Why do VV/VW go up so high?

[K Stub]

No, really, 3-4 WATTS, not volts... It's a Vamo V5, tells me watts, volts, and ohms. Currently vaping a vanilla flavor in an Anyvape Davide Mini tank, 2.5ohm single coil (Kanger), have the Vamo set to 3.0 watts, battery is currently at 3.9 volts. I always keep it on the variable wattage setting, but if I switch over to the variable volts setting, it says I'm @ 3.0 volts as well. I guess I just feel like I've got a ferrari engine running a vw bug? lol Thanks a million you to all for all the input, this whole vaping thing is certainly a learning experience!

 

[Ryedan]

No, really, 3-4 WATTS, not volts... It's a Vamo V5, tells me watts, volts, and ohms. Currently vaping a vanilla flavor in an Anyvape Davide Mini tank, 2.5ohm single coil (Kanger), have the Vamo set to 3.0 watts, battery is currently at 3.9 volts.

I've never used a Vamo, so these are my thoughts from a general vaping perspective. There are two voltages in a regulated mod, battery voltage and mod output voltage. In VV mode, the mod converts the battery voltage to what you have set and gives that to the atty. In VW mode, the mod measures the resistance of the atty, figures out the voltage required to make the watts you set and sets that.

Using Ohm's and Watt's laws in one of the Steam Engine's calculators, setting 3 watts with a 2.5 ohm atty means the mod would have to output 2.74V and 1.1 amps. The Vamo's minimum voltage is 3V. At 3V and with a 2.5 ohm atty you get 3.4 watts and I suspect this is what you're actually vaping with that setup.

I think the 3.9V is as you say the battery voltage. It would be easy to see if that's the case by simply taking out the battery and checking it with a voltmeter.

I always keep it on the variable wattage setting, but if I switch over to the variable volts setting, it says I'm @ 3.0 volts as well.

So you switched to voltage mode from 3 watts (the lowest it does) and it goes to 3V (the lowest it does) of mod output and we know that makes the same 3.4 watts.

It looks like you're vaping at 3.4 watts and 3V. The thing is that 3.4 watts is very low so you can't be getting much vapor out of the device and most people would not be satisfied with this performance. There's nothing wrong with vaping it this way, it's just a little hard to believe this is working for you.

Vape on K Stub

 

[tiburonfirst]

but if i remember right there is no true step-down with the vamo

if the battery is at 3.9v the 3v setting might not mean much and would possibly explain the burnt taste the op is getting

 

[K Stub]

Thank you! That helped explain things some I guess I'll just keep doing what's working for me, even if it doesn't seem to make sense I tried turning the watts up to 7.0, and got that burnt taste, blech I guess the #'s don't matter, as long as I'm safe & happily vaping right? lol

 

[tiburonfirst]

doing what's working is always the best

start low and stop where you feel you get the best results! i'm convinced each atty and each juice need to be dialed in individually

and forget about the numbers showing in the display; they might be far from being accurate

 

[catalinaflyer]

Something is not right, either your mod is not doing what the screen says or your juice is an extremely thick type. A stock coil of almost any make should be able to handle 7 to 8 watts without any problem at all. In fact I have a couple higher end mods that really do output what they say and if I turn a stock single coil down to 3 to 4 watts there's zero vapor production.

I'm going to guess that you started off low with a thick, sweet juice and gunked the coil rater quickly which is now preventing it from wicking causing the burning (of the gunk) when you try to turn it up to a more standard wattage.

As for your original question about why VV/VW devices go so high? Well there are now tanks on the market being advertised as Sub-Ohm (which I totally disagree with that marketing since the term sub-ohm came from the days before higher powered mods when mechanical vapers would build low ohm coils in order to get higher wattages to properly vaporizer larger amounts of juice) that run best in the 20 to 30 watt range. And now with the advent of the higher powered mods it's possible to build coils of a higher resistance in devices that can support the wicking required and get larger volumes of vapor and the larger flavor that comes with it.

 

[USMCotaku]

No, really, 3-4 WATTS, not volts... It's a Vamo V5, tells me watts, volts, and ohms. Currently vaping a vanilla flavor in an Anyvape Davide Mini tank, 2.5ohm single coil (Kanger), have the Vamo set to 3.0 watts, battery is currently at 3.9 volts. I always keep it on the variable wattage setting, but if I switch over to the variable volts setting, it says I'm @ 3.0 volts as well. I guess I just feel like I've got a ferrari engine running a vw bug? lol Thanks a million you to all for all the input, this whole vaping thing is certainly a learning experience!

The vamo, if I remember correctly, can be set to mean or rms regulation, and I would bet dollars to pennies you are in mean mode, which gives you a less accurate reading and hotter vape..... Scroll through your menu till you find the mean/rms options and switch over to rms, you will probably enjoy it more

 

[USMCotaku]

Something is not right, either your mod is not doing what the screen says or your juice is an extremely thick type. A stock coil of almost any make should be able to handle 7 to 8 watts without any problem at all. In fact I have a couple higher end mods that really do output what they say and if I turn a stock single coil down to 3 to 4 watts there's zero vapor production.

