Why are aw-imr's the way to go?

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nocturn4l3030

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i'm not sure about all the technical terminology, but from what i understand the high drains (aw-imr's) give a more consistent voltage, which is needed for LR atties.

but i believe with big ... batteries like the 18650, the mah(?) is high enough that it gives a consistent voltage for a good amount of time.. so high drains aren't needed

i'm sure that link posted above or someone else will explain it in more depth
 

mlinky

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i'm not sure about all the technical terminology, but from what i understand the high drains (aw-imr's) give a more consistent voltage, which is needed for LR atties.

but i believe with big ... batteries like the 18650, the mah(?) is high enough that it gives a consistent voltage for a good amount of time.. so high drains aren't needed

i'm sure that link posted above or someone else will explain it in more depth

That is pretty much it :)
 

unsure

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Since AW IMR 14500 are on the endanger species list these days and can only be had from China then I (tho I do have my own) would not wait till local vendors restock IF it ment staring at a Mini or Mini Woddvil (when they come out). A un used REO of any kind is a sin. Yes it ideal to have IMRs but in a pinch regular 14500s work just fine! Lecture Over! :)
 

gvil

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Been thinking about this aswell just ordered a mini last week and it hasnt arrived just yet but I do have regular 14500 batteries from a mod laying around which I planned on using.

First the high drain ones seems like its needed for LR attys but is the difference that big if you use standard 2,5ohm atty? Second it migh be a more consistent voltage but the mAh is lower right so it should be less running time on the highdrains?
 

garyinco

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Been thinking about this aswell just ordered a mini last week and it hasnt arrived just yet but I do have regular 14500 batteries from a mod laying around which I planned on using.

First the high drain ones seems like its needed for LR attys but is the difference that big if you use standard 2,5ohm atty? Second it migh be a more consistent voltage but the mAh is lower right so it should be less running time on the highdrains?

Your non-IMR batteries will work fine. The voltage will drop gradually instead of all at once. The "all at once" nature of the IMR's is nice as it obviously tells you its time to switch batteries. I do think the IMR's have a shorter running time, but it is not significant. Hope you get your Reo soon.

One of the things I like about the AW batteries is that their Mah ratings seem accurate. A lot of other companies over-rate theirs. I've had AW batteries last over twice as long as others with more than double the Mah rating. Truth in advertising is a rare thing these days, I guess.
 
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gvil

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Yea I guess that could be handy but also a bad thing, the dropping is a small indicator that you need to change soon if it all drops off at once your caught off guard :p. Guess im gonna have to order some when they get back in stock and try them.

Hoping for it to come soon aswell havent got my first one yet but I still feel like ordering a second one :)
 

mlinky

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Been thinking about this aswell just ordered a mini last week and it hasnt arrived just yet but I do have regular 14500 batteries from a mod laying around which I planned on using.

First the high drain ones seems like its needed for LR attys but is the difference that big if you use standard 2,5ohm atty? Second it migh be a more consistent voltage but the mAh is lower right so it should be less running time on the highdrains?

Here is the reason from http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html:

Power rating for rechargeables

The critical factor for ecig mod use is the C rating (discharge current) in amps. The minimum possible value for safe and effective ecig use is 1 amp (= 1000mA) although ideally it needs to be higher. The ideal rating is 2 amps (2000mA) or better as an atomizer usually draws 1A to 2A.

Chart of C ratings vs size
1C or less for low-quality Li-FePo4
Assume 1C for generic Li-ion unless otherwise noted
1.5C for ultra/sure/trust/-fire Li-ion
2C for AW ICR (Li-ion)
3C for BDL 10440 IMR (Li-Mn)
5C for BDL 14500 IMR (Li-Mn)
8C for AW 14500 and 16340 IMR (Li-Mn)
10C for AW 18650 IMR (Li-Mn)
10C for AW Li-FePo4

Note:
Tenergy etc Li-FePo4 (small cells) - <0.55A (~1C - half an amp or less - not suitable for ecig use)

Max drain rate in amps is C in mAh / 1000 x C rating
Example: an AW IMR Li-Mn 14500 battery has a capacity of 600mAh. The C rating is 8C (it can supply 8 times the capacity). Therefore the max discharge current in amps is:
600 x 8 over 1000 (600 multiplied by 8 divided by 1000)
= 4800 / 1000
= 4.8 amps
This shows it has enough beef to safely and effectively run an atomizer - which some 14500's don't. In other words it is less likely to go into thermal runaway if there is an internal fault in the battery and is then used to power a device that draws a relatively high current such as an atomizer; and it will not suffer from excessive voltage drop when powering the atty.

