The link I posted is for the Protank Aerobase. Make sure you order the correct size. I think there is a link on the page I posted that will take you to the mini Aerobase.
When upgrading, what really matters??
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The link I posted is for the Protank Aerobase. Make sure you order the correct size. I think there is a link on the page I posted that will take you to the mini Aerobase.
Atomizer with good build is the most important part of ecig/medical vaporizer imo
, then juice of course and last the battery.Kayfun lite+ v2 clone
I might of missed it but I didn't see any post where you listed your current setup. It would be easier for others to give advice of what you have now and what it does unless you're using the gas station vape kit still and when you say expensive it varies person to person so someone might picture a vision spinner or ego v as expensive or a evic or vtr expensive or if they use higher end devices they may not.
I have not seen them in B&B's or on most vendor websites yet. That will probable change in a month or two. This product is fairly new.
Coil Rebuilding Videos
1. Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild
2. Nano Micro Coil build for Kanger Protank 2 -- This build is too low for an ego but would be good for a vv/vw devise.
ECF Threads:
1. Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it
2. Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
3. Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
Good vendor for rebuildable supplies (kanthal, ohm reader, butane torch, to name a few): Lightening Vapes
Organic cotton can be purchased at most grocery/walmart/CVS stores.
If you click on my "signature line" the Steam Engine is a great website with lots of calculators for vapers (ohms law, coil wrapping, DIY, etc.).
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It's in my first post. These are for me and my wife. I have an Ego Twist 1100mah and an x6 battery. I use a Protank 2 clone that came with the x6 and Kanger Mini Pro 3 tanks with 1.8 ohm coils.
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Well yes and no, within the confines of what a Kayfun is capable of. A kayfun is a flavor machine, and it will work very well with many different builds, thus, on many different devices. A Kayfun is not necessarily a fog machine, and it doesn't work very well sub ohm because it simply cannot wick enough juice. If you are looking for a topper that performs well day in and day out, has great taste and vapor production, and never leaks, a Kayfun is a good bet.
I build mine between 1.2 and 2 ohms, and usually run it on my SVD or VMAX. It is my go to tank, along with my rebuilt PT2's. If you are looking for lots of vapor, get an RDA. There are many good ones out there. They are generally easy to build, and sub ohm pretty well. You will need a device or a mech mod and sufficient battery for that. Again, research here and ask questions. I am using a DNA30 mod for my sub ohm stuff; there are many out there, from $$$ top of line to less expensive clones.
Good luck, and welcome to ECF!
So I'm going to assume now when you said expensive you meant a regulated MOD. So there are some good features with some of them and some useless features.
Some regulated mods have an option of both VV/VW some have one or the other. Some have pass thru ports so you can charge your battery with a micro usb and still vape. Some you can switch batteries inside of them so you won't be stuck without a vape as easily. Some devices let you charge a phone or tablet if you want to for whatever reason. You can see your battery life some tell you how many puffs you have left on your battery some keep track of how many puffs you take a day or since day 1 some have settings that won't let you vape after a set amount of puffs you chose in 24 hrs. Then there are more useless things like pictures or calenders and clocks and date displays.
But, you can usually adjust volts and wattage by 0.1 and can go higher then a VV pen even if you say you don't go beyond 3.7 you might depending on your tank, juice and coil resistance.
Some regulated mods have an option of both VV/VW some have one or the other. Some have pass thru ports so you can charge your battery with a micro usb and still vape. Some you can switch batteries inside of them so you won't be stuck without a vape as easily. Some devices let you charge a phone or tablet if you want to for whatever reason. You can see your battery life some tell you how many puffs you have left on your battery some keep track of how many puffs you take a day or since day 1 some have settings that won't let you vape after a set amount of puffs you chose in 24 hrs. Then there are more useless things like pictures or calenders and clocks and date displays.
But, you can usually adjust volts and wattage by 0.1 and can go higher then a VV pen even if you say you don't go beyond 3.7 you might depending on your tank, juice and coil resistance.
You can also adjust them as your coil begins to wear to compensate. If something bigger is not for you, or you don't like the box shape of the mvp, try an iTazte VV V3.
BINGO! You hit this right on the head. Too many people recommend the Kayfun to EVERYONE no matter what their needs are. And they FAIL to point out both the +/-'s. And we all know that every piece of hardware has these.
I love my x6!! That said the vaping experience is completely different on my new itaste vv 3.0. The taste is better (yes, using the same tanks that I use on the x6) and the vape production is better. I am not sure why but it is. of course, I don't like the way the big protank looks on the vv, but I do like the look of the mini on it.
Good Luck!
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Good Luck!
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Thanks I think I am getting it now that more expensive bats just have more features. I go above 3.7v but not much or I tend to get that burnt/dry taste so I don't think I would have much reason to upgrade other then that I would like to have one that shows battery life eventually.
So it seems like the best thing for me would be to look into the different wicks for my already adequate tanks to get the best flavor and hits. Anything else I should look into or have missed?
Thanks this has been vey helpful!
Just when I thought I had it figured out I read this! I used to think guitar equipment had a large learning curve!
So it seems like the best thing for me would be to look into the different wicks for my already adequate tanks to get the best flavor and hits. Anything else I should look into or have missed?
Thanks this has been vey helpful!
Just when I thought I had it figured out I read this! I used to think guitar equipment had a large learning curve!
