Last edited:
Why do Zens kind of suck?
- Thread starter ohnoitsthomas
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I have been wondering about that. Have you tried it, any issues?
Provari website says not to do that as well...maybe there's a reason?
I would NEVER try it, you have the chance of those magnets hitting the side of the metal tube or shorting out...not good...go bang bang
Well I did the O ring mod exactly as the link above said and once I got the three rings on, I couldn't even press the cap closed. I'm puzzled. I didn't want to use tools or extreme force to push the top cap on. Guess I have to live with it. Ugh
the new zen's do have a tighter fitting top cap, and those new top caps are for sale now (not sure i can post where in here though) if you dont want to buy a new one, JR has an awesome tutorial on how to fix that issue w/ o rings that he posted a while back and linked above... and yeah as had been stated before the zen SW is an awesome out of the house PV, I used one exclusively for my outside PV for months w/ no issues at all.
i totally get the thing about not wanting to have to modify your expensive PV once you get it, but the truth is, I have pretty much had to modify, or modified every single high end PV that I've owned, or have done it for freinds. (just a few examples: my modded SW: too many to list here, but i did that for fun, iHy: tubes not lining up correctly and having to sand them down, kick wont work w/out modifying the switch [not that i care or would ever use one, but hey, just putting that out there bc its supposed to work w/ one] paps and gus tele: replacing crappy hot spring w/ solid brass headless screw, GGTS: sand switch and axis to make it fire more consistently but still not happy w/ it, and removing all the burrs from and having to sand the tops of imeo's crap threading to get telescope to work, gone through two of those, and to get it to fit into a top tube or to get the stealth rethereader to fit on a ZAG, ProVari/ZAP: had to remove the paint and give a brushed finish bc it looked like it had been through a war after my gf used it for two weeks bc there is no media blast under the paint, nothing for it to stick or hold on to and it just chips off too easily, remove top peice to get it indexed w/ the wick on the ZAP, and remove the dumb satin finish on the ZAP beauty ring that doesnt match anything and sticks out like a sore thumb... etc. etc. and the list goes on)
i totally get the thing about not wanting to have to modify your expensive PV once you get it, but the truth is, I have pretty much had to modify, or modified every single high end PV that I've owned, or have done it for freinds. (just a few examples: my modded SW: too many to list here, but i did that for fun, iHy: tubes not lining up correctly and having to sand them down, kick wont work w/out modifying the switch [not that i care or would ever use one, but hey, just putting that out there bc its supposed to work w/ one] paps and gus tele: replacing crappy hot spring w/ solid brass headless screw, GGTS: sand switch and axis to make it fire more consistently but still not happy w/ it, and removing all the burrs from and having to sand the tops of imeo's crap threading to get telescope to work, gone through two of those, and to get it to fit into a top tube or to get the stealth rethereader to fit on a ZAG, ProVari/ZAP: had to remove the paint and give a brushed finish bc it looked like it had been through a war after my gf used it for two weeks bc there is no media blast under the paint, nothing for it to stick or hold on to and it just chips off too easily, remove top peice to get it indexed w/ the wick on the ZAP, and remove the dumb satin finish on the ZAP beauty ring that doesnt match anything and sticks out like a sore thumb... etc. etc. and the list goes on)
Last edited:
This is disappointing to read as I was thinking about picking up a Z atty pro. Oh well time to look elsewhere.
don't know why all the zen hate lately....the most ive been hearing lately is about battery rattle....thats there for a reason folks. that is play due to varying sizes of batts. just because they are aw18650 does not mean they are always completely the same size. when the new 2000 mah 18650's were released(just so happened that was right before the zens released) they were a tad longer than the 1600 mah batts on the market(i know, i have 1600 batts from before, 2000's from the first wave released, and ones newer which are in spec with the old 1600's). they no longer fit as zen designed. he went back and gave them room. guess what he kept it like that in the event of slightly out of proportioned sized batts so the issue wouldn't happen again. bad engeneering....um no.
too all those complaining you have to mod a zen(im not counting the older anodized zens, his anodizer f'ed up royaly those issues have been fixed for new stuff)......if sanding contact points is modding you must not realize you need to do that to any mechanical. i own many zens. the only thing i ever had to do to any of them is sand the contact points.
top cap issue.....moot point, add an o-ring.... it is not a pocket freindly device!!!! it is not meant for the pocket!!!! you want it screwed on? another silly fix. no adjustability, not all of us use it directly in front of the wick
too all those complaining you have to mod a zen(im not counting the older anodized zens, his anodizer f'ed up royaly those issues have been fixed for new stuff)......if sanding contact points is modding you must not realize you need to do that to any mechanical. i own many zens. the only thing i ever had to do to any of them is sand the contact points.
top cap issue.....moot point, add an o-ring.... it is not a pocket freindly device!!!! it is not meant for the pocket!!!! you want it screwed on? another silly fix. no adjustability, not all of us use it directly in front of the wick
Last edited:
^yup, you actually get more vapor w/ the airhole displaced slightly off of the wick to the right or left, most people dont realise that. I do like the foggatti or syn, w/ the dual o rings, best of both worlds imo and those top caps aint going no where. I think mike should incorporate something like this
To those who are adding o rings to the top cap, how is it even working? If I slap an o ring on it, the cap will not close. The bottom of the cap will not sit flush with the glass. I'm puzzled....I did the tutorial above exactly and bought the same exact orings and cannot get it working.
If that is happening, then it is pinching one of the o-rings when you are putting the top cap on. add a little e-liquid to the o-rings, slide them up towards the top cap/top o-ring, then when you put on the cap, do it in a rocking and twisting motion to get it over the bottom o-ring. It also may be that o-ring is slightly to fat. Try a diff o-ring,
I (and a few friends) have been doing the top cap seal this way for a long time, and it works. YMMV of course.
I (and a few friends) have been doing the top cap seal this way for a long time, and it works. YMMV of course.
I'm pretty raw with this subject..But I'm never out and about with my High end Mods..
Their either at home or in the office. I use my MCM 2.0 DNA 20 when I'm out doing things.
It's pocket friendly and hits like a champ..I find Zen RBA's easy to set up and enjoy the vape they provide.
although I did swap out the o-ring for the cap..
Their either at home or in the office. I use my MCM 2.0 DNA 20 when I'm out doing things.
It's pocket friendly and hits like a champ..I find Zen RBA's easy to set up and enjoy the vape they provide.
although I did swap out the o-ring for the cap..
- Status
Similar threads
