Wood Wood Sealer
- Thread starter TruckerMSA
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Off hand, Waterlox should do the trick. I use it to seal and finish solid wood tops and furniture. Amazon and Woodcraft both carry it. What are you working on?
A member here, who goes by the nick asdaq, makes some amazing wood and metal mods. asdaq mentioned linseed oil followed by beeswax.
One of my beta testers has told me that juice is soaking thru the wood around the 510 connector
Those are very nice. I haven't tried the linseed oil, beeswax that GandyMarsh mentioned, but it's worth a shot.
What I found using the Waterlox is that the first coat soaks in and seals the wood. After that I apply another coat, allow it to dry and then wet sand it smooth with 400 grit wet sand paper. Repeat the process as many times as you like. I like using a soft brush to apply it, using cloth or wool applicators leaves lint in the finish. I will try and post a pic of one of my counters, so you can see the finished product and sheen
What I found using the Waterlox is that the first coat soaks in and seals the wood. After that I apply another coat, allow it to dry and then wet sand it smooth with 400 grit wet sand paper. Repeat the process as many times as you like. I like using a soft brush to apply it, using cloth or wool applicators leaves lint in the finish. I will try and post a pic of one of my counters, so you can see the finished product and sheen
For a Time, I got into making Exotic Wood Knife Scales. I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil on some of the Finishes. I thought it Worked Quit Well.
I would Strongly Suggest thought that Whatever you decide might work, that you Finish a Rem Piece of wood and then test how Well it stands up to e-Liquids.
BTW - Some People recommend using Minwax Wood Stabilizer to strengthen the Wood Before putting a Finish Protective Top Coat.
I use satin marine spar urethane. I thin it 50/50 with mineral ,spirits and apply several coats. It provides UV protection to minimize color changes in the wood as well as weather resistance. Been about four months and several ejuice spills onto my main pipe and it wipes right off.
Superglue/cyanoacrylate is probably my favorite finish for small projects. It's fast and easy to apply, easy to level, and easy to buff to a super high sheen. And it makes an incredibly durable finish. It quickly gets expensive if you're trying to do a large project, but for things like pens, box mods, and other small projects, it's great.
It does indeed. Basically, with a CA finish you're coating the wood with a thin layer of highly durable plastic.
Ok, is it something that needs to be mixed or is it all in one?
It's all in one - it's literally just superglue. I like to buy the multipacks of the little .2 gram tubes rather than buying bigger bottles that may end up curing internally before I can finish using it.
I typically apply several drops to the wood, spread it with my finger (wearing a latex/nitrile glove) to cover the entire surface, let it dry then turn the piece and coat the next surface. You'll want three to four coats on each surface to build enough thickness so that when you sand to level out the inevitable imperfections caused by spreading with your finger you don't sand all the way through to bare wood.
Be cautious between coats - if you've got any glue that is still in the process of curing when you apply fresh, it will cause your new coat to cure almost instantly - this includes glue on your finger/glove! I usually cut the fingers off a few pairs of nitrile gloves, use one per surface per coat, then trash it and start with the next one.
Once I have all of the coats on, I usually start with 220 grit paper and a sanding block to level the glue once all coats are on and it's cured for 10-15 minutes. Once leveled, I lightly sand up to 600 grit, then take it to my buffing wheel and use a very light buffing compound followed by a polishing compound. Results are usually amazing.
This is my own cobbled together method that I came up with after some trial and error. Others likely have better methods. This method usually takes me all of half an hour to an hour to completely and fully finish out a mod sized piece of wood to an incredible high gloss finish.
I see I was mentioned earlier in this thread and admit I'm am a bit late to the party. 
My favorite finish for mods is indeed linseed oil and beeswax. The linseed oil polymerizes as it dries and since it has soaked into the wood, it improves the strength as well as waterproofing. There is something about a high vapor barrier rating of linseed oil, but I don't recall the source, but it scores higher than tung oil in this respect. Also the odor is less than tung, and there is a slight darkening over time with linseed oil.
