What qualities make a mech mod good?

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Thrasher

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materials.
No mystery metals in the pins etc

tolerances
- are the threads all sloppy loose or are they tight and smooth. This is even more important the more sections you add like the nemesis. It is several small tubes put together for a longer tube. So you have all those connections in the current path now, so they better be good and snug.

How well is the button made,
if it is a bottom fire mod is the button spring loaded?
if the spring is used for contact is it some cheap steel junk or did they use a nice heavy brass or equivalent.

If the button is direct contact how smooth is it and when i wiggle it is it sloppy loose or is snug. The sides of the button make contact with the sides of the shaft so the sloppier it is usually means less contact.

Finally just the mod metal itself, the weakest link in the build can kill even the best mods.

In the early clones they didnt get this stuff and just threw some tubes together with crappy springs and sloppy threads with strange pins and stuff. Now many of the clones are following the designs and tolerances of the originals and are just as good performance wise.

So its knows i own both so i dont take sides lol
 
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93gc40

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If you like it - Its a GOOD mod.

If you do NOT like it. - It's a bad mod.

- What qualities make a mech mod good (copper body, magnets, non telescopic, etc? Copper provides best electrical conductivity, stainless the weakest, Toss-up between cvopper and aluminum for lest durable
- What are voltage drop offs on mech mods? The farther and more connections electricty has to go the less is transmitted. 99.9999999% of all vapors will never notice Volt drop without the use of a meter to tell them it's even happening. Also only applies to those vaping at dead short areas of under .5ohm, or real high power levels.
- Spring vs magnets on mech mods? MEH, pure preference. magnets are theoretically guieter.
 

WattWick

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In my mind it's not about magnets or springs. It's about button design and even more importantly - quality manufacturing. Take the GP Paps button. Still considered to be one of the best. It's a very basic design with a spring. Difference from many other mods is in their manufacturing tolerances. The parts simply fit better and thus moves smoother.

I think the notion that 'magnets are better' stem from the tons of Nemesis clones that had shoddy buttons. Poorly machined and gritty movement. In this case, magnets could help stabilize the button and make it somewhat smoother. So - in some cases magnets may make a difference. In most other cases, I'd say it's a matter of personal preference.

As long as a mod doesn't have a nasty voltage drop - all else is ergonomics and personal preferences, IMHO. Size, button design, locking mechanism design. Material. Battery rattle adjustment. 'Feel'. Etc and so on.
 

Thrasher

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Trust me i think most of us go through it looking for the next shiny that promises a miracle vape. took me quite a while, and more money then i care to admit, to learn the art of tuning my gear instead of trying to spend my way into vaping bliss.

Tryin to convince someone now you dont need these crazy psycotic builts running 5 zillion watts to get a wicked vape. Lol
 

roxynoodle

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For me, I look for ease of use (comfortable, nice switch), craftsmanship (parts all thread well), reputation (are there known problems? What are they?), material of contacts, and that its rated well for voltage drop. I'm not worried about having the least amount of voltage drop; just that its not bad. But, I'll never win a cloud competition as there aren't Old Lady With Half Fried Lungs divisions :laugh:
 

Light Seeker

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Agree, used to be very concerned with voltage drop on clones.... Have a few that were ridiculously high, something like .8v and now make good hammers, but seems China stepped up machining and materials so thankfully those days are gone. Still on the checklist, but button smoothness, 510, machining, and aesthetics are first things I look at.
 

diddlepants

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For me it is SIMPLICITY. I have a King clone that drives me absolutely bananas. I spend more time taking it apart to tighten screws than vaping on it. When it is clean the negative contact pin always comes loose and extends the button so I can't press it. The positive contact is always shaking itself tight so that the battery doesn't make contact. When it is dirty it stays tight but the threading burns my hand when i sub-ohm with my dripper. When i unlock the button locking nut it unscrews the whole button assembly off the bottom and i have to tighten it with needle nose pliers.

Oh how I pine for a Praxis!!!
 

Thrasher

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Aesthetics are on my list, too, but I'm also known to buy ones that are plain. I have a Paps clone. Its a plain SS tube. But, oh, I love that switch! I'm getting an authentic as soon as I can afford one.

Get the senio hybrid dripper for it and plain or not it is the bomb for classy style
n6qkGkt.jpg
 

bullet08

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how easy to use is on the top. don't know anything about V drop. i know i like SMPL and penny because of ease of use. simple design that works all the time. praxis is nice, but it's not too easy to use. 4nine is nice, but everytime i change battery, i gotta mesa with magnet. nemesis is nice, but i have to unscrew forever to take battery out... simple easy to use design is what i look for.
 

WattWick

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how easy to use is on the top. don't know anything about V drop. i know i like SMPL and penny because of ease of use. simple design that works all the time. praxis is nice, but it's not too easy to use. 4nine is nice, but everytime i change battery, i gotta mesa with magnet. nemesis is nice, but i have to unscrew forever to take battery out... simple easy to use design is what i look for.

You'll know when you encounter it. I'm not one to nitpick v-drop for clouds and such. Still, a couple of my mods have such a bad voltage drop that they give a comparatively anemic vape - and batteries have to be swapped out much more frequently.
 
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