to High Desert Vapor for that. I prefer the cotton as it wicks better and will let the flavor come out more, only down side is that it can scorch fairly easy if your not careful, no dry burning
As the OP of the 2nd link, I can assure you, it's SUPER easy. I just rolled my first new coil for a T3 head today (also using cheesecloth) but haven't gotten around to filling it yet. I'll let ya know how it works tomorry, the resistance, and possibly a writeup.
Hi Mitey F,
What did you use as a form for rolling the coil?
Someone suggested using a 4-40 machine screw.
Found a video showing how to use a 4040 machine screw to create a new coil.
What did you use as a form for rolling the coil?
Someone suggested using a 4-40 machine screw.
Found a video showing how to use a 4040 machine screw to create a new coil.
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Changed the link address in the second link to take you to post #1 instead of half way down the thread.
I find Kanthal on eBay for about $10 per 100 ft. Try the 33 AWG, the rest are overpriced because of the shortage in manufacturing.
I usually get around 1.8 ohms with 3/2 wraps and triple up the legs to prevent hot legs from burning up the grommets. When you remove your coil you'll notice a weld on the coil which I believe is nr wire. Measure out 3/4" for the coil and wrap your legs 3 times over when twisting. I use a toothpick to wrap the coil, seems to fit perfectly in the slot. Slide some cotton through there and your ready to go.
I usually get around 1.8 ohms with 3/2 wraps and triple up the legs to prevent hot legs from burning up the grommets. When you remove your coil you'll notice a weld on the coil which I believe is nr wire. Measure out 3/4" for the coil and wrap your legs 3 times over when twisting. I use a toothpick to wrap the coil, seems to fit perfectly in the slot. Slide some cotton through there and your ready to go.
You can't recoil T3 using simple kanthal wire. You must have no-resistance wire attached to each end of the kanthal or you WILL burn the rubber seal that holds the wire in. Anyone that tells you otherwise has never actually tried it or have no taste buds because not only the burning rubber stings like crap but if you take the seal out you can see the heavy burn marks. Even simple logic will tell you that hot wire will burn rubber but I gave it a go couple of times just for the hell of it and yes it burns.
You need: resistance wire for the coil. Some choose kanthal wire, I personally use 32awg nichrome, which I found here:
Nichrome resistance wire, 32 AWG (gage), 100 feet, for foam cutting, heating etc, $6.00 shipped
2nd thing you need is some cheesecloth, cotton, or silica. I haven't messed around with silica. I've tried cotton swabs. They taste ok at first, but they wear out quickly. I personally have been using cheesecloth for a few weeks with good success. Got mine from Hobby Lobby ($3.49), you'll also find it other at fabric or arts and crafts stores.
Last, just like the video in post #10, get a #4-40 machine screw. The guy that came up with that one WILL get a few beers from me. It's foolproof. You can find those at Home Depot in a 8-pack. I think it was $1.99.
When you're ready to get started, watch the machine screw video, and practice making a couple of coils before you tear down your head. You should also check a few other videos for rebuilds, as all are nearly the same, but here's a couple of other tips I picked up along the way from others who rewick T3's:
If you're using cheescloth with the #4-40 screw, you can try the aforementioned 30/30 method for wicks (like the guy in the cheesecloth thread here), as in 15 strands doubled up through the coil, and another 15 doubled on top of the coil. In my case, the #4-40 screw made the coil big enough that it needed just a little more, so I ended up using approx 20 strands (40 doubled) inside the coil and about 35 on top. No gurgles, no juicing.
After you've re-wicked and are about to reassemble, put ONE DROP of pure 100%VG on the top strands before you replace the tube. Let it sit for about 10 minutes (or 5 if you're impatient like me) so that it soaks in real good through all the strands. It also works if you reassemble and put a small drop on the wicks on both sides, but you should wait a lot longer for it to soak through thoroughly. This is to minimize burning your cheesecloth when you first start lighting up. I bought pure food grade VG also from Hobby Lobby, but you can use a high-VG juice if that's what you have on hand.
