Back in the day, the Kanger Protank or Evod, combined with an Ego twist battery, was what I recommended beginning vapers. The ego twist was a perfect beginner bat, because it has the best of both worlds. It is small, slim, and tiny tube shaped, cig shaped but a bit bigger.....and the kanger pro tank and evod are two different types of clearos, both great (at the time) in their own way.
Nowadays, I don't recommend a specific battery/mod anymore. I tell them to go to the vape shop, and get a feel for what they like. I DO however, make sure they get a variable voltage, instead of a mech mod, for their first.
I also recommend the nautilus mini. It doesn't have the massive airflow or low ohms like the atlantis, but it performs extremely well, and is designed for a beginner with no tinkering.
Real clever post...Throwing around children's toy manufacturer names on an Electronic Cigarette forum has got to be a good idea with Google and all. Bravo!!
If I could have one wish, it would be as follows...
That no advice would be given until the following questions have been answered...
1) How long have you smoked?
2) How much are you smoking right now?
3) What brand are you smoking right now?
4) Are you open to the idea that larger devices would be more satisfying?
5) Are you open to the idea that different flavors might help you get away from cigarettes?
If we could just get those questions answered first, such threads could be more productive.
And yes, I know that they may/will change their priorities or even their idea of what they think they need.
But that is all part of getting them started and letting them develop on their own.
I guess it comes down to how productive it is to try and convince them that what they think they need may not be.
After all, that is the only reason such threads often reduce to arguments like we see in this thread.
I think trying to convince someone that they don't want what they think they want is usually not a good idea.
And I think it could very well confuse and frustrate more people than those who are "saved" by being convinced otherwise.
But here's something I've been wondering about, since the prices on 30w mods are rapidly coming down. If a mod is capable of that kind of power, but one only vapes <15w... does the battery last longer? That's one extremely valid reason why I might consider a 30w mod, though I've never yet found a reason or need to go over 13.5w.
Andria
I agree 100% with your last sentence; the "ignore" went into effect some weeks ago. But for the rest... not every vaper who vapes at lower than 15w is "living under a rock" -- some of us just don't need that kind of power for the kind of vape we prefer, and I know it's not just me; there are quite a few lower-watt vapers around here.
But here's something I've been wondering about, since the prices on 30w mods are rapidly coming down. If a mod is capable of that kind of power, but one only vapes <15w... does the battery last longer? That's one extremely valid reason why I might consider a 30w mod, though I've never yet found a reason or need to go over 13.5w.
Andria
Well I think it has more to do with the quality of your battery then it does the capability of the device. And what's nice about some of these 30w mods are that you can use your own battery.
I just calculated some numbers with Steam Engine for you and here's what I came up with.
With my MXJO IMR 18650, 13.5 watts would get you roughly 459 five second puffs with a 1.8 ohm coil while the sought after Sony VTC5 would get you 477.
I also calculated a couple of batteries that would be similar to what's in a 20w iStick and it calculated at 404 puffs at 13.5 watts.
So while the battery life isn't greatly different, it's definitely there and 50 something extra puffs can be pretty critical in the world of nicotine dependency.
And considering that it only takes a twist to remove the battery from lets say an iPV Mini, you can always keep batteries with you if you need to go longer. A NITECORE i2 charger is only $15 on Amazon and can charge two batteries at a time. The i4 is $18 and can charge four. You really never have to worry about charging your device again even though USB charging works as well on single battery APV's
And I know not everyone is living under a rock but there are a lot of people who are who don't come to these sites. Some people don't even understand the benefit of a clearo vs a cigalike. But if people can use a simple clearomizor setup and be perfectly happy, that's great. I was content for a while but my curiosity got the best of me and opened me up to a whole new world. Now I am and always have been highly dependant on nicotine. So even on the occasion that I still use my Nautilus such as places where I might offend, I'm still very much using 24mg of nic. But eLiquid doesn't taste nearly as good with so much nicotine. Through high watts, I've been able to lower my nic to 12mg and sometimes 6mg, still get a great nic fix but with an intense blast of flavor. Considering I live with a smoker who finds the idea of vaping, silly, I really need this and wish I just bought a setup like this from the beginning.
And there is a huge misconception that Sub-Ohm vaping is just for clouds and building coils at .1 ohms. That's certainly not true and I'm vaping between .7 and .8 ohms on average between 30 and 60 watts depending on my mood. My device has a 70w upgrade but so far I have not bothered.
And what I recommend, really depends on the person. But I don't believe every new vapor needs the most simple, low watt devices.
Well I think it has more to do with the quality of your battery then it does the capability of the device.
Do you know the efficiency of something like an iStick? I came up with my battery calculations based on the 92% efficiency of the iPV Mini.Efficiency of the device and device capabilities more often have a LOT more to do with it than the battery.
