What would cause my coils to burn black in less than a day?

[Carl2]

The cover for the deck has two holes drilled on each side, it came with the kit supplied, I ordered one and it is the same. I've already ordered another rba tank and will probably wait for that to arrive before working on it again.
As for the Kanger atomizer I took out I could see it was completely black in there, the atomizer didn't come apart but it didn't work so I ripped it apart, took out the cotton and the coil. The black must have fell off the coil and was completely clean.
I've heard the build up is burnt sugar, first the sugar melts and turns to liquid carmel, continued heating causes the sugar to burn changing it to carbon.

 

[Continuity]

The rba refers to the cylindrical metal thing that takes the place of the pre-built replacement heads.

You can take apart, and even rebuild, the Kanger Subtank disposable heads - there's loads of videos on YouTube on how to do so.

It's quite easy, actually, to just rewick the disposable heads when they gunk up. Just remove the old wick, clean and dry burn the coil, and then rewick with new cotton. Saves quite a lot of money.

 

[Carl2]

I've been watching video's on YouTube, I found a few that covered just what I wanted to see, one on putting a coil and wick in the RBA, I didn't realize the top of the cover came off, and one on rebuilding a bad atomizer, I had thought I'd seen something on rebuilding the atomizer. Thanks much on the help you've offered.

 

[MacTechVpr]

The RBA refers to the cylindrical metal thing that takes the place of the pre-built replacement heads.

You can take apart, and even rebuild, the Kanger Subtank disposable heads - there's loads of videos on YouTube on how to do so.

It's quite easy, actually, to just rewick the disposable heads when they gunk up. Just remove the old wick, clean and dry burn the coil, and then rewick with new cotton. Saves quite a lot of money.

Yes, you certainly can. I introduced a strain oxidized (tensioned) three-post wind for the OCC back in Dec '14…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | Page 126 | Post #2501. The most stable clearomizer coil I've worked with and a heck of a lot of wetted contact surface for the ST's.

But no fear of gunking these up. A low voltage dry burn and some micro drops of distilled water to steam away any accretion and you're ready to roll. These are installed centered through the juice holes to allow for easy balancing of lead separation and tension. As these are more stable they last longer than single wire or parallels in the RDA.

Good luck.

 

[Carl2]

Interesting work you have been involved in. I have an order coming in later today which includes a Vaporesso Gemini RTA, some Clapton coils, and a Wisemec notch coil, that is a formed ribbon wire. It should be handy to have another tank. The Vaporesso is dual coil but at this time I'd rather have a single coil which is simpler, the unit is 75 watts so I have plenty of power, I guess I could put 2 coils double resistance in parallel or 2 coils 1/2 resistance in series. Most people seem to feel vertical coils provide more flavor so I'll probably give that a try.

 

[sofarsogood]

The cover for the deck has two holes drilled on each side, it came with the kit supplied, I ordered one and it is the same. I've already ordered another RBA tank and will probably wait for that to arrive before working on it again.
As for the Kanger atomizer I took out I could see it was completely black in there, the atomizer didn't come apart but it didn't work so I ripped it apart, took out the cotton and the coil. The black must have fell off the coil and was completely clean.
I've heard the build up is burnt sugar, first the sugar melts and turns to liquid carmel, continued heating causes the sugar to burn changing it to carbon.

When I was using pre-mix liquid my coils would be severely gunked up every 48 hours. I dry burned and rewicked every 2 days. It seemed I was rebuilding once a week.

DIY changed things. I use the absolute minimum amount of flavoring, 1.5%, rewick about twice a week and rebuild every 2-3 weeks. My coils turn black over the weeks but only a trivial amount of gunk builds up. I don't understand all the dynamics but I'm done with pre-mix for a bunch of reasons.

One of the reasons I can get by with so little flavoring is the SV rda clone I favor is very good at flavor. It doesn't leak in my pocket if the air supply is covered by an tall slip ring. With temp control an rda is not less convenient than tanks. Redripping takes me 10 seconds x 14 = a few minutes. The SV is less time to rewick or rebuild than the tanks I used to use.

 

[Carl2]

I've looked at supplies for making flavoring but probably won't try it for a time since I'm learning to make coils at this time. When I first started vaping after a bit of time I felt something was missing and tried my pipe again, the tobacco flavor was missing. I bought more tobacco flavored e liquid at 3 times the flavor strength which puts it in the ball park.
I'm still waiting for supplies, I built a coil winding jig using some hobby tubing, makes a pretty good coil, next I need something to hold the deck for putting on the coil and wicking. I think I know but still have to see if the leak will stop.
I always use the temp mode, I had to use the watt mode while waiting for atomizers and there was a delay in the coil getting to temp I didn't like

 

[stalkster]

Coil gunk in my experience.
Juice>
1: Sweetner
2: EM
3: Dark flavoring
4:Bakery flavoring

Watts>
1: To high temp/wattage for the wicking/tank, easy sign burnt/dark cotton.

