I suppose this thread is as good as any to ask. With the coupon code, "superbad", I read that we were being entered into a drawing for a Tanbur. When will we find out who won one of these beauties?
New By Super-T: The Tanbur SS Contoured T-Tips!
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Not sure but here is the last one with the winners.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...er-selection-price-shipping-worldwide-13.html
Post # 130
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...er-selection-price-shipping-worldwide-13.html
Post # 130
Siouxsie,
Sorry you missed out. Save your battery and/or charger order number. If you haven't previously entered your number on the Super-T battery thread up in the Suppliers Forum, you can still use it in Super-Ts next drawing. He runs the contests quite often.
Sorry you missed out. Save your battery and/or charger order number. If you haven't previously entered your number on the Super-T battery thread up in the Suppliers Forum, you can still use it in Super-Ts next drawing. He runs the contests quite often.
Stupid question I know....but if i were to use a hh357 with a p10 like you were in the video Snork, what ohm should I order on the atmoizer?
Why would that be a stupid question? I neglected to mention that it was a 1.5 ohm.
But right now I'm angry at the HH.357. The particular one used in that video lasted less than 3 weeks before the ohms began dropping, right now it reads .9 ohms. No excuse for that, I don't care what I've done with it or to it, and I'm not one to horse around trying to bring things back to life. Aside from another 2.5 ohm HH.357 I haven't used because I plan on using it with a Kicked ShockWave, I'm done with them.
Lately as far as standard atomizers go I've been using good quality (ikenvape) regular old 510s, io6s and 901s. A 1.5 ohm ikenvape 510 is working nearly as well on my P10 as the HH.357.
But right now I'm angry at the HH.357. The particular one used in that video lasted less than 3 weeks before the ohms began dropping, right now it reads .9 ohms. No excuse for that, I don't care what I've done with it or to it, and I'm not one to horse around trying to bring things back to life. Aside from another 2.5 ohm HH.357 I haven't used because I plan on using it with a Kicked ShockWave, I'm done with them.
Lately as far as standard atomizers go I've been using good quality (ikenvape) regular old 510s, io6s and 901s. A 1.5 ohm ikenvape 510 is working nearly as well on my P10 as the HH.357.
Snork my HH357 started at 2.5 ohms, after 10 days or so it dropped to 1.3 ohms... It has now settled at 1.6 ohms where it has been for about 3 weeks.. IMO the HH357 does work well. I blow it clear 1-2 times a day.. Give it a short dry burn and re-drip... Its about a month old now and still has great performance, plus the flavor is outstanding... I ordered a second one for the Shockwave, 3.0 ohms.. That way it will end up around 2.0 ohms I assume... ?
Beats me?
Since I did that video I kind of feel embarrassed. My first HH.357 worked perfectly for many months, but ultimately dropped in ohms to an unacceptable level also. I followed Hannah's advice to a T regarding care. A couple months use is okay, less than 3 weeks is not. Nothing should vary that much, especially something so expensive. My apologies to anyone who may have bought an HH.357 on my advice and experienced similar problems.
That said, I know all the rage right now is rebuildable atomizers. I have quite a few of various sorts myself and yes, they're awesome. But I have and probably always will have the largest part of my vapor coming out of your standard varieties of atomizers. I try to get the best ones I can find and when they're good they give any rebuildable I have a run for its money.
I learned something the other night: A Kick will not deliver wattage *lower* than the voltage of the battery would be putting out. So let's say you take a battery fresh off the charger @ 4.2 and put it in with a Kick set at 5 watts and use a .9 ohm atty, you'll actually still get a whopping 19 watts blasting at you. At least that's what the HiFiStud said and my experience bears this out. I'm probably full of crap.Bummer. Are these the V2's or are they the V1 HH357?
Also - wouldn't using them with a kick help with the varying resistance? Might be worth a shot!
NebulaBrot, NebulaBrot calling NebulaBrot.
[Edit: I don't know from versions. My good one was old and my bad one was new.]
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Bummer
Also - wouldn't using them with a kick help with the varying resistance? Might be worth a shot!
The ones I ordered are custom HH357 attys.. All custom are now VII specs.... One thing I really like is that they can be given short dry burns(Glowing coil) to clean the carbon off. As soon as you re-drip the flavor is perfect.. Joyes and the lot on the other hand leave an off taste after dry burning IMO... Yes I am a Master dripper and know how to get maximum performance and life out of an atty... Its the only way I have vaped for 2.7 years... I need to learn about the rebuildables... Snork which rebuildable do you prefer(I know you must have several types)..... I probably just have to wait for SuperT to release theirs... Forcefuel50 I sure hope you release one in a drip only mode as well as the atty/tank combo you have planed...
I almost was able to get one from COV... I was on their Notify me list for a drip-only mode Ody for a couple of months.. The other day while I was on my computer an e-mail poped up telling me I could buy one.... I clicked the link and was redirected to COV where it said Page cannot be found.... ? I dont what happened, did it sell out in seconds?
The one thing I forgot to mention about the HH357 is when new they are spitty and leak abit. But after a week or so that dissapers..... Snork I would say yours is a VI... They made improvements with the VII...
I use 100% VG 30mg unflavored... Joyes and Ikens loose all taste after 10 days or so... This HH has full flavor after 30 days IMO... You can really taste the nicotine when using unflavored.. It reminds me of a real cigarette after taste.... But in a clean way...