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There is some good advice here, that also reminded me that most if not all regulated mods will read ohms, but only to the second number ie: 1.5 ohms and some but NOT all ohm reader will read ie: 1.45 ohms which may make a difference on a regulated device if it won't fire below 1.5 as an example. Just be aware that ohm readers aren't 100% accurate and can go bad I actually had one go bad in about 2 months and need to get a new one just a heads up.
I quickly moved away from these sort of devices, but out of the ones mentioned I would certainly use a Kayfun if I owned it. Probably the only RTA I'd ever use.
I'm a dripper all the way.
1.) Mechanical mod
2.) RDA
4.) 30 amp continuous draw IMR (MNKE, VTC4s)
5.) Twice-boiled organic cotton wicking
6.) .5Ω Twisted Coil
7.) Your favorite juice
Doesn't get any better than that, of course YMMV. But in all honesty it delivers the most reliable, heaviest hitting, cleanest tasting, and most satisfying vape I've had out of any devices I've ever used. Sure you trade off the ability to chain-vape without worrying about getting a dry or burnt hit, but manual dripping is a skill that's easily learned. Could always get a bottom feeder too if squonking floats your boat but I like the accuracy I get from dripping by hand.
I am NOT recommending you sub-ohm vape, but as myself and many others know, these setups are top-quality in terms of performance and vape quality.
Check it out
I'm a dripper all the way.
1.) Mechanical mod
2.) RDA
4.) 30 amp continuous draw IMR (MNKE, VTC4s)
5.) Twice-boiled organic cotton wicking
6.) .5Ω Twisted Coil
7.) Your favorite juice
Doesn't get any better than that, of course YMMV. But in all honesty it delivers the most reliable, heaviest hitting, cleanest tasting, and most satisfying vape I've had out of any devices I've ever used. Sure you trade off the ability to chain-vape without worrying about getting a dry or burnt hit, but manual dripping is a skill that's easily learned. Could always get a bottom feeder too if squonking floats your boat but I like the accuracy I get from dripping by hand.
I am NOT recommending you sub-ohm vape, but as myself and many others know, these setups are top-quality in terms of performance and vape quality.
Check it out
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So the burnt taste has other factors beyond just set voltage. Dual coil tanks can handle more voltage than a single coil tank also the type of juice you're using, higher VG and darker liquids and liquids with sweetener needs higher voltage to vaporize. Thinner liquid and usually lighter liquids will burn easier and what I noticed from when I used bottom coil tanks especially a protank, but I just a single coil protank it didn't work well for me beyond 3.6 Volts, BUT in case you aren't aware the protank coils come in different resistance of 1.8, some where between 2.0-2.2, 2.4or 2.5 and 2.8 ohms which changes the vape a lot, the lower the resistance in a protank the more likely to get a burnt taste at higher volts.
Lack of airflow control (in my old mini PT) was responsible for my "dry hits" When I fixed that problem, I was able to go higher. I can almost guarantee that you will want to (at least on some of your flavors)!
Note: I use a 50/50 PG/VG blend.
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The reason you currently don't go higher is because of the "burnt taste". Lack of airflow is responsible for this. When you fix that problem, you will be able to go higher. I can almost guarantee that you will want to (at least on some of your flavors)!
I know they come in different resistances but did not know that my 1.8 coils could cause the burnt taste. Is there a difference in using a higher ohm coil with more voltage and using a lower ohm one with less voltage?
I am defiantly going to try the airflow thing before I do anything else. I have three Mini Pro's for different flavors so first I will try opening the holes on one to get an idea f that is what I need.
I quickly moved away from these sort of devices, but out of the ones mentioned I would certainly use a Kayfun if I owned it. Probably the only RTA I'd ever use.
I'm a dripper all the way.
1.) Mechanical mod
2.) RDA
4.) 30 amp continuous draw IMR (MNKE, VTC4s)
5.) Twice-boiled organic cotton wicking
6.) .5Ω Twisted Coil
7.) Your favorite juice
Doesn't get any better than that, of course YMMV. But in all honesty it delivers the most reliable, heaviest hitting, cleanest tasting, and most satisfying vape I've had out of any devices I've ever used. Sure you trade off the ability to chain-vape without worrying about getting a dry or burnt hit, but manual dripping is a skill that's easily learned. Could always get a bottom feeder too if squonking floats your boat but I like the accuracy I get from dripping by hand.
I am NOT recommending you sub-ohm vape, but as myself and many others know, these setups are top-quality in terms of performance and vape quality.
Check it out
I love my mechanical mods and drippers and use them 98% of the time, but I don't think this is a good time to recommend this setup since the OP just started vaping over a month ago.
The reason you currently don't go higher is because of the "burnt taste". Lack of airflow is responsible for this. When you fix that problem, you will be able to go higher. I can almost guarantee that you will want to (at least on some of your flavors)!
Did I say something wrong that my post was quoted, little tired and confused???
ALSO you could be getting a burnt taste because your coil can't wick as fast to complete your style of vaping and make sure you always keep your tank at least 1/4 full.
Higher resistance=more battery usage and a tighter draw and makes it a longer vape, I don't remember if it made any real difference in heat since I've not used a protank in awhile. But, the airflow that was suggested should help with more vapor production and can give you a loser draw which is nice to a lot of people who complain the protank is too tight of a draw.
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