Already ordered 30g kanthal, and I am going to attempt to hit a hardware store to find a washer =) Thanks!
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this will help alot, but as for the resistances jumping around, well thats another issue. now 99 percent of the time its just a loose nut when making your connection at the positive post, but it also can be something with the vamo, or its setting, because i have heard this before. when you re-do the set-up, after you get the 30g, just break down the whole atty and make sure everythings tight, inside & out. good luck
I got the same stuff when i set up my agat2...for me it was the wick grounding on the wickhole....i used some insulator from an old boge carto and wrapped the wick at the hole....problem solved...this was after multiple attempts at oxidizing the wick AND using a pre oxidized wick i had from my Zenisis kit...seems the wick hole is threaded pretty well and the sharp threads were piercing through the oxidation.
I also use a vamo from time to time and have not had any issues with mine.
I also use a vamo from time to time and have not had any issues with mine.
jonjay
resetting the rms setting didnt work for me over the long run (duh). Im pretty sure the problem with the ohm jumping was a micro-short with my coil/wick (30awg / 45x45mm #400). After a lot of reading and tshooting I recoiled with 32 using this as a crutch:
Petar K Method with a Hybrid Wick
And my ohms are stable (2 days now). The small amount of cotton on the top of the wick helps prevent the micro-shorts (I guess it's like a crutch for the Petar K method and newbs like me). Im sure this will work with 30g too but right now I have a good vape and dont want to mess with it. My top leg is getting hot so in the morning I'll pick up 2 washers as vapdivrr suggested
resetting the rms setting didnt work for me over the long run (duh). Im pretty sure the problem with the ohm jumping was a micro-short with my coil/wick (30awg / 45x45mm #400). After a lot of reading and tshooting I recoiled with 32 using this as a crutch:
Petar K Method with a Hybrid Wick
And my ohms are stable (2 days now). The small amount of cotton on the top of the wick helps prevent the micro-shorts (I guess it's like a crutch for the Petar K method and newbs like me). Im sure this will work with 30g too but right now I have a good vape and dont want to mess with it. My top leg is getting hot so in the morning I'll pick up 2 washers as vapdivrr suggested
Push the mesh a little closer to the center post and that will hopefully solve your issue. It solved mine with the zact setup. Might sound crazy but give it a shot. Just try and do a few more wraps on your coil to. I try and get 5-6 wraps on.
Jumping ohms is almost always a connectivity problem. As another poster stated, this can usually be fixed by fiddling with the resistance wire connection at the top of the positive post. Point is - make damn sure that you've got a good contact on both the negative and positive leads. Don't rely on the nuts alone to make the contact for you on the positive center post. As you are building your coil, be sure to leave enough space between the top two nuts to make sure that your resistance wire is wrapped around and touching the center post before tightening the top nut. I use a tool of one sort or another (often a screw driver) to help push the knurled top nuts tighter as I am connecting the positive lead.
If these simple fixes don't work, it may be that you are having issues with contact between the VAMO and the AGA. Other poster's suggestions to adjust the center pin on the AGA to fit the VAMO should be followed. I would consider adjusting the center pin on the VAMO a last resort.
The issue of the glowing top lead is usually caused by a short between the coil and the stainless mesh. Physics says that, absent other interference (e.g. e-juice cooling off coils), the hottest point of a length of resistance wire that is uniform in resistance will be the center of the wire. The end result for most coils that are of a reasonable length (e.g. not a 0.3 ohm coil) that are not shorting is that the top and bottom coils are the coolest coils, the middle coil is the coil that lights up first, and the short leads from the wick to center post and from the wick to the negative post get hot, but don't glow. On the other hand, if you have a short between the coil and wick (you can usually see these as hotspots) you are altering the effective length of the coil, causing the coil to be a great deal shorter. This shorter effective length of resistance means that the top leg between the wick and the center post glows. Point here is that PROPER oxidation is a must. Keep in mind that too much oxidation ends up messing with wicking and with flavor.
