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Just to make sure, we are talking PV's? Because if we are not, and your wifes button is getting hot, i salute you my friend!
On the other hand, if we are talking PV's, the most plausible way for a unit to get so hot would be a short. Either the protective coating on the battery has ripped and is contacting the case, thus causing a short or the atomizer is shorting out (usually on 510's that have had the center pin of the atomizer pushed up in). There could be some other ways too, like an internal battery short, or perhaps a piece of debris shorting out something. Check too to make sure the unit is all intact too, with Oring insulator under the battery, spring properly in place etc. What brand/type of battery configuration are you running? If you can't find a culprit, feel free to send it in and i'll take a look at it. By all means, discontinue use until the culprit is found.
On the other hand, if we are talking PV's, the most plausible way for a unit to get so hot would be a short. Either the protective coating on the battery has ripped and is contacting the case, thus causing a short or the atomizer is shorting out (usually on 510's that have had the center pin of the atomizer pushed up in). There could be some other ways too, like an internal battery short, or perhaps a piece of debris shorting out something. Check too to make sure the unit is all intact too, with Oring insulator under the battery, spring properly in place etc. What brand/type of battery configuration are you running? If you can't find a culprit, feel free to send it in and i'll take a look at it. By all means, discontinue use until the culprit is found.
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This is a really good and comprehensive answer, David, and will be of use to anyone who is experiencing a short on any kind of device.
To the OP, in my experience, the number 1 cause of a hot button is over-screwing.......(sorry, couldn't resist), but seriously, it's really easy to cause that centre pole to pop out of the 510 atty a little bit.
If her atties look at all like any of the top four in this pic, then that may well be your answer.
To the OP, in my experience, the number 1 cause of a hot button is over-screwing.......(sorry, couldn't resist), but seriously, it's really easy to cause that centre pole to pop out of the 510 atty a little bit.
If her atties look at all like any of the top four in this pic, then that may well be your answer.
David has them on his site, and I agree with Venkman -- they perform much better than what I was using.
The other cause of the short could be a problem with the positive contact, either where it touches the battery or where the atomizer screws in. If the contact has become off kilter and touches the edge, you have a short. The way David builds this is highly unlikely, but please check O ring and placement anyway.
As to other preceding posts, I've used the 10440 LIMN's (IMR) with regular 510 atomizers and find that they fall somewhere between the legendarily bad Trustfires grays and the better performing, but often misshapen, Ultrafire 10440's available at madvapes. If you plan on mostly using LR 510's then I suggest the IMR type because they are designed for high drain and are safe in sealed units like the P10.
As to other preceding posts, I've used the 10440 LIMN's (IMR) with regular 510 atomizers and find that they fall somewhere between the legendarily bad Trustfires grays and the better performing, but often misshapen, Ultrafire 10440's available at madvapes. If you plan on mostly using LR 510's then I suggest the IMR type because they are designed for high drain and are safe in sealed units like the P10.
I know this is an older post, but I was looking to find out if anyone had previously experienced what happened to me today. I happily screwed on a fresh atty to my P10 with a fully charged IMR10440 battery installed. I did a couple "dry burns" and then added 3 drops of juice. As I started to vape, I noticed that the pv was VERY hot. I popped the battery out, and it was hot, hot, hot! I initially wondered if I had accidentally put the battery in upside down. So, I waited til everything cooled down, carefully put the battery in the right way, and screwed the top back on. Again, it heated up faster than one of Charlie Sheen's goddesses. (sorry, couldn't resist!) It turns out that I had overscrewed the atty, and it looks like the one on the far right on the back row in the picture above. I had to loosen it some to prevent the overheating. (so many good ones there, but stayed on track) so, my experience showed that sometimes, overheating is caused by the position of the center of the battery end of the atty.
Strangely enough, I was just answering a customer email with this very same issue (although with a different device). It's an extremely common problem until people know that they only have to screw until contact is made, rather than cranking it right down on there. This applies to all devices and we've probably all done it.
Good to hear you found the problem. If a unit gets hot, I have found only two causes: Atomizer shorting out as described previously, or a battery shorting out due to ripped/worn through plastic on the battery itself causing it to short against the body. There is a third outside chance that some metal debris could get caught up between the top center post and cap or if a spring switch somehow came apart and went up into the battery chamber, though i've never had those happen on any of the Precises.
To date (over one year and two months), i've only ever had to warranty 3 Precises, One had a mis-machined ledge in it where the button spring rests that failed. One had a stripped top brass cap in the atomizer area (to be expected on brass or aluminum tops as they will eventually wear out as i learned when producing the T1 and S6 out of aluminum) I've never had a stainless steel top strip and my experience has shown it is the only truly acceptable material (stainless) for use in threads on PV's Due to the high wear rate of aluminum and brass; expect only about 3-12 months out of even the best quality aluminum or brass threads. And lastly, one had mismachined thread (too loose) on the top cap/body mating area. It doesn't get any more dependable than that
To date (over one year and two months), i've only ever had to warranty 3 Precises, One had a mis-machined ledge in it where the button spring rests that failed. One had a stripped top brass cap in the atomizer area (to be expected on brass or aluminum tops as they will eventually wear out as i learned when producing the T1 and S6 out of aluminum) I've never had a stainless steel top strip and my experience has shown it is the only truly acceptable material (stainless) for use in threads on PV's Due to the high wear rate of aluminum and brass; expect only about 3-12 months out of even the best quality aluminum or brass threads. And lastly, one had mismachined thread (too loose) on the top cap/body mating area. It doesn't get any more dependable than that
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Good to hear you found the problem. If a unit gets hot, I have found only two causes: Atomizer shorting out as described previously, or a battery shorting out due to ripped/worn through plastic on the battery itself causing it to short against the body. There is a third outside chance that some metal debris could get caught up between the top center post and cap or if a spring switch somehow came apart and went up into the battery chamber, though i've never had those happen on any of the Precises.
To date (over one year and two months), i've only ever had to warranty 3 Precises, One had a mis-machined ledge in it where the button spring rests that failed. One had a stripped top brass cap in the atomizer area (to be expected on brass or aluminum tops as they will eventually wear out as i learned when producing the T1 and S6 out of aluminum) I've never had a stainless steel top strip and my experience has shown it is the only truly acceptable material (stainless) for use in threads on PV's Due to the high wear rate of aluminum and brass; expect only about 3-12 months out of even the best quality aluminum or brass threads. And lastly, one had mismachined thread (too loose) on the top cap/body mating area. It doesn't get any more dependable than that
Yep - I have found that on the RARE occasion that I have an issue with my P10 or P16, it's user error! I love both of the PV's I got from Super T!
This is a really good and comprehensive answer, David, and will be of use to anyone who is experiencing a short on any kind of device.
To the OP, in my experience, the number 1 cause of a hot button is over-screwing.......(sorry, couldn't resist), but seriously, it's really easy to cause that centre pole to pop out of the 510 atty a little bit.
If her atties look at all like any of the top four in this pic, then that may well be your answer.
It took me 2 attys to learn this lesson...
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