Firing issues with Ivogo Dimitri Mod

[Mrez]

Hey folks, got a question about my Ivogo Dimitri Clone. I ordered it for my birthday back in early December. Got some good batteries for it, and didn't have any real issues with it to start with. My higher subohm builds/atties fired no problem (.22-.3 range). I recently did some deeper subohm builds (sub .2 range, but still within CDR of parallel 20 amp cells) and I'm getting a somewhat inconsistent firing. Most of the time it won't fire (Tried with a Twisted Messes rda, Heavens and hells, and Velocity), and when it does fire after clamping down on the batteries or messing around with the pin/button, it doesn't seem to be hitting very hard. Things I've noticed, is the screw on the switch wiggles and shifts a fair amount, and the .2+ range builds definitely hit harder then on a single battery mech. I put the TM and Velocity on a regulated mod, and cranked the wattage to get get around 3.7 volts, and it definitely feels like a harder hit then when it's on the Dimitri (and it actually fires).

Anyone have any thoughts as to what it can be? Why firing a very low ohms fails, when higher ohm fires no issue? Is there anything I can do the pin to tighten it up (as I can see that becoming a serious issue).

 

[93gc40]

Clean the contacts......

 

[Mrez]

Why would dirty contacts prevent a low subohm build from firing, but not a higher subohm build?

 

[duc916]

I don't have one, but watched a video review. That flimsy strap up top that flops around when the firing switch is pressed is the first thing that made me think "yeah, that sucks". My guess would be the problem is there. Too much voltage drop (and heat/resistance) from subpar contacts.

 

[Mrez]

I don't have one, but watched a video review. That flimsy strap up top that flops around when the firing switch is pressed is the first thing that made me think "yeah, that sucks". My guess would be the problem is there. Too much voltage drop (and heat/resistance) from subpar contacts.

I considered that. The strip is not very tight around the pin. I had some success with a washer between the pin and the strip (or the strip and the button), but I got an auto firing feature occuring and couldn't figure out why so I ditched it. I think I read somewhere a second strip could be added, and soldered on, but my hands on mechanical skills are sketchy at best. Another friend suggested some thicker copper wire looped around the contacts..

 

[mhertz]

Sorry, don't know about why low ohms would completely stop firering whereas higher wouldn't...

I looked around a little, and saw a video about tightening things up in the button and that sometimes only one of the batteries would hit, so testing with first one batt and then the other afterwards, and really wiggling the neg screws to make sure propper contact, from soft to really really tight...

Just in case

 

[Mrez]

It happened again when I just went out for a vape. I also cleaned up all contacts last night. I only got it working again when I really clamped down on the negative screws and fiddled with the positive screw. Even then, the vape was kinda weak for .14 build. I think a previous poster is correct, that little copper strip is .... and doesn't maintain a good connection.

 

[Bad Ninja]

It's not the copper bus bar being thin.
It's plenty thick for this application.
I have a Dimitri.
If had to guess:
It's a loose connection either in the contact screws of the switch assembly.
Also check the spring. If it's dark/discolored, replace it.

 

[Mrez]

It's not the copper bus bar being thin.
It's plenty thick for this application.
I have a Dimitri.
If had to guess:
It's a loose connection either in the contact screws of the switch assembly.
Also check the spring. If it's dark/discolored, replace it.

Thanks, Ninja...I had it apart last night and the spring was shiny. The neg screws appear tight, and all the positive side contacts are snug in the delrin and bus bars. The screw in the switch that makes contact with the battery positive terminal is definitely loose and wiggly. Any suggestions on tightening up the fit?

 

[Bad Ninja]

Thanks, Ninja...I had it apart last night and the spring was shiny. The neg screws appear tight, and all the positive side contacts are snug in the delrin and bus bars. The screw in the switch that makes contact with the battery positive terminal is definitely loose and wiggly. Any suggestions on tightening up the fit?

The one that runs through the delrin and touches the battery?

Or the one that screws up into the switch?
( I still have mine for reference, but it's been converted into a single 18650 squonker)

 

[Mrez]

The one that screws up into the switch. I also have to note, sometimes I get a good connection when I really clamp down on the neg screws...but I feel like I'm damaging the pos terminals. I was just messing with it and I inadvertently loosened the nut under the 510 connection. Retightened it a bit and it definitely lowered the 510 pin because my TM Atty sits flush...and it fired up when I tightened down the batteries. The switch screw is still wiggly though

Edit: Took it completely apart again. This time I took out the 510 assembly, took apart, reassembled everything tight as I could get it, sunk it in a bit and did a quick test run. Still nadda. I can't tell if the pin is making good contact with the atty post. It fired up once when I clamped down tight one everything, but then nothing again. The mod came with an extra 510 assembly, so when I'm no longer fed up with the dam thing I will put the extra assembly in and see what happens.