My particular method is as follows: Cut whatever size mesh you need. I use tube wicks because I find that the flavor is much better than with a solid wick, so my wick sizes are usually in the neighborhood of 1 1/2 inches by 3/4 of an inch. I then torch the wick before rolling. Then I carefully fold a very small width (about 1/16 of an inch) of the long side of the wick over (this will end up being the outside of the wick). Then I roll my wick onto whatever size filling needle I have that fits both wick and mesh in hole without a huge amount of slop. For my AGAs this is a 14 gauge, 2" long filling needle. Other attys may need a narrower needle. The mesh should be rolled as tightly as possible around the needle. Once the mesh is rolled and staying put, I pull the filling needle out and torch the mesh again once. All said and done, I spend about thirty seconds to one minute total torching mesh, including the time spent torching the mesh while it is unrolled. I do not quench the mesh, and I certainly never coat it with juice and light it on fire. Once the mesh is cooled, I put the filling needle back in the mesh, wrap my coil as tightly as possible on the mesh while on the needle, but not in the atty. Then I insert the entire assembly into the atty, keeping tension on the coil to prevent it from unwinding/loosening. Then I hook up my legs, fire up the mod, and to the extent necessary, fiddle with coils until all of the hotspots are gone. I use a combination of poking the coils and pulsing to eliminate hotspots. Usually I don't have to spend more than a couple of minutes fiddling to eliminate all of the hotspots. You'll know that all of the hotspots are eliminated and the coil is working properly when the coil glows brightly at the center, is slightly less bright at the edges, and your top and bottom leads to the terminals aren't glowing. Identifying hotspots is pretty easy particularly at the top of the coil - just look for the brightly glowing piece of mesh. Towards the bottom of the coil it can be a bit more difficult, especially if you use a solid wick that works as a heatsink. Just continue to fiddle with the coils until you have the coil characteristics described above.
FYI, on my Vamo, I currently have a 6/5 wrap of 30 gauge Kanthal a-1 in my AGA-T2+. It's vaping like a champ.
If these simple fixes don't work, it may be that you are having issues with contact between the VAMO and the AGA. Other poster's suggestions to adjust the center pin on the AGA to fit the VAMO should be followed. I would consider adjusting the center pin on the VAMO a last resort.
The issue of the glowing top lead is usually caused by a short between the coil and the stainless mesh. Physics says that, absent other interference (e.g. e-juice cooling off coils), the hottest point of a length of resistance wire that is uniform in resistance will be the center of the wire. The end result for most coils that are of a reasonable length (e.g. not a 0.3 ohm coil) that are not shorting is that the top and bottom coils are the coolest coils, the middle coil is the coil that lights up first, and the short leads from the wick to center post and from the wick to the negative post get hot, but don't glow. On the other hand, if you have a short between the coil and wick (you can usually see these as hotspots) you are altering the effective length of the coil, causing the coil to be a great deal shorter. This shorter effective length of resistance means that the top leg between the wick and the center post glows. Point here is that PROPER oxidation is a must. Keep in mind that too much oxidation ends up messing with wicking and with flavor.
My particular method is as follows: Cut whatever size mesh you need. I use tube wicks because I find that the flavor is much better than with a solid wick, so my wick sizes are usually in the neighborhood of 1 1/2 inches by 3/4 of an inch. I then torch the wick before rolling. Then I carefully fold a very small width (about 1/16 of an inch) of the long side of the wick over (this will end up being the outside of the wick). Then I roll my wick onto whatever size filling needle I have that fits both wick and mesh in hole without a huge amount of slop. For my AGAs this is a 14 gauge, 2" long filling needle. Other attys may need a narrower needle. The mesh should be rolled as tightly as possible around the needle. Once the mesh is rolled and staying put, I pull the filling needle out and torch the mesh again once. All said and done, I spend about thirty seconds to one minute total torching mesh, including the time spent torching the mesh while it is unrolled. I do not quench the mesh, and I certainly never coat it with juice and light it on fire. Once the mesh is cooled, I put the filling needle back in the mesh, wrap my coil as tightly as possible on the mesh while on the needle, but not in the atty. Then I insert the entire assembly into the atty, keeping tension on the coil to prevent it from unwinding/loosening. Then I hook up my legs, fire up the mod, and to the extent necessary, fiddle with coils until all of the hotspots are gone. I use a combination of poking the coils and pulsing to eliminate hotspots. Usually I don't have to spend more than a couple of minutes fiddling to eliminate all of the hotspots. You'll know that all of the hotspots are eliminated and the coil is working properly when the coil glows brightly at the center, is slightly less bright at the edges, and your top and bottom leads to the terminals aren't glowing. Identifying hotspots is pretty easy particularly at the top of the coil - just look for the brightly glowing piece of mesh. Towards the bottom of the coil it can be a bit more difficult, especially if you use a solid wick that works as a heatsink. Just continue to fiddle with the coils until you have the coil characteristics described above.
FYI, on my Vamo, I currently have a 6/5 wrap of 30 gauge Kanthal a-1 in my AGA-T2+. It's vaping like a champ.
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That’s interesting. I’ve gotten my coils down but am still getting really muted flavor. I’ve only rolled tight wicks – I might try a hollow wick next.
I made a detailed video of the problems with the voltages and bad rubber ring under the center post and sent it to vaporbreak (where i purchased from) they are sending another Vamo and an Vamo v3 for free. Decent customer service although they are based in China so any support has to be after 7pm PST and their chinese to english is kind of tough.
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