I have noticed in daily use that the cheesecloth will give one slightly dry hit, followed by one very dry hit when you're completely empty. I think it's a good thing. Just be sure you have an idea that you need to refill that sucker before you head out to the bar, 'cause it's not subtle, and it happens fast.
When you do it right, the cheesecloth should go a few weeks without burning.
Nichrome resistance wire, 32 AWG (gage), 100 feet, for foam cutting, heating etc, $6.00 shipped
2nd thing you need is some cheesecloth, cotton, or silica. I haven't messed around with silica. I've tried cotton swabs. They taste ok at first, but they wear out quickly. I personally have been using cheesecloth for a few weeks with good success. Got mine from Hobby Lobby ($3.49), you'll also find it other at fabric or arts and crafts stores.
Last, just like the video in post #10, get a #4-40 machine screw. The guy that came up with that one WILL get a few beers from me. It's foolproof. You can find those at Home Depot in a 8-pack. I think it was $1.99.
When you're ready to get started, watch the machine screw video, and practice making a couple of coils before you tear down your head. You should also check a few other videos for rebuilds, as all are nearly the same, but here's a couple of other tips I picked up along the way from others who rewick T3's:
If you're using cheescloth with the #4-40 screw, you can try the aforementioned 30/30 method for wicks (like the guy in the cheesecloth thread here), as in 15 strands doubled up through the coil, and another 15 doubled on top of the coil. In my case, the #4-40 screw made the coil big enough that it needed just a little more, so I ended up using approx 20 strands (40 doubled) inside the coil and about 35 on top. No gurgles, no juicing.
After you've re-wicked and are about to reassemble, put ONE DROP of pure 100%VG on the top strands before you replace the tube. Let it sit for about 10 minutes (or 5 if you're impatient like me) so that it soaks in real good through all the strands. It also works if you reassemble and put a small drop on the wicks on both sides, but you should wait a lot longer for it to soak through thoroughly. This is to minimize burning your cheesecloth when you first start lighting up. I bought pure food grade VG also from Hobby Lobby, but you can use a high-VG juice if that's what you have on hand.
I have noticed in daily use that the cheesecloth will give one slightly dry hit, followed by one very dry hit when you're completely empty. I think it's a good thing. Just be sure you have an idea that you need to refill that sucker before you head out to the bar, 'cause it's not subtle, and it happens fast.
When you do it right, the cheesecloth should go a few weeks without burning.
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This means absolutely nothing without justification.
Please explain why you say that.
Posted right above me, and not the first time I'd seen that:
That's added necessity for the wire, and I have seen no other value in kanthal vs nichrome that warrants taking the extra step and precautions for the coil. The OP stated he had neither. So, given that it's not like he has kanthal lying around (free) and just needs to use no-resistance wire with it, he'll end up having to buy the kanthal or the nichrome.
My money's on nichrome. Similar price, less hassle, same results.
That's added necessity for the wire, and I have seen no other value in kanthal vs nichrome that warrants taking the extra step and precautions for the coil. The OP stated he had neither. So, given that it's not like he has kanthal lying around (free) and just needs to use no-resistance wire with it, he'll end up having to buy the kanthal or the nichrome.
My money's on nichrome. Similar price, less hassle, same results.
I coiled with Nichrome no burning seal at all 3 months later at 2.3 ohms, 4/5 wrap on a mini screw driver then compress it to make a tight coil I have great results with 4 strands of 1 mm silica. In the coil no overwick. Works great. The hard part it getting the coil to fit the tiny area and making sure thee are no shorts . It's kind of difficult to get it back together for sure
That's absolute rubbish - I've rebuilt 20 or 30 with straight Kanthal (as they do when they're manufactured) they're perfect.
By the way, the rubber seal is silicone - it doesn't burn because the heat is at the coil, not at the contact.
You don't need to use no resistance wire though.
You can use Nichrome or Kanthal but no resistance is unnecessary unless the connection on the base of the atty is far away from the coil head, it's got nothing to do with heat and everything to do with resistance.
The T3 head is tiny as are most of the other clearos/tank devices on the market today - no resistance wire isn't required unless you're using an Odysseus or a Killer/dripper.
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