Use 4.2 for safety, and 3.7 for bragging rights.Just wondering when I wrap my coils if I should set my app to calculate the amps at 4.2 or 3.7 for my single cell mech mod with a Sony vtc5 18650.
Yes those things haha long day..volts?
I must be out of touch.
I got it figured out. Single coil fused clapton.
You determine your build's target resistance according to the battery's amp rating (continuous discharge rate) that you will be using on a mech. Never exceed the amp draw of your battery.So When I calculate at 4.2 and I get 20.01 haha am I playing with fire? I have not surpassed 16a on any of my builds I have put on my mech since it is single cell
Did the post screw short out against the topcap or body of the atomizer? Otherwise, I don't see how loosening a connection would drop the resistance. Wouldn't it increase it?First off, I measured the resistance of my atty. It measured 0.1 ohm -- a drop of 0.5 ohms. What had happened was the post screw for one end of the coils had become loose. I tightened the screw and remeasured the resistance. 0.6 ohm.
I don't think it's a linear relationship. Had you been using a .3 build, do you think it would have still lost .5 and gone negative when the screw became loosened? .1 may well have just been the resistance of the atomizer body itself if the positive screw shorted to the negative topcap/body when it became loose, and bypassed the coil.Had I not had that margin of safety, that 0.5 ohm drop would have caused a hard short.
So the Sony vtc5 is supposedly 25comstsnt discharge but i have read elsewhere it's 20a. Regardless I'm staying under 20a on my builds. When I calculate my coils on the app I use it asks for the power of the battery and I have been putting in 4.2 because that is the full charge voltage
Maybe a crossed wire then when he loosened and retightened it uncrowded the wiresDid the post screw short out against the topcap or body of the atomizer? Otherwise, I don't see how loosening a connection would drop the resistance. Wouldn't it increase it?
I don't think it's a linear relationship. Had you been using a .3 build, do you think it would have still lost .5 and gone negative when the screw became loosened? .1 may well have just been the resistance of the atomizer body itself if the positive screw shorted to the negative topcap/body when it became loose, and bypassed the coil.
I'm not trying to start a fight, I just legitimately don't understand how a good solid connection is going to introduce more resistance compared to an iffy one. A better connection should increase conductivity, not lessen it.
(Also I don't mean to discount the idea of having a safety margin. I just think in this case, it might not be that what saved your skin, so much as that you just noticed the problem right away and didn't continue driving the battery that hard for any length of time.)
(Also also, note that CDR is determined to provide best battery life over time and, as such, already has a significant safety margin built right in. You can actually safely use draws higher than this [see Mooch's MVA - max vaping amps] without issues other than shortened battery life, and potential burns if you touch the hot cells [MVA allows the cells to reach no higher than 100C -- 212F -- during continuous discharge, which is still really hot, but should not make them go POP.])
The vtc5 is 20 amps, the vtc5a is 25 amps.So the Sony vtc5 is supposedly 25comstsnt discharge but i have read elsewhere it's 20a. Regardless I'm staying under 20a on my builds. When I calculate my coils on the app I use it asks for the power of the battery and I have been putting in 4.2 because that is the full charge voltage