 

[Pasqual13]

Does the dimitri have adjustable 510? If so this may be your issue as the screw isnt making a good connection to the battery when completing the circuit. Other side of it, if its not hitting hard you may have some serious voltage drop. I tried to get a dimitri clone but couldnt find a place that had decent ones in stock so i got the abaddon instead

 

[Mrez]

Gotta be honest, I don't think the 510 is adjustable. There is a scree that screws up into the assembly and what looks to be a pin in the interior threading. I tried moving it with a screw driver and nadda. Considering how long the Atty pins that I'm using are, I doubt thats the problem but could be a contributing factor. I've got some time tonight, so I'll be putting in the other 510 assembly and see if that works. Also thinking about wrapping the switch pin in some tin foil to tighten up the fit. If those fail, I'm done with this device.

 

[mhertz]

I just wanted to add that the 510 copper pin is fixed on ivogo's dimitri, and later versions rumoured to be spring-loaded. Second, about weak "hitting" when compared to regulated 3.7v on your 0.14 build, then I just read a rewiew of your box with a 0.21 build and 25Rs, sagging to 3.6v on that 0.21 build. The reviewer used a multimeter on the pos/neg posts while firering and would also correlate with an inline-meter later and edit if needed, but hasn't, so should be comparable...

Ivogo Dimitri Review | Vaping Cheap

 

[Mrez]

I just wanted to add that the 510 copper pin is fixed on ivogo's dimitri, and later versions rumoured to be spring-loaded. Second, about weak "hitting" when compared to regulated 3.7v on your 0.14 build, then I just read a rewiew of your box with a 0.21 build and 25Rs, sagging to 3.6v on that 0.21 build. The reviewer used a multimeter on the pos/neg posts while firering and would also correlate with an inline-meter later and edit if needed, but hasn't, so should be comparable...

Ivogo Dimitri Review | Vaping Cheap

Clearly this reviewer got a better unit then I did. I can't even get my +.2 ohm atties to fire reliabily on it anymore. That .6 drop is pretty sizeable and not at all consistent with how the box was hitting when I first started using it on the .2 atties. The box was definitely hitting harder then the tubes I have. Now..not so much. I have to be honest, I'm a bit annoyed about this, because I specifically tracked down an ivogo clone, over paid a bit for it, and its still a POS. So I guess my search continues.

Edit. So I took the 510 assembly out, and the pin is definitely fixed. I couldn't any immediately noticeable flaws in it, so I set it aside and put in the spare assembly and tightened everything down as best I could. Those copper screws are really soft, they got chewed up a bit. Cleaned up in the insides a bit and reassembled the switch. Sadly the switch screw is still loose and wobbly. Getting the 510 positioned correctly was kind of a pain, but I screwed down a Heavens Hells atty with a .14 build (the one that wasnt firing before), and loaded batteries in, and low and behold, she fired. Tested a few more atties and everyone fired, with no sputters or die offs. Been taking pulls on an off for the last hour or so and it seems to be holding steady. There is definitely some significant voltage drop somewhere in the box, as it doesn't feel like I'm getting much more then 80-90 watts, but at least it's working for now. Hopefully it will hold out until I find something a bit more reliable.

 

[Mrez]

Oh for fcks sake I just can not win with this mod. It was firing fine for a while, but I noticed the vape getting weaker. I figured it was time for a battery switch, so I took out the two cells and put them in the charger. Unsurprisingly, the first battery was reading at 3.7 volts or so. I put in the second battery, and it's coming in at 4.0 volts. Barely any drain, and of course I didnt pay attention to which battery was in which mod slot. .... I am so close to pulling the trigger on an osmium or nookie at this point.

 

[mhertz]

Yeah, sorry, not a fix but that's why in that video I linked, the user when inserting batts, tested each fired, one at a time in each slot, before using it and stop troubleshooting(for the time being). There are many having good experiences with the ivogo dimitri and also otherwise, and I don't know if it's some malfunctioning devices or just some adjustments that needs done, sorry... Ninja states it's even better manufactured than the original, I seem to recall...

Lastly, in that video, the user stated he had contacted ivogo and they stated clean the neg-screws/threads with a screwdriver if I remember right(strange cleaning tool, lol) I would disassemble everything and soak/clean, tighten and reassemble...

 

[Mrez]

Thanks Hertz, I'm going to do another test fire tonight with a single battery and see if I can figure out which side is working. I'm probably also going to stop by a local shop and see if they have a different parallel box that I've heard some good things about. If not I found some good prices on a Nookie v1 and v2, and osmium v1. Not to mention 88evape has good prices on the clones of those two. Just not sure I really want to deal with a other .... clone.

 

[dry_hit]

I know this isn't helpful but, take the thing outside and kill it with fire.

 

[Mrez]

I know this isn't helpful but, take the thing outside and kill it with fire.

It will be done. My impatience and frustration with this thing has lead me to make a questionable financial decision. I picked up a Mizrah on my way home from work.