Beeswax improves upon the luster and furthers the waterproofing. The composition is not fully understood chemically, but it certainly holds up to e-liquid nicely. There are cases of sunken ships found after 70 years in seawater and wood preserved in beeswax comes out in pristine shape.
I've had a small number of applications not quite take for whatever reason and the wax gradually wore off after a couple of weeks, but is easily re-applied and then it is good. Sometimes just going over the mod with 600+ grit sandpaper redistributes the remaining wax and brings back the gloss.
Mainly I like this finish for its gloss, the protection and it still feels like wood in the hand. I've got mods that are 3 years old and the finish is fine.
My favorite finish for mods is indeed linseed oil and beeswax. The linseed oil polymerizes as it dries and since it has soaked into the wood, it improves the strength as well as waterproofing. There is something about a high vapor barrier rating of linseed oil, but I don't recall the source, but it scores higher than tung oil in this respect. Also the odor is less than tung, and there is a slight darkening over time with linseed oil.
Beeswax improves upon the luster and furthers the waterproofing. The composition is not fully understood chemically, but it certainly holds up to e-liquid nicely. There are cases of sunken ships found after 70 years in seawater and wood preserved in beeswax comes out in pristine shape.
I've had a small number of applications not quite take for whatever reason and the wax gradually wore off after a couple of weeks, but is easily re-applied and then it is good. Sometimes just going over the mod with 600+ grit sandpaper redistributes the remaining wax and brings back the gloss.
Mainly I like this finish for its gloss, the protection and it still feels like wood in the hand. I've got mods that are 3 years old and the finish is fine.
I see I was mentioned earlier in this thread and admit I'm am a bit late to the party.
My favorite finish for mods is indeed linseed oil and beeswax. The linseed oil polymerizes as it dries and since it has soaked into the wood, it improves the strength as well as waterproofing. There is something about a high vapor barrier rating of linseed oil, but I don't recall the source, but it scores higher than tung oil in this respect. Also the odor is less than tung, and there is a slight darkening over time with linseed oil.
Beeswax improves upon the luster and furthers the waterproofing. The composition is not fully understood chemically, but it certainly holds up to e-liquid nicely. There are cases of sunken ships found after 70 years in seawater and wood preserved in beeswax comes out in pristine shape.
I've had a small number of applications not quite take for whatever reason and the wax gradually wore off after a couple of weeks, but is easily re-applied and then it is good. Sometimes just going over the mod with 600+ grit sandpaper redistributes the remaining wax and brings back the gloss.
Mainly I like this finish for its gloss, the protection and it still feels like wood in the hand. I've got mods that are 3 years old and the finish is fine.
What is your step by step process?
Sent from the Truck O Shop
Hey you're quick, I thought this subforum was a bit on the sleepy side.
After sanding and cleaning, apply linseed oil liberally with a piece of material, paper towel, or a finger, when it is all coated you can wipe the excess off and set to dry for 24h. When dry go over it with 600 grit sandpaper and wipe clean. The beeswax is a jar of beeswax with turpentine in a paste form (It's under the kitchen sink, so not handy to look at the label) and gets applied thinner than the oil and any visible clumps of wax gets wiped off so it is not so thick. After 2 hours curing the turpentine evaporates and it is ready for buffing with a soft cloth or buffing wheel, if you have one.
After sanding and cleaning, apply linseed oil liberally with a piece of material, paper towel, or a finger, when it is all coated you can wipe the excess off and set to dry for 24h. When dry go over it with 600 grit sandpaper and wipe clean. The beeswax is a jar of beeswax with turpentine in a paste form (It's under the kitchen sink, so not handy to look at the label) and gets applied thinner than the oil and any visible clumps of wax gets wiped off so it is not so thick. After 2 hours curing the turpentine evaporates and it is ready for buffing with a soft cloth or buffing wheel, if you have one.
I have some beeswax polish. I finde it leaves a slight stickiness to the wood. An i applying it wrong?
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