AGA-T2 Question

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Myk

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Jan 1, 2009
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Mesh isn't an issue (kind of, more on that later). Diameter, length of wire and gauge is the issue.

You simply need more wraps to get more resistance wire so you'll have more resistance.

It could also be that you're shorting out on the wick which will lower resistance. I've had a problem with 500 shorting and welding itself, which makes the short even worse.

4/3 is what I generally got with 32ga on a T2 (guessing because I've switched back to ribbon with 7/6 for 2Ω).
 

Ryedan

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Mar 31, 2012
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I've never done that many wraps on a non micro coil. I would try to not have the coils touching, but it might be tough. If a coil touches another one, I wouldn't worry about too much. It's not likely touching hard and I suspect it will oxidize between them while you are pulsing out shorts. I would be careful not to cross coils over each other though.
 

boathook

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Oct 27, 2013
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Upstate NY
Easiest way to determine if it's a short is to remove the wick from the coil (unscrew it from the coil). Then re-check the resistance of the coil. If it pops up a bit, then it was most likely shorting to the wick (which shorted to the top deck/Negative of the AGA-T2).

That being said, I would suspect that with 28-gauge you're probably not shorting out. You just need a wrap or two more to get to the resistance you want to be at (higher than 1.5 Ohm for the Zmax I believe?)

You will most likely have to re-oxidize after doing so though as mesh rubbing against kanthal makes the oxidation go away (at least for me). Here's a quick and easy way to make that all work out nicely:



If you still have issues with shorting, try using Rip Tripper's "Auto Dripping/Microcoil" method. (It's what finally got me to use my AGA-T2's and now I don't put 'em down) It uses cotton and thus no shorting. Just be sure to keep tipping to keep the wick wet.
 
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