Why am i getting dry hits after rewicking Kanger subtank Coil??

[addamvaper]

Hi fellow vapers...

Having purchased the Kanger Subtank Nano recently with 0.5 ohm coils, I decided to rewick my coils instead of forking out a fortune for replacement ones....

I purchased a large bag of "Koh Gen Do 100% organic Japanese cotton make up pads," cut them to size and followed numerous youtube videos....it seemed easy enough, remove the cotton from the original coil, slide through some new fresh cotton to the existing coil, having burnt off any residue, and carefully packed the cotton in the sides...

I made sure the cotton was nice and wet all round, not too tight, not too loose, but for some reason no matter what i do, every five puffs or so i get a horrible, sickening dry hit. I replaced the cotton again, once a bit tighter once a bit looser, and made sure it was saturated well.... But still the dry hits every five or so....

Can someone PLEASE tell me what im doing wrong? After i rewick the inside of the coil looks as good as new...Sm i using the wrong cotton?

I am at a loss and would appreciate any feedback....

Many thanks

 

[suprtrkr]

I've never done it, but obviously you're getting dry hits because it isn't wicking. I can't comment on the Sub, I don't have one. Hopefully you'll see some advice from others who have successfully accomplished the task. But I will suggest you might try rayon rather than cotton.

 

[dcfluegel]

hrm - not sure on that one - only kanger coil rebuilds I have done are the vert rebuilds I did recently and have not thown them in a tank yet... while it does sound like a wicking issue, it also sounds like you were on the right track re-wicking - and the koh gen do type cotton is the same type of cotton they include with the rba, so hypothetically, that should not be the issue (also given that the coils are marketed as OCC coils) - I am guessing you did not have any dry hit issues prior to re-wicking on the original coil?

 

[nyiddle]

having burnt off any residue

This is the second or third time I've seen someone say this. You're not firing your coils with just the cotton (no juice) in there, right? Because that'd absolutely 100% burn the cotton instantaneously. You never dry-burn cotton.

 

[KattMamma]

I'm learning to rewick my subtank occ coils. Have done 5 so far - 3 had too much cotton and gave burnt hits. 1 had too little cotton and caused leaking/flooding. Finally got one that worked (sorta)... I think it may have still had a tad too much cotton, but I had removed the compressed layer from one side which I think helped. I may try removing both compressed layers next time.

Much reading has shown me that those who rebuild coils say the wicking is the hardest part - and it takes practice to get the amount of cotton right. And make sure the cotton isn't getting compressed - it needs to be fluffy to wick properly.

Thankfully cotton is cheap so I can keep trying. I just wish I had a way to test it without risking the dry hits going into my lungs - yuck!!

 

[Carved1120]

It's all about the the proper amount of cotton. Wish I could be me descriptive and helpful and that's it. Also let it sit in the tank for at least 5min before firing.

 

[Off cigs]

Make sure you're not blocking the juice flow channels, and prime the wick well.

 

[jseah]

I'm learning to rewick my subtank occ coils. Have done 5 so far - 3 had too much cotton and gave burnt hits. 1 had too little cotton and caused leaking/flooding. Finally got one that worked (sorta)... I think it may have still had a tad too much cotton, but I had removed the compressed layer from one side which I think helped. I may try removing both compressed layers next time.

Much reading has shown me that those who rebuild coils say the wicking is the hardest part - and it takes practice to get the amount of cotton right. And make sure the cotton isn't getting compressed - it needs to be fluffy to wick properly.

Thankfully cotton is cheap so I can keep trying. I just wish I had a way to test it without risking the dry hits going into my lungs - yuck!!

I use cotton pads to rewick my Subtank OCC coils. I remove the compressed layer from both sides so it wicks really well. I've wicked them too tight (dry hits) and too loose (slight leak). What I've been doing is cutting the pads into strips about 3/8" thick. That seems to be the sweet spot for me with both compressed layers removed.

After I have the coil threaded, I cut the tails so that about 1/8" of wick sticks out of the holes and then I poke the tail into the holes.

 

[NealBJr]

Hi fellow vapers...

Having purchased the Kanger Subtank Nano recently with 0.5 ohm coils, I decided to rewick my coils instead of forking out a fortune for replacement ones....

I purchased a large bag of "Koh Gen Do 100% organic Japanese cotton make up pads," cut them to size and followed numerous youtube videos....it seemed easy enough, remove the cotton from the original coil, slide through some new fresh cotton to the existing coil, having burnt off any residue, and carefully packed the cotton in the sides...

I made sure the cotton was nice and wet all round, not too tight, not too loose, but for some reason no matter what i do, every five puffs or so i get a horrible, sickening dry hit. I replaced the cotton again, once a bit tighter once a bit looser, and made sure it was saturated well.... But still the dry hits every five or so....

Can someone PLEASE tell me what im doing wrong? After i rewick the inside of the coil looks as good as new...Sm i using the wrong cotton?

I am at a loss and would appreciate any feedback....

Many thanks

I rebuild them all the time and have learned to do it pretty effectively. Since I put new coils in, I have different methods for different sizes of coils.