I'm going to guess that you started off low with a thick, sweet juice and gunked the coil rater quickly which is now preventing it from wicking causing the burning (of the gunk) when you try to turn it up to a more standard wattage.

As for your original question about why VV/VW devices go so high? Well there are now tanks on the market being advertised as Sub-Ohm (which I totally disagree with that marketing since the term sub-ohm came from the days before higher powered mods when mechanical vapers would build low ohm coils in order to get higher wattages to properly vaporizer larger amounts of juice) that run best in the 20 to 30 watt range. And now with the advent of the higher powered mods it's possible to build coils of a higher resistance in devices that can support the wicking required and get larger volumes of vapor and the larger flavor that comes with it.

That marketing is correct....... Since they are in the .5 ohm range, that IS sub ohm

 

[tiburonfirst]

The vamo, if I remember correctly, can be set to mean or rms regulation, and I would bet dollars to pennies you are in mean mode, which gives you a less accurate reading and hotter vape..... Scroll through your menu till you find the mean/rms options and switch over to rms, you will probably enjoy it more

now that's a distinct possibility!

 

[catalinaflyer]

That marketing is correct....... Since they are in the .5 ohm range, that IS sub ohm

Yes it is technically sub 1 ohm but the instant someone hears "sub ohm" the instantly equate that to the guys and gals playing down in the >.2 ohm range with mechanicals, high end batteries and RDA's which other than the name are not really even related.

A year ago if someone wanted to venture into sub ohm territory they needed a mechanical, high drain battery, RDA, roll of wire, wick, ohm meter and a lot of education to make it all work. Today you can walk into a shop, pick up an Atlantis or Kanger Sub Tank, an aspire CF Sub battery mod, pour some juice in, hit the button and be vaping. Now I know that safety education is no less important but with the current products hitting the market there's less of a learning curve. Certainly not what was envisioned when people said "sub ohm" 12 months ago.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

 

[USMCotaku]

Ironically, back then I was sub ohming around .4-.5 on most of my builds, that being the build that put out the right amount of warmth and vape for me on my little drilled out nimbus
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[USMCotaku]

I actually built a .5 on my protank 2 back then but quickly changed up to around .8, .5 was to hot for me in that tank (this was on a mech. My first higher power VW mod was a game changer)
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[USMCotaku]

No, really, 3-4 WATTS, not volts... It's a Vamo V5, tells me watts, volts, and ohms. Currently vaping a vanilla flavor in an Anyvape Davide Mini tank, 2.5ohm single coil (Kanger), have the Vamo set to 3.0 watts, battery is currently at 3.9 volts. I always keep it on the variable wattage setting, but if I switch over to the variable volts setting, it says I'm @ 3.0 volts as well. I guess I just feel like I've got a ferrari engine running a vw bug? lol Thanks a million you to all for all the input, this whole vaping thing is certainly a learning experience!

So have you checked your vamo to make sure you are in rms mode yet?

 

[Ryedan]

Yes it is technically sub 1 ohm but the instant someone hears "sub ohm" the instantly equate that to the guys and gals playing down in the >.2 ohm range with mechanicals, high end batteries and RDA's which other than the name are not really even related.

I hear ya catalinaflyer. OTOH, sub ohm setups are still sub ohm setups, even if people interpret the term incorrectly. I also say 'high power' when referring to that as opposed to simply sub ohm, in an attempt to get a bit more accuracy into the picture, but I think it will take a while before people get the idea

 

[USMCotaku]

I call those .2 and lower builds "super sub ohm"
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[USMCotaku]

Still waiting to hear back from OP on whether or not he was in mean mode on his vamo (hers? No clue ) and if that was causing the inability to go as high in power as the tank should be able to handle.......
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[dgm76513]

Agree. If you have adequate wicking and airflow you can vape at higher watts. Cleaos have neither of those.

People do rebuild coils with cotton, rayon, carpet, hair, etc... to improve wicking, which helps.

My comfort zone ranges depending on the device. Ranges between 13 watts to over 100 watts.

 

[Ryedan]

Still waiting to hear back from OP on whether or not he was in mean mode on his vamo (hers? No clue ) and if that was causing the inability to go as high in power as the tank should be able to handle.......

Sometimes they just never come back

 

[K Stub]

Sorry, started a new job, so haven't been here in a few days Thanks for all the info tho, I'm caught up now. Not sure what mode the Vamo is in (lost the manual), but hey, it's working fine @ the 3-4w range, I get a decent amount of vapor, and was able to quit smoking with it, so I guess maybe the display is inaccurate? I've also upgraded/got a backup device - a 30w eleaf w/ an aspire atlantis tank, and I'm loving it! I've also put the tanks w/ the kanger atomizers (exact same setup as was on the vamo) on the eleaf, and am able to vape @ 7-8w, more in keeping with what I've been hearing here. I guess that's more evidence that the vamo's display is off? Thanks again to all for all the discussion, I love the support and eddification that happens here in ECF!

 

[K Stub]

Hooray! According to my banner, I'm now in the black! I've saved more by not smoking than I've spent on vaping! Yeah!!