Wicking>
1: Not properly wicked.

Cleaning built coils:
All are used in a careful manor>
1: burn coils to red, let cool. Fill a small clear cup of water, burn coil to red dip just coils in water not past deck, repeat 1more time.
2: As above but use sink with small strand of water.

I'm a DIY builder/juice and vape bakery 90% of the time. Replace cotton every 2-4days, clean coils once a week.

 

[Carl2]

I didn't receive the order yesterday as expected, seems I have to wait till Monday. I don't think I'd want to be changing cotton every 2-4 days, guess I'm lucky my atomizer lasted about a month.

 

[stalkster]

I didn't receive the order yesterday as expected, seems I have to wait till Monday. I don't think I'd want to be changing cotton every 2-4 days, guess I'm lucky my atomizer lasted about a month.

I'm not sure the size but think it's like 180pieces of JP cotton last me 6months rewicking like 2-3times a week. I'm drunk and cant read Japanese but i think it's 180-200pieces for about 12-15$. If your buying 5pices for 5-10$ stop and just look on ebay/amazon for 180-200 pieces for 12~15$. If your building clapton/fused clapton/alien coils they should last 1-3months easy assuming you clean them.

 

[stalkster]

180 piece 8.28$

 

[MacTechVpr]

Interesting work you have been involved in. I have an order coming in later today which includes a Vaporesso Gemini RTA, some Clapton coils, and a Wisemec notch coil, that is a formed ribbon wire. It should be handy to have another tank. The Vaporesso is dual coil but at this time I'd rather have a single coil which is simpler, the unit is 75 watts so I have plenty of power, I guess I could put 2 coils double resistance in parallel or 2 coils 1/2 resistance in series. Most people seem to feel vertical coils provide more flavor so I'll probably give that a try.

Sorry I missed your reply. You're quite the experimenter yourself.

Since you have a jig already, you're halfway there. Carl, strain is in everything. Balancing the strain in an element stabilizes it. Take that a step further, use tension to wind and you lock that internal and external symmetry in place...

Tehnsioned Contact Micro Coil, MacTechVpr

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 25, 2015
• coil contact tensioned

Using a pin vise or jig you can create the above uniform wind in seconds. The advantage you gain is a precisely repeatable contact circuit ready for oxidation. It's this last process that makes it optimally functional. Most efficient thermal source in the most compact area for its mass. The excellent baseline to compare against others for maximal performance. And it's just easy to do.

Let me know if I can be of help for any question on this. Good luck.

 

[Carl2]

The order arrived yesterday so I have the Vaporesso Gemini RTA with a few coils I ordered. Once again I have leaking problems. I watched some vids on the unit and they had many good things to say about it, they did some builds wicking and everything was great for them. I was finally able to put together a coil (Clapton) with wick which leaked slow enough so I could puff on it, good flavor, great draw the deck is easier to work with. The Clapton coils require the watts mode which I don't care for so I'm winding nickel coils. I'm thinking 2 double resistance in parallel to give me the total resistance of one.
I also saw a very nice set up for winding coils in one of the vids. Link :

 

[MacTechVpr]

Unbalanced duals may produce very irregularly, unequally and basically end up tasting like monkey dung. Great clouds tho…mebe, or zilch. Hard to predict. Video user doesn't understand the impact of irregular end turn symmetry or intermittent close contact. Winds fire at center and exceedingly hot compared to outboard turns evidenced by the rapid oxidation of only central turns.

It's unfortunate so many new users are led to the impression that forming coilers deliver a finished product. There is no unicorn method or product you can buy off the shelf. Why I posted on the advantages of strain winding earlier to produce a consistent reliable vape.

Good luck.

 

[Carl2]

I ended up buying the coil winder so I now have it, I played around a while and ended up trying a Clapton in the Vaporesso tank. I wasn't happy with it and saw a video about the Claptons, long heat up time, slow cool down, a hog on the battery draw. I tried some prebuilt stainless steel ribbon wire and I'm pleased with results after putting in the second coil, a small leak but the flavor is the best I've had with the unit, much different from what the Kanger tank offers. I run the Vaporesso tank at 250 F and normally run the Kanger tank at 380 F. The leak must be my wicking. So I am wondering what I see in the background, I had thought of putting a weight at the loose end of the coil wire to keep tension on the wire.