The default coil is rather big. For those, I make sure the cotton is fully inside the chamber, but fully covering the inside of the hole. I take some Muji cotton, and cut enough to be able to roll it into a tube. When you roll the cotton, do not twist it round where the cotton spirals, you just want to shape it round. Roll it between your fingers while letting the other side spin freely. do not pinch down too hard either. it should become fairly round. Too much of a twist, and it turns it into a rope like.. which is not good. more twists = less juice flow. I start off with enough cotton to make it twice as wide as the coil, then shape it round I pinch one end small so I can feed it through the chamber and the coil... then pull it through. any cotton I pinch tight will be cut off.

Quantity of the cotton comes with experience... too much and it will dry hit. Too little, and it will flood. If you twist it too much, it will dry hit.

For the cutting and length, I cut mine as close to the hole as I can get. I also push it in past the coil chamber, where it's on the inside of the chamber, but fully covering the hole. If I was using a 50/50, I might leave some outside of the chamber, but I vape a high percentage of VG, which makes it rather thick.

It all comes up to trial and error. Keep at it. The good thing about the Kanger subtank, is you can work on the coil without wasting all your juice.

 

[jseah]

I rebuild them all the time and have learned to do it pretty effectively. Since I put new coils in, I have different methods for different sizes of coils.

The default coil is rather big. For those, I make sure the cotton is fully inside the chamber, but fully covering the inside of the hole. I take some Muji cotton, and cut enough to be able to roll it into a tube. When you roll the cotton, do not twist it round where the cotton spirals, you just want to shape it round. Roll it between your fingers while letting the other side spin freely. do not pinch down too hard either. it should become fairly round. Too much of a twist, and it turns it into a rope like.. which is not good. more twists = less juice flow. I start off with enough cotton to make it twice as wide as the coil, then shape it round I pinch one end small so I can feed it through the chamber and the coil... then pull it through. any cotton I pinch tight will be cut off.

Quantity of the cotton comes with experience... too much and it will dry hit. Too little, and it will flood. If you twist it too much, it will dry hit.

For the cutting and length, I cut mine as close to the hole as I can get. I also push it in past the coil chamber, where it's on the inside of the chamber, but fully covering the hole. If I was using a 50/50, I might leave some outside of the chamber, but I vape a high percentage of VG, which makes it rather thick.

It all comes up to trial and error. Keep at it. The good thing about the Kanger subtank, is you can work on the coil without wasting all your juice.

When I roll my cotton, I only roll one end of it and just enough to fit through the coil and out the hole on the other side. I then pull it through the coil so that the portion that has been rolled is fully through the coil and out the other hole, so the cotton that is threaded through the coil is not rolled.

I think that is why using cotton pads are better than using cotton calls. For the cotton pads, all of the cotton is already going the same direction.

 

[Alien Traveler]

When I roll my cotton, I only roll one end of it and just enough to fit through the coil and out the hole on the other side. I then pull it through the coil so that the portion that has been rolled is fully through the coil and out the other hole, so the cotton that is threaded through the coil is not rolled.

I think that is why using cotton pads are better than using cotton calls. For the cotton pads, all of the cotton is already going the same direction.

I do the same (not for Subtunk, but for RTAs). And I do not remove outer ("compressed") layers, works fine for me. With all this rolling it is difficult to get consistent results.

 

[addamvaper]

hrm - not sure on that one - only kanger coil rebuilds I have done are the vert rebuilds I did recently and have not thown them in a tank yet... while it does sound like a wicking issue, it also sounds like you were on the right track re-wicking - and the koh gen do type cotton is the same type of cotton they include with the rba, so hypothetically, that should not be the issue (also given that the coils are marketed as OCC coils) - I am guessing you did not have any dry hit issues prior to re-wicking on the original coil?

Correct, no dry hits at all prior to rewicking

 

[addamvaper]

This is the second or third time I've seen someone say this. You're not firing your coils with just the cotton (no juice) in there, right? Because that'd absolutely 100% burn the cotton instantaneously. You never dry-burn cotton.

Definately not!! saturating the wicks well and and primer puffs and leaving for ten minutes before hitting

 

[addamvaper]

MANY thanks to everyone for taking the time to answer this thread...

Yea guys I think i cracked it!! removing the compressed top layers of the cotton pads, keeping it nice and fluffy and not stuffing the tails in the ends. that seemed to be the problem....It needs to be kinda loose and fluffy and not ropey, I was bunching it up a bit too much...

BUT, WHY are dry hits the most disgusting thing in the world ever (rhetorical question) I wonder if they're dangerous at all? Almost put me off vaping for life after to two deep dry lung hits lol.

Thanking Ya'll once again....Wow BTW, vaping people are SO nice and considerate and helpful. Makes all the difference for dip.... newbies like myself

 

[Bunnykiller]

ya know.... my Drippers do the same thing... wet the wick and hit on it 5-6 times and it goes dry...

sounds like juice flow from the tank to the wick is not happening

 

[MoDmAnDaN]

I hope all this info has been helpful to you. When I started re-wicking my subtank coils, I too got a few dry hits and the reason it tastes so bad is your getting a little burnt cotton with that hit.