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You know I seem to be experiencing that exact same thing and i thought I was crazy. Some of my favorite juices taste best about 6 watts and I have noticed that fresh of the Pila and into the P+ with Kick it 'feels' a lot higher for the first hour or so. Must not be a true step up/ step down regulator. Doesn't take too long for it to even out but thanks for letting me know so I don't think I'm crazy.
We'll see what Riverboat comes up with and I sent a PM to NebulaBrot requesting input.
Not at home right now, so I will do it later tonight.. Im sure your right though... I have set my Kick to 10 watts with a LR 1.5ohm atty(I tested the ohms). With a fresh off the charger battery I used an inline tester and with voltage readings under load I was getteing around 10.7 watts when doing the math....
Snork - that makes sense. The Darwin works the same way. If you're using a 1.5 ohm atty you can see the watts you've dialed will read for instance 4 watts, but the voltage displayed will still read 3.3 or whatever. Only once you hit the crossover point does the voltage start to creep up and the displayed wattage is actually correct. I mainly learned this when I was first starting with rebuildables and made a few really bad coils that were sub 1 ohm. Didn't click that the kick would behave the same way but it really makes sense.
First and foremost, from the Evolv kick page: Our Products « Evolv
Second, 3.7 volt batts may come off a charger at 4.2 (mine usually 4.16 or 4.17) but they do not stay there for long. They are 3.7 volt batteries and drop to that level very quickly after the first few activations.
The kick is not designed to reduce voltage. It has a boost circuit and it is designed to Regulate Power = keep it consistent. These features are very different from trying to reduce voltage.
Low Resistance attys/cartos were designed to simulate (imitate) higher voltage vaping (HIGHER WATTS) using lower volts. So what is the point of putting a LR atty/carto/coil on a boost circuit? Personally, I have never met anything LR that I enjoyed vaping. I know many people swear by LR and LR certainly IS a sweet spot for some vapers. Putting LR on a boost circuit just does not make sense to me as it goes against the intended design of both the LR coil and the boost circuit. I maintain an open mind, and will always be willing to consider something new, but for the most part I find LR gear heats too quickly for my preferences. I use higher VG juices and VG burns at lower temps than PG. I also often multi-hit and LR gets harsh fast when doing this. Using standard resistance (2.5-3.0Ωs) just seems to offer a much wider range of vapable watts.
Many will say that watts are watts and technically (electronically) they would be accurate. However, I have compared the same watts levels using LR and STD resistance and high resistance (adjusting voltage to reach the same watts levels and keeping as much else as consistent as possible - e.g. same make/model atty/carto) and without exception I enjoy the higher-volts/higher-resistance combos much better for the same watts levels. Such experiments are very easy on Darwin - just use the same juice and same manufacturer/model atty/carto at various resistance levels and leave Darwin (or Kick) set to the same watts level. I did these experiments using Variable Voltage devices even before Darwin was ever released. In vaping we are sort of "cooking" the juices. As in cooking, temperature impacts final outcome. If you try to bake a cake faster by raising the temp... Juice flavors each also respond to temperatures. This is why some juices seem to come more to life at certain watts (temp) levels and others at different watts (temp) levels. As juices have become increasingly more complex (more varied flavor combinations in a single juice) the juices can become even more sensitive to the watts (temp) ranges. Nonetheless, there are many who prefer the characteristics of LR gear in their vape experiences. Vaping is 100% subjective (personal preferences). But, that does not change the simple fact the LR on a boost circuit is sort of counter-intuitive and counter productive as well. The boost circuit demands more amps (reduces batt use per charge cycle) and LR also demands more amps. So the combination of LR and boost circuit will also yield the lowest/shortest batt use time per charge cycle.
0.9 Ωs is going to give you a very high watts (vaping temp) no matter what you put it on. It will also demand a very high amps drain. For example, if you put a 0.9Ωs coil on a 3 volt batt (that is actually pushing 3 volts under load) you would be vaping at 10 watts even then. This combo would demand an amps flow of 3.33 amps and I do not know of any 3 volt battery that can push 3.33 amps. So, in this scenario, under-load voltage would drop to the level Ohms Law could be satisfied by the max amps push capacity of the battery. Such voltage-droppoff vaping is overly stressing the battery by forcing it to perform at its absolute maximum capacity for the duration of the charge cycle. I do not think voltage-droppoff vaping is the safest way to vape.
With ALL of that said, if you like 10 watts on a 1.5Ωs coil, The Evolv Power REgulation technology (Darwin, Kick, and DNA) WILL provide that for you consistently - much more so than VV or unregulated. For Dual coils (another subjective preference of some vapers), this is an entirely DIFFERENT scenario as DC uses 2 much higher Ωs coils in parallel and the power gets split between the two High Ωs coils resulting in a cooler vape. DCs CAN handle much higher voltage/watts levels BECAUSE the power is getting split between the TWO COILS. THis is the reason the DNA board was designed to allow for stacking two of the DNA boards to provide those much higher levels - but it really is only useful for dual coils as those watts levels on a single coil would either pop the coil or be ridiculously hot/harsh if the coil did not pop.
Final EDIT: If you like DCs and single coils, I believe the stacked DNA scenario allows for the installation of a separate power switch to turn the second DNA board on/off = Nice huh?
Hope this helps.
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