Gonna be modding some boxes and want a good soldering station and info would be great.
Also gonna need some good solder too.
Thx
Also gonna need some good solder too.
Thx
What's the best soldering station
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How much are you looking to spend?
I like the Weller WES51 ($75-$100us), mainly because it's easier to get Weller tips locally (and more variety) than other brands. Though I went with the analog dial instead of their nicer, but more expensive ($150) digital one (WESD51).
There's also their cheaper consumer grade one ($50-$75us): WLC100, but it's 40W instead of 50W, and has 1-5 instead of actual numbers for the temperature, still good enough if all you intend it for is e-cig assembly.
Hakko-888 is a competitor, never used that particular model, but I've used other Hakko models in my line of work, IMHO they're comparable to a Weller.
I like the Weller WES51 ($75-$100us), mainly because it's easier to get Weller tips locally (and more variety) than other brands. Though I went with the analog dial instead of their nicer, but more expensive ($150) digital one (WESD51).
There's also their cheaper consumer grade one ($50-$75us): WLC100, but it's 40W instead of 50W, and has 1-5 instead of actual numbers for the temperature, still good enough if all you intend it for is e-cig assembly.
Hakko-888 is a competitor, never used that particular model, but I've used other Hakko models in my line of work, IMHO they're comparable to a Weller.
Solder is sort of a personal-preference thing.
Personally, I'd lead-free silver-bearing (personal quirk, plus most electronics are lead-free anymore, and it's easier if you use a matching solder) and rosin core (AKA RMA) -- cleanup is optional (with IPA or Everclear) without worrying about it corroding things, unlike water-soluble flux, and you can get RMA flux in paste form, which is easier to have in a toolbox than liquid.
Either 0.03" or 0.04" size (Though personal preference applies here, too).
IMHO, unless you want a lifetime supply and then some, it's best something picked up locally.
Note on lead-free: don't use plumbing solder - it has acid-core flux, good for copper plumbing that gets soldered with a torch and rinsed off after, not so kind to electronics or the life of your tip.
Personally, I'd lead-free silver-bearing (personal quirk, plus most electronics are lead-free anymore, and it's easier if you use a matching solder) and rosin core (AKA RMA) -- cleanup is optional (with IPA or Everclear) without worrying about it corroding things, unlike water-soluble flux, and you can get RMA flux in paste form, which is easier to have in a toolbox than liquid.
Either 0.03" or 0.04" size (Though personal preference applies here, too).
IMHO, unless you want a lifetime supply and then some, it's best something picked up locally.
Note on lead-free: don't use plumbing solder - it has acid-core flux, good for copper plumbing that gets soldered with a torch and rinsed off after, not so kind to electronics or the life of your tip.
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Hey thx a bit lost but I can figure it out at the store lol.
I would think home depot is a good place?
Or is radio shack better?
Thx
Oh, and I edited my above post, if you go with lead-free, you want the silver-bearing kind (works better for electronics).
Home Depot/Lowes not so much -- they'll likely have stuff that's much too large.
You want a hobby shop or a place that sells electronics parts and tools.
RS is usually a last resort because you'll pay 2-3 times what you should.
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Admittedly, solder is one of those things where pricing is goofy. You can spend 7-10 dollars and get a few feet, or spend 40-50 and have enough to leave to your grandchildren, but then you'll decide you want a different size.
Okay, after much poking of the internets, I found this:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-1047
Flux paste (I use q-tips, use it sparingly)
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/200-385
The downside of the silver bearing lead free is that it's more expensive than leaded or tin-copper-only lead free. IMHO, the tin-copper is more of a pain to solder with though (higher melting point, tending to go lumpy and not stick).
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I'd definitely go with a Weller iron...they are work horses. (I have 4 or 5 out in my leaded glass equipment)
And a + on the "silver solder"...for mod soldering, a pound roll will last forever.
Flux...I'd suggest nokorode, it's easy to work with and cleans up easily.
You can also pick these items up at stained glass supply places.
And a + on the "silver solder"...for mod soldering, a pound roll will last forever.
Flux...I'd suggest nokorode, it's easy to work with and cleans up easily.
You can also pick these items up at stained glass supply places.
Lol you got me looking at lead-free solders- I think I will pick up some like this 4% silver, lower(180 C) melting temperature. 'Eutectic' type solders seems to be preferred for the way the various component metals solidify at the same time -
"First, you want a eutetic solder, ie. a solder where the phase transition between liquid an solid state is practically immediate. For a non-eutetic solder this takes place over a temperature interval and thus takes some time to happen. During this transition phase the joint is very sensitive to vibrations which may cause a cold joint. The ordinary 63SN/37Pb solder is eutetic with an almost immediate transition at 183 deg. C, while the 60Sn/40Pb is not eutetic, having a phase transition starting already at 190 deg C and ending at 183 deg C. There are also some lead free solders that are eutetic." (Christer, diyAudio forum). For general electronic soldering, I have been using Kester 44 63%tin/37%lead like this which works well. I have been very satisfied with the Hakko fx-888 station (Amazon) for what hobby-type work I do. It heats quickly and maintains temp well (plus it's colorful ha). Cheers.
"First, you want a eutetic solder, ie. a solder where the phase transition between liquid an solid state is practically immediate. For a non-eutetic solder this takes place over a temperature interval and thus takes some time to happen. During this transition phase the joint is very sensitive to vibrations which may cause a cold joint. The ordinary 63SN/37Pb solder is eutetic with an almost immediate transition at 183 deg. C, while the 60Sn/40Pb is not eutetic, having a phase transition starting already at 190 deg C and ending at 183 deg C. There are also some lead free solders that are eutetic." (Christer, diyAudio forum). For general electronic soldering, I have been using Kester 44 63%tin/37%lead like this which works well. I have been very satisfied with the Hakko fx-888 station (Amazon) for what hobby-type work I do. It heats quickly and maintains temp well (plus it's colorful ha). Cheers.
I would suggest MCM for the iron station and Radio Shack for the silver solder for a smaller roll and perfect diameter available.
My Hakko station is over 20 years old and still going strong. I cannot recommend them enough....
A great all-purpose station is the weller wtcp series. Weller started making these stations in the 1950's and continues to do so today. For half a century, Weller has not changed these units, mainly because they are anvils. I still own and use the first one i bought (used) in the 80's for bench duties. It has thermostatic tips for any temp and every application known to man, no lie! The coolest things about these units: 1.they last forever(hand down to grandkids when ur grip gives out) 2.cheap, high quality tips for any job(surface mount chips to stained glass windows) 3.overwhelming professional approval and mfr support(widely available universal spare parts). Pick one up at your local ham radio fest or off ebay or craigs list for $50, then never buy another bench iron in your life. Yes, they are that good.
the hakko is the best on the market. Ive been soldering for many many years. owned 2, and they have never let me down
I work on radio's ie kenwood and the such we have several work benches and they all have weller irons I have one at home on my hobby bench and a portasol portable on my work truck they are all great even when they are 50 + years old.
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