What's a good intermediate device?

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Shawn Hoefer

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If I remember correctly the M80 only has pseudo-tc. It looks like and claims that it's doing tc but it's really not, at all.

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The problem was with the frequency it read the resistance. When chain vaping, when you fired the mod once, it would TC. The second time, it would, almost. The third time, not at all. If your vapes were spaced put over time, it was fine. The algorithm was there, but not the pieces parts...

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ChelsB

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You're not out of your league, but a little patience goes a long ways...

What are the settings on your mod at present, and what resistance is displayed when the TCT tank is attached?

Also, what wire are you using to build your Kayfun?

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Using 26 g kanthal for the kayfun. Is that the appropriate guage a beginner?


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DingerCPA

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Using 26 g kanthal for the kayfun. Is that the appropriate guage a beginner?


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To what resistance are you trying to build your coil? Which kayfun? I had the KF lite and 3.1ES, but now have the V3 Mini and a V5. I find these latter two more forgiving. I have a 26g Nichrome build in my V5, 1.25 ohms running about 16W. It's working for *me*
 

ChelsB

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To what resistance are you trying to build your coil? Which kayfun? I had the KF lite and 3.1ES, but now have the V3 Mini and a V5. I find these latter two more forgiving. I have a 26g Nichrome build in my V5, 1.25 ohms running about 16W. It's working for *me*

It's the v5. I was copying what someone I knew was doing, wrapping 8 turns. They usually turn out around 0.5 ohms...is that too low for a beginner?


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Eskie

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It's the v5. I was copying what someone I knew was doing, wrapping 8 turns. They usually turn out around 0.5 ohms...is that too low for a beginner?


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8 turns of 26G Kanthal should come out way higher than 0.5 ohm. What were you wrapping around? Typically 2.5 mm or 3 mm ID should work nicely in there and 8 turns should get you over 1 ohm.
 

Shawn Hoefer

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@Eskie is right. If you're getting .5 ohms with 26 AWG KA1, you must be wrapping around a 1 mm mandrel. On a 2.5 mm mandrel, you'd get .9 ohms. I imagine trying to wick a 1 mm ID coil could lead to issues...

Interestingly enough, a 2.5 mm 26 AWG SS316L 8 wrap coil is almost exactly .5 ohms... could your wire be wrong?

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Cheallaigh

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a cheapish mod that has TC that works would be better if you're using a tank that requires TC. i'm using kanger kbox 75w minis, their TC works well(at least with Ni and SS, i've not bought any Ti coils/wire). i really prefer using mine with wattage though. even though it can go up as high as 75w, i rarely run over 35 watts and usually vape a .2 to .5 at 22.5w, it happens to be the sweet spot for my juices/setup. i like a 28g wire whether it be SS316L or kanthal 2.5mm inner diameter 5 full wraps will give me usually .5 for a single.
 

daviedog

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Buy a 2, 2.5, 3mm drill bits.
Buy new wire,,tempco 26, 28 awg. Kanthal or SS, both maybe.
Buy an ohm checker or DMM.

Dont rely on loops or wraps to determine resistance. Resistance is determined by length & awg. Period.
If your coils are breaking, think shorts or hotspots.
Kayfuns work best at .8 to 1.2 ohms. Not really designed to be a sub ohm Dragon.
Command & Control of your atomizer is the surest way to enjoying your vape..
 
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DingerCPA

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It's the v5. I was copying what someone I knew was doing, wrapping 8 turns. They usually turn out around 0.5 ohms...is that too low for a beginner?

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That's not "too low for a beginner". You need to think about wicking - making sure you get just enough juice to the coil - but not too much. It's a "dance" :)

I like a 2.5mm or a 3mm diameter coil (usually 3mm) for my kayfuns. Let's me get a lot of wicking material in there (sometimes cotton, sometimes rayon) If you're using cotton, you want the wick to "just feel snug" as you pull it through. With Rayon, I compress it so I can get more in the same diameter and it will feel tighter pulling it through. If you don't have mm-based drill bits, you could use a 3/32" (approx 2.5mm) or a 1/8" (just over 3mm) for equivalency.

There's a great website - steam-engine.org that gives you some ideas about coil diameters and wraps and gauges to get you to various resistances. It will take a little bit of practice, but you can soon get the hang of it. One thing that I always forget is the "leg length" when I'm using Steam-Engine. That factors into your ending resistance - I'll "think" I'm getting something specific, but when it's installed, it is different - usually because I don't have a good measurement of the legs. My thing is that as long as the coil is safe for the device on which it's running, I'm less cracked about getting a "specific" resistance. I often just take wire and wrap anywhere from 6-10 times, install, wick and go. My resistances vary from 0.8-1.2Ω for a single coil.
 

ChelsB

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@Eskie is right. If you're getting .5 ohms with 26 AWG KA1, you must be wrapping around a 1 mm mandrel. On a 2.5 mm mandrel, you'd get .9 ohms. I imagine trying to wick a 1 mm ID coil could lead to issues...

Interestingly enough, a 2.5 mm 26 AWG SS316L 8 wrap coil is almost exactly .5 ohms... could your wire be wrong?

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Not sure if my answer posted?


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ChelsB

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@Eskie is right. If you're getting .5 ohms with 26 AWG KA1, you must be wrapping around a 1 mm mandrel. On a 2.5 mm mandrel, you'd get .9 ohms. I imagine trying to wick a 1 mm ID coil could lead to issues...

Interestingly enough, a 2.5 mm 26 AWG SS316L 8 wrap coil is almost exactly .5 ohms... could your wire be wrong?

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I used a 1/16th screwdriver. I tried 28 g kanthal last night in the kayfun with limited success. At least the coil didn't break[emoji1] (small victory) but after 4 hits, it tastes totally burned. I made sure to prime the wick very well so I don't think that is it. I also let it sit for a few hours to fully saturate the wick.
Any thoughts? Sorry if this is duplicate I am having problems with posting/ quoting


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sketchness

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I used a 1/16th screwdriver. I tried 28 g kanthal last night in the kayfun with limited success. At least the coil didn't break[emoji1] (small victory) but after 4 hits, it tastes totally burned. I made sure to prime the wick very well so I don't think that is it. I also let it sit for a few hours to fully saturate the wick.
Any thoughts? Sorry if this is duplicate I am having problems with posting/ quoting


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Getting closer, 1/16th is roughly 1.5mm, so it is very small and difficult to get it to wick correctly. I had this problem when I first started, building on a Fogger. Look for something a little larger to wrap coils on and try again. You just figured out one more build that doesn't work. And like you said at least the coil didn't pop.

Additionally after you build, wick, and prime you should be able to give it a try. Wait ten minutes if it makes you less nervous. Give it a couple primer puffs without power button and then give it a whirl.
 

Flt Simulation

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I had adjusted the temp but when I push the fire button it displays watts. This is why I was thinking I am just not experienced enough for this device.

Using 26 g Kanthal for the Kayfun.

Is that the appropriate guage a beginner?


So, your using Kanthal 26 gauge wire to make your coil, and then trying to use your mod in the Temp Control mode ?

Kanthal wire is not compatible with Temp Control ... That's more than likely why your mod goes back into the Power mode (watts) when you press the fire button.
 

Falco78

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Yes, I can't imagine needing or wanting to vape at 80w!


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While I understand not seeing that need it is great to have a device capable of meeting this should you want it to. I personally love the RX200 and RX200S but it is a bit of a larger mod and will require a minimum of 3 18650 batteries while I'd recommend having at least 6. I have had no need to use mine beyond 80 watts as of yet but I know I will be building some coils where 100+ is needed

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