For example an 1100mah ego twist might last as long as a 2000mah AW in a provari at the same setting... IF the setting WOULD produce more current than the cell inside the ego can output. But the vape will be anemic in comparison.
As long as the voltage range is the same and the capacity is the same, and you're not over working one of the batteries, device efficiency is going to be the deciding factor on how long the cell performs per charge.
Tapatyped
I can only speak for myself, but when I switched from smoking to vaping I wanted something that didn't look, feel, taste, or smell like a cigarette. I needed to get as far away from them as possible.
I think we all agree that we should recommend what the OP wants/thinks might work for him/her.
But there's one more variable, which I always consider when making recommendations to new vapers, and that's tobacco harm reduction. I believe that recommending the smallest and safest tool that will do the job is never a bad idea. We don't know yet what happens when we vape at very high temperatures and inhale huge amounts of vapor into our lungs 24/7. Dr. Farsalinos is looking into it as we speak and I eagerly await the results of this study.
~~~ Big snip ~~~
One can always get a more powerful device or a diacetyl-loaded custard juice if that's what it takes. We have choices.
Sure, but 80 watts done wrong gets you into the danger zone a lot faster and deeper than 8 watts done wrong. Now anyone who's been vaping for a while knows when his juice is getting fried, but someone just starting out probably doesn't.
Do you know the efficiency of something like an iStick? I came up with my battery calculations based on the 92% efficiency of the iPV Mini.
Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition
Katya
Darling
PLEASE
Help me remove the misconception of "very high temperatures".
I like this post very much. But that phrase is something of a thorn in my eye.
I vape @ ~80W.
But at a lower temp than a protank set at 8W.
High watt does not equal more temp.
Think of a high ohm coil vs a sub ohm coil as an oven vs a house. With the oven door closed you can cook food extra crispy with the flame cycling on and off... mostly off. With the door open you Might be able to Warm your house with the flame constantly on.
The size of my coils and air flow puts me at warming a house @ 80 watts. The size of a Carto or protank coil... and the airflow... puts the user at instant cooked...
Tapatyped
I completely agree with your post except the part about high temperatures Katya. As beckdg pointed out in the post after yours, power does not define coil temperature. Yes, it has an influence, but so do a few other variables. A 100 watt vape can have lower coil temperature than a 7 watt vape, or the reverse. I think we all know this is correct but it's still repeated by a lot of people.
Continuing our commitment for unbiased research on e-cigarettes, we are now launching a new campaign for what we consider to be THE MOST IMPORTANT aspect in e-cigarette safety and future development: TEMPERATURE OF EVAPORATION. Although e-cigarettes do not combust any material, heat is necessary to generate the vapor (aerosol) which is subsequently inhaled by the users. This can result in thermal decomposition of some e-cigarette ingredients, releasing potentially toxic chemicals (most commonly aldehydes, such as formaldehyde, acetaldehyde and acrolein). Until now, no study has systematically evaluated temperatures inside the wick, while we have observed several methodological mistakes in assessing aldehydes release (e.g. ingoring that higher wattage is associated with less puff duration in realistic use). Our team has initiated this research, and has already completed preliminary experiments evaluating temperature of evaporation in realistic settings, by introducing a sensor inside the wick, and by having the atomizer fully assembled and used by a vaper.
Have you met victor?
OK, OK... You're right. I think.
But some unknown factors still remain with high wattage/high temperature vaping, no?
Why would Brandon (and Imeo) introduce temperature-limiting DNA chipsets if the problem didn't exist?
And why would Dr. Farsalinos do a high-temperature study?
There's clearly more to it than just dry hits...
OK, OK... You're right. I think.
But some unknown factors still remain with high wattage/high temperature vaping, no?
Why would Brandon (and Imeo) introduce temperature-limiting DNA chipsets if the problem didn't exist?
And why would Dr. Farsalinos do a high-temperature study?
There's clearly more to it than just dry hits...
The purpose of the study is NOT to restrict e-cigarette use and variability of devices, atomizers and power delivery-potential, but to provide valuable information to vapers so that they make informed decisions on how to use their devices. We strongly believe that variability in devices, atomizers and liquids are crucial factors in satisfying every individual need. We believe that new-generation devices are the future in e-cigarette use.
The Impact
THIS IS A HEALTH-RELATED ISSUE.
Temperature evaluation is one of the most important areas of research in e-cigarettes, since it is a major determinant in thermal decomposition of e-liquid ingredients.
This research will evaluate methods of further reducing exposure to thermal decomposition products.
We believe that it is not just the peak temperature that matters but the integral of temperature over time of puff.
It may be preferable to vape at higher wattage with shorter puff duration rather than take prolonged puffs at lower wattage levels.
Have you met victor?
Imagine him with a mech...
Victor and I go way back...
But he's not a professional vaper.
Hey, happy #5, cute lil yellow birdie. Loved your image you posted the other day with the head-flopping birdie.
Andria