Useful formulas
Amp draw = voltage / resistance
Example: a 5 volt mod is used with a 2.5 ohm atomizer - what current is drawn?
5 / 2.5 = 2
The battery must supply 2 amps.

Power used by atomizer in Watts = volts x amps, or volts x volts / resistance

Example: a 5 volt mod delivers 2 amps to the 2.5 ohm atty - what power is used?
5 x 2 = 10
The atty uses 10 watts
or
5 x 5 / 2.5 = 10 watts

In your case, your amp draw is 1.48 (3.7/2.5)

To supply the power needed to run that atty, multiply your ****fire C rating (1.5) or generic battery C rating (1) times the mAh of the battery, divide it by 1000, and that will tell you the amps supplied by the battery. If it is below 1.48, you will be overstressing the battery
 

gvil

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Yea the second formula is basic ohms law but doesnt the first one contradict the rating chart or am I not getting something? By the first formula (mAH x c rating / 1000) a standard ultra/sure/trustfire 14500 3,7 v battery only put out 1,425 and I need 1,48 and the chart rates them at 1,5c so everyone who is running 14500 that are not high draing are effectively overstressing their batterys? So no matter what atty youre running highdrains are to be preferred?

If this is the case and my device wants more amps then my battery can deliver should in theory also add to the battery getting warmer and more risk of damage?

Im a bit tired so excuse me if I missed something obvious :p.
 

unsure

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Just an example...

So, if you're using a 3.7 Volt 1000mAh battery, it works out like this:

I = current (amps)
V = voltage (volts)
R = resistance (ohms)

3.7 volts across a 1.5 ohm atomizer:

I = V / R

I = (3.7)/(1.5)
= 2.47 amps = 2 470 mA

This is the current that the atomizer will draw from the battery. To find out how long the battery can deliver this current, you do the following:

time (hours) = mAh/mA
= (1000)/(2 470)
= 0.405 hours

Therefore, with a 1.5 ohm atomizer, a fully charged 1000mAh 3.7 volt battery will last for 0.405 hours (24.3 minutes) of constant use.

Separating this 24.3 minute time frame into 5 second "draws,"

24.3 minutes * (60 seconds)/(1 minute) = 1458 seconds

1458 seconds * (1 draw)/(5 seconds) = 291.6 draws

You can do your own math based on how often you tend to take a draw to determine how long it will last you. My own personal experience is that, with a 650mAh 3.7 volt battery, using a 1.5 ohm atty lasts me about 24 to 36 hours while using the standard 2.2 ohm atty lasts me about 48 to 60 hours."

by Aaaron
 

mlinky

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Yea the second formula is basic ohms law but doesnt the first one contradict the rating chart or am I not getting something? By the first formula (mAH x c rating / 1000) a standard ultra/sure/trustfire 14500 3,7 v battery only put out 1,425 and I need 1,48 and the chart rates them at 1,5c so everyone who is running 14500 that are not high draing are effectively overstressing their batterys? So no matter what atty youre running highdrains are to be preferred?

If this is the case and my device wants more amps then my battery can deliver should in theory also add to the battery getting warmer and more risk of damage?

Im a bit tired so excuse me if I missed something obvious :p.

Yes, it will overstress the battery, but not badly. That is why the AW IMR is really important in the small battery sizes (14500).
 

gvil

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Well ill just ditch muy regulars then when I can order 4 high drain ones then and use the regular ones as a backup :). I know of lighthound but seeing as delivery from USA to Sweden isnt exactly overnight, are there any sites that sell the batteries, atomizers, juice and ship overseas :p ? Figure ill order attys and try some new juice while im ordering.
 

mlinky

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Well ill just ditch muy regulars then when I can order 4 high drain ones then and use the regular ones as a backup :). I know of lighthound but seeing as delivery from USA to Sweden isnt exactly overnight, are there any sites that sell the batteries, atomizers, juice and ship overseas :p ? Figure ill order attys and try some new juice while im ordering.

I would say avidvaper (GREAT atomizers, and I know they ship quickly overseas), but they only sell BDL IMR's which are an inferior high drain battery. We have REOnauts in Spain, Italy, England, etc, so I hope one of them jumps in and gives you some information.
 

Mudflap

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Well ill just ditch muy regulars then when I can order 4 high drain ones then and use the regular ones as a backup :). I know of lighthound but seeing as delivery from USA to Sweden isnt exactly overnight, are there any sites that sell the batteries, atomizers, juice and ship overseas :p ? Figure ill order attys and try some new juice while im ordering.

Wonderlite ships world wide and has a thread in the supplier's sub-forum that details how to